tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post7831943338735683438..comments2024-02-15T13:54:07.172+01:00Comments on Eva López, PhD. Evidence-based Athletic Training for Climbing: Frequently Asked Questions about Progression and Finger Strength Training (III)Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-42369086301977296552012-04-09T16:35:37.453+02:002012-04-09T16:35:37.453+02:00Hi again Magnus,
As you can see here , I have dev...Hi again Magnus,<br /><br />As you can see <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/02/frequently-asked-questions-about_27.html" rel="nofollow">here </a>, I have developed a method for finger endurance training on a fingerboard. I've called it <b>"intermittent dead-hangs"</b>.<br /><br />But when it comes to working <b>climbing endurance, or climbing stamina, the hangboard will hardly be the ideal tool</b>, in contrast with the climbing gym or the rock itself. Real climbing -outdoor and indoor- is key for an activity like the one you mention, together with cardiovascular exercises like running or cycling to improve your aerobic endurance.<br /><br />Regarding the method you mention, the effort and rest intervals that it proposes are coincidentally similar (althoug a bit longer) to those that occur in the normal action of grabbing-releasing during climbing... and so they are similar to the ones I propose. But in my opinion this shouldn't be called Tabata intervals when applied to dead hangs. Why? Because it was conceived originally to work aerobic power, and so it involves performing a more general exercise like running, swimming or cycling that induce a notable raise on one parameter that is used to measure said qualities: oxygen consumption (VO2). This parameter also serves as control for the intensity and VO2max (maximal oxygen consumption) the test itself.<br /><br />The difference here is that <b>we can't use VO2 as a measure to control the work load because, being the target muscles involved so small and the contraction isometric, it hardly goes up at all</b>. In our case, the control parameter and <b>the quality we seek to work is the local strength and power endurance </b>of the forearm muscles.<br /><br />Best regards and good luck!Eva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-64767017219378627842012-04-07T02:18:59.948+02:002012-04-07T02:18:59.948+02:00Great - look forward to it.Great - look forward to it.Randynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-69926101393697935512012-04-06T19:39:50.195+02:002012-04-06T19:39:50.195+02:00Hi Magnus
Interesting question, I will answer in ...Hi Magnus<br /><br />Interesting question, I will answer in a few days, ok? It has been a very busy time lately...Eva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-60979939846355347062012-04-06T19:32:56.881+02:002012-04-06T19:32:56.881+02:00Hi Randy,
Thank you!
I will answer in a few day...Hi Randy, <br /><br />Thank you!<br /><br />I will answer in a few days, ok?Eva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-30691307561856557302012-04-05T22:18:06.742+02:002012-04-05T22:18:06.742+02:00Yes! In a similar fashion, you can work your maxim...Yes! In a similar fashion, you can work your maximum strength on days when you are not climbing in rock, leaving at least 48 hours between strength sessions. Alternatively, if that is not possible, you can do an early maximum strength session, rest for a couple of hours, and then go out climbing the same day.<br /><br />In truth, when you only climb in rock you are mostly working your endurance and power endurance; if you don't devote some days to climb a low volume of short and bouldery routes, with a complete rest between attempts... you will lose maximum strength with time (in 2 weeks).<br /><br />So it would be advisable to insert maximum strength cycles from time to time, or better yet, 2 strength sessions/week and 2-3 days of rock climbing each week.<br /><br />Best regardsEva Lópezhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-51311916352407290882012-03-19T03:53:42.868+01:002012-03-19T03:53:42.868+01:00I have really enjoyed your blog posts - I especial...I have really enjoyed your blog posts - I especially appreciate that you don't tell people only what to do or what not to do, but that you also give reasons which helps us go much farther in understanding our training. In that vein, I'm wondering if you can elaborate on why "perform slowly part of an exercise like pull-ups is against our interest" or "same goes for maintaining a fixed angle of the elbow until exhaustion" might be bad. It seems I've heard of so many climbers see positive benefits from slow negatives and lock-offs in improving pulling strength.<br /><br />Thanks again for your excellent posts!Randynoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-65046071451416047302012-03-16T23:44:43.935+01:002012-03-16T23:44:43.935+01:00Hi Eva,
When asked about mixing bouldering with m...Hi Eva,<br /><br />When asked about mixing bouldering with maximum strength training you indicated it might be OK if bouldering days follow strength training with adequate rest to be recovered for subsequent strength training. What to you think about similarly mixing in sport climbing sessions - maintenance level vs working anerobic endurance, etc.? By doing so can strength gains still be maximized as long as sessions are set up such that recovery is adequate? Thanks!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-76712648907981862602012-03-13T21:16:26.164+01:002012-03-13T21:16:26.164+01:00Hello
Maybe a bit oftopic here, but do you have an...Hello<br />Maybe a bit oftopic here, but do you have any thoughts about training endurance on a hangboard? Have plans to do a 24 pitches route this summer and have been thinking about doing tabata intervals on the board (that is 20" hanging and then 10" rest x 8) <br />MagnusAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com