tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post5648226091104984660..comments2024-02-15T13:54:07.172+01:00Comments on Eva López, PhD. Evidence-based Athletic Training for Climbing: Why do intermittent dead hangs?Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-75871036624110416242018-03-19T15:02:15.185+01:002018-03-19T15:02:15.185+01:00Hi Lloyd,
The second part is already available! ...Hi Lloyd, <br /><br />The second part is already available! I hope you like it! ;-) <br /><br />http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.htmlEva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-20907132570774596292018-02-16T10:24:26.564+01:002018-02-16T10:24:26.564+01:00Yes, Lloyd, that makes totally sense. I would reco...Yes, Lloyd, that makes totally sense. I would recommend that combination of methods. Although my suggestion would be you did one cycle of 4-8 weeks of max hangs and then, at least other cycle of 8 weeks, or never less than 6 weeks of Int hangs.<br />I hope you understand this much better when you read the following entry.<br />Thanks for your comment!Eva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-26555709898855559012018-02-16T10:18:30.263+01:002018-02-16T10:18:30.263+01:00I hope that it is available very soon, Lloyd. I...I hope that it is available very soon, Lloyd. I'm sorry for the big delayEva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-52385027776235700052018-01-05T13:35:36.248+01:002018-01-05T13:35:36.248+01:00Hi Eva,
Thank you so much for this informtation, ...Hi Eva,<br /><br />Thank you so much for this informtation, I am going to implement it into my next training phase and I am excited to see how it will be.<br />I am wondering, in general, would it be better to first complete a phase of max strength hang training and then go into this intermittent hang protocol? To develop the max strength and then go into the intermttent hangs to maintain those strngth gains while improving the the endurance of the strength?<br />Just a thought, I might be wrong with regards the physiological responses etc.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />LloydLloydhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04745730715998452377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-50614214260270234362018-01-04T01:00:30.822+01:002018-01-04T01:00:30.822+01:00Hey! This is really interesting, thanks for sharin...Hey! This is really interesting, thanks for sharing. Just wondering, is the secind part of this available yet??<br /><br />Thanks:)Lloydhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04745730715998452377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-10470835106809163772017-08-16T13:09:12.174+02:002017-08-16T13:09:12.174+02:00Lastly, in any case, to examine a particular aspec...Lastly, in any case, to examine a particular aspect in both protocols, like the total number of repetitions or the TUT as you are suggesting, we should match other aspects, especially the intensity. In this line, we could only study the differences between the total volume of the Beginner routine from Anderson brothers against the volume of my study's intermittent dead-hangs. The reason is that it is the one that uses the same work/rest ratio than mine, meaning 10":5". Otherwise, we would be making a big mistake because we would be comparing training volumes of different intensities: Don’t you think that several sets of 7-seconds hang followed by 3 seconds of rest would have a potentially different training effect than 10-second hangs followed by 5 seconds of rest?<br /><br />Again, thank you for helping us to learn a little more! ;-)<br />(my apologies for a long response, I had to break it into two parts)Eva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-47451846674805822232017-08-16T13:07:00.598+02:002017-08-16T13:07:00.598+02:00First of all, I don't intend to compare the ef...First of all, I don't intend to compare the effectiveness or the results of the intermittent program suggested by me to the Anderson brothers' program or any other. I was only comparing both hangboard programs in terms of duration or total volume of repetitions and putting forward a rationale forhigher-volume workouts. That's all. <br /><br />It’s seems to me that perhaps the Anderson's program might be more focused on working a wide range of grips and a long enough workout duration (maybe for replacing a climbing session, developing a good forearm strength base to build upon...). For that reason, it's understandable that they suggest performing several repetitions per grip on different holds (up to 8). The program that I used for my research is more focused on maintaining a medium to high intensity along the complete workout, which was individualized for each participant. To that end (among other things), I chose to work on: a) just one grip per workout, b) with an edge size appropriate for each participant (e.g. it varied from 24 mm to 7 mm for the weakest and strongest climbers, respectively) and c) a volume per set that matched the duration of the more intense power endurance sections of the routes/a contraction over 60-70% of maximum (around 1 minute). The consequence is keeping a short to medium workout duration and therefore, a high enough intensity. Anyway, I would like to reiterate that this program was designed for research purposes, which doesn't mean that it should be used again and again by every level/type of climber or whatever their goals or the timing of their plan is. There are other hangboarding variants, included max hangs and why not, the Andersons brother's or others that should be sequenced or alternated.<br /><br />Anyway, I thank you for reminding us the importance of being rigorous when comparing programs, protocols or different aspects regarding any topic we are interested in investigating. You are totally right that it is necessary to standardize the conditions. Nonetheless, you propose that the right way to do a fair comparison in this case, would be to look at the number of repetitions per set for only one grip type, since I only use one grip: open crimp/half-crimp. However, with due respect, I don't see that this is the right way of doing this (to be valid) and that's why I have only contrasted both programs in terms of total volume: the performed repetitions during the hangboard workout, including all the grips. <br /><br />There would be several reasons that could explain why we can't isolate one parameter/part of one program to compare it to the same parameter of the other, like when you propose looking at the training volume per grip. To begin with, each program was conceived as a whole, to achieve specific training goals. On the other hand, we can't even look at the total number of repetitions using half/open crimp of Anderson's program, because there are several sets (to be fair, between 3-4 of a total of 8 for the Beginner routine) that could be overlapping, since the fingers joint angles could be consistent with those found in an open crimp or half-crimp configuration: sometimes for the entire hand (large edge and medium edge grip), sometimes for specific fingers (MRP 3F pocket, IMR 3F Pocket); not to mention that we don't know yet in what ways the rest of the trained grip types influence/interact with the specific grip we are focusing on ...Eva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-65256023097443931142017-08-11T03:00:30.682+02:002017-08-11T03:00:30.682+02:00I'm confused by your comparison to the Anderso...I'm confused by your comparison to the Anderson Brothers' protocol. In this article, you say,<br /><br />"And this sustained load is why my method does not entail lots of sets and repetitions as other, more extensive ones, like the Beastmaker fingerboard training plan by Ned Feehally or the Anderson Brothers’ RPTC repeater Training Protocol."<br /><br />Are you comparing to the Anderson Brothers' protocol for ONE GRIP (as my understanding of your proposed protocol in this article is only examining results for one grip?) <br /><br />If you only look at one grip, even when you use the Anderson Brothers' advanced program to make the comparison, they suggest 3 sets of 7, 6, and 5 reps, for a total of 18 reps, and 2 minutes, 6 seconds time under tension.<br /><br />At the high end of your proposed intermittent hang protocol, you're using 5 sets of 5 10 second reps, for a total of 25 reps, and 4+ minutes time under tension.<br /><br />So, if we only look at training one grip, I would say your proposal uses as many or more sets/reps than theirs? If you're comparing training one grip to their entire suggested workout, it doesn't seem like an apples to apples comparison.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-26584393174098935052017-08-10T13:32:14.964+02:002017-08-10T13:32:14.964+02:00Thanks, Alex!!
I have just added it.
Kind regards,...Thanks, Alex!!<br />I have just added it.<br />Kind regards,<br />EvaEva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-346206254888400132017-08-10T12:31:55.861+02:002017-08-10T12:31:55.861+02:00You missed one reference:
Iglesias E1, Boullosa DA...You missed one reference:<br />Iglesias E1, Boullosa DA, Dopico X, Carballeira E. Analysis of factors that influence the maximum number of repetitions in two upper-body resistance exercises: curl biceps and bench press. J Strength Cond Res. 2010 Jun;24(6):1566-72.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18112783512869732533noreply@blogger.com