tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post2447606133537879515..comments2024-02-15T13:54:07.172+01:00Comments on Eva López, PhD. Evidence-based Athletic Training for Climbing: Redpoint Anxiety: What stresses you out? (II)Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comBlogger1125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-25801930319402014142013-03-28T05:47:42.493+01:002013-03-28T05:47:42.493+01:00Unrelated to this article, but you should look int...Unrelated to this article, but you should look into kaatsu/occlusion training:<br /><br />http://scholar.google.com/scholar?hl=en&q=kaatsu&btnG=&as_sdt=1%2C5&as_sdtp=<br /><br />Apparently, you can cause hypertrophy at submaximal strength levels (20%) but it would be the same as lifting maximally (80-100%). I use this to stregenthen my brachialis/brachioradialis. The idea would be that you can rest your tendons because the weights are so low, but you still cause muscle gain. This could also be applied to the rehabing of fingers.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com