tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65990386997231744622024-03-16T02:09:41.708+01:00Eva López, PhD. Evidence-based Athletic Training for ClimbingEva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.comBlogger45125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-54266012779563493902021-05-25T15:15:00.009+02:002021-11-22T10:50:06.547+01:00Happy Fingers app. An interactive e-book to learn about Finger training for climbing<p> </p><h2 style="text-align: left;"> DESCRIPTION</h2><p>In the middle of the rush <b>for applying AI (Artificial Intelligence) and Machine Learning to training </b>apps, #Happy Fingers wants you, rather than the machine, to be the one that <b>actually learns something. It wants to make you smarter.</b><br /><br />Happy Fingers has the <b>following goals</b>:<br />• <b>Answering all of your questions</b> related to finger training for climbing;<br />• Carefully <b>guiding you in the process</b> of choosing some training method or grip type;<br />• Describing <b>how to warm up</b>; how to hang or how to perform each program;<br />• Teaching you <b>how to control the training load</b> to ensure the desired effects;<br />• Offering <b>alternatives to keep</b> from stalling;<br />• <b>Preventing injuries</b>, overtraining and excessive fatigue in your forearms;<br />• Describing <b>different training methods and the optimal exercise</b> for each circumstance;<br />• Providing a r<b>ange of training programs</b> for each method, level and athletic goal to choose from.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJuItx99oelE08xE4e3LQzPp77EPPFNsaSYyYqmP4p5ow37r0dH_zneWMkySAAlz3ol8Gu0AqhWw401If0t59XApw4RK47smh9U1FGXZz3TsVHW9g-HVIMUUSldwsRa1X2EEFPyHbe3I/s1920/Screenshot_001.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaJuItx99oelE08xE4e3LQzPp77EPPFNsaSYyYqmP4p5ow37r0dH_zneWMkySAAlz3ol8Gu0AqhWw401If0t59XApw4RK47smh9U1FGXZz3TsVHW9g-HVIMUUSldwsRa1X2EEFPyHbe3I/w225-h400/Screenshot_001.png" width="225" /></a></div><p>I’m Eva López; climbing is my passion and the topic of my <b><a href="https://ruidera.uclm.es/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10578/5402/TESIS%20L%C3%B3pez%20Rivera.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=" target="_blank">doctoral thesis</a> on <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Eva-Lopez-Rivera/research" target="_blank">Finger Endurance and Strength Training in Climbing</a></b>. I developed Happy Fingers with the aim of <b>making you the main character in your growth process</b>, looking at the reasons behind any hitch you find while training, offering strategies to keep your motivation or progressing in the long run. Of course, your personal situation, objectives and needs will always be part of the equation.<br /><br /><b>All of the above is based on the most up to date research </b>and what I’ve learned along my 20+ years of observation, analysis and experimentation. I have adapted all that knowledge to the individual characteristics of every person I’ve trained, including myself, to refine and complete the process. <b>Linking Science & Experience, relating Theory & Practice, Evidence-based Training</b>, all describe this educational resource that will help you get the most out of your workouts and your climbs.<b> </b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-b_mkM92cf0j3c3QAYL_v-Lf0MIYl1orbeXUEcfXdm0i3msV631FQX-0ixeVIcQEvwcWTMlAsy2QhlgtmQtJvZqhNj4DfCfTEzOcqtICQG97i_BW7ytWSwPpNWaC1_rVQmlTGOKiFaIw/s2048/2021-05-25_150847.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1820" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-b_mkM92cf0j3c3QAYL_v-Lf0MIYl1orbeXUEcfXdm0i3msV631FQX-0ixeVIcQEvwcWTMlAsy2QhlgtmQtJvZqhNj4DfCfTEzOcqtICQG97i_BW7ytWSwPpNWaC1_rVQmlTGOKiFaIw/s320/2021-05-25_150847.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>I want to make clear that the Happy Fingers app does not automatically churn out training </b>programs from some initial evaluation. It's best characterized as an interactive ebook full of information and advice, but it will never command you to follow some path without challenging it. Individualization is a staple of training, the Holy Grail. You decide. You’re on the driver’s seat.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf7tWH-WARdcSRWHfVqJnns0mNA4SeTGYWpETQ5uZdo1HirT3Ls3SscTwnZxnO5Pd-kEyJBRvQ5jDUGUWoT341phCvUQX-uL2CHyv1y3OuGBuZPZm5-b6XqMWnfSfqIjYZuDOfYtsqsg/s2048/2021-05-25_151101.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1214" data-original-width="2048" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf7tWH-WARdcSRWHfVqJnns0mNA4SeTGYWpETQ5uZdo1HirT3Ls3SscTwnZxnO5Pd-kEyJBRvQ5jDUGUWoT341phCvUQX-uL2CHyv1y3OuGBuZPZm5-b6XqMWnfSfqIjYZuDOfYtsqsg/w400-h238/2021-05-25_151101.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><b>CONTENTS:</b></h3><p><b>1. BEFORE YOU HANG.</b><br />11. Are dead hangs for me?<br />1.2. Terminology.<br />1.3. What gear do I need<br /><b><br />2. THE BASIC DILEMMAS</b><br />2.1. Strength or Muscular Endurance?<br />2.2. Which Method do I Choose?<br />2.3. Which Grip Type to Use?<br /><br /><b>3. TRAINING METHODS</b><br />3.1. Maximal Head Hangs.<br />3.2. Submaximal Dead Hangs.<br />3.3. Intermittent Dead Hangs.<br /><br /><b>4. THE FINGER MEETS THE EDGE</b><br />4.1.Dead Hangs Technique.<br />4.2.Warming Up.<br />4.3. Control of the Load. Self-regulation.<br /><br /><b>5. PERIODIZATION</b><br />5.1. The Dead Hangs Session.<br />5.2. The Training Week.<br />5.3. Proposed Training Plans.<br />5.4. Improving in the Long-Term.<br />5.5. Monitoring and Directing your Training.<br /><br /><b>6. THE ROAD TO PERSEVERANCE</b><br />6.1. Staying Motivated.<br />6.2. Reducing the Risk of Injury.<br /><br /><b>Future updates </b>will bring even more contents, mainly in Methods, Programs and Physiological Adaptations.<br /><br />Strong Fingers are Happy Fingers<br />Fingers with an Evidence-Based Approach are Happy Fingers<br />Well-coached fingers are Happy Fingers </p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"> Download on the <a href="https://apps.apple.com/es/app/happy-fingers/id1573485450#?platform=iphone" target="_blank">App Store here</a>. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Get it on <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.evalopez.happyfingers" target="_blank">Google Play here.</a></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz-2JS9UrVLZ6WcQ8ILBg-ZAF9-QFh5xssnoJ3anDBTgP3Ozg-sSX0J_754qg2LL1dRorY7_xWSCIVzV72F_A' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><h2 style="text-align: left;"> </h2><h2 style="text-align: left;">FAQ about Happy fingers.<br /></h2><p><b>1. THIS APP IS DESCRIBED AS AN INTERACTIVE E-BOOK, but, Why not to release a tangible book, what makes it different?</b><br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Knowledge is always in your pocket. Any question that could arise during training may be solved right away.</li><li>You can enjoy new updates without paying an additional price for them. In the case of a book, you neeed to purchase the new edition.</li><li>You can navigate among all the sections. Each section and screen includes several links to different parts where possible new questions can be answered. The structure and system of navigation is based on how we learn.<br /></li></ul><p><b>2. THE PRICE, IS MONTHLY, yearly, or do you pay just once for it?</b><br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>This app doesn't have a subscription model. You pay for it and it'll be yours forever. Including future updates with new contents.</li></ul><p><br />3. <b>¿ARE YOUR BOARDS, PROGRESSION OR TRANSGRESSION, NECESSARY, for training with the methods proposed by #Happyfingers?</b><br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>No, they aren't necessary. Happy Fingers provides you information about how to train, offering much more knowledge than just methods and training programs, but in any case, you'll always choose which method and program to use according to several things. One of them is your goals, but another one is the board you've already own. In this sense, Happy Fingers also includes a section about what characteristics should your board have and makes some recommendations. <br /></li><li>Obviously, if you would like to train with the Minimal edge method, and your board only includes hold sizes too big or too small for you, it will be hard to make it work. But you can always figure out some solution, or opt for other methods. Besides, happy fingers also suggests you how to make your own board or what other exercises you might use apart from dead-hangs.<br /></li></ul><p><br /><b>4. IS THERE AN IOS VERSION YET?</b><br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Yes, it is finally here!! Download on the <a href="https://apps.apple.com/es/app/happy-fingers/id1573485450#?platform=iphone" target="_blank">App Store here</a>. </li><li>Get it on <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.evalopez.happyfingers" target="_blank">Google Play here.</a></li></ul><p></p>Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-71757087551824008282021-02-21T14:57:00.005+01:002021-02-22T12:10:40.162+01:00Review of the Climbro Smart Hangboard<p> </p><p><a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2021/02/resena-de-la-tabla-inteligente-climbro.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a><br /></p><p><span title="Edited">It's more than one year now that I received the Climbro smart hangboard for its review. So fortunate that the climbing researchers Michael
Michailov, Jiri Balas and their team contacted me with that intention!</span></p><p><span title="Edited"><br />Just in case you don't keep up with it, this is a smart
board with integrated force sensors under its edges for both purposes:
Performance Evaluation and Training.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FFU0UPWE-ABGD4Chzn7AO2j2bAWyFWMUte3xhYAVdNRZl1V5cGiNQhAHAa-1N3W_npILRgW0-JRUNRAx2S2FuUByXCmQLqCDjLl2t6xMwgJLDIxG8YszAdULjSBAWTXQGoP4fWqluZ8/s643/board_only.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="559" data-original-width="643" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-FFU0UPWE-ABGD4Chzn7AO2j2bAWyFWMUte3xhYAVdNRZl1V5cGiNQhAHAa-1N3W_npILRgW0-JRUNRAx2S2FuUByXCmQLqCDjLl2t6xMwgJLDIxG8YszAdULjSBAWTXQGoP4fWqluZ8/w400-h348/board_only.png" width="400" /></a></p><span title="Edited">Thanks to a mobile
application, you are provided with personal training plans prior
assessments of your finger strength and endurance.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtyYugRkOctJ04yI8-o0Ji4JW9qdzmHqsTXSdsvSo3vtwh172F6RYJM_0xOMbXCnTA_Ag0gchVuUAS6RoETzJnr0-0MzlnZj1dmLLLD09H0lnHSQE2LX1zEd7tcRc0-WRIMxAmwoZhqs/s816/Climbro_app.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="816" data-original-width="636" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWtyYugRkOctJ04yI8-o0Ji4JW9qdzmHqsTXSdsvSo3vtwh172F6RYJM_0xOMbXCnTA_Ag0gchVuUAS6RoETzJnr0-0MzlnZj1dmLLLD09H0lnHSQE2LX1zEd7tcRc0-WRIMxAmwoZhqs/s320/Climbro_app.jpg" /></a></div><br /><span title="Edited">Therefore, I have
been trying it and training on it for 8 months now and this is my *review:</span><p></p><p><span title="Edited"><b>1. The team behind it includes 2 well-respected</b> climbing scientists Michail Michailov and Jiří Baláš.<br /><br /><b>2. After an initial test battery and the subsequent diagnosis</b>, you can either let the app suggest you some training plans or choose single workouts each day to improve some particular ability. My favorites: "Low Endurance" & "Maximal Strength".<br /></span><span title="Edited"><span title="Edited"></span></span></p><p><span title="Edited"><span title="Edited"></span></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHZX_KNzQX7pUgK-Dp753XXrTbIUCD2QTl92ZVXDIpGjxILR8Eg_aRjG5xIvaima3WAMF-My9jg3knoCjiPskJCy0WeTDIWdSty_m0z07tdAsZqSDfyjTZtRVvYkxNOiW1ga2m0bw79c/s556/number-9_cr.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="556" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIHZX_KNzQX7pUgK-Dp753XXrTbIUCD2QTl92ZVXDIpGjxILR8Eg_aRjG5xIvaima3WAMF-My9jg3knoCjiPskJCy0WeTDIWdSty_m0z07tdAsZqSDfyjTZtRVvYkxNOiW1ga2m0bw79c/w320-h301/number-9_cr.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span title="Edited"><span title="Edited"></span></span></p><p><span title="Edited"><span title="Edited"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6Rq4IvqtmVnoZ5AGRj807UF97AdEHXjiJisbCmPPeD9kd_ulsGymSDIvz4trLJQQMxUFlAFWIMz4oAmyulOsEw_EcNtl9YThyb6aNchXo5VGqf45GU0iLwoq-2qFjfrGpqtPwC1hb-Y/s1079/performance_battery.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="539" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA6Rq4IvqtmVnoZ5AGRj807UF97AdEHXjiJisbCmPPeD9kd_ulsGymSDIvz4trLJQQMxUFlAFWIMz4oAmyulOsEw_EcNtl9YThyb6aNchXo5VGqf45GU0iLwoq-2qFjfrGpqtPwC1hb-Y/w160-h320/performance_battery.png" width="160" /></a></span> <br /></span></p><p></p><p><span title="Edited"><b>3. Checking the force applied in real time</b> in the mobile app can potencially help to control your training (👉it doesn’t replace your coach!). <br /></span><span title="Edited"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGi7EKTAeD4UN9E51XFpxXW7AiUpp31wLmghwbvsyJu8rHy2Uu8Izd0fCwBde06cSLKvBGbzSpIsJZ7JhEBzuD6mL1j7s5IijbR7gKKumrVCJdhajr-P9I9iWwoScxEu9M7UMo1_9dWlU/s457/climbro+and+app%252C+screenshot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="410" data-original-width="457" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGi7EKTAeD4UN9E51XFpxXW7AiUpp31wLmghwbvsyJu8rHy2Uu8Izd0fCwBde06cSLKvBGbzSpIsJZ7JhEBzuD6mL1j7s5IijbR7gKKumrVCJdhajr-P9I9iWwoScxEu9M7UMo1_9dWlU/s320/climbro+and+app%252C+screenshot.jpg" width="320" /></a> </span></p><p><span title="Edited"><span title="Edited">Other useful applications:</span></span></p><p><span title="Edited"><span title="Edited"> </span></span>•Monitoring strength gains from baseline and fatigue: understanding ensuing biomechanical changes in fingers, elbows...;<br />• Assessing asymmetries (fingers, upper-body limb);<br />• Optimizing your grip technique;<br />• Quantifying recovery and reconditioning after injury:<br /><span title="Edited"><br /><b>4. Currently, both the proposed workouts and training plans are pretty closed</b>. By now, you can just adjust intensity ± 10%. Aspects like this are the most open to criticism, and I (and others) have pestered the authors enough that they’re planning features enabling individualization of each protocol!<br /><br /><b>5. Force sensors are THE tool for one-arm standing pulls,</b> but beginners will need some time to adapt and learn the technique. It’s worthwhile, though.</span></p><p><span title="Edited"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQ4zy7qNwefxFTrQE0hGjGVbCYBu-Wj66h8y6edBGAF-kgd0ulZkiItqELzHKENJ7YBa7nO5k9WUiUG-VEIhLHqGNrM28q-FozeTTrz9Pt1uxDAY0VwswhsfeaGUowMuYph_QXhTS8zY/s2048/20200607_182121-_climbro+eva.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1467" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQ4zy7qNwefxFTrQE0hGjGVbCYBu-Wj66h8y6edBGAF-kgd0ulZkiItqELzHKENJ7YBa7nO5k9WUiUG-VEIhLHqGNrM28q-FozeTTrz9Pt1uxDAY0VwswhsfeaGUowMuYph_QXhTS8zY/s320/20200607_182121-_climbro+eva.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><p><span title="Edited"><b>6.</b> <b>I love the “Free testing” feature: </b>You design and perform a test, then you can export the results in Excel format for later analysis.</span></p><p><span title="Edited"><b> 7. The 8 skin-friendly</b>, large radius edges are a nice open grip training platform, but also make the smaller edges (20 mm, 13 mm) harder.</span><br /><span title="Edited"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1TiPNsAwqd_4QubNPzHXybiV-bcHVb_5h1GGEMZWzmpGqkLtcNKNRLNU-r2MR10UlSSqrKRpuNgRnxs8-wZAdWB7-zUQU-PmGTLZ5FXtGiTKUtzqoI38eFCHfLpGPnWsMjT9RLEXk6M/s470/climbro+9+holds.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="380" data-original-width="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1TiPNsAwqd_4QubNPzHXybiV-bcHVb_5h1GGEMZWzmpGqkLtcNKNRLNU-r2MR10UlSSqrKRpuNgRnxs8-wZAdWB7-zUQU-PmGTLZ5FXtGiTKUtzqoI38eFCHfLpGPnWsMjT9RLEXk6M/s320/climbro+9+holds.png" width="320" /></a><br /><b>8. Measurement is solved: </b>using multiple force gauges means forgetting about torque and friction. This has caused headaches to so many who, after spending lots of money & time manufacturing a homemade device (one gauge force+ one edge), realize that it hardly complies with the validity and reliability requirements.</span><br /></p><p><span title="Edited"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpKMFVQJyrZd5LzR-2l_5MMhBtp5QQfNNJ-PRZ24sgIVSn3mPi9UFfOhkI79uyzCtz0vnEAgta1wfOqfOT-Mq_dcNQq-0pVVfFZZnTOkRlIFboO9-8-NX3iKnXVFcEQsNTn3_t66v8Wg/s913/climbro+sensors%252C+screenshot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="913" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpKMFVQJyrZd5LzR-2l_5MMhBtp5QQfNNJ-PRZ24sgIVSn3mPi9UFfOhkI79uyzCtz0vnEAgta1wfOqfOT-Mq_dcNQq-0pVVfFZZnTOkRlIFboO9-8-NX3iKnXVFcEQsNTn3_t66v8Wg/s320/climbro+sensors%252C+screenshot.jpg" width="320" /></a>.<br /> </span></p><p><span title="Edited"><b>More info <a href="https://climbro.com/?wpam_id=7" target="_blank">here.</a> Use the code EVALOPEZ for a 10% discount. You can <a href="https://climbro.com/product/climbro-smart-hangboard/?wpam_id=7" target="_blank">order it here.</a></b><a href="https://climbro.com/product/climbro-smart-hangboard/?wpam_id=7" target="_blank"><br /></a><br />*<i>My review intends to be honest & unbiased, but you should know that: </i></span></p><i>a) initially I received Climbro for free in exchange for my suggestions,<br />b) then I started collaborating,<br />c) now I get a %profit when someone use my EVALOPEZ code.</i> <br />Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-18811517830417249122018-07-05T09:52:00.001+02:002019-08-14T12:53:26.193+02:00Fingerboard Training Guide (III). Program design and Periodization of MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs. Samples of MaxHangs training programs<br />
<br />
Versión en <a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/06/guia-de-entrenamiento-de-suspensiones-III-planificacion-y-planes-SubMax.html" target="_blank">español</a><br />
<br />
Previous entries:<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>I. Dead-hangs training guide. Preliminary evaluation.</b></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The first blog entry in this series. If you need a refresher, <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-i-preliminary-evaluation.html" target="_blank">here it is</a>.</div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>II. Methodology </b></span><br />
The methods, naming conventions and load management were the topic of the second post. <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-II-Maxhangs-SubHangs-and-Inthangs-methodology.html" target="_blank">You can find it here</a>.<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>*Note:</b> Most of the times in my entries I have been talking about MED or minimal edge and progressing in smaller edges, but I have to clarify that we would be referring to edges when talking about half-crimp (and also open hand) training. But in reality we could use these same proposal methods to work on every grip type we are interested to enhance: Open hand, sloper strength and pinch strength. Depending on which training goal we chose, we would be talking about edge size or more generally, difficulty of the hold. For instance, if we want to enhance our open hand grip strength, we should choose edges, but these should be more rounded edges, or with softer edges, compared to half-crimp. If we want to work on sloper strength, we would use balls or slopers of different difficulty (slope and diameter) for adjusting the intensity. Lately, for working on our pinch strength, we could use a non-hanging device such as pinch blocks of different width or depth. Only for certain climbers profile could be recommended certain types of hanging or bodyweight exercises (<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2013/02/training-pinch-strength-for-climbing.html" target="_blank">see this entry</a>) like dead-hangs or others. (paragraph added on 12 December, 2018)</div>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>III. Periodization</b></span><br />
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Today’s content. What most people are waiting for, right? I’m sure you are eager to get to the meat of it and have your questions answered:</div>
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<br /></div>
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>how many days per week do I work my dead-hangs?<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>is it better at the start, the middle or the end of the session?<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>what method do I use, with[out] added weight, intermittent?<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>do I start with longer or shorter hang times?<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>how many sets?<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>if my objectives include strength and endurance, do I start with strength or do I train both simultaneously?<br />
<br />
Let’s tackle one bit at a time.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.1 Training Frequency</b></span><br />
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<b>For improving: </b>2 days/week, 48-72 h recovery between sessions.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Maintenance</b>: once you get to a reasonable level, 1 day/week can be enough to keep your gains.</div>
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<br /></div>
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In case you train up to 5-6 days per week, or if you don’t climb on the weekends you can do 3 hangs sessions per week, but the 48-72 h rest between sessions is still compulsory.</div>
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<b>During impact microcycles or extended periods using high loads,</b> leave 72 h between sessions to facilitate recovery. The same can be beneficial in these cases:</div>
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<br /></div>
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- When you are<b> under high stress</b>, or if your daily job is very physical.</div>
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- If you <b>notice that you can’t reach the same absolute load</b> (hold depth/difficulty or weight) from one session to the next without apparent reason; also if your focus is on high-quality training, prioritizing either the dead-hangs or the rest of the session contents.</div>
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- In case your <b>recovery ability is compromised</b> for any reason, or you notice that your performance regularly suffers in the second session of the week.</div>
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Anyway, you need to review the way you train/climb the rest of the days, if your diet and sleep habits are right (Chennaoui et al., 2015; Fullagar et al., 2015; Halson 2014). Everything counts, so you should control the factors that influence you fatigue, cognitive performance, motivation and, critically, those that can end in overuse syndromes or overtraining.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.2. Order in the session and in the microcycle</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.2.1. Where to place it in the session</b></span></div>
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A maximal dead-hangs workout (MaxHangs, <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-II-Maxhangs-SubHangs-and-Inthangs-methodology.html" target="_blank">see the glossary here</a>) should always be the first content of the session. Intermittent dead-hangs (<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank">IntHangs</a>) and SubHangs also work better at the start of the session, unless the main content for the day is boulder, in which case the hangs will be after it, and before other climbing-based [power-]endurance methods if there are any.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.2.2. Order in the microcycle or week</b></span><br />
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<b>If you train 4 days per week:</b> place <i>MaxHangs </i>on strength/boulder days. However, if you are a boulderer, I would recommend you to dedicate training days only to fingerboarding together with any other strength & conditioning content that didn't involve fingers and others days to climbing-based workouts. For <i>IntHangs</i> choose power-endurance/endurance days. This is valid for linear, nonlinear or undulating periodizations (see next section).</div>
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<b>If you train 2 days per week:</b> follow the rule set in 3.2.1.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.3 The Training Plan: How to periodize or progress from week to week</b></span><br />
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<b>You are already familiar with the principle of progression</b>, one of the three principles every training plan must honor (with specificity and personalization); the idea is to apply increasing, strong (but not excessive) stimuli, spaced enough for recovery, aiming to gain performance while avoiding injury or overtraining (more correctly, non-functional overreaching).</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Our strategy will consist on manipulating volume, intensity and/or rest between repetitions or sets, which is another way of saying ‘periodizing’</b>. The variable we will be tuning depends on our goals:</div>
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<br /></div>
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•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Maximal grip strength</b>, through neural aspects, or structural developments (hypertrophy, capillarization, etc.). For more on these adaptations look <a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank">at this entry</a>.</div>
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•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Grip strength-endurance</b>, when the objective is to extend the time to fatigue on progressively more difficult holds, or recovering quickly between successive high-intensity grips.</div>
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<br /></div>
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In short, we are looking at different schemes for MaxHangs, IntHangs or SubHangs.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.3.1. Progressively changing the number of sets: The basic method for planning MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs training</b></span><br />
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<b>This is a staple of periodization, and I propose you use it when starting with ANY of the methods</b>, up to the point where playing with this parameter does not yield further gains. It’s simple:</div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>Choose a method, and change the number of sets along 4 to 8 weeks: add some sets during weeks 1-4, then rest for 1-2 weeks and do another 4-week cycle increasing the number of sets.</b> The body needs time to undergo the necessary physiological adaptations, and we need to keep the other parameters fixed while they take place. This way the physiological stimulus does not change and we get the desired effect. According to your training experience and level I suggest the following:</blockquote>
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<b>LOWER LEVEL AND BEGINNERS</b><br />
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Whenever we use a new method, for any level, it is advisable to start with 2 sets to learn the method and/or exercise correctly, controlling the load in a facilitated manner. This approach is also recommended when restarting training after holidays, rest periods or some injuries. Some patterns and their explanation:</div>
<i><br /></i>
<i>a) 2-3-4-4 in a 4-week cycle, which means:</i><br />
Week 1: 2 sets; Week 2: 3 sets; Week 3: 4 sets; Week 4: 4 sets<br />
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<i>b) 2-3-4-4 :1-2; 3-3-4-4 for two 4-week cycles:</i><br />
Week 1: 2 sets; Week 2: 3 sets; Week 3: 4 sets; Week 4: 4 sets<br />
Week 5 or Weeks 5 & 6: don’t do dead-hangs<br />
Week 7: 3 sets; Week 8: 3 sets; Week 9: 4 sets; Week 10: 4 sets<br />
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<b>INTERMEDIATE LEVEL, FAMILIAR WITH DEAD-HANGS</b><br />
3-4-4-5 : 1; 3-4-5-5<br />
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<b>HIGH LEVEL AND SEVERAL YEARS OF HANGBOARDING EXPERIENCE</b><br />
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We can reach up to 8 sets of <i>MaxHangs</i> during a 6-week cycle if we rest for about 2 weeks after.</div>
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In the case of <i>IntHangs </i>and <i>SubHangs </i>it’s possible to link up to 8 weeks (3-4-5-5-3-4-5-5) followed by a compulsory rest from dead-hangs 2-3 weeks long.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.3.2. Follow-up systems to keep progressing</b></span><br />
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We designed our 4-8 week plan and successfully completed it, what are our alternatives at this point? There are several:</div>
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<b>a) Repeat the same initial plan</b> because you consider it still has potential to yield positive results.</div>
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<b>b) Implement a qualitative change</b>:</div>
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- Using a different method; or</div>
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- Keeping the method and changing other parameter: volume, intensity or rest duration. Examples:</div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>In the IntHangs methods</i> it is common, every 4-8 weeks, to alter the pause between repetitions, then the pause between sets and later the number of repetitions per set; in the long term we can change the hanging duration for each repetition. The decision must take into account if we want to promote intensity (using smaller/more challenging holds -in case you are training sloper strength or heavier weights), adjusting volume and pauses in order to sustain the high load along the workout, seeking hypertrophy and high-intensity endurance; or instead we might focus on volume, which leads to metabolic changes, oxidative capacity and substrate buildup associated to endurance.</div>
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<i>In SubHangs we have two options:</i> we can a) keep the pause between repetitions and the intensity (edge or *hold size/difficulty or added weight) and extend the hanging duration for each set in 4-week cycles, or b) use a fixed hanging time and hold/weight while shortening week by week the rest between sets along said 4 weeks.</div>
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<i>Finally MaxHangs</i>, where varying the intensity is the way to go; as the intensity goes up the hanging time or the margin to failure go down, also in 4-8 week periods.<br />
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<b>*Note:</b> Most of the times in my entries I have talked about size edge or smaller edges when talking about half-crimp training, but in reality we can and we should use these methods to work on every grip type: open hand, sloper strength and pinch strength. For such training goals we should use more rounded edges, with softer edges, compared to half-crimp for open hand training; balls or slopers of different difficulty (slope and diameter) and pinch blocks of different width or depth for the pinch grip workouts (using dead-hangs for improving strength for this latter grip type wouldn't be recommendable except for certain climbers profile).<br />
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Let’s have a closer look at each strategy.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.3.2.1. Progressing in training intensity</b></span><br />
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In maximal strength methods this is crucial when the aim is neural development; in <i>MaxHangs </i>this is achieved with smaller or more difficult holds or heavier added weight (which correspond to shorter hanging time) and/or reduced margin before fatigue or muscle failure.</div>
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When we are working our endurance with the <i>IntHangs</i> and <i>SubHangs </i>methods we have two possibilities:</div>
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a) extend the time to fatigue for a fixed absolute intensity (edge depth or added weight). In other words, try to make this absolute intensity into a lighter relative load (a lower percentage of our maximal strength).</div>
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b) maintain the relative intensity with moderately long hanging times; to achieve this we need to choose smaller edges/more difficult holds or add more weight as our endurance improves. This way the relative intensity is stable while the absolute intensity goes up.</div>
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Time for zooming further in, starting with the margin.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">3.3.2.1.1. When is it advisable to modify the margin before failure?</span></b><br />
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For the MaxHangs method I suggest altering this value if you started with 5+ seconds of margin, and have used it for at least 4-8 weeks. The rest of parameters stay the same while the margin would go from 5 to 3 seconds. The following example shows how this translates into a change in intensity:</div>
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•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>If you did MED hangs x 15”(5) :3’ </b>for 4-8 weeks (2-3-4-4, 3-4-4-5, etc.) then switch to:<br />
<div>
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>MED hangs x 15”(3) :3’;</b> the holds used in the previous cycle allowed to hang for 20” (even though the hanging time was ‘just’ 15”), but we now must choose a smaller edge/more difficult hold because the potential hanging time is 18”: the absolute intensity is higher, right?<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Those among you familiar with 3-second margins</b>, which places you in the intermediate level group, can experiment with 2 and 1-second margins in some cycle. But don’t lose sight of the fact that longer hanging times and mid or mid-high intensities (from 10 seconds onward) combined with margins shorter than 3” put you really close to muscle failure and are comparatively more exhausting. The same three-second margin is harder in a 12-second dead-hang than in a 6-second one. In the former case you’ll probably have to change to a deeper hold or remove some weight as the session progresses. <b>When the margin is too short the expected neural effects can be compromised while metabolic and structural changes are favored,</b> in the form of hypertrophy or enhanced substrate repletion, even if we respect the recovery periods between sessions and mix them correctly with the rest of contents.</div>
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<b>No margin or failure:</b><br />
<br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b style="text-align: justify;">Failure or near failure is desirable at the end of a IntHangs or SubHangs</b><span style="text-align: justify;"> session when the pause between sets is less than 2 minutes. When the pause is longer, up to 3 minutes, we want to reach failure in the last repetition of each set (IntHangs) or at the end of each set (SubHangs).</span><br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b style="text-align: justify;">In the case of MaxHangs, as we already mentioned, reaching failure is discouraged in principle</b><span style="text-align: justify;">. Nonetheless, if you haven’t had any previous bad experiences in this regard, </span><b style="text-align: justify;">you can experiment </b><span style="text-align: justify;">with maximal strength and failure; </span><b style="text-align: justify;">occasionally</b><span style="text-align: justify;">, for one repetition, session or even a cycle, you can test your limits or provoke some impact in your training. </span><b style="text-align: justify;">Sufficient recovery for that kind of effort must be enforced.</b><span style="text-align: justify;"> If you are interested in fatigue control I recommend you read the recent article by Morán-Navarro et al. (2017).</span><br />
<span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">3.3.2.1.2. When should I employ the hanging time for intensity management?</span><br />
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Being consistent with my philosophy of “using the lighter stimulus that still causes adaptation” and “tune one variable at a time”, when the goal is to promote maximum strength via neural improvement it would seem logical to increase the intensity (which implies shortening the hanging time), but only if we have already played with the margin to failure according to the guidelines exposed above. <b>This said, there are special cases where we can skip the margin modification altogether and directly alter the dead-hang duration:</b></div>
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<b>a) When we need to keep a margin of 5-10 seconds</b>, like we would do with young athletes and during the early recovery from an injury. One example:</div>
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- We have finished a couple of weeks of MED Hangs x 15” (3) :3’. This is the now familiar 4-8 week planning; we could then switch to:</div>
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- MED hangs x 12” (3) :3’ for another 4-8 weeks, and later even progress to:</div>
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- MED hangs x 10” (3) :3’</div>
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<b>b) In the case of SubHangs we aim to</b> extend the hang duration (lowering the relative intensity to maintain certain absolute intensity); this means sticking to an edge depth/hold difficulty for MED or to an added weight for MAW, like:</div>
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Weeks 1 to 4: 3-4-5-6 set x MED SubHangs x 20” ;2’</div>
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Weeks 5 to 8: 3-4-5-6 set x MED SubHangs x 30” ;2’</div>
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<b>c) When designing a IntHangs plan</b> we have just learned that it’s preferable to start by changing other parameters in each 4-8 week cycle: shortening pauses, then adding more repetitions/set and later focusing on high-intensity by shortening the hanging time like this:</div>
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Weeks 1 to 4: 3-4-5-5 sets x 4 reps x MED IntHangs x 10” :5”/1’</div>
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Weeks 1 to 4: 3-4-5-5 sets x 5 reps x MED IntHangs x 10” :5”/1’</div>
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Weeks 9-10 rest</div>
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Weeks 11 to 14: 3-4-5-5 sets x 4 reps x MED IntHangs x 7” :5”/1’</div>
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Weeks 15 to 18: 3-4-5-5 sets x 5 reps x MED IntHangs x 7” :5”/1’</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">3.3.3. Progression by modification of the break between sets or repetitions</span></b><br />
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You’ll be right to think that this strategy <b>makes sense in the context of IntHangs, SubHangs</b> or other strength-endurance methods (maximal strength needs complete or near complete pauses by definition). But we should not forget that even in endurance methods the rest periods must make it possible to sustain the average intensity that we want throughout the workout.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">3.3.3.1. Changing the rest period length in IntHangs and SubHangs</span><br />
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•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b style="text-align: justify;">IntHangs: </b><span style="text-align: justify;">we can, as an example, start with a 4-week cycle where the pause between repetitions is 30”. The next 4 weeks we cut it to 20”, and later we would do another cycle with 10-second pauses between repetitions. The future progression we could start making the recovery between sets shorter, going from 2 minutes to 90” to 1’.</span><br />
<span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b style="text-align: justify;">In SubHangs</b><span style="text-align: justify;"> we started extending hang times; now, perhaps a season or a year later, the edge depth/hold difficulty or weight will still be fixed and our goal will switch to briefer recovery times. Example: in the initial 4-week cycles the pause was 2’ and the hanging times 20”, 30” and 45”. Now we are in a new phase and the hang durations can go from 20” to 30” but, additionally, the time between sets will be 90”, 1’ and, in the last 4-week cycle, 30”.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">3.3.2.2.2 MaxHangs and recovery</span><br />
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In this method we have already stated that making the rest interval length shorter is not terribly useful; the opposite is true, though, and we can rest for more than 3 minutes in the following situations:</div>
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a) When we realize that, whatever the cause, we don’t feel recovered in 3 minutes.</div>
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b) When both the absolute and relative loads are high, especially if the hang time is 8 seconds or less.</div>
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c) When we feel extra strong and during high-intensity/competition microcycles.</div>
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<b>If the categories above don’t apply, the standard pause between sets is 3’</b>; in case you are learning a new exercise, device or method and, thus, are using loads much lighter than the ‘real’ training ones, a 2 minutes rest would be acceptable, you have a choice there.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">3.4. Designing a Training Plan: choosing a periodization model and sequencing methods</span></b><br />
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<b>When deciding which method to choose</b> for each case you first need to be familiar with the effects of the tools available. <a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" target="_blank">there is information about a study that compared the effects on grip strength of different hangboard programs</a>, and in this one, <a href="http://www.johk.pl/files/1078-2018-66-0010.pdf" target="_blank">the influence on grip endurance</a>. To learn more about intermittent dead-hangs<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank"> you can visit this blog post</a> and this last one shows <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2012/09/published-research-article-and-summary.html" target="_blank">why it is better to start with a method were no added weight is used (MED hangs)</a> if you are new to hangboarding, and when you could start with added weight (MAW hangs).</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>In general, if we seek long-term gains</b>, the way to obtain greater and more sustainable improvements is to periodically change the stimulus by tuning one variable or other. This is what periodization means. We are going to achieve this via a wide range of intensities and hang durations and/or alternating or sequencing methods.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.4.1. The most usual periodization model: Linear</b></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>In the short- and mid-term, most of our periodization proposals can be considered as linear</b>. We are using this scheme when <b>every four to eight weeks of MaxHangs we shorten one or two seconds the duration of each set</b>, increasing both the absolute and the relative intensity. The same goes for IntHangs when we tune the recovery times while keeping the same total effort duration (sets x reps x repetition duration).</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Reverse periodization</b> is another example of the linear pattern, like we do in SubHangs: the absolute intensity (edge size or hold difficulty/weight) is fixed and the<b> hang time goes up every 4-8 weeks</b>.</div>
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This kind of periodization is more suited for those who plan to achieve an optimal performance at an specific date or period and is also the most used in sport periodization.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>When we zoom out and start looking at the long-term I propose we use a nonlinear pattern</b>, though. There are a variety of schemes and terms, but we can point to two of the best known ones: <b>Undulating (daily or weekly) and Block periodization</b>. In a nutshell, they consist of frequent oscillations in intensity, with a periodicity that can go from monthly to daily.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>My suggestion is choosing</b> a linear pattern the first year we start a method and then switching to a nonlinear one. Let’s see how this works.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">3.4.2. Nonlinear models: Undulating and Block Periodization</span></b><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The <b>novelty and variety these schemes offer make them suitable for:</b><br />
<span style="text-align: start;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: start;">•</span><span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Athletes with extended experience</b> with linear periodization that do not progress anymore.<br />
<span style="text-align: start;">•</span><span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Stretches of time when the goal is to maintain</b> the previously acquired level, or when the goal is not reaching peak performance at a specific point in time but to perform at an average level for some time (this is habitual in team sports).<br />
<span style="text-align: start;">•</span><span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>It also makes sense <b>when we value a more relaxed approach</b> to training that prioritizes richness and variety of inputs.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
A few examples:</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>a) Daily undulating periodization:</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Mondays: MaxHangs; Wednesdays: IntHangs; Fridays: SubHangs.</div>
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<b>b) Weekly undulating periodization:</b></div>
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Week 1: MaxHangs; Week 2: IntHangs; Week 3: SubHangs.</div>
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<b>c) Undulating periodization oscillating the load every two weeks:</b></div>
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<i>For intermediate level climbers:</i> Weeks 1-2: SubHangs x 20”; Weeks 3-4 : MED MaxHangs x 15” (4); Weeks 5-6: MAW MaxHangs on a 18 mm edge x 10” (4) .</div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Turning the intensity up and down</i> in 2-week cycles: from 20” to 10”, then 5”, 8” and so on.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>I particularly like block periodization</b> and use it a lot because it fits neatly with the others contents of the mesocycle and my vision of the macrocycle. A 12-15 week-long macrocycle is divided into blocks of 4 to 8 microcycles, each one aimed at some aspect of a quality, the idea being for all aspects to come together at the end of the macrocycle. For example:</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- Block 1: 4-8 weeks of MaxHangs for maximum strength. Block 2: 8 weeks of IntHangs or SubHangs to work endurance. Block 3: rest from dead-hangs if it is a competition cycle, or 2-3 weeks of MaxHangs with shorter hang times to recover some maximum strength.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">3.4.3. Sequencing and combining methods</span></b><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>Generally speaking, MaxHangs</b> allow us to gain strength via neural changes, while <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/04/abstract-of-article-Maxhangs-vs-inthangs-vs-acombination-on-gripendurance.html" target="_blank">IntHangs improve our endurance</a> and also have certain effect on<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" target="_blank"> strength (possibly via hypertrophy)</a>. MaxHangs have shown some influence on endurance as well. However, these effects depend on personal characteristics, and we will explain this now.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I’ll soon be presenting at the <a href="https://ircra2018.sciencesconf.org/resource/page/id/9" target="_blank">4th IRCRA Congress</a> a study conducted by myself where participants with a lower level of strength would gain endurance on an 11 mm edge after performing 4-weeks of MaxHangs, while stronger ones (> 30kg for 5 seconds on MAW test on 15 mm) tended to gain little or even lose endurance after the same intervention, probably due to the fact that more trained athletes need a longer training program or higher stimulus, or more varied to experiment strength gains (Deschenes & Kraemer, 2002; Häkkinen et al., 1985; Mangine et al., 2015; 2018). In any case, with an endurance goal in mind you may opt for IntHangs directly if you fit in the latter group or propose a longer program (> 8 weeks). While if you think to belong to the former there’s a potential advantage to first gaining some strength through MaxHangs -even if your goal is endurance- and then proceed to IntHangs. The immediate result is that you will work your IntHangs on smaller edges or more challenging holds, and what climber doesn’t want to grip a succession of tiny or terrible holds?</div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>My research also gives some pointers regarding the length of each program:</b></div>
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- <i>Those new to MaxHangs</i> can expect benefits in just 4 weeks, but strength will keep going up for 8 weeks, or even further if the hanging time is reduced (from 15 to 12 and 10 seconds, and even 7 and 5 seconds).</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- <i>The minimum recommended length of a IntHangs cycle</i> is 8 weeks as was explained<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" target="_blank"> in this previous blog.</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>No matter what method we are dealing with, its marginal effect </b>decreases with time, up to the point where <b>we plateau</b>. This is <b>specially true of MaxHangs with times shorter than 10 seconds</b>. Be prepared to detect this trend and <b>implement changes before it happens</b> (by now you won’t be surprised if I tell you that switching every 8 weeks is a good rule of thumb). At certain point, though, <b>we have to realize that maintaining certain level can be considered a success</b>; the body does not have an unlimited ability to adapt. In the context of strength there are facets that go beyond maximum force: explosive strength is important and at times we’ll have to make room for specific exercises like jumping to edges, explosive dead-hangs and campus board.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.5. Samples of MaxHangs training programs</b></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>At the start of this series we noted that the examples that follow must be taken as a template</b>; they don’t have to be completed or done in the order they are shown. The information we have provided will allow you to:</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
- <b>Choosing one cycle and repeating it</b> while it still yields some benefit, the default when you are new to a method or start from a low level for some reason.</div>
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- <b>Picking one method and sticking with it for one cycle</b>, for example 8 weeks of MED or MAW (instead of 4 wk MAWt + 4 wk MED).</div>
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- <b>Shaping the programs</b> to suit your preferences and experience, playing with one variable like hang time, number of sets, etc.</div>
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- <b>Applying different linear and nonlinear</b> periodization patterns.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
And <b>remember that in the long run there is no “magic bullet”meaning magic load or method</b>, and the stimuli need <b>to be varied periodically</b> and <b>keep in mind the “minimal effective dose” rule. </b>Review all the info if necessary.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3.5.1. MaxHangs planning proposal for lower levels of finger strength climbers and beginners in fingerboarding</span></b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9YMOybVzZdw5qL9zl2FeeDpF726HFhZcy0kn8vdL9sYy3TQQXRW6KWi-KGl7VQ4uurFsFKYp-WoAM6v-UYcBddfMbdaiPzw2IZnfmSep_zBtfAnn9jOpGgVz76aDRqNpv1_7z8EE-qs/s1600/Eva+Lopez%252C+MaxHangs+training+program%252C+lower+level%252C+BLOG%252C+EN%252Cwatermark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="740" data-original-width="520" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9YMOybVzZdw5qL9zl2FeeDpF726HFhZcy0kn8vdL9sYy3TQQXRW6KWi-KGl7VQ4uurFsFKYp-WoAM6v-UYcBddfMbdaiPzw2IZnfmSep_zBtfAnn9jOpGgVz76aDRqNpv1_7z8EE-qs/s400/Eva+Lopez%252C+MaxHangs+training+program%252C+lower+level%252C+BLOG%252C+EN%252Cwatermark.jpg" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clic to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.5.2. MaxHangs planning proposal for those familiar with hangboarding and climbers with medium level of finger strength</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9BC-vPEIrjvFAOjieykWNLxJRB5e00oVKPl7lbBA4VDmVAydCIQHLAFy_Ra2LR_EER09KidecVJp3w0cEeYbe1hKQdw_uiICPazbTIjsKXp859Y3-QcDJT8Wocmssd9QdBzINwU6oWk/s1600/Eva+Lopez%252C+MaxHangs+training+program%252C+intermediate+level%252C+BLOG%252C+EN%252C+watermark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="613" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-9BC-vPEIrjvFAOjieykWNLxJRB5e00oVKPl7lbBA4VDmVAydCIQHLAFy_Ra2LR_EER09KidecVJp3w0cEeYbe1hKQdw_uiICPazbTIjsKXp859Y3-QcDJT8Wocmssd9QdBzINwU6oWk/s400/Eva+Lopez%252C+MaxHangs+training+program%252C+intermediate+level%252C+BLOG%252C+EN%252C+watermark.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clic to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3.5.3. MaxHangs planning proposal for expert, high-level hangboarders</b></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWZGPZk8qGA2mtv-d0wINS8vLA8jz7OSxQ_UHpO5qZczrK7i4jJrohGqNaewbuERIUMR_jdldk94CfJ7inTik0L68qm7jbQ1hdNe9CzgKSWcku8KIXmsQOA0ckzgpKq-4miaEremuwwg/s1600/Eva+Lopez%252C+MaxHangs+training+program%252C+transgression%252C+high+level%252C+BLOG%252C+EN%252C+watermark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="617" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKWZGPZk8qGA2mtv-d0wINS8vLA8jz7OSxQ_UHpO5qZczrK7i4jJrohGqNaewbuERIUMR_jdldk94CfJ7inTik0L68qm7jbQ1hdNe9CzgKSWcku8KIXmsQOA0ckzgpKq-4miaEremuwwg/s400/Eva+Lopez%252C+MaxHangs+training+program%252C+transgression%252C+high+level%252C+BLOG%252C+EN%252C+watermark.jpg" width="356" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clic to enlarge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">3.6. Tips for reducing the incidence of overuse syndrome and plateauing, a for monitoring your training</span></b><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Signs of excessive load </b>while working out: raising the shoulders, elbows, torso or legs, and too much tension anywhere in the body.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Signs of excessive fatigue that should convince you of aborting, and delaying the session one or two days:</b> difference >2 mm in edge depth or >25 % in added weight from the previous session. Smaller, occasional differences can in principle be due to normal fatigue and require just adjusting the load.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Signs of inadequate load progression</b>: needing an easier edge or added weight for >2 sessions in a row; pain in fingers, wrists, elbows or neck; reduced performance in general. Revise your planning and do lighter workouts while you figure it out.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Start with the plan for beginners after your holidays, when you finished re-conditioning after an injury and, of course, if you are a beginner.</b> Rest for 1-2 weeks after every 4-week MaxHangs cycle or 8 weeks of IntHangs.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>In advanced phases and long cycles rest for 2 weeks after 8 weeks of </b>MaxHangs or 16 of IntHangs, and observe two or more one-month no-hangs periods every year.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Keep a training log</b>: exercises, edge sizes/hold difficulty and weights, perceived fatigue and progression, incidents, etc.; it helps monitoring your process, self-knowledge an motivation.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><b>Signs of an effective planning</b>: being able to hold smaller edges/more difficult holds or heavier weights as the cycle goes on. If your evolution feels a bit slow remember that the higher your starting level is the slower and smaller the gains will be, and vice versa.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
And this ends today’s post. Thank you very much for your motivation, I hope you com back for more as I follow with this series, which will feature IntHangs and SubHangs programs as well as nonlinear periodization examples where MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs will be combined.</div>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</b><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fingerboard training Guidelines: Condensed version of the info in this series in format poster</b></span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The training guidelines that are provided with the Progression and Transgression hangboards in format poster (330 x 483 mm) contain a condensed version of the info in this series, plus IntHangs programs yet to be published. These guides are now also available separately from the boards. <b>You can order them now at oriol@surfacesforclimbing.com. </b>Its price is 18€ if you live in Europe, and 20€ for the rest of countries<b>.</b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="969" data-original-width="1600" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9BlDjKkqP3Grp5LvAHAyi87XDWi1oE7pjf1p5ldH7RoPMgBQ8E7c3Gj2uX0Hrg4esFZcaPFIJicRISEWmpoxZLDMAvtMY4mYezpUZMgBhCmVoX90hAY59PeH6XqxNowaVt3_FmzeqIU4/s400/Eva+lopez+blog%252C+Progression+poster%252C+training+guide-201804705.jpg" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Progression hangboard training guide". Indicated for beginners and lower-level in finger strength climbers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1045" data-original-width="1600" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjT1_BiMJ3UIKp9w1xejpho8IyQgXsN_U2Etji_lGnGpvBU_cyWc-c3D1QIZBQnrfIm6J9_B544nFnO2Hsjo46BKKK8pb-9W8WPJsNuMQPPl8lFYdBwLi1_tNc3dwrDSIRVH-MZXnjuA8/s400/Eva+lopez+blog%252CTransgression+poster%252C+training+guide-201804705.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Transgression hangboard training guide". Indicated for intermediate- lo higher-level in finger strength climbers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjT1_BiMJ3UIKp9w1xejpho8IyQgXsN_U2Etji_lGnGpvBU_cyWc-c3D1QIZBQnrfIm6J9_B544nFnO2Hsjo46BKKK8pb-9W8WPJsNuMQPPl8lFYdBwLi1_tNc3dwrDSIRVH-MZXnjuA8/s1600/Eva+lopez+blog%252CTransgression+poster%252C+training+guide-201804705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjT1_BiMJ3UIKp9w1xejpho8IyQgXsN_U2Etji_lGnGpvBU_cyWc-c3D1QIZBQnrfIm6J9_B544nFnO2Hsjo46BKKK8pb-9W8WPJsNuMQPPl8lFYdBwLi1_tNc3dwrDSIRVH-MZXnjuA8/s1600/Eva+lopez+blog%252CTransgression+poster%252C+training+guide-201804705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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<b>LINKS RELATED</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-II-Maxhangs-SubHangs-and-Inthangs-methodology.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922;">Fingerboard Training Guide (II). Maximal grip Strength and Endurance Methods and Load Training management</a></span><br />
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-i-preliminary-evaluation.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922;">Fingerboard training guide (I). Preliminary evaluation</a></span><br />
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922;">Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers?</a></span><br />
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922;">Why do intermittent dead hangs?</a></span><br />
•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324731332_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_HB_Strength_and_Endurance_Training_Programs_on_Grip_Endurance_in_Sport_Climbers" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Comparison on the effects on finger endurance of Max Hangs vs. Int Hangs vs. a combination.</a> (ahead of print in Journal of Human Kinetics).<br />
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2013/04/some-finger-training-instructional.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922;">Some Finger Training Instructional Videos</a></span><br />
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #88bb22; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">•<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2017/07/intermittent-dead-hangs-programs-for.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #88bb22;">Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone</a></span><br />
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<b>REFERENCES</b></div>
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</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Deschenes, M. R., & Kraemer, W. J. (2002). </b>Performance and Physiologic. American Journal of Physical Medicine and Rehabilitation, 81(Suppl), S3–S16.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Chennaoui, M., Arnal, P. J., Sauvet, F., &amp; Léger, D. (2015)</b>. Sleep and exercise: A reciprocal issue? Sleep Medicine Reviews, 20(June), 59–72.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Fullagar, H. H. K., Skorski, S., Duffield, R., Hammes, D., Coutts, A. J., &amp; Meyer, T. (2015).</b> Sleep and Athletic Performance: The Effects of Sleep Loss on Exercise Performance, and Physiological and Cognitive Responses to Exercise. Sports Medicine, 45(2), 161–186.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Mangine, G. T., Hoffman, J. R., Gonzalez, A. M., Townsend, J. R., Wells, A. J., Jajtner, A. R., … Stout, J. R. (2015). The</b> effect of training volume and intensity on improvements in muscular strength and size in resistance-trained men. Physiological Reports, 3(8), e12472. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Mangine, G. T., Gonzalez, A. M., Townsend, J. R., Adam, J., Beyer, K. S., Miramonti, A. A., & Ratamess, N. A. (2018).</b> Influence of Baseline Muscle Strength and Size Measures on Training Adaptations in Resistance-trained Men. International Journal of Exercise Science, 11(4), 198–213.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Morán‑Navarro, R., Pérez, C. E., Mora‑Rodríguez, R., de La Cruz‑Sánchez, E., González‑badillo, J. J., Sánchez‑Medina, L., Pallarés, G. (2017)</b>. Time course of recovery following resistance training leading or not to failure. Eur J Appl Physiol, 117(12), 2387–2399.</span></li>
</ul>
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-53519342813118454122018-05-23T09:52:00.000+02:002019-01-10T17:46:40.633+01:00Fingerboard Training Guide (II). Maximal grip Strength and Endurance Methods and Load Training management<br />
Versión en <a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/05/guia-de-entrenamiento-de-suspensiones-II-metodos.html" target="_blank">español</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>I. The current state of affairs: Preliminary Evaluation</b></span><br />
<span style="text-align: justify;">This topic was addressed in the first part of this series. You can <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-i-preliminary-evaluation.html" target="_blank">read it here.</a></span><br />
<span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>II. Methodology</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.1. Naming Conventions and Training Methods</b></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In case you aren’t aware of the terminology we will explain it through examples of each method.</div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.1.1. Maximal dead hangs on the minimum edge depth (MED hangs), no added weight.</b></span><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>3-5 x </i><i>MED </i><i>Hangs x 5”-15” (1-5) :3’-5’</i></div>
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<b>EXAMPLE: 2 x MED H</b><b>angs </b><b> x 12” (3) :3’</b><br />
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The first number <i>(2)</i> indicates the number of sets; after the “x” we write the name of the method or protocol and exercise (<i>MED</i> = minimum edge depth; <i>Hangs</i> = dead hangs); what follows is the duration of each dead hang in seconds and the effort level (<i>EL</i>) or margin in parentheses; last is the rest interval length indicated by the colon. It reads like this:</div>
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<i>“Perform 2 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that would allow you to hang for 15 seconds max, but do just 12 to keep a margin of 3 seconds; rest 3 minutes between sets”.</i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLOQGOOIWrt_7-zxBbmOB8qOMhL9tikSPd8i3NCc5BE7QhgiGgKwoS9OjKfZqK-NB5e_ZV3jfKw3E-zrNiJeie9M8pE91Xw47O-4kEf4BpMIXqxLD0YqrXMHggwAuIEip-u417BV6hjaRb/s1600/Eva+Lopez+training+on+Transgression+board%252C+MED%252C+photo+by+Javipec.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="920" data-original-width="1380" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLOQGOOIWrt_7-zxBbmOB8qOMhL9tikSPd8i3NCc5BE7QhgiGgKwoS9OjKfZqK-NB5e_ZV3jfKw3E-zrNiJeie9M8pE91Xw47O-4kEf4BpMIXqxLD0YqrXMHggwAuIEip-u417BV6hjaRb/s400/Eva+Lopez+training+on+Transgression+board%252C+MED%252C+photo+by+Javipec.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Traning MaxHangs MED on Transgression board. Photo: <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a>.<br />
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<div>
<b>*THE EFFORT LEVEL (EL)</b></div>
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This term was proposed by González-Badillo & Gorostiaga in 1993 and was called ‘carácter del esfuerzo’ in the original Spanish. Some English-speaking authors like Schoenfeld (2016) have used alternative terms like ‘intensity of effort’ to refer to the same concept.</div>
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The particular layout we use to describe a session puts the EL between parentheses, to the right of the effort duration for each set. <i>The effort level tells us how close to our limit we get, the difference between the # of seconds or reps that we could possibly do and how many we actually do. In other words, how many seconds (or repetitions) we leave before muscle failure.</i> The closer to our limit, the higher the EL and the more fatigued we get. We can also think of it as a <b>margin, buffer, distance to failure or ‘repetitions in reserve’</b> (RIR; Steele et col., 2017).</div>
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<b>When we are working our maximal strength with methods that seek neural adaptations through the use of high loads</b>, the effort level is one of the parameters that will help us monitor and adjust the load. The reason is twofold:</div>
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<br />
<ol>
<li>It has been shown that leaving a margin yields similar results than reaching failure as far as these methods are concerned, with the bonus of reduced risk of overuse and injury, and faster recovery between sessions (Davies et al., 2017; Morán-Navarro et al., 2017; Sampson & Groeller, 2016).</li>
<li>Additionally, controlling the intensity of each set via the margin ensures we achieve the desired results in contrast to reaching failure in each set (Sánchez-Medina, 2010). The latter modality makes us remove some added weight or choose a deeper edge for each successive set due to fatigue. The physiological consequences (lactate, uric acid and ammonia buildup) are associated to the glycolytic pathway and phosphagen depletion (González-Badillo & Sánchez-Medina, 2011), which would trade the neural adaptations we seek for others, conducive to changes in endurance instead.</li>
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The practical application of this concept in MaxHangs is shown <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJhQduBxfy0" target="_blank">in this video</a>.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.1.2. Maximal dead hangs with added weight (MAW hangs)</b></span></div>
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<i>In this method we start by choosing one edge size:</i></div>
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<i>3-5 MAW </i><i>Hangs </i><i>x 8mm-20mm x 5”-15” (1-5) :3’-5’</i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHp2AlsPeJi6_z0DS62H-pMAujoMKkXSuxVzIHG4Ag6_bG1c4Ivm1WRJUpCit2X9cBRkGl24OJBz64wApSGAP6SsQ0-I14pIQb2xpfFTIIe8EbG9yOFcKdLGbfH0mcEeC49rV9AlwSHXKp/s1600/Babette+Roy+performing10+sec+hangs+with+10+lbs+on+the+Transgression+6mm+edge+at+Allez+up+climbing+gym%252C+20171123_cr.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1320" data-original-width="1077" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHp2AlsPeJi6_z0DS62H-pMAujoMKkXSuxVzIHG4Ag6_bG1c4Ivm1WRJUpCit2X9cBRkGl24OJBz64wApSGAP6SsQ0-I14pIQb2xpfFTIIe8EbG9yOFcKdLGbfH0mcEeC49rV9AlwSHXKp/s400/Babette+Roy+performing10+sec+hangs+with+10+lbs+on+the+Transgression+6mm+edge+at+Allez+up+climbing+gym%252C+20171123_cr.png" width="326" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Only Babette Roy can train weighted hangs on that edge size. Gym: <a href="https://allezup.com/en/" target="_blank">Allez up centre d'escalade</a> (Montreal, Canada). Hangboard: <a href="https://www.surfacesforclimbing.com/shop/trainingboards-fingerboards-climbing-fingers/" target="_blank">Transgression board</a>. Source: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bb2q982lGKQ/?taken-by=germain_coquin" target="_blank">Instagram</a>. Photo courtesy of Babette.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>EXAMPLE: 3 x MAW </b></span><b style="font-size: medium;">Hangs </b><b style="font-family: inherit; font-size: medium;"> x 18mm x 10” (3) :3’</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>And that reads:</b> Repeat 3 times (sets) the dead hangs exercise with a 18mm-deep edge, adding enough extra weight to last 13 seconds, but hanging just for 10 seconds to honor the 3-second margin; recover for 3 minutes between sets.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD6yqyydlhTK1drheH2rAkPeL2iYysBffZy4BIOUNR5wnTbTkaAwmOcquWZ8hyphenhyphenM-IlXykUzwEQjjnglZjJMtVGSqCZCT-rMofDd8XnmaygJMLSZTdeLWI2HdzVnJSbd1fqO5yGVs4yPjY/s1600/Eva+Lopez+blog+2018-new+terminology%252C+MaxHangs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="473" data-original-width="1519" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD6yqyydlhTK1drheH2rAkPeL2iYysBffZy4BIOUNR5wnTbTkaAwmOcquWZ8hyphenhyphenM-IlXykUzwEQjjnglZjJMtVGSqCZCT-rMofDd8XnmaygJMLSZTdeLWI2HdzVnJSbd1fqO5yGVs4yPjY/s400/Eva+Lopez+blog+2018-new+terminology%252C+MaxHangs.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">This figure helps learning the MaxHangs nomenclature. It is part of the Transgression and Progression training guides, that will be available for purchase separate from the fingerboards shortly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.1.3. Intermittent dead hangs (IntHangs) on the minimum edge or with added weight</b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Check <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank">this blog post </a>to learn more about this method.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>No added weight:</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>3-5 x 4-5 x MED </i></span><i>IntHangs </i><i style="font-family: inherit;">x 10”-7” :3”-30”/2’-1’</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Performed with added weight (advanced, ample training experience needed):</b></span></span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>3-5 x 4-5 x MAW </i></span><i>IntHangs </i><i style="font-family: inherit;">x 10mm-18mm x 7”-10” :3”-30”/2’-1’</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>EXAMPLE: 3 x4 x </b></span><b>MED MaxHangs </b><b style="font-family: inherit;">x 10” :20”/2’</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small; text-align: justify;">The long version: Perform 3 sets, comprised of 4 repetitions each, of 10-second dead hangs with a 20-second pause between repetitions and 2 minutes between sets; the edge will be the smallest that allows to complete all the repetitions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">You’ll have noticed the lack of a margin before failure indication, but this is by design because here we want to reach failure in the last repetition of the last set, but not before. To achieve that, we have to learn to manage the intensity by choosing the edge depth carefully, based on our perception of effort.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1HiDMzbrRLYTnTYqkd8r6VBng-uphXtd0WgGTBGXr-wBo8LC6UHnKOfD6YW2uxFK74MljBJ4Va4LYx5du4BomDjwXxBz5IBtGKrEjCs7pWzGHQVz8HlzrQ0rOjjudsKqNGPb3WEMcBk8/s1600/Eva+Lopez+blog+2018-new+terminology%252C+IntHangs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="958" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1HiDMzbrRLYTnTYqkd8r6VBng-uphXtd0WgGTBGXr-wBo8LC6UHnKOfD6YW2uxFK74MljBJ4Va4LYx5du4BomDjwXxBz5IBtGKrEjCs7pWzGHQVz8HlzrQ0rOjjudsKqNGPb3WEMcBk8/s400/Eva+Lopez+blog+2018-new+terminology%252C+IntHangs.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">The basic nomenclature for the MED IntHangs method.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.1.4. Submaximal dead hangs (SubHangs), on the smallest edge or with added weight</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>This is the first appearance of Submaximal dead hangs (SubHangs) in this blog.</b> The configuration is similar to that of MaxHangs, with the difference that longer hanging times <b>have effects on grip endurance, and presumably on maximum strength via hypertrophy</b>. Your hangboarding workout in this context requires the optimal combination of mechanical tension and metabolic stress (Schoenfeld, 2016), so I recommend pauses between sets longer than 1 minute to maintain the intensity (edge size or added weight) reasonably stable throughout the session.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">When opting for MED the edge will obviously be much bigger than the MaxHangs one; as for MAW, I’d only prescribe them to someone with a high or elite level very familiar with advanced finger training.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">4-8 x MED </span>H</span></i><i style="font-size: medium;">angs</i><i style="font-size: medium;"> x 20”-45” :30”-2’</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><i>4-8 x MAW </i></span><i>Hangs </i><i>x 14mm-20mm x 20”-45” :30”-2’ (really advanced method)</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>It is advisable to start with a longer pause, 2 or even 3 minutes</b>, and shorten it step by step, down to 90” or 30” while keeping the hang duration or the edge size constant; alternatively you can increase the hang time and keep the pause unchanged. <b>Which one suits your needs better? Your goals will inform your choice: </b>the need to have a quick recovery between efforts or hold the grip on a particular hold size for the longest possible time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.2 Load Training Management</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">It is vital to <b>control the training load day by day, exercise by exercise and of course, set by set. </b>Intensity is the key variable in strength training. As climbers this translates into the need to make sure the hold size or the added weight are in tune with the pre-set method requirements. <b>In short: honoring the programmed hanging time and margin in order to obtain the desired training effects.</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.2.1. Determining and controlling intensity in the MaxHangs method</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Before choosing the load for the first set we must warm-up</b>, doing 3-4 dead hangs if you have already done some climbing on the wall, or 6-8 otherwise. Other factors like individual characteristics and temperature can condition warm-up volume. These initial sets will be progressively harder, from 50% to 90% of the training added weight or hold depth; the last set helps us guessing the load required to comply with the effort duration and the margin for the day, and we should get near failure in this set to accomplish it. The way I see it, you only need this procedure the first time you start performing a method.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Once we have a baseline, we will employ this approach in all subsequent sets and training days:</b> if you feel you won’t comply with the EL, the solution is to add or remove added weight as necessary, or change to an easier or harder edge in order to keep a constant load. Guessing your time to failure seems difficult and not very precise, but it doesn’t take long to learn it, and accuracy improves with experience, based on my own experience and recent research (Steele et col., 2017). Training always to failure does not require this cognitive investment, but as we have already mentioned the drawbacks are not worth it (Morán-Navarro et col., 2017).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>EXAMPLE OF INTENSITY CONTROL IN MAXHANGS</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Suppose your planning for today prescribes hanging for 12 seconds off an edge that you could hold for 16 seconds (4” margin), and you have chosen a 20mm edge; warming up or in the first set you realize your maximum time would be 13 seconds (1” margin), so you change to a 22 or 24mm edge. The process is the same in MAW but adding or removing weights (2-5 kg depending on body weight and perception).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Here you can watch a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDQeAySB_to" target="_blank">video on handling the load in a MAW Hangs workout</a>and in a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUUPw9o1OJ4" target="_blank">MED Hangs workout</a>. Body posture and general execution are important to avoid injury.<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIFGtjBfxRo" target="_blank"> The right technique is shown in this video.</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.2.2. Determining and controlling Intensity in IntHangs and SubHangs</b></span></div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Before choosing the load for the first set we must warm-up, doing 3-5 dead hangs</b> if you have already done some climbing on the wall, or 8-10 otherwise, Other factors like individual characteristics and temperature can condition warm-up volume. These initial sets will be progressively harder, from 50% to 90% of the training load, adding weights or reducing edge depth. The effort duration will be similar to the training one, for example doing sets of 10 seconds with 10-second long pauses for IntHangs and longer, or around 30-second hangs for SubHangs.<b> The last warm-up set should help you guess</b> the initial weight or hold size for the day, which is not set in stone and can change from one set to the next.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">LOAD MANAGEMENT IN INTHANGS AND SUBHANGS</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Having determined this initial training load we should repeat the above procedure in each set, each session.</b> <b>The goal here is to end the session with failure,</b> and guessing the right weight or edge from the get go is unlikely, making corrections on the fly to finish all the reps and sets (IntHangs) or all the sets (SubHangs) is part of the game. Failing too soon or not failing at all will have a different effect than the one we were aiming for when designing the exercise.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2.3. What hangboard should I choose?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">When <b>we focus on constantly controlling the intensity and personalizing the training, access to a variety of weights and edge sizes makes our life a lot easier</b>; the Progression and Transgression boards have you covered, but there are other options for different kinds of holds, like slopers. A cheaper alternative is having several wooden rungs with varying depths, or building your own <a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2010/06/como-fabricar-tu-propio-regletometro.html" target="_blank">adjustable edge</a> or adjustable sloper (see pictures below).</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXBdjxPbXi5aEfUx5Af69po1gEeC9ezCjaAOwujE0cKDZTy114W48jMslMxk7ma8PK5kE-znLdm_4NlZGuq-8QgyU03Lo-xAawU1-PvqwO4JEyNUIkWnRQguUX1FBb6eM5kLXHbcEapCc/s1600/Transgression+20151010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="514" data-original-width="970" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXBdjxPbXi5aEfUx5Af69po1gEeC9ezCjaAOwujE0cKDZTy114W48jMslMxk7ma8PK5kE-znLdm_4NlZGuq-8QgyU03Lo-xAawU1-PvqwO4JEyNUIkWnRQguUX1FBb6eM5kLXHbcEapCc/s400/Transgression+20151010.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">The TRANSGRESSION board offers 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14 and 18 mm edges.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Source: <a href="https://www.surfacesforclimbing.com/shop/training-boards-transgression-with-training-plan/#tab-2" target="_blank">Surfaces for Climbing</a></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha1innwXaacJPth-vbUVibeBAKcL7nIDIIluEl8GtcW6FftqYfLfjipGkHXqWqsG9MIXi0Q_H2AUeIBtGqXGL7YoORzt-By3wqySZPv60eOmtRAn2qFhj6s51LfIs0GQD9aSrl-HddudvI/s1600/PROGRESSSION+Polyurethane.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="887" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha1innwXaacJPth-vbUVibeBAKcL7nIDIIluEl8GtcW6FftqYfLfjipGkHXqWqsG9MIXi0Q_H2AUeIBtGqXGL7YoORzt-By3wqySZPv60eOmtRAn2qFhj6s51LfIs0GQD9aSrl-HddudvI/s400/PROGRESSSION+Polyurethane.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">The PROGRESSION board offers 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 and 24 mm edges. Fuente: <a href="https://www.surfacesforclimbing.com/shop/training-boards-progression-with-training-plan/#tab-1" target="_blank">Surfaces for Climbing</a></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: justify;"> </span>If you are on a budget, you can build and install the edge sizes you need. Source: <a href="https://dieselryder.wordpress.com/2008/09/29/nuevas-ideas-sobre-la-tabla/">dieselryder.wordpress.com</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1i5s8bEn1CO5pxpqlv_h0MTbqRZFIoDsBO_7zx6tR3rc_270tVdVxOAlPcjX09-54_6tqDY3vY6YsTNr1cH_NTuA8Lqba8fFyMtig8PLHr3B5adnArnELUMI-GewIbcZ17mPttm6Hhbj/s1600/Eva+Lopez+blogspot%252C+romometro+y+regletometro%252C+slopers+strength%252C+evidencebasedtrainingtools%252C+finger+strengthjpg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="741" data-original-width="1600" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1i5s8bEn1CO5pxpqlv_h0MTbqRZFIoDsBO_7zx6tR3rc_270tVdVxOAlPcjX09-54_6tqDY3vY6YsTNr1cH_NTuA8Lqba8fFyMtig8PLHr3B5adnArnELUMI-GewIbcZ17mPttm6Hhbj/s400/Eva+Lopez+blogspot%252C+romometro+y+regletometro%252C+slopers+strength%252C+evidencebasedtrainingtools%252C+finger+strengthjpg.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">These DIY contraptions are cheap and use recycled materials but still allow you to change how hard the hold is to grip, making it possible to manage the load and carry out a progressive and personalized training program. Left: our adjustable sloper; right: the adjustable edge, built to test and train strength on edges for my first research works in 2004.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>The width of the device/edges</b> should be around 50 cm, so you can place your hands at the distance of your elbows or a bit wider and thus decrease the chance of overload due to excessive pronation in the pronator teres, wrist or elbow.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Remember that training the open hand grip </b>with 1, 2 or 3 fingers calls for holds with rounder lips. If your edges are long enough you can make some sections blunter with a file or sandpaper, leaving a more aggressive profile in other parts to use the half crimp.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>NEXT IN THIS SERIES:</b> </span><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/07/fingerboard-training-guide-iii-periodization-samples-of-maxhangs-training-programs-.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-size: 12.8px; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Fingerboard Training Guide (III). Program design and Periodization of MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs. Samples of MaxHangs training programs</span></a></div>
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<b style="text-align: justify;">LINKS RELATED</b></div>
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<li><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-i-preliminary-evaluation.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #88bb22;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Fingerboard training guide (I). Preliminary evaluation</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Why do intermittent dead hangs?</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers?</span></a></li>
<li><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/04/abstract-of-article-Maxhangs-vs-inthangs-vs-acombination-on-gripendurance.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Abstract of my article studying the effect on finger endurance of Max Hangs vs. Int Hangs vs. a combination.</span></a></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/04/some-finger-training-instructional.html" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #88bb22; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Some hangboarding Instructional Videos</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/07/intermittent-dead-hangs-programs-for.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; text-decoration-line: none;">Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone</a><span style="background-color: white; color: #38761d;">-<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2016/12/complex-timer-training-app-for-climbing.html" style="background: transparent; color: #669922; text-decoration-line: none;">Complex Timer: A Training app for Climbing</a></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/published-research-article-and-summary.html" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); color: #669922; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="background: rgb(255 , 255 , 255); color: #669922;">Published Research Article, and a Summary of the Guidelines on finger strength Methodology described in this Blo</span><span style="background: rgb(255 , 255 , 255); color: #669922;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">g</span></span></a></span></li>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>REFERENCES</b></span><br />
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<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Davies, T, Orr, R, Halaki, M, and Hackett, D. (2016)</b>. Effect of Training Leading to Repetition Failure on Muscular Strength: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Sport Med 46: 487–502, 2016.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Sánchez-Medina, L., &amp; González-Badillo, J. J. (2011).</b> Velocity loss as an indicator of neuromuscular fatigue during resistance training. Medicine &amp; Science in Sports &amp; Exercise, (22), 1725–1734.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>González-Badillo, J. J., Marques, M. C., Sánchez-Medina, L. (2011). </b>The Importance of Movement Velocity as a Measure to Control Resistance Training Intensity. Journal of Human Kinetics, 29 (Special Issue), 15–19. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>González-Badillo, J.J., &amp; Gorostiaga, E.. (1993). </b> Fundamentos del entrenamiento de la fuer za. Aplicación al alto rendimiento deportivo.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Morán‑navarro, R., Pérez, C. E., Mora‑rodríguez, R., De La Cruz‑sánchez, E., González‑Badillo, J. J., Sánchez‑Medina, L., … Pallarés, G. (2017). </b>Time course of recovery following resistance training leading or not to failure. Eur J Appl Physiol, 117(12), 2387–2399.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Sampson, J. A. &amp; Groeller, H. (2016).</b> Is repetition failure critical for the development of muscle hypertrophy and strength? Scandinavian Journal of Medicine and Science in Sports, 26(4), 375–383.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Schoenfeld, B. (2016)</b>. Science and Development of Muscle Hypertrophy. Human Kinetics.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Steele, J., Endres, A., Fisher, J., Gentil, P., &amp; Giessing, J. (2017). </b>Ability to predict repetitions to momentary failure is not perfectly accurate, though improves with resistance training experience. PeerJ, 5(November), e4105.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Sundrup, E., Jakobsen, M. D., Andersen, C. H., Zebis, M. K., Mortensen, O. S., &amp; Andersen, L. L. (2012).</b> Muscle Activation strategies during strength training with heavy loading versus repetition to failure. J Strength Con Res, 26(7)M 1897-1903.</span></li>
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-75423525899209804492018-05-17T21:45:00.000+02:002018-07-08T08:29:07.701+02:00Fingerboard training guide (I). Preliminary evaluation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Versión en <a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/05/programas-de-entrenamiento-de-Suspensiones-i-evaluacion-inicial.html" target="_blank">español</a><br />
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We have already talked extensively about how, why and what effects do Maximal Hangs (MaxHangs) and <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank">Intermittent Hangs</a> (IntHangs) have on <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/04/abstract-of-article-Maxhangs-vs-inthangs-vs-acombination-on-gripendurance.html" target="_blank">grip endurance</a> and <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" target="_blank">strength</a>. What follows is the start of a series where we will put all those results into practice.<br />
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I will suggest a set of guidelines to build a training program; we will see how to progressively modify volume and intensity for each method. Later we will review some MaxHangs and IntHangs planning proposals, and learn when to use them (by themselves or combined) according to your short-, mid- and long-term goals.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8iPBTxf8gI3_Yo8LDxzSf6OPb1MIz_CodF0eObJPdRTzGCK_d4y1rUd0_rKlFRyR3qKaab_ypNrMaw-2Dg1B5NyM3qHXpF9jQy5MV5Z5LaiYndLphngADZYz1ZzWIW_VDvneL-z9Usr1/s1600/eva+lopez+blog%252C+setting+goals.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="299" data-original-width="400" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8iPBTxf8gI3_Yo8LDxzSf6OPb1MIz_CodF0eObJPdRTzGCK_d4y1rUd0_rKlFRyR3qKaab_ypNrMaw-2Dg1B5NyM3qHXpF9jQy5MV5Z5LaiYndLphngADZYz1ZzWIW_VDvneL-z9Usr1/s320/eva+lopez+blog%252C+setting+goals.jpg" style="text-align: center;" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Disclaimer:</i> the guidelines and planning that I’m going to put forward are just a subset of all the possible combinations that can yield positive results, which include those proposed by other authors and, of course, the ones that you will create. Anyway, to help you make informed decisions I think it is a good idea to go step by step. Here we go!</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">I. The current state of affairs: Preliminary Evaluation</span></div>
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There are some questions you need to ask yourself before submitting your fingers to such an intensive and specific method to make sure it will benefit your performance:</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1.1. Have you been climbing and training in a systematized fashion for more than 2 years?</b></span></div>
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<b>Systematized means</b> training or climbing 2-3 days per week, with some consistency and order, specially for the last year, given that the first couple of years it is normal to have a less organized approach to the sport.</div>
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On the other hand, this requisite acknowledges that while muscles can adapt to the sport in a matter of months, other structures like capsules, cartilages, tendons and ligaments take years to develop the mechanical adaptations (thickness, tensile strength, etc.) needed to safely perform dead-hangs. Based on my experience and what literature says, I would suggest two to three years as a reasonable interval.</div>
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The following question is important although it can overlap slightly with the previous one:</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1.2. Do you have an average technical-tactical repertoire?</b></span></div>
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If you don’t have a lot of spare time for training and are wondering whether to invest part of it on training your fingers, would that detract from the much needed technical gains that you would achieve by climbing in the gym instead and are so important in the early years?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKu1IYJulNya0_Tytdafi-s8PTIX5SN_IzDzAbdG9HIW2lWhSUZlqkcmV94rSyo-z21-hLuq36h48XlTIA2XABzW4cGIs9jzhkff7eul1ppQOkQiSe1iKgTCkEt8R1mi9hTc-JM5Rav4u/s1600/johnny+dawes-reparto+peso%252C+equilibrio%252C+slab%252C+balance%252C+weigth+management%252C+technique%252C+footwork.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="371" data-original-width="420" height="282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkKu1IYJulNya0_Tytdafi-s8PTIX5SN_IzDzAbdG9HIW2lWhSUZlqkcmV94rSyo-z21-hLuq36h48XlTIA2XABzW4cGIs9jzhkff7eul1ppQOkQiSe1iKgTCkEt8R1mi9hTc-JM5Rav4u/s320/johnny+dawes-reparto+peso%252C+equilibrio%252C+slab%252C+balance%252C+weigth+management%252C+technique%252C+footwork.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Johnny Dawes. Source: <a href="http://blog.frontiergap.com/blog/2012/1/31/into-the-wild-meets-johnny-dawes.html" target="_blank">Into the Wild Blog</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1.3. Are you 16 or older? Are you past your growth spurt?</b></span></div>
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The works of Morrison & Schöffl (2007) and Schweizer (2012) show correlation between intensive finger training and the use of the crimp grip before puberty and the incidence of severe injuries like stress fractures. The most dangerous period is the growth spurt that takes place at age 11-12 in girls and 13-14 in boys, but the risk remains until the growth plates (the zone where the bones grow) are closed.</div>
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Regularly using the full crimp and the half crimp under high loads, like grabbing tiny holds or applying high acceleration on medium ones, can harm an adult’s ligaments, sheaths, capsules, tendons or ligaments, while a youngster can experience from sporadic inflammation and pain to tears, fractures and chronic deformity. The problem is that this tissue is 2-5 times weaker than its surroundings, and one of them is located just where it meets the flexor digitorum superficialis (see picture below).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiliZ_24Dzk26nmJPfUcBgpq8UrJyBaxsqjcGxOL9DzzsFXOMYlfRNBQp1qP2SrSg3jXdKX2AAK1tQPl4lrQgWxxa8ztz8gMFS5gk58uBTe3Wn-aeydSF6oTVkOIZNc4c5rfDAm_j2slip8/s1600/20100317-Eva+Lopez+article+grip+types+02b%252C+Figure+6%252C+copyright+Swiss+medical+weekly%252C+2012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="195" data-original-width="190" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiliZ_24Dzk26nmJPfUcBgpq8UrJyBaxsqjcGxOL9DzzsFXOMYlfRNBQp1qP2SrSg3jXdKX2AAK1tQPl4lrQgWxxa8ztz8gMFS5gk58uBTe3Wn-aeydSF6oTVkOIZNc4c5rfDAm_j2slip8/s320/20100317-Eva+Lopez+article+grip+types+02b%252C+Figure+6%252C+copyright+Swiss+medical+weekly%252C+2012.jpg" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> </span>When crimping, the dorsal area at the base of the medial phalanx bears a considerable tension precisely where the growth plate is located (copyright by Swiss Medical Weekly, 2012, 142, 1–9)</td></tr>
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By the way, we should take this into account when designing our climbing classes and setting routes and boulders in the gym or in competitions.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtW2yGQVjPuKxQ9vCFZI1FFWXF6C6IyKDxqOKw1ePOdXM2zE_Apbbmrbf6hWoVV6dnA1OXWItrc-kM8hYr-uGpXJ02IYBPjZHZfqy7lv8dDUsL-m2k-8vKVQpyG7_iNws4qVCwVjGQbr_/s1600/23970128_190254354885465_6840384216639733760_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtW2yGQVjPuKxQ9vCFZI1FFWXF6C6IyKDxqOKw1ePOdXM2zE_Apbbmrbf6hWoVV6dnA1OXWItrc-kM8hYr-uGpXJ02IYBPjZHZfqy7lv8dDUsL-m2k-8vKVQpyG7_iNws4qVCwVjGQbr_/s400/23970128_190254354885465_6840384216639733760_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Iziar Martínez Almendros, a promising climber competing at the “Open La Ola 2017” in Salamanca, Spain. Source: Instagram</span></td></tr>
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If you are still interested in kids developing some grip strength don’t worry, there is a blog post coming to help you precisely with that.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br />1.4. Are you injury-free? Do you suffer from any condition that makes finger training inadvisable?</b></span></div>
<div>
Have you adequately recovered from your last injury?</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The less severe lesions take at least 2 months to heal, others can take 6 or more. In truth, once the subacute phase is over and reconditioning work starts, dead-hangs are not out of the question. An experienced physical therapist can guide you through a routine of analytic exercises followed by assisted dead-hangs (with rubber bands or pulleys) on deep, rounded holds. In all cases the programs will NOT be the ones recommended in this series.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>1.5. What are your level and objectives?</b></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;">1.5.1. Is your finger strength low, but not ‘very low’?</span></div>
<div>
Check this with the following test on a 25 mm edge (one phalanx and a half):</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
- If you can hang for 15 seconds you could start doing dead-hangs as a method to develop your grip strength.</div>
<div>
- If your time is less than 15 seconds I’d suggest you work your fingers by climbing instead of using an analytic method. Remember my philosophy: “Use the easiest dose, exercise and method that still makes you improve”. If I were you, I’d rather keep on developing my strength by climbing than doing hangs on a deep edge or a bar; instead, you could:</div>
<div>
- Occasionally climb on steeper (more overhanging) walls than you are used to.</div>
<div>
- Including some (10-20%) small foot- and handholds in your training routes or boulders.</div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWS1SZ8yGEsJhPpo4F0LE9wHIdWKudScGpsTYPdN9JKFntX2NKXm7t_xGrW1sgvLYyeesy_7Gnls3kCuY-493ROD1_tF1aj9nRPoqrv93hUF0KWmNgKjVXvGaZfD_9TtJIFmG9o9Z6Mohv/s1600/IMG-20180514-WA0013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWS1SZ8yGEsJhPpo4F0LE9wHIdWKudScGpsTYPdN9JKFntX2NKXm7t_xGrW1sgvLYyeesy_7Gnls3kCuY-493ROD1_tF1aj9nRPoqrv93hUF0KWmNgKjVXvGaZfD_9TtJIFmG9o9Z6Mohv/s400/IMG-20180514-WA0013.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><a href="http://gekoaventura.com/" target="_blank">Gekoaventura</a>, Indoor Adventure and Climbing Park in Valladolid, Spain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
It’s still possible that you like to try every kind of method from the very beginning, and you have the time and capacity for it; in the end the choice is always yours.</div>
<div>
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<div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;">1.5.2. Using a percentile table to assess the starting level</span></div>
<div>
We can add some extra information to the test above by getting an idea of our position relative to a climber population. I built a percentile table based on data from a 2004 study of maximal hang time on several wooden edges (6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 mm) that was part of my thesis (n=37, levels 6a to 8c+). However, please be aware that the sample size is small and that in the intervening 14 years the population level must have changed. In this line, we have to take in account that <b>this statistical measure is dependent on the study sample features</b> (Spanish climbers, living in Toledo and Madrid, who trained and climbing in specific areas...) so you should be cautious when interpreting it. You can take it as a curiosity. Furthermore, you also need to follow the standardized test protocol (check my<a href="https://ruidera.uclm.es/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10578/5402/TESIS%20L%C3%B3pez%20Rivera.pdf?sequence=1" target="_blank"> Doctoral thesis)</a> to be able to compare the results.</div>
<div>
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<div>
<b>The percentile is</b> a measure that tells us in what position a mark is with respect to a population. In this table, if your maximum time on 14 mm is 30 seconds, then you are approximately in the 25th percentile, which means that in a representative sample of 100 people around 25 would have a worse time than yours and around 75 would do better than you.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
As an interesting aside, the 14 mm test was the most reliable and showed a significant positive correlation with sport level. This means that it could be used for predicting performance or even detecting new talent, but always as part of a suite of metrics that measure other physical, technical, tactical, psychological or anthropometric aspects.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Three broad categories can be established based on the table:</div>
<div>
<b>Lower level: </b>those equal or below the 25th percentile, like hanging for less than 10 seconds off a 10 mm edge.</div>
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<b>Intermediate level:</b> between the 25th and the 75th percentiles.</div>
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<b>Higher level:</b> above the 85th percentile.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNA6WUrGHfmLc7M49FI6G0hwxM2thpYy71iefe0TpRUMoFFqmkclACcV7Ir_wM3XeGQrSzem1dbqgKm_MpjIauGIZ-g3nNMz18ZL9nm5IkMAvvdrKrwnsQpE49ay4tKDkMRpccSvoDCnI/s1600/Eva+Lopez-Rivera+2004-maximum+hanging+time+on+different+edge+sizes%252C+percentiles%252C+EN.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="857" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNA6WUrGHfmLc7M49FI6G0hwxM2thpYy71iefe0TpRUMoFFqmkclACcV7Ir_wM3XeGQrSzem1dbqgKm_MpjIauGIZ-g3nNMz18ZL9nm5IkMAvvdrKrwnsQpE49ay4tKDkMRpccSvoDCnI/s400/Eva+Lopez-Rivera+2004-maximum+hanging+time+on+different+edge+sizes%252C+percentiles%252C+EN.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">1.5.3. Objectives and training grip type</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<b>If your usual climbing spot or your choice project</b> require climbing on edges, specially at the crux, it’s advisable to train the half crimp or the open crimp (check <a href="https://www.archclimbingwall.com/magazine-backend/2016/5/18/grip-types-and-finger-strength-training-the-crimp-grip-i" target="_blank">this series to learn about grip types</a>). If, instead, it’s mainly pockets or slopers it will be a good idea to train the open hand. For <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/02/training-pinch-strength-for-climbing.html" target="_blank">training your pinch strength, have a look at this blog post.</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Anyway, if you have the capacity, time, experience and level (medium to high) consider</b> training 4 days/week with 2 days for each grip type and 48h rest between them, or work both the same day reducing 25-30% the volume of each grip; for example, instead of doing 3 sets of half crimp/open crimp and 3 of open hand, do just 2 of each. If you need to choose one grip type do it attending to your weaknesses or, by the contrary, looking at what increases your immediate chances of success.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
Here ends the first phase of “Designing your own dead-hangs training plan”. <b>The next article will tackle Methodology:</b> <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-II-Maxhangs-SubHangs-and-Inthangs-methodology.html" target="_blank">naming conventions and methods: MinEd, MaxW, IntHangs, load management and which fingerboard to choose</a>.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>LINKS RELATED</b></div>
<div>
<div style="background-color: white;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: blue;">-</span><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" style="background: transparent; color: #88bb22;">Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers?</a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #38761d;">-<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" style="background: transparent; color: #669922;">Why do intermittent dead hangs?</a></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">- <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/254368989_The_effects_of_two_maximum_grip_strength_training_methods_using_the_same_effort_duration_and_different_edge_depth_on_grip_endurance_in_elite_climbers" style="background: transparent; color: #669922;" target="_blank">López-Rivera, E. y González-Badillo, J.J. (2012)</a>. The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers. Sport Technol 5: 1–11.</span><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/04/abstract-of-article-Maxhangs-vs-inthangs-vs-acombination-on-gripendurance.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-family: inherit;">Abstract of my article studying the effect on finger endurance of Max Hangs vs. Int Hangs vs. a combination.</a><br />
-<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/04/some-finger-training-instructional.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #88bb22; font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Some hangboarding Instructional Videos</a><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #38761d; font-family: inherit;">- <a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/07/intermittent-dead-hangs-programs-for.html" style="background: transparent; color: #669922;">Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone</a></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #38761d; font-family: inherit;">-<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2016/12/complex-timer-training-app-for-climbing.html" style="background: transparent; color: #669922;">Complex Timer: A Training app for Climbing</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">- </span><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/published-research-article-and-summary.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #669922; font-family: inherit;">Published Research Article, and a Summary of the Guidelines on finger strength Methodology described in this Blo</span><span style="color: #669922; font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">g</span></span></a><br />
- <a href="https://www.archclimbingwall.com/magazine-backend/2016/4/25/doubts-about-finger-training-1" ping="/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.archclimbingwall.com/magazine-backend/2016/4/25/doubts-about-finger-training-1&ved=0ahUKEwiU6Z7v3Y7bAhVMPsAKHWvdCm4QFggoMAA" style="cursor: pointer; font-family: inherit; text-decoration-line: none; white-space: nowrap;" target="_blank">#1 Doubts about finger training — The Arch Climbing Wall</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b>REFERENCIAS</b></div>
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Balyi, I., &amp; Hamilton, A. (2004).</b> Long-Term Athlete Development: Trainability in Childhood and Adolescence, Windows of Opportunity, Optimal Trainability. Victoria, British Columbia, Canada: National Coaching Institute British Columbia and Advanced Training and Performance Ltd.</span></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.climbingcanada.ca/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/LTAD-Sport-Climbing-FINAL.pdf" target="_blank"><b>Canadian Sport for Life. (2017).</b> </a>Sport climbing for sport, for life. LTAD Long Term Athlete Development. Canadian Sport for Life.</span></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Morrison, A. B., &amp; Schöffl, V. R. (2007). </b>Physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 41(12), 852–861; discussion 861.</span></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Schweizer, A. (2012)</b>. Sport climbing from a medical point of view. Swiss Medical Weekly, 142(October), 1–9.</span></li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Schöffl, V., Lutter, C., Woollings, K., &amp; Schöffl, I. (2018).</b> Pediatric and adolescent injury in rock climbing. Research in Sports Medicine, 26(1), 91–113.</span></li>
</ul>
</div>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-91213229707162863612018-04-18T12:28:00.001+02:002018-07-05T12:31:09.251+02:00My paper on The effect on finger endurance of Max Hangs vs. Int Hangs vs. a combination.<br />
Versión en <a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/04/abstract-del-articulo-que-investigo-el.html" target="_blank">español</a><br />
<br />
As I advanced a couple of days ago through social media, I'm happy to announce that past January one of my latest research articles was accepted for publication in The <a href="http://www.johk.pl/index.html" target="_blank">Journal of Human Kinetics</a>, a peer-reviewed, open-access journal. This means you'll be able to read the paper without the need to pay for a subscription or a fee.<br />
<br />
Pending the assignment of a DOI (<a href="http://www.sciencemag.org/site/misc/doi.xhtml" target="_blank">digital object identifier</a>), when the full text paper will be available, here is the abstract, as a little teaser and following <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324731332_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_HB_Strength_and_Endurance_Training_Programs_on_Grip_Endurance_in_Sport_Climbers" target="_blank">this link you will be able to download the preprint version</a>. It is important to remember that, though the abstract gives you a general overview of the contents, it is advisable to read the full text when it is available. By doing so you’ll get all the nuance that will help you understand the methodology and judge the results in the context of its particular experimental design in order to arrive to your own conclusions and eventually extract something useful for your training.<br />
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So, without further ado, here it is, brief but intense. Hoping you’ll be eager for more, enjoy it!<br />
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
“Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers”</h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i>Note.</i> This article has been accepted for print in a forthcoming issue of the Journal of Human Kinetics. The full text shall appear in the InPress section in the upcoming weeks; then the DOI will be assigned and the whole manuscript will be available online in the <a href="http://www.johk.pl/index.html" target="_blank">journal website</a>. The abstract appears here in its accepted, peer-reviewed form, as it was provided by the submitting author.</div>
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<b>Article title:</b> “Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers”<br />
<br />
<b>Authors</b>: Eva López-Rivera1; Juan José González-Badillo2<br />
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<b>Affiliations:</b> 1 Faculty of Sport Sciences, Castilla La-Mancha University, Toledo, Spain. 2 Faculty of Sport Sciences, Pablo de Olavide University, Seville, Spain.<br />
<br />
<b>Journal: </b>Journal of Human Kinetics.<br />
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<b>Acceptance date:</b> 31 January 2018.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
Abstract</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Intermittent isometric endurance of the forearm flexors is a determinant factor of sport climbing performance. However, little is known about the best method to improve grip endurance in sport climbing regarding maximal or intermittent dead-hang training methods. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of three 8-week finger training programs using dead-hangs (maximal, intermittent, and a combination) on grip endurance. Twenty-six advanced sport climbers (7c+/8a mean climbing ability) were randomly distributed among three groups: maximal dead-hangs with maximal added weight on an 18 mm edge followed by MaxHangs on minimal edge depth; intermittent dead-hangs using the minimal edge depth, and a combination of both. The grip endurance gains and effect size were 34% and 0.6, respectively, for the group following maximal dead-hang training, 45% and 1, respectively, for the group following intermittent dead-hang training, and 7% and 0.1, respectively, for the group applying the combination of both training methods. Grip endurance increased significantly after 4 weeks in the group performing intermittent dead-hangs (p = 0.004) and after 8 weeks in both groups performing intermittent dead-hangs (p = 0.002) and MaxHangs (p = 0.010). The results suggest that the intermittent dead-hangs training method seems to be more effective for grip endurance development after eight week application in advanced sport-climbers. However, both methods, maximal and intermittent dead-hangs, could be alternated for longer training periods.</div>
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<b>Key words:</b> rock climbing, dead-hang training, intermittent isometric training, strength, endurance, climbing performance.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GJFXrBHpzpO5HYSQb_4iY5VykfdfNB8Q6ZJtHI_9lSB9myy-tXPS3cQAW7UzX3u6NBfEeFfPCESmspEHUFOKMA8zHCZu_nLaqoiau_3_E0-yNLNyKq0L9jeIuGWF6jCxLzrrNfYj2SBs/s1600/IMG_20180413_130031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="1564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GJFXrBHpzpO5HYSQb_4iY5VykfdfNB8Q6ZJtHI_9lSB9myy-tXPS3cQAW7UzX3u6NBfEeFfPCESmspEHUFOKMA8zHCZu_nLaqoiau_3_E0-yNLNyKq0L9jeIuGWF6jCxLzrrNfYj2SBs/s400/IMG_20180413_130031.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A collage of pictures capturing some moments of my -hard but also enjoyable - researching days with my dear "guinea pigs". Massive thanks, without all of you, this wouldn't have been possible!! Note: The pictures are from 2004 and 2010, excepting that one of my hand, from 2011)<br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><br /></b>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">From today (5 July of 2018), you will be able to find and if you wish, to download the <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324731332_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_HB_Strength_and_Endurance_Training_Programs_on_Grip_Endurance_in_Sport_Climbers" target="_blank">preprint version of the paper here</a>.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">LINKS RELATED</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: blue;">- </span></span><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #88bb22;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers?</span></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #38761d;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">-</span><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Why do intermittent dead hangs?</span></a></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br style="color: #555544;" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: blue;">-</span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3LDc9PI_wE" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Dead Hang Training (6 of 6): The Intermittent Dead Hangs Method (Video)</a></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">-<a href="https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_a2d5ba0f4c5441229acd13918443f205.pdf" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Presentation of the article "Comparison of the effects of Three Hangboard Training programs on Maximal Finger strength in rock climbers" at the 3rd IRCRA congress (PDF version)</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="background: rgb(255 , 255 , 255); color: #38761d;">-<span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;"><a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312554382_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_Hangboard_Training_Programs_on_Maximal_Finger_Strength_in_Rock_Climbers" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximal Finger Strength in Rock Climbers (conference paper)</a></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">-<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/07/intermittent-dead-hangs-programs-for.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: none;">Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone</a></span><span style="color: #38761d;">-<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2016/12/complex-timer-training-app-for-climbing.html" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: none;">Complex Timer: A Training app for Climbing</a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">- <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/254368989_The_effects_of_two_maximum_grip_strength_training_methods_using_the_same_effort_duration_and_different_edge_depth_on_grip_endurance_in_elite_climbers" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; color: #669922; font-weight: bold; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers</a></span></span></div>
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-90531140119973927752018-03-14T14:51:00.001+01:002018-05-19T18:42:10.040+02:00Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock climbers?<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Versión <a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/03/suspensiones-maximas-suspensiones.html" target="_blank">en español</a></div>
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The <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank">previous entry</a> was a first look at the Intermittent dead-hangs training method. There I explained why I chose that name over <i>Repeaters </i>and presented the INTRODUCTION to the first of my studies that compared this method to others, focusing on their effect on finger strength and endurance. This particular work was presented at the <a href="https://www.ircra.rocks/colorado-2016" target="_blank">III International Rock Congress set up by the IRCRA that took place in Telluride (USA) in 2016</a>. Today, as promised, we will have a more detailed discussion about each aspect of the study:</div>
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Goals, Methods, Results, Discussion and Practical Applications</div>
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(CONDENSED INFOGRAPHIC at the bottom).</div>
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You have the full text of the article in<a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312554382_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_Hangboard_Training_Programs_on_Maximal_Finger_Strength_in_Rock_Climbers" target="_blank"> this link</a>; so, instead of reproducing it here verbatim I will explain and elaborate every part except for the introduction, that we have already <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank">covered in the previous post</a>. As you might know, the length of a text to be presented in a congress has a limit, just 2 pages in this case.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2JD3fXIS8iTRRiiz5leOJJvlm5L66XnxhRzqBpVO4qDuP2ArGv0_YRCcTGkwMpLVklSEkqqyBlSctaGbLSaB9lE7gL9hI0HWqCNj_MToC-qIF71LaypCjUaoXexaweW0qqLU9X_PVlQn/s1600/20160806%252C+Telluride+congress+IRCRA%252C+maxhangs+vs+repeaters+vs+combination+by+Eva+Lopez.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1301" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2JD3fXIS8iTRRiiz5leOJJvlm5L66XnxhRzqBpVO4qDuP2ArGv0_YRCcTGkwMpLVklSEkqqyBlSctaGbLSaB9lE7gL9hI0HWqCNj_MToC-qIF71LaypCjUaoXexaweW0qqLU9X_PVlQn/s400/20160806%252C+Telluride+congress+IRCRA%252C+maxhangs+vs+repeaters+vs+combination+by+Eva+Lopez.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Beginning the presentation of my study:“Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximal Finger Strength in Rock Climbers” at Telluride (Colorado, USA), III IRCRA congress<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzr4nTZnS69LA1_lsNKwbEMHOau-uPpytkMck_OH5JugKWi3rWq50G8cr5JoSGqBtgnFPNCENyXQ08hSODsYNLyCklI7rdEvhyphenhyphenOiPONJaJOkSYA_ROVfW363q4FeWKNzpvuHHHsOFCHjJr/s400/reallifephotographs%252890%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo: <a href="http://reallifephotographs.com/" target="_blank">Real Life Photographs</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>OBJECTIVES</b></span></div>
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Comparing the effects on maximal grip strength of an 8-week Maximal Dead-hangs training program (MAXHANGS_MAXHANGS) with an Intermittent Dead-hangs one (INTHANGS_INTHANGS) and a third that combined Maximal and Intermittent Dead-hangs (MAXHANGS_INTHANGS).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7o94qwSN2wiUDJpzVKwbIDKeu7jc3EK9gPNcg-PYx5UVyFr0-dQ5cWhznKg2CE0BM_djTQgMknA_Hl0UFQhWN3d_HqKUNFb_n5AWMs6f3-qoTmHvHHKrt7yXY3KRn4bkPnaoZksPiWXc/s1600/L%25C3%25B3pez-Rivera+and+Gonzalez-Badillo+2016%252C+Telluride+IRCRA%252C+Purpose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="620" data-original-width="1195" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7o94qwSN2wiUDJpzVKwbIDKeu7jc3EK9gPNcg-PYx5UVyFr0-dQ5cWhznKg2CE0BM_djTQgMknA_Hl0UFQhWN3d_HqKUNFb_n5AWMs6f3-qoTmHvHHKrt7yXY3KRn4bkPnaoZksPiWXc/s400/L%25C3%25B3pez-Rivera+and+Gonzalez-Badillo+2016%252C+Telluride+IRCRA%252C+Purpose.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>METHODS</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Apparatus</b></span></div>
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The device chosen to perform the training and the tests was the one described in <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/254368989_The_effects_of_two_maximum_grip_strength_training_methods_using_the_same_effort_duration_and_different_edge_depth_on_grip_endurance_in_elite_climbers" target="_blank">López-Rivera and González-Badillo (2012),</a> and consisted on and edge that could be adjusted in depth with a precision of millimeters <a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2010/06/como-fabricar-tu-propio-regletometro.html" target="_blank">(Dimensions 500x250x24 mm; by Eva López and Dafnis Fernández, 2004;</a> Creative Commons Attribution-<a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/" target="_blank">NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</a>).</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Participants</b></span></div>
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After being informed in writing about the objectives, characteristics and risks of the study, 26 rock climbers (23 male, 3 female) with and average redpoint level in the past 6 months of 7c+/8a (min 7a, max 9a), 31.7 years of age and 11.7 years of climbing experience were selected under the following criteria:</div>
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a) more than 2 years of climbing experience.</div>
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b) being active in the sport during the previous 6 months.</div>
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c) not having trained dead-hangs for the past 4 months.</div>
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d) having a redpoint level of at least 7a.</div>
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e) being more than 25 years old.</div>
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f) not suffering from an injury or condition that made inadvisable to follow an intensive physical training.</div>
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The participants signed their consent and were asked not to change their daily habits or engage in any additional physical activity other than the one prescribed for the duration of the intervention.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Procedures</b></span></div>
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<b>Strength Test (ST)</b></div>
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This was the one proposed by the aforementioned authors, which had already validated it by observing the significant positive correlation between the test results and redpoint level (r = 0.51; p < 0.001). The ST took place before starting the intervention, in week 5 after the first four weeks of training and in week 9, after the eighth week of training (see figure below). Data collection was carried out at the Club Vertical climbing facility (Toledo, Spain).</div>
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The training session 48 hours before the test was light, and 24 hours prior to the test no sport activity was allowed. Each participant knew the conditions and rules of the test and had learned the right dead-hangs technique. The successive tests were conducted the same day of the week, at the same time and in similar conditions of temperature and air moisture. The warm-up before the test was a 15-minute standardized routine that included neck, shoulders arms, wrists, fingers, upper body, hip and legs mobilization; a specific part of 3-5 dead-hangs followed, decreasing edge depth (20-15 mm according to sport level) and increasing hanging time (10-20 seconds), with pauses 2-3 minutes long. A 5-minute rest was observed before the test itself, during which weight and height were measured. Then the ST was conducted.</div>
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<b>A 15 mm edge was chosen for ST,</b> using the half-crimp grip, with extended elbows and the maximum added weight that could be held for 5 seconds. <b>The load was determined as follow</b>s: the first try an added weight was chosen that would allow the participant to hang for 15-20 seconds. Then, with 5-minute intervals, 5 to 10 kg were added taking into account the previous try’s perceived intensity. The goal was to reach the maximum load in five tries at most, to prevent the effects of fatigue. When the participant could not keep contact of all fingers with the edge, flexed their arms or modified the angle of the shoulders or the hip with the torso before the 5-second mark, the test was finished and load for the last valid try was recorded.</div>
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<b>Among all possible grip types, the half-crimp was chosen </b>because it is the most used on small holds (Bollen, 1988; Schweizer, 2001, Quaine & Vigouroux, 2004, Watts, 2004), small hold size <b>being characteristic </b>of the hardest sections in difficult routes (Quaine & Vigouroux, 2004, Watts, 2004), <b>along with shape and texture</b>. Lastly, dead-hangs were selected due to several authors considering it a climbing-specific exercise (Vigouroux et col., 2006; Watts et col., 2008), and it being a popular one among climbers.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgiSeFU8VtHjY_m33IpLp5p5_GlE_QGCgCfqmZ8LqrHnc4orVufl4g3dTLZ4zWxj9hDwHXj30nuDmfGnkgsRhXLaQ1SGjWWWKCaQMoOIPil0B5fjxIvfrgh5RMEjUiF4XvBV8EsSDbH2SD/s1600/20160307Michaela+Kiersch+training+on+First+Ascent+Avondales+transgression%252C+Chicago%252C+USA-source+facebook%252C+photo+by+Musenpet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="932" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgiSeFU8VtHjY_m33IpLp5p5_GlE_QGCgCfqmZ8LqrHnc4orVufl4g3dTLZ4zWxj9hDwHXj30nuDmfGnkgsRhXLaQ1SGjWWWKCaQMoOIPil0B5fjxIvfrgh5RMEjUiF4XvBV8EsSDbH2SD/s400/20160307Michaela+Kiersch+training+on+First+Ascent+Avondales+transgression%252C+Chicago%252C+USA-source+facebook%252C+photo+by+Musenpet.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/mmkiersch" target="_blank">Michaela Kiersch</a> training at the First Ascent Avondale climbing gym (Chicago, USA). Picture: <a href="https://www.musenpet.com/" target="_blank">Musenpet</a>. Source: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/mmkiersch" target="_blank">Facebook</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Experimental Design</b></span></div>
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Based on the results of the first ST the participants were randomly assigned to one of three training groups using the ABCCBA method:</div>
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<b>1- MaxHangs_MaxHangs:</b> this group did in the first four weeks of training 3 to 5 sets of 10-second dead-hangs on an 18-mm edge with added weight (named as MAW = maximal added weight at the infographic at the bottom). The weight should allow the athlete to hang for 13 seconds, which implies a 3-second margin (effort level = 3; term proposed by González-Badillo & Gorostiaga in 1993). The pause between sets was 3 minutes. During the next 4 weeks, the progression in number of sets, hanging time, effort margin and pause were the same; the difference was that no added weight was used: the load was adjusted by choosing the smallest (less deep) edge (named as MED = Minimal edge, at the infographic at the bottom) that would allow to hang for 13 seconds.</div>
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<b>Warming-up was specific</b> to these methods, doing 3-4 sets with increasing added weight or decreasing edge depth (50-90% of previous session’s load). There was a need to determine the load for the first set of the first day of training: the climber would estimate an added weight or edge depth that would permit a 13-second repetition. If this repetition was perceived as too difficult or too easy for the session, some weight (2-5 kg depending on body weight) or edge depth (1-2 mm) was added or subtracted to keep the load constant. This procedure was iterated in each set. For context, the strongest athlete used 55 kg / 5 mm, the less strong 5kg / 10 mm.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmHwKU6UVOdXe18Gv1502DtkEXp2O174VkWzMRWUJKfqhAmP2aEIMQ0GXxrha4M7RyO7s7JWALz-PGjiKoDqm7zjPJy_ocwPYi8m-ME4sfe8rld6MWgsDxiBKg7dPhfMY2GDFxcThKFv33/s1600/reallifephotographs%252889%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmHwKU6UVOdXe18Gv1502DtkEXp2O174VkWzMRWUJKfqhAmP2aEIMQ0GXxrha4M7RyO7s7JWALz-PGjiKoDqm7zjPJy_ocwPYi8m-ME4sfe8rld6MWgsDxiBKg7dPhfMY2GDFxcThKFv33/s400/reallifephotographs%252889%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Presenting at Telluride. Thanks to Kaycee Joubert, from <a href="http://reallifephotographs.com/" target="_blank">Real Life Photographs</a> for taking this picture and to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/shaunacoxsey/" target="_blank">Shauna Coxsey</a> por giving permission to use hers!<br />
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<b>2- IntHangs_IntHangs: </b>the Intermittent method in the first 4 weeks consisted of 3-5 sets of 4 repetitions, each repetition being a 10-second dead-hang; the pause was 5 seconds between repetitions and 1 minute between sets. No added weight was used, the load was managed by choosing the smallest edge (MED) that would allow to complete all the prescribed volume and reach failure or close to failure in the last repetition of the last set. The second 4-week segment the number of repetitions per set went from 4 to 5.</div>
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<b>For this method a different warming-up procedure was followed:</b> 4-5 10-second sets, with a 5-second pause and decreasing edge size; the edge for the first set should have allowed the climber to hang for one minute, which amounted to 5-10 mm deeper than the training edge from the last session. For the first set of the first training session the initial training edge was deep enough to hang for up to 30 seconds.</div>
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<b>Load training management</b> was analogue to the MaxHang method: if the participant estimated that the current edge was going to be too easy or too hard to complete the volume close to failure, he or she would change to a smaller or bigger one. For reference, the smallest edge used with this method was 8 mm, the deepest, 22 mm.</div>
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<b>3- MaxHangs_IntHangs:</b> This group combined both methods. The first 4 weeks they trained with added weight like group 1 (MAW); the following 4 weeks, 3 to 5 sets of 4 repetitions of 10-second dead-hangs with the same parameters as group 2. The intensity was adjusted as has already been described.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdVbwirkou65Oz6YQy9SEw3whYMp7Rg4vAr-5RTlspYt-BSXKxoWk0dI28Lm8X8D5hDK8rIJt3t5CpUMFgQmoz_S7dLOYB5bY7UBw0CYFAEkFcT5Mz_kVIU9YGu0t0lsv8_9UB2li9Y8/s1600/Lopez-Rivera+and+Gonzalez-Badillo+2016%252C+Telluride+IRCRA+congress%252C+experimental+design.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="851" data-original-width="1491" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdVbwirkou65Oz6YQy9SEw3whYMp7Rg4vAr-5RTlspYt-BSXKxoWk0dI28Lm8X8D5hDK8rIJt3t5CpUMFgQmoz_S7dLOYB5bY7UBw0CYFAEkFcT5Mz_kVIU9YGu0t0lsv8_9UB2li9Y8/s400/Lopez-Rivera+and+Gonzalez-Badillo+2016%252C+Telluride+IRCRA+congress%252C+experimental+design.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<b>Across all methods the hanging time was 10 seconds, the number of sets 3 to 5. Every athlete had to manage the training load dynamically</b> throughout the session by choosing a different added weight or edge depth to keep the relative intensity constant.</div>
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<b>This said, there was a difference in total volume among methods, because MaxHangs amounted to 30 to 50 seconds per workout while total hanging time in IntHangs was 120 to 250 seconds.</b><br />
Furthermore, <b>the Max methods avoided failure by prescribing a 3-second margin, while IntHangs actively aimed for failure at the end.</b></div>
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<b>The rationale behind </b>the 10-second hanging duration, and for the 10 to 5 work/pause ratio respectively can be found <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" target="_blank">in the previous blog post</a>.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Training Program</b></span></div>
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<b>Dead-hang programs</b></div>
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The set/reps configuration, hanging time and pause duration for each group can be found in this figure:</div>
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<b>Physical-technical training</b></div>
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It is worth noting that <b>the athletes did not reduce their workout to dead-hangs only; these were instead integrated into a weekly plan as it would be the case in real life</b>. Therefore, there were conditioning and climbing contents carried out in the climbing gym. The whole of the training schedule was an 8-week standardized cycle (ATR-model, block periodization approach; edited on 20 March 2018), adapted to each person, that included all contents. This plan was built and supervised by Eva López.</div>
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<b>Dead-hang workouts were done on</b> Mondays and Wednesdays, after the mentioned standard warm-up. A 15-minute recovery would follow and then the other contents for the day according to the mesocycle: physical conditioning like maximal and sub-maximal pull-ups, core; as well as extensive or intensive interval, repetition or projecting methods on boulders and routes, no name but a few.</div>
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Gym work happened Monday to Thursday, the weekend was devoted to rock climbing. The participants were instructed to do 1-2 routes for warming-up and 1-2 close to their maximum level. All of this was checked via daily feedback shared by the climbers.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBh_YE51LGuc4ZSLcH2Z70CxUweVWB0YXb7qwfaJiaLwxse4WTQLmwxxLn5boRh2tJH-L98O1AViuk1Zp1n2a35XC4p3xwVKATOHUXuhkdD2iCmeRzWIxk8PPGcLoY_kP7zLk1aBEvh7Qe/s1600/2014-00-Eva+Lopez+training+at+her+climbing+gym%252C+Toledo%252C+photo+by+Javipec.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="782" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBh_YE51LGuc4ZSLcH2Z70CxUweVWB0YXb7qwfaJiaLwxse4WTQLmwxxLn5boRh2tJH-L98O1AViuk1Zp1n2a35XC4p3xwVKATOHUXuhkdD2iCmeRzWIxk8PPGcLoY_kP7zLk1aBEvh7Qe/s400/2014-00-Eva+Lopez+training+at+her+climbing+gym%252C+Toledo%252C+photo+by+Javipec.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Eva López. Club Vertical climbing facility (Toledo). Photo: <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>STATISTICAL ANALYSIS</b></span></div>
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Descriptive statistics (averages, standard deviations) were obtained for age, years of training, height, weight, sport level in the last 6 months and ST results. A repeated measures ANOVA with Bonferroni correction was applied to assess the intra- and inter-group differences in strength. Pearson’s correlation was computed to look at the relations between variables as well as the effect size (ES) to check for intra-group changes (Hedges & Olkin, 1985). An ES < 0.25 was defined as moderate and > 1 as big in line with the scale proposed by Rhea (2004) for strength training interventions with highly trained athletes.</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">RESULTS</span></b></div>
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The differences among groups in ST were not significant, either before and after 4 and 8 weeks of training. <b>However, it is worth noting the 28% of improvement in ST after 8 weeks experienced by the MaxHang_MaxHang group, as well as that the strength gains only reached statistical significance in this group and not in the others</b>; and the better outcome after 4 weeks of the groups that did MaxHangs with added weight (15% and 20%) in contrast with the IntHangs group (4.6%).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYizRL0NUGMV4kdJ-LfDAjUPXVdpS-PDaub7rSXW6xxmFIIDAT1HaFvKbyB2o_5fTe0Ps7pZU2BhjSg74D-mSfs0r8AbadN5Z-aKzTLLaAMJAY2N-lfCa3YesGkVZpQO446Xri1RJ-xg/s1600/Lopez-Rivera+y+Gonzalez+Badillo+2016+Telluride%252C+results.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1028" data-original-width="1459" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYizRL0NUGMV4kdJ-LfDAjUPXVdpS-PDaub7rSXW6xxmFIIDAT1HaFvKbyB2o_5fTe0Ps7pZU2BhjSg74D-mSfs0r8AbadN5Z-aKzTLLaAMJAY2N-lfCa3YesGkVZpQO446Xri1RJ-xg/s400/Lopez-Rivera+y+Gonzalez+Badillo+2016+Telluride%252C+results.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>The second interesting result was</b> the relatively small change in strength by IntHangs_IntHangs after 4 weeks (4.6%) that tripled at the end of the 8th week (13.9%), a result comparable with what MaxHangs achieved in the first 4 weeks.</div>
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<b>Finally, the group that changed from MaxHangs to IntHangs in the 5th week</b> lost almost 7% of the gains developed during the MaxHangs mesocycle.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCTWc4ZNlxBz3Zfw5ezSuvKl84NzS7RMZzzqqTi30KfCpshkJlyU5PCPm210dyrBibVDis_1PabattNYrK73BeJCLGihNsygKQ2CoxBnMLMXS3zZtsrZJsrQkf35fvEdkvQZxPQSnYkTg/s1600/Lopez-Rivera+and+Gonzalez+Badillo+2016+Telluride%252C+table+of+results.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="777" data-original-width="1600" height="193" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCTWc4ZNlxBz3Zfw5ezSuvKl84NzS7RMZzzqqTi30KfCpshkJlyU5PCPm210dyrBibVDis_1PabattNYrK73BeJCLGihNsygKQ2CoxBnMLMXS3zZtsrZJsrQkf35fvEdkvQZxPQSnYkTg/s400/Lopez-Rivera+and+Gonzalez+Badillo+2016+Telluride%252C+table+of+results.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Results by group in the strength test (maximal added weight hold for 5 seconds off a 15 mm edge, half-crimp grip) after 4 and 8 weeks of training. Source: <a href="http://www.researchgate.net/profile/Eva_Lopez-Rivera">www.researchgate.net/profile/Eva_Lopez-Rivera</a></td></tr>
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<b style="font-size: x-large;">DISCUSSION</b></div>
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To the extent of our knowledge this is the first work to compare the effects on grip strength of a MaxHangs program, an IntHangs program and a combination of both in experienced sport climbers (7c+/8a average level, 12 years of experience). The most effective program after 4 and 8 weeks of training was MaxHangs_MaxHangs, which was also the only one to show significant change in ST3 (p < 0.05).</div>
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<b>CHANGES AFTER 4 WEEKS</b></div>
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The early gains yielded by MaxHangs after 4 weeks with added weight <b>can be attributed to neural changes </b>(Hakkinen & Komi, 1985a; Hakkinen et col., 1998; Sale et col., 1998) and are comparable to the 15-18% observed after 4 to 6 weeks of a similar isometric training (3 to 10-second sets, >80% MVC, complete recovery) by Ikai & Fukunaga (1970), Cannon & Cafarelli (1987) and Davies et col. (1988) with untrained subjects. Also in this line Judge et col. (2003) reported maximal isometric force going up by 15% in throwers after gradually increasing volume and intensity during a 16-week period, in this case through dynamic exercises.</div>
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<b>We are not aware of other studies that assessed the effects of a static training with loads on trained athletes, as is the case of this one</b>. On the other hand there are s<b>everal examples of dynamic exercises producing strength improvements in athletes by the use of loads. </b>Hickson et col. (1988) found a 30% significant change in 1 RM in cyclists that underwent a 10-week cycle doing 3x5 RM strength exercises. The fact that this figure is higher than the one registered by us could be explained by the longer duration of the intervention, or by the participants lacking experience with lower body strength training while having a well-developed specific endurance; the authors do not mention whether this is the case or not.</div>
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<b>The only work we have found where a 4 week dead-hangs program is carried out,</b> by Medernach et al. (2015), included a group of boulderers who significantly improved their time to fatigue with the maximum added weight corresponding to an initial hanging test for 6 seconds off a 19 mm edge, by contrast with the group that only did bouldering, with significant but more modest gains (12.5± 2.5 seconds, 8.6 ± 2.0 seconds respectively). <b>However, these results can’t be compared with ours, having a different test and intervention design, </b>mainly because instead of setting different dead-<b>hangs methods side to side it compared a control group with another that did 1 session of MaxHangs and 2 of IntHangs each week; additionally, the dead-hangs programs included pull-ups and lock-offs.</b></div>
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<b>Effects of intermittent dead-hangs after 4 weeks</b></div>
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The IntHangs group <b>improved their strength just 4.6% at ST2</b>. One reason <b>can be not using added weight, or that the intensity was lower than in the other groups</b>; these factors have been shown to be related with maximal strength going up in experienced athletes like the ones in this study (Hakkinen, 1994; Tan, 1999; Fry, 2004; Peterson, Rhea & Alvar, 2005). <b>The lower intensity results from the incomplete character of the recovery pauses </b>(5 seconds between repetitions, 1 minute between sets) as well as from the higher resulting TUT (time under tension) (Rhea et col., 2003; Watts et col., 2004; Mirzaei et col. 2008), that make it unfeasible to maintain a high absolute load during the session. Our estimate is that the relative intensity was 70-80%, corresponding to 30 seconds of maximal hanging time, compared to the 90% which could be associated to the 13 seconds of MaxHangs.</div>
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<b>CHANGES AFTER 8 WEEKS</b></div>
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The MaxHang group confirmed the trend after the first training phase and ended up ahead of the others in ST3, after 8 weeks of training (28% up, compared to 13.9% IntHangs_IntHangs and 13.4% MaxHangs_IntHangs). Added weight probably played a role in this respect, causing greater muscle activation and recruitment of motor units (Hakkinen et col., 1985a and 1985b; Sale, 1988; Harris, 2000), which in turn made possible to use smaller edges during the last four weeks resulting in sustained strength gains.</div>
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This 28% change in 8 weeks is lower than the 35% improvement in MVC obtained by Jones & Rutherford (1987) with isometric training, doing 4 x 6 repetitions at 80% of MVC, 4 seconds per repetition and 2 seconds between repetitions for 12 weeks. Rich & Cafarelli (2002) registered also a notable 35% change in MVC in 8 weeks doing 5 x10 maximal contractions, 3 to 5 seconds in duration each. These figures could be attributed to the workouts being prescribed to persons lacking strength training experience, where greater development is to be expected.</div>
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<b>As far as we know there are no studies looking at experienced athletes doing static training for more than 4 weeks</b>. However, gains similar to the ones shown in this study, 20 to 30%, have been reported in dynamic tests with participants familiar with strength training (Hakkinen et col., 1985b), trained cyclists (Rønnestad et col., 2010) or competitive swimmers (Tanaka et col., 1993) who performed dynamic training, 1 to 10 RM for 10 weeks.</div>
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<b>The better outcome in strength of the group that worked their strength first with added weight and then without it (MaxHang_MaxHang)</b> compared to the other two groups is consistent with the findings of our previous study (López-Rivera & González-Badillo, 2012), where this sequence of exercises also showed a greater effect on strength than the opposite, starting with the minimal edge depth exercise and following with added weight. It is worth noting that this earlier work yielded a 1.34% improvement in strength (for 28% of the current one),<b> a difference which may result from the disparity in level between samples</b> (8a average, 7a min., 9a max. 11.1 years of practice versus 8a+/b average, 8a min., 8c+ max and 16 years of experience in the earlier work). As suggested by authors like Hakkinen et col. (1987) or Peterson, Rhea & Alvar (2004), the expected change after a given training gets smaller as sport level and experience go up. Stronger athletes familiar with strength training show a smaller adaptive response and need a higher dose of strength training (Hakkinen et col., 1987).</div>
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<b>THE EFFECTS OF THE INTERMITTENT HANGS METHOD</b></div>
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The second noteworthy result concerns group 2, <b>which used a method generally deemed to promote strength-endurance</b>. Strength going up 4.6% in ST2 did not come as a surprise, but then they achieved a 13.9% change from ST1 to ST3).</div>
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<b>The literature offers a possible cause </b>for this good outcome after 8 weeks; doing 4-5 repetitions per set, 10 seconds each repetition amounts to a long TUT; in addition the intensity is sub-maximal and the pause incomplete (5 seconds between repetitions and 1 minute between sets).<b> These characteristics have been hypothesized as promoters of strength by hypertrophy</b>, mainly by adding sarcomeres in parallel rather in series (Kraemer et col., 1990; Hakkinen, 1994; Behm, 1995; Robinson et col., 1995; Fleck & Kraemer, 1997; Hoffman et col., 2003; Goto et col., 2005; Toito & Boutellier, 2006; Ratamess et col., 2007, Willardson, 2007; Miranda et col., 2009) caused by high lactate-induced metabolic stress, hormonal stress, muscle damage and, most importantly, by mechanical tension associated to moderate to high-load training (Hakinnen et col., 1994; Goto et col., 2005; Schoenfeld, 2012), <b>effect becoming</b> <b>more evident after 6-8 weeks of training unlike in the case of</b> the neural adaptations characteristic of the first weeks of training (Hakkinen & Komi, 1985a; Hakkinen et col., 1998; Sale et col., 1998).</div>
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The 13.9 difference in strength after 8 weeks of doing 3 - 5 x 4 - 5 x10” :5”/1’ are below the 33% change in MVC after 8 weeks of electrostimulation of the first dorsal interossei of the hand in the form of 4 sets of ten 10-second repetitions with 20 seconds of pause between repetitions and 2 minutes between sets, by Davies et col. (1988). Jones & Rutherford (1987) also recorded a 35% increase in MVC when doing 4 x 6 isometric contractions at 80% MVC, each repetition 4 seconds long, 2-second pauses between repetitions for 12 weeks. Another result that yielded higher figures than ours is Schott et col. (1983), after a 5-week intervention where the participants performed 10 sets of 3-second isometric contractions, with pauses of 2”/1’, and ended up gaining 31%. Lastly, McDonagh et col. (1983) observed a 20% MVC improvement when doing 30 to 50, 3 – 5 seconds long isometric contractions of the elbow flexors, with a recovery duration of 20 seconds, for 5 weeks. <b>All these works used a variety of protocols that differ with ours, but they have in common the participation of persons who lacked experience in strength training, and this may explain part of the differences in outcome.</b> There is one study where an isometric training program was prescribed to trained athletes: Gondin et col. (2005) looked at the effects of 32 18-minute sessions of 40 isometric contractions via electrostimulation of the knee extensors, the change amounting to 6% and 27% after 4 and 8 weeks respectively. While the first 4 weeks the numbers of this study and ours are comparable, the gap widens at the end of the 8th week, probably due to the mentioned work involving a longer TUT than the IntHangs exercise (25 10-second contractions at most); this variable has been advanced as a factor affecting in the magnitude of hypertrophy by some authors (Sale et col., 1985 [in Wemborg et col., 2007]) and its associated strength gains.</div>
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<b>EFFECTS OF THE COMBINATION OF 4 WEEKS OF MAXIMAL DEAD-HANGS AND 4 WEEKS OF INTERMITTENT DEAD-HANGS</b></div>
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<b>We want to underline a last interesting result, the 6% loss in strength by the MaxHangs_IntHangs group (group 3) from the 5th to the 8th week after the positive change observed in the first 4 weeks with added weight.</b> Changing the stimulus to a lighter one could be behind this downturn. Similarly, Rhea et col. (2003) observed an effect size (ES) of negative 0.31 in 1 RM after increasing the number of repetitions every five weeks from 15RM to 20RM and 25RM, and thus diminishing the intensity, compared to a control group where the intensity went up, from 25RM to 20RM and 15RM</div>
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On the other hand, a<b> training method that involves incomplete recovery on small edges is more suitable for improving strength-endurance </b>and is liable to provoke a level of fatigue after 4 weeks that the climbers can’t recover from when the time for ST3 comes, <b>not to mention the implications that can have on the effects of the IntHangs, the fact that this group obtained great strength improvements</b> in ST2. <span style="font-family: inherit;">Presumably, being able to train with this tiring method using smaller edges could provoke greater fatigue due to a greater muscle activation (Ahtiainen & Häkkinen, 2009) (Also, the smaller the hold is, the more mechanical tension is needed to grip it
effectively, and the more intense -physical and psychological- the resulting effort is).</span> As Anderson & Kearney (1982) suggest, training-induced fatigue can have different effects depending on the way it is produced. In their work, the participants who did a higher volume (100-150 RM) experienced greater homeostatic perturbations in the muscle.</div>
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Lastly we have to keep in mind that <b>individual characteristics like muscle fiber composition</b> (Thorstensson & Karlsson, 1976; Willardson, 2006) or <b>genetic profile </b>(Ginszt et al., 2018) that can lead to a greater fatigability among other consequences, can have a non-trivial effect on training response (as hinted by the large standard deviation recorded in this group) when the sample size is as small as ours and therefore a big impact on final results.</div>
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<b>Taking all this into account </b>we would suggest carrying out a follow-up study that extended the program by doing 8 additional weeks of IntHangs.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>CONCLUSION AND PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS</b></span></div>
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<b>Summing up, the group that displayed greater strength gains was the one that did 8 weeks of MaxHangs</b>. The IntHangs_IntHangs group experienced little change in the first four weeks but strength went up noticeable after the last four, probably because there was time for hypertrophy to set in. Last, it seems that 4 weeks of MaxHangs and 4 weeks of IntHangs would not be advisable in terms of strength outcome, presumably due to 4 weeks being too short a duration for the second method.</div>
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The overall results are indicative that MaxHangs are more suited to develop grip strength in climbing, specially in the short and medium term. Nevertheless, with the sights set on the long-term outcome of trained athletes, we are in a position to suggest that sequentially prescribing MaxHangs and IntHangs methods could be a way to avoid plateauing and get greater changes in strength because the neural development caused by the high loads of MaxHangs would add up to the hypertrophy effects of IntHangs.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Who said people of science are boring? Photo: <a href="http://reallifephotographs.com/" target="_blank">Real Life Photographs</a></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUIDTfkqsMG8Wyx_NHJ8UscobPh2Sdy8ikLvQGrzyW2J9ylBSSwSHf54FoqFPlrz-18renmp1I6UwdVTprbW704s7i8ncOIWtmrCeW9G71B1ZZqKppwhwixFuG0OG3BEayyUcUNn3ifGj/s1600/reallifephotographs%2528170%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="1600" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUIDTfkqsMG8Wyx_NHJ8UscobPh2Sdy8ikLvQGrzyW2J9ylBSSwSHf54FoqFPlrz-18renmp1I6UwdVTprbW704s7i8ncOIWtmrCeW9G71B1ZZqKppwhwixFuG0OG3BEayyUcUNn3ifGj/s400/reallifephotographs%2528170%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">See you at <a href="https://www.ircra.rocks/copy-of-colorado-2016-details" target="_blank">Chamonix 2018</a>? Picture: <a href="http://reallifephotographs.com/" target="_blank">Real Life Photograph</a>s</span></td></tr>
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<b>AND HERE ENDS THE PRESENTATION OF THIS RESEARCH ARTICLE…</b></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>… but don’t leave before this appeal to caution.</b> Please, remember that a single work must not be taken as definitive proof, and that an intervention evaluated through a scientific study can’t be generalized to every kind and level of climbing or repeated in your planning time and again. <b>Training prescription should be always specific to individual goals and abilities </b>(this last sentence was added on 21 March 2018). Furthermore, reading just an abstract and extrapolate it, as well as jumping directly to the conclusions here or the infographic below keeps you from learning the details, <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-align: justify;">😝 </span>where more often than not resides the nuance that we need to relativize and actually learn). No matter how effective a method is shown to be for a group of people at certain moment in time (be it by your own experience or a controlled, standardized experiment), <b>when dealing with trained athletes the evidence says that periodization</b> (changing parameters, like volume and intensity, according to a previously defined schedule, like the weekly variation in number of sets in this work) and method sequentiation are superior to the alternative, performing the same routine indefinitely (Kraemer et al., 2000; Rhea & Alderman, 2004; Grgic et al., 2017). A quick example would be changing the hanging (exertion) time, or the effort margin in the MaxHangs, as well as the recovery pauses or the hanging time of IntHangs every four weeks…</blockquote>
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I’m afraid we have to leave this here, but I encourage you to accompany me in this exploration, and in the next entry we will look at some, more specific training plans that can be effective.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>THE CONDENSED INFOGRAPHIC</b></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPRBeU0vLxOxVIWG-g-cASEvy5eh0hC4rE_2KuhghmvkwFYAF2pm08CO0eZ5_JfvkTPt6FD5f6KiRnSA4Ab0tPt61k9LyzjRMaYOhg0shoUc031G4K5rrD9A5w5bZhI485lJCwgVgNGY/s1600/20180830%252C+eva+lopez+blog%252C+intermittent+2%252C+maxhangs+vs+inthangs+vs+combination_EN.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZPRBeU0vLxOxVIWG-g-cASEvy5eh0hC4rE_2KuhghmvkwFYAF2pm08CO0eZ5_JfvkTPt6FD5f6KiRnSA4Ab0tPt61k9LyzjRMaYOhg0shoUc031G4K5rrD9A5w5bZhI485lJCwgVgNGY/s400/20180830%252C+eva+lopez+blog%252C+intermittent+2%252C+maxhangs+vs+inthangs+vs+combination_EN.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MAW = Maximal Added Weight; MED = Minimal edge.<br />
<b>Clic to enlarge</b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>RELATED LINKS</b></span></div>
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<div style="background-color: white; margin: 5px 0px 0px; padding: 0px;">
<span style="background: transparent; color: #38761d; font-family: inherit; font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">-<span style="background: transparent;"><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/08/why-do-intermittent-dead-hangs.html" style="background: transparent; text-decoration-line: none;">Why do intermittent dead hangs?</a></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: blue;">-</span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3LDc9PI_wE" target="_blank">Dead Hang Training (6 of 6): The Intermittent Dead Hangs Method (Video)</a></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: inherit;">-<span style="color: #38761d;"><a href="https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/441095_a2d5ba0f4c5441229acd13918443f205.pdf" target="_blank">Presentation of the article "Comparison of the effects of Three Hangboard Training programs on Maximal Finger strength in rock climbers" at the 3rd IRCRA congress (PDF version)</a></span></span><br />
<span style="background: rgb(255 , 255 , 255); color: #38761d; font-family: inherit;">-<span style="background: rgb(255 , 255 , 255);"><a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312554382_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_Hangboard_Training_Programs_on_Maximal_Finger_Strength_in_Rock_Climbers" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255);" target="_blank">Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximal Finger Strength in Rock Climbers (conference paper)</a></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: inherit;">-<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "tahoma" , "trebuchet ms" , "lucida" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/07/intermittent-dead-hangs-programs-for.html">Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone</a></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: inherit;">-<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2016/12/complex-timer-training-app-for-climbing.html">Complex Timer: A Training app for Climbing</a></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">- <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/254368989_The_effects_of_two_maximum_grip_strength_training_methods_using_the_same_effort_duration_and_different_edge_depth_on_grip_endurance_in_elite_climbers" target="_blank">The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and differ</a></span><br />
<span style="background: transparent; color: blue; font-family: inherit;">- <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/04/abstract-of-article-Maxhangs-vs-inthangs-vs-acombination-on-gripendurance.html" style="background: transparent;">Abstract of the article "Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers"</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>REFERENCES</b></span></div>
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<ul style="text-align: justify;">
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Ahtiainen, J.P. y Häkkinen, K. (2009) </b>Strength athletes are capable to produce greater muscle activation and neural fatigue during high-intensity resistance exercise than nonathletes. Journal of Strength & Conditional Research 23(4): 1129-1134.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Anderson, T., and Kearney, J.T. (1982).</b> Effects of three resistance training programs on muscular strength and absolute and relative endurance. Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 53(1), 1-7.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Bollen, S.R. (1988). </b>Soft tissue injury in extreme rock climbers. British journal of sports medicine, 22(4), 145-147.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>López-Rivera, E., and González-Badillo, J.J. (2016).</b> Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximal Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. In Northern Michigan University (Ed.), 3rd International Rock Climbing Research Congress, Telluride, USA 5th-7th August 2016. Telluride (Colorado, USA): IRCRA.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>McDonagh, M.J.N.; Hayward, C.M. y Davies, C.T.M. (1983). </b>Isometric training in human elbow flexor muscles. The Journal of Bone and Joint Surgery. 65, 3:355-358.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Medernach, J.P.J., Klein Der, H., and Tzerich, H.H.H.L.(2015).</b> Fingerboard in competitive bouldering: training effects on grip strength and endurance. J Strength Cond Res 29: 2286–2295.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Morán‑navarro, R., Pérez, C.E., Mora‑rodríguez, R., De La Cruz‑sánchez, E., González‑Badillo, J.J., Sánchez‑medina, L., Pallarés, J.G. (2017). </b>Time course of recovery following resistance training leading or not to failure. Eur J Appl Physiol. doi:</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"> </span>10.1007/s00421-017-3725-7.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Peterson, M.D., Rhea, M.R. <b>and </b>Alvar, B.A. (2004).</b> Maximizing strength development in athletes: a meta-analysis to determine the dose-response relationship. The Journal of Strength &amp; Conditioning Research, 18(2), 377-382.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Quaine F. <b>and </b>Vigouroux L. (2004). </b>Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips. International Journal Sports Medicine 25: 634-637.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Rhea, M.E., Alvar, B.A., Burkett, L.N. <b>and </b>Ball, S.D. (2003).</b> A meta-analysis to determine the dose response for strength development. Medicine &amp; Science in Sports &amp; Exercise 35(3)456-464.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Rich, C. <b>and </b>Cafarelli, E. (2000)</b>. Submaximal motor unit firing rates after 8 weeks of isometric resistance training. Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise, 32, 190-196.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Rønnestad, B. R., Hansen, E.A., <b>and </b> Raastad, T. (2010).</b> Effect of heavy strength training on thigh muscle cross-sectional area, performance determinants, and performance in well-trained cyclists. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 108(5), 965-975.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Schoenfeld, B.J. (2012). </b>Does exercise-induced muscle damage play a role in skeletal muscle hypertrophy?. The Journal of Strength &amp; Conditioning Research, 26(5), 1441-1453.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Schott, J., McCully, K., Rutherford, O. M. (1995). </b>The role of metabolites in strength training. European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology, 71(4):337-341.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Schweizer, A. (2001). </b>Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers. Journal of Biomechanical 34:217-223.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Tan, B. (1999).</b> Manipulating resistance training program variables to optimize maximum strength in men: a review. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 13, 289-304.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Tanaka, H., Costill, D. L., Thomas, R., Fink, W. J. and Widrick, J. J. (1993). </b>Dry-land resistance training for competitive swimming. Medicine &amp; Science in Sports &amp; Exercise 25(8): 952-959.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Thorstensson, A. and Karlsson, J. (1976). </b>Fatigability and fiber composition of human skeletal muscle. Acta Physiol. Scand. 98: 318–322.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Toigo, M. and Boutellier, U. (2006).</b> New fundamental resistance exercise determinants of molecular and cellular muscle adaptations. Eur J Appl Physiol 97: 643–663.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Vigouroux, L. <b>and Q</b>uaine, F. (2006).</b> Fingertip force and electromyography of finger flexor muscles during a prolonged intermittent exercise in elite climbers and sedentary individuals. Journal of Sports Sciences, 24(2), 181-186</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Watts, P.B. (2004). </b>Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology 91: 361-372.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Watts, P. B., Jensen, R.L., Agena, S.M., Majchrzak, J.A., Schellinger, R.A., <b>and </b>Wubbels, C. S. (2008).</b> Changes in EMG and finger force with repeated hangs from the hands in rock climbers. International Journal of Exercise Science, 1(2), 62-70.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Wernbom, M., Augustsson, J. <b>and </b>Thomé, R. (2007).</b> The influence of frequency, intensity, volume and mode of strength training on whole muscle cross-sectional area in humans. Sports Medicine; 37 (3): 225-264.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Willardson, J.M. (2006).</b> A brief review: factors affecting the length of the rest interval between resistance exercise sets. J Strength Cond Res 20: 978–984.</span></li>
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-49564266495514886022018-03-07T20:54:00.000+01:002018-03-07T20:59:01.155+01:00International Women's Strike<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ztVC6EwzQTIEXOJFJ4xYuBqsESsspEiJNg4NqBHggcDQiC7IKmDJmtl4p2bjvhdihPVmzzsYHUWWQvXIT80aUxNo9Sol1R0dbl7Nh_o5IzR8NMTwdgTK17EtNfDhn59Tu8KjT6RTCJI/s1600/feminist+strike.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="851" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ztVC6EwzQTIEXOJFJ4xYuBqsESsspEiJNg4NqBHggcDQiC7IKmDJmtl4p2bjvhdihPVmzzsYHUWWQvXIT80aUxNo9Sol1R0dbl7Nh_o5IzR8NMTwdgTK17EtNfDhn59Tu8KjT6RTCJI/s400/feminist+strike.jpg" width="400" /></a>Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-56482260911049846602017-08-10T10:35:00.000+02:002018-05-23T20:21:34.216+02:00Why do intermittent dead hangs?<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Versión<a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.cl/2017/08/english-version-coming-soon-tal-como.html" target="_blank"> en español</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.cl/2017/07/intermittent-dead-hangs-programs-for.html" target="_blank">As promised</a>, here you have the first entry in this new intermittent dead hangs series. It will serve as an introduction before delving into my research. Even though my last work was presented at the 3rd <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312554382_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_Hangboard_Training_Programs_on_Maximal_Finger_Strength_in_Rock_Climbers" target="_blank">Rock Climbing Research Congress </a>in 2016 (Telluride, USA), all the experimental work this and other research</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span>(a total of 6 different studies) <span style="font-family: inherit;">is based on was performed in 2004 and 2010</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">, and compiled into my 2014 thesis. A long time has passed since, so an in-depth discussion of the topic was long due. My apologies for not having done this earlier. We’ll start with some clarifications:</span></span></div>
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a) why this name instead of “repeaters”, the most used name in the English-speaking world, and</div>
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b) why put forward this method and compare its effects on strength and endurance with those obtained through maximum strength dead-hangs, both weighted and unweighted.</div>
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By answering these you will not only learn why the research works and the training programs are designed the way they are, but perhaps you’ll also enjoy the process of understanding and even performing them. There’s nothing better than choosing a program and tailoring or discarding it based on your knowledge of how it works, which in turn allows you to predict what effects will it have on you or your trainees according to your respective goals.</div>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">"<i>What, why, when, how, where and who</i> are questions that are continually asked in medicine. Knowing the answers to them is not always easy or even possible. Understanding them can be even more difficult. Attempting to know and understand the answers, however, is the goal of allied health professionals.<i> Knowing and understanding these whats, whys, whens, hows, wheres, and whos </i>of allied health define the differences between technicians and professionals." (Houglum, Peggy A., 2005. Therapeutic Exercise for MusculoSkeletal Injuries, 2nd Edition. Human Kinetics)</span></blockquote>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzTx98h6MluE6CDvJAB6GVLOpf5LULCod2mWyRdnF5yrafxI133WPUXljPQbZSlDMwpgD3DiZ7ZN4AYpZ1SKFQJfyyvio8V7tDqyaRGkr6jcjkYy-Z6tgFEgC7djeiipOI4mo5S25Q4N4/s1600/Mie+Kastet%252C+bouldering%252C+open+hand+grip%252C+photo+by+Jon+Solberg+H%25C3%25B8yland.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; white-space: normal;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzTx98h6MluE6CDvJAB6GVLOpf5LULCod2mWyRdnF5yrafxI133WPUXljPQbZSlDMwpgD3DiZ7ZN4AYpZ1SKFQJfyyvio8V7tDqyaRGkr6jcjkYy-Z6tgFEgC7djeiipOI4mo5S25Q4N4/s400/Mie+Kastet%252C+bouldering%252C+open+hand+grip%252C+photo+by+Jon+Solberg+H%25C3%25B8yland.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: "liberation" serif; font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/miekast/" target="_blank">Mie Kastet</a> trying hard</span></span><span style="font-size: x-small; white-space: pre-wrap;"> in </span><span style="font-size: x-small; white-space: pre-wrap;">Misje, Hordaland (Norway)</span><span style="font-size: x-small; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Photo: </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/kraftfabrikken/" style="font-size: small; white-space: pre-wrap;" target="_blank">Jon Solberg Høyland</a><span style="font-size: x-small; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Thanks Mie and Jon for the pic!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>
Why call them Intermittent Dead Hangs instead of ‘Repeaters’?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-c010eb14-c959-5074-cde1-2a9662d18459">
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<span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">In truth, when I started the experimental design of my studies I did not know this really descriptive English term: ‘Repeaters’. A bit of research shows that, as far as I have been able to go back in time, the first author to put this term on paper was none other than the great pioneer Eric Hörst in his 1997 “How to climb 5.12”.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Initially I wasn’t aware of that terminology and of other proposals regarding different work/rest ratios and number of sets; then I started learning more about the most popular ones (that from <a href="http://trainingforclimbing.com/4-fingerboard-strength-protocols-that-work/" target="_blank">Eric Hörst</a> and, mainly, <a href="https://www.trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike-anderson-guide-to-hangboard-training/" target="_blank">from the Anderson Brothers</a>) but decided against changing the term. The reason is that the scientific literature has been referring to this as <b>“Isometric intermittent contractions” </b>(Bigland-Ritchie et al., 1981; Bellemare & Grassino, 1982; Sjøgaard et al., 1988), for some time now, as well as using the expression <b>“Intermittent training</b></span><span style="font-family: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>”</b></span><span style="font-family: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Green, 1979; Simoneau et al., 1985).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Scientists tend to adopt the terminology that is already established in their new research; which is a good thing, because it allows professionals in similar lines of research to readily understand concepts, and to adapt them to their sport of interest, enriching the field for everyone. This is what I’ve tried to do; this way scientists around the world, no matter if they climb or not, can identify the physiological base and its effects, its relevance for each sport and, most importantly, start conversations knowing they are on the same page</span><br />
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Why train Intermittent Dead Hangs? Why compare their effects with Maximum Strength Dead Hangs?</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">These are questions that you will be able to answer based on solid criteria when you finish reading this series, but let’s advance some concepts.</span><br />
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1. Intermittent Dead Hangs and Finger Endurance Development</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Climbing is not just about the high finger power levels that allow us to grab tiny holds, to climb on very small footholds or to go footless; having an enhanced ability for recovery is also key (Philippe et al., 2012; McLeod et al., 2007). Our fingers’ flexor muscles need to sustain the repetitive effort of high-intensity intermittent isometric contractions: the gripping and releasing of handholds. This is more relevant in the hardest sections of a route, those that determine its grade and also our performance.</span><br />
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJzpuM96ctgV2ekjBOr1kpt_jGDvmY4qIhEGNjUaqKHn3iF7wojnvfqpF8M6DaUSvJVXPlApRm8tbsIz_gQnGb2TbX31yTnanJFQ-dmsVEkuhNGrOHS_TJQ0WPZTFPIhIxAT9bTrIxeIR/s1600/courtesy+by+Mina+Leslie-Wujastyk%252C+20170724%252C+Mondays+motivation%252C+source+Mina%2527s+facebook+page%252C+photographer+David+Mason.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="768" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJzpuM96ctgV2ekjBOr1kpt_jGDvmY4qIhEGNjUaqKHn3iF7wojnvfqpF8M6DaUSvJVXPlApRm8tbsIz_gQnGb2TbX31yTnanJFQ-dmsVEkuhNGrOHS_TJQ0WPZTFPIhIxAT9bTrIxeIR/s400/courtesy+by+Mina+Leslie-Wujastyk%252C+20170724%252C+Mondays+motivation%252C+source+Mina%2527s+facebook+page%252C+photographer+David+Mason.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption"><span id="docs-internal-guid-c010eb14-c95f-2401-00f1-9ffa19975232" style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Climbing requires the ability to apply high levels of force on small holds, as </span><a href="http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: navy; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mina Leslie-Wujastyk</span></a><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> shows (thanks for the picture to Mina & David!). Source: Mina’s </span><a href="https://www.facebook.com/mina.lesliewujastyk/photos/a.282524318524744.62435.281907081919801/1273269619450204/?type=3&theater" style="text-decoration-line: none;">
<span style="color: navy; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Facebook</span></a><span style="vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> page. Picture by: </span></span>
<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/davidmason85/" style="color: navy; white-space: pre-wrap;">David Mason</a>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Depending on what percentage of our maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) we apply on a hold there will be, among other effects, a varying level of blood flow occlusion, and fatigue will appear at different rates. We can infer that, by increasing our maximum strength, we will be able to grab for 15-20 seconds a hold we previously would not have been able to hold for 8 seconds. Hence we could say, and it has been experimentally shown (López-Rivera & González-Badillo, 2012), that training maximum strength develops in parallel the ability to sustain high-intensity efforts, like gripping one tiny hold after another.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">This said, wouldn’t it also make sense to specifically work our ability for recovering between contractions through intermittent dead-hangs? In fact, this ability is, along with finger strength, another key performance factor (Ferguson & Brown, 1997, Fryer et al., 2014, MacLeod et al., 2007; Philippe et al. 2012). In particular, the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ClimbingPhysiology/">investigation group C-HIPPER</a> led by Vanesa España-Romero have recently (and very timely for me) shown that the forearm oxidative capacity index is a predictor of climbing performance (Fryer et al., 2016). This ability would be developed mostly when releasing the hold, especially for more than 3 seconds. Regarding sport climbing, I have observed in the field that there’s opportunity for this while clipping (3-5 seconds) and when shaking at a rest (3 to 10 seconds depending on the climber’s characteristics and how good the rest point is).</span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The method I<b> proposed was 3-5 x 4-5 x dead-hang x10” :5”/1’</b>, that reads like this:</span></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">3 to 5 sets of 4 to 5 ten-second dead-hang repetitions; the rest is 5 seconds between repetitions and 1 minute between sets. In my works <b>I chose the open crimp as grip type</b>, and the edge as the type of hold. <b>The size of the edge was such that,</b> as I advanced in the previous entry, allowed to complete all the volume<b> reaching failure in the last repetition of the last set. </b>To accomplish that the participants had to <b>continually choose the right edge size for each set or even repetition so they would build up fatigue but not too soon</b>. The eight-week program looked like this:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><i>week 1: 3 sets, 4 reps each; week 2: 4 sets, 4 reps each; week 3: 5 sets; week 4: 5 sets; week 5: 3 sets, 5 reps each; week 6: 4 sets, 5 reps each, week 7: 5 sets; week 8 : 5 sets.</i></span><br />
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span id="docs-internal-guid-c010eb14-c967-ee1c-1c46-4fa014209ae6"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b>IMPORTANT NOTES</b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">It is essential to be aware that t<b>hese workouts were performed twice a week</b> with 48 h rest between them, and they did not replace the actual climbing contents. The participants in the study were sport climbers (sentence added on 11 August). The dead hangs were done at the start of the session and there was a 15’ rest before proceeding to the next workout (climbing on the wall or others). The rest of the training contents, including the <b>climbing part of the session, meaning, the complete training plan itself </b>(these last five words were added on 11 August</span><span style="font-size: small;"><i>)</i></span><b style="font-size: medium;"> was controlled and standardized</b><span style="font-size: small;"> for all participants.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Another aspect I’d like to stress is that the fact that <b>I selected this configuration: type of grip</b> (these last three words were added on 11 August)<b> and a particular work/rest ratio and number of sets and repetitions for research purposes</b>, and that I observed certain effects using them, <b>does not mean that I propose to take those numbers and repeat them time and again regardless of</b> a person’s level. <u>Ideally you would make changes periodically, </u>and switch back and forth to other methods during your long-term plan. But we are getting ahead of ourselves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">1.1. What’s the rationale behind those 10” reps and 5”/1’ rests?</span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Mimicking the activity-to-rest ratio of a sport has been suggested (Meckel et col., 2009) as a way of improving specific endurance</b>. At the time of the experimental design I thought that for sport climbing we could then do a high-intensity intermittent dead-hangs method with 8-10” repetitions (White & Olsen, 2010), managing fatigue by changing the hold depth. This is similar to cluster training with “inter-repetition” rests put forward by authors like Iglesias et col. (2010), Haff et col. (2008), Hansen (2012) or more recently, Nicholson et al. (2016).</span></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">This specific finger training could promote faster phosphocreatine resynthesis (Tomlin & Wenger, 2001; McMahon & Jenkins, 2002) and would presumably enhance oxygenation during short rest periods. Both adaptations would lead to higher performance by allowing to sustain high levels of isometric force.</span></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">If Fryer et al. (2016) are right when they suggest that this capacity for oxygenation between contractions is a performance predictor, the next question would be if developing this capacity -with the method I propose or others- would result in elevated sport level. It is reasonable to think that this would be the case…</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXXbUg2WM5NPSVccTuZ5UXXZSvr8TYzZ2eHvJagB32QZWM58PJ3NmN8WF3axFG4DtayCz3cnsPL6Y5Kq_4qHsv-BYBH2RQhJdfg0ZTvMEB7Dgmd-yGuAPClCyAmpjxfEohjVPnpfV6LKL/s1600/Alyse+Dietel+on+Return+to+Sender%252C+5.12a%252C+Rifle%252C+Colorado-Photo+by+Christopher+Beauchamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="456" data-original-width="684" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXXbUg2WM5NPSVccTuZ5UXXZSvr8TYzZ2eHvJagB32QZWM58PJ3NmN8WF3axFG4DtayCz3cnsPL6Y5Kq_4qHsv-BYBH2RQhJdfg0ZTvMEB7Dgmd-yGuAPClCyAmpjxfEohjVPnpfV6LKL/s400/Alyse+Dietel+on+Return+to+Sender%252C+5.12a%252C+Rifle%252C+Colorado-Photo+by+Christopher+Beauchamp.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
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Alyse Dietel in “Return to Sender”, 5.12a, Rifle, Colorado. Picture by Christopher Beauchamp. (Thanks Alyse for the picture!)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">In this respect, McGee et col. (1992) and Robinson et col. (1995) have shown that the most effective method to make high-intensity endurance go up is to use high loads and do as many sets as possible while maintaining said load. And this sustained load is why my method does not entail lots of sets and repetitions as other, more extensive ones, like the <a href="https://www.climbingworks.com/files/public/Training_Articles/beastmaker_fingerboard_article.pdf">Beastmaker fingerboard training plan </a>by Ned Feehally or the <a href="https://www.trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike-anderson-guide-to-hangboard-training/">Anderson Brothers’ RPTC repeater Training Protocol.</a> <b>Another difference is that this method never aims to replace</b> a real climbing session at the gym or the crag, that will obviously be much longer and work other important qualities like power-endurance, bouldering (these last two words were added on 10 August) or ARC. Therefore, the intermittent dead-hangs are only a part of the session. <b>The above programs, that are higher in total volume and use a variety of hold types, may be beneficial to those who</b> can’t go to a climbing gym or a climbing spot, and perhaps they are designed with this kind of user in mind, which makes perfect sense from my point of view.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Regarding the rest-interval between repetitions, it was 5-second</b> long to account for these factors:</span></div>
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<li style="text-align: justify;">during a hard section the hand takes 1 to 5 seconds in average to go from one hold to the next; clipping takes around 3 seconds and shaking the forearms 2-5 seconds.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">five seconds is the duration of the oxygenation mechanism between isometric intermittent contractions according to Demura et col. (2008), or three seconds as Fryer et al. (2014) suggest for higher sport levels (this could be the next step after having trained with 5-second pauses).</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">this is the time that a person needs to chalk up and accommodate the fingers to the smaller holds in higher level athletes.</li>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Lastly, the 1 minute rest between sets</b> was in line with the conclusions in Watts et col. (2008): it does not allow to fully recover maximum strength and is thus adequate for working strength-endurance.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>2. Intermittent Dead Hangs and Increased Maximum Strength</b></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">As has already been said, finger maximum strength is a key performance factor in climbing (Balas et al., 2012; MacLeod et al., 2007; Philippe et al., 2012), so it is reasonable to keep it in sight for our training sessions. We know that the improvement in maximum strength is caused by two kinds of mechanisms:</span></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>a) Neural adaptations:</b> recruitment, firing rate, intermuscular coordination, motor unit synchronization, and</span></span></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>b) Structural changes:</b> hypertrophy, muscle fiber type switch, capillarization, metabolic gains.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Before explaining each of these aspects and their relationship with the kinds of loads we can use and how long to use them, we should be aware that in the human body almost no phenomenon happens in a vacuum; more likely they overlap, one of them taking priority regardless of the combination of volume, pause intervals, training experience, level, etc. This is why we should take what follows as general information and not as rules set in stone.</span></div>
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2.1. Strength gains due to Neural Factors</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">We know that this first group of changes is associated to the early improvement after any strength program, but they are more noticeable in methods that:</span></div>
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<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Use high loads:</b> those over 80% MVC in trained subjects (Hakkinen et al., 2001), and over 70% in untrained ones (Peterson, Rhea & Alvar, 2004); this implies low repetitions (1 to 8 RM) or shorter (up to 15”) isometric contractions.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;"><b>Use long rest intervals </b>between sets (3-5 minutes) to allow for a complete recovery.</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Maja Vidmar. Photo: <a href="http://javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: large;"><b>2.2. Strength Gains due to Structural Changes</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">As for the second group of changes, hypertrophy is a relevant one.<b> This does not necessarily mean that you will be able to notice a significant increase in the volume or perimeter of your forearms. </b>The changes <b>can be so subtle that they need to be measured with</b> DXA (Dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry), CT (Computerized Tomography) or MRI (Magnetic Resonance Imaging) (Colyer et al., 2016). This may be why some studies have not detected this effect (Sveen et al., 2016). The changes are statistically significant in most subjects after around 6 weeks, and are more noticeable if i) the training volume is moderately high: 8 to 15 RM/set or equivalent time for isometric methods, ii) the intensity is also moderately high: 75% of 1RM (65% for untrained persons), and most importantly iii) the recovery between sets is short, about 1 minute (Goto et al., 2005; Miranda et al., 2009; Nicholson et al., 2016; Schoenfeld, 2010; Willardson, 2006). The authors agree that the key is to promote a mechanical loading for long enough, thanks to the combination of a high absolute load, the number of repetitions and the incomplete pause.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>Now, could the intermittent dead-hangs tick all the boxes? Would it be reasonable to say that they can promote strength via a hypertrophy effect? We’ll see…</b></span></blockquote>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Well, after this “short introduction” and hoping it has been useful to begin understanding -and liking- this particular method, in the next entry I will present an extended version of the paper that I took to last summer’s US congress, titled: "<i>Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Training Programs on Maximal Finger Strength in Rock Climbers</i>". We will begin by checking if this intermittent method is useful for improving not only endurance, but also finger strength, and in that case how should it be applied.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">See you soon!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><b>RELATED </b></span><b>LINKS </b><b style="font-family: inherit;">:</b></div>
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<span style="background: transparent; color: #669922; font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">-<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.cl/2017/07/intermittent-dead-hangs-programs-for.html" style="background: transparent; color: #669922;">Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone</a></span><br />
-<a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2016/12/complex-timer-training-app-for-climbing.html" style="background: transparent; color: #88bb22; font-family: tahoma, "Trebuchet MS", lucida, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Complex Timer: A Training app for Climbing</span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">-<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3LDc9PI_wE" target="_blank">Dead Hang Training (6 of 6): The Intermittent Dead Hangs Metho</a>d</span><br />
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-<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2018/03/maximal-hangs-intermittent-hangs.html" style="background: transparent; color: #88bb22;">Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in sport climbers?</a></div>
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<span style="vertical-align: baseline;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">REFERENCES</span></b></span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Anderson, Michael, L.; Anderson, Mark L. (2014).</b> The Rock Climber's Training Manual: A guide to continuous improvement. Fixed Pin Public</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Baláš, J., Pecha, O., Martin, A.J.; Cochrane, D. (2012). </b>Hand–arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. European Journal of Sport Science , 12 (1), 16-25.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Bellemare, F., Grassino, A. (1982).</b> Effect of pressure and timing of contraction on human diaphragm fatigue. Journal of Applied Physiology (Bethesda, Md. : 1985), 53(5), 1190–1195.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Bigland-Ritchie, B, Bellemare, F.; Woods, JJ. (1981).</b> Central and peripheral fatigue in intermittent submaximal contractions. in: Porter R, Whelan J (Eds.) Human muscle fatigue: physiological mechanisms. Ciba Foundation Symposium No. 82. Pitman Medical, London.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Bigland-Ritchie, B. (1984). </b>Change in muscle contractile properties and neural control during human muscular fatigue. Muscle &amp; Nerve, 7, 691–699.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Colyer, S. L., Roberts, S. P., Robinson, J. B., Thompson, D., Stokes, K. A., Bilzon, J. L.,; Salo, A. I. (2016).</b> Detecting meaningful body composition changes in athletes using dual-energy x-ray absorptiometry. Physiological measurement, 37(4), 596.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Demura, S., Nakada, M., Yamaji, S., Nagasawa, Y. (2008). </b>Relationships between ForceTime Parameters and Muscle Oxygenation Kinetics during Maximal Sustained Isometric Grip and Maximal Repeated Rhythmic Grip with Different Contraction Frequencies. Journal of Physiological Anthropology, 27(3):161-168</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Ferguson, R. A., Brown, M. D. (1997).</b> Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects. European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology, 76(2), 174–180.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Lucero, A., Witter, T., Scarrott, C., Dickson, T., … Draper, N. (2014). </b>Haemodynamic Kinetics and Intermittent Finger Flexor Performance in Rock Climbers. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 36(2), 137–142.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Stone, K., Giles, D., Sveen, J., Garrido, I.,; España-Romero, V. (2016). </b>Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 116(8), 1479–1484.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Goto K, Ishii T, Kizuka N, Takamatsu K (2005). </b>The impact of meta- bolic stress on hormonal responses and muscular adaptations. Med Sci Sport Exer 37:955–963.</span></li>
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<ul><span style="font-size: x-small; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Green, H. J. (1979)</b>. Metabolic aspects of intermittent work with specific regard to ice hockey. Canadian journal of applied sport sciences. Journal canadien des sciences appliquees au sport, 4(1), 29-34. </span></li>
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<ul><span style="font-size: x-small; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Haff, G.G., Hobbs, R.T., Haff, E.E., Sands, W.A., Pierce, K.C. y Stone, M.H. (2008). </b>Cluster training: a novel method for introducing training program variation. Strength &amp; Conditioning Journal, 30(1), 67-76.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Hakkinen, K., Pakarinen, A., Kraemer, W.J., Hakkinen, A., Valkeinen, H. y Alen, M. </b><b>(2001). </b>Selective muscle hypertrophy, changes in EMG and force, and serum hormones during strength training in older women. Journal of Applied Physiology 91(2):569-80</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Hansen, K. T., Cronin, J. B., Pickering, S. L.; Newton, M. J. (2011).</b> Does cluster loading enhance lower body power development in preseason preparation of elite rugby union players?. The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 25(8), 2118-2126</span></li>
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<ul><span style="font-size: x-small; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Hörst, E. (1997). </b>How to Climb 5.12!. FalconGuides.</span></li>
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<ul><span style="font-size: x-small; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Iglesias E., Boullosa D.A., Dopico X., Carballeira E. (2010) </b>Analysis of factors that influence the maximum number of repetitions in two upper-body resistance exercises: curl biceps and bench press. J Strength Cond Res. 24(6):1566-72</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>MacLeod, D., Sutherland, D. L., Buntin, L., Whitaker, A., Aitchison, T. C., Watt, I., … Grant, S. (2007). </b>Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Sports Sciences, 25(12), 1433–1443. </span></li>
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<ul><span style="font-size: x-small; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>McGee, D., Jessee, T. C., Stone, M. H.; Blessing, D. (1992)</b>. Leg and hip endurance adaptations to three weight-training programs. The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 6(2), 92-95</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>McMahon, S. y Jenkins, D. (2002).</b> Factors affecting the rate of phosphocreatine resynthesis following intense exercise. Sports Medicine, 32(12), 761-784.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Meckel, Y., Machnai, O.; Eliakim, A. (2009)</b>. Relationship among repeated sprint tests, aerobic fitness, and anaerobic fitness in elite adolescent soccer players. The Journal of Strength &amp; Conditioning Research, 23(1), 163-169.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Miranda, H., Simão, R., Moreira, L. M., Souza, R., Souza, J. A. A. A., Salles, B. F.,; Willardson, J. (2009). </b>Effect of rest interval length on the volume completed during upper body resistance exercise. Journal of Sports Science and Medicine, 8, 388-392 </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Nicholson, G., Ispoglou, T.,; Bissas, A. (2016). </b>The impact of repetition mechanics on the adaptations resulting from strength-, hypertrophy- and cluster-type resistance training. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 116(10), 1875–1888. </span></li>
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<ul><span style="font-size: x-small; vertical-align: baseline;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Ogborn, D., Schoenfeld, B. J. (2014).</b> The Role of Fiber Types in Muscle Hypertrophy: Implications for Loading Strategies. Strength and Conditioning Journal, 36(2), 20–25. </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>Peterson, M.D., Rhea, M.R.; Alvar, B.A. (2004). </b>Maximizing strength development in </span>athletes: a meta-analysis to determine the dose-response relationship. The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 18(2), 377-382</li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Philippe, M., Wegst, D., Müller, T., Raschner, C.,; Burtscher, M. (2012).</b> Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 112(8), 2839–2847. </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Robinson, J.M., Stone, M.H., Johnson, R.L., Penland, C.M., Warren, B.J.; Lewis, R.D. (1995).</b> Effect of different weight training exercise/rest intervals on strength, power, and high intensity exercise endurance. The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 9:216-221.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Simoneau, J. A., Lortie, G., Boulay, M. R., Marcotte, M., Thibault, M. C.,; Bouchard, C. (1985). </b>Human skeletal muscle fiber type alteration with high-intensity intermittent training. European journal of applied physiology and occupational physiology, 54(3), 250-253.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Schoenfeld, B. J. (2010).</b> The mechanisms of muscle hypertrophy and their application to resistance training. Journal of Strength &amp; Conditioning Research, The, 24(10), 2857–2872. </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Sjøgaard, G., Savard, G., &amp; Juel, C. (1988).</b> Muscle blood flow during isometric activity and its relation to muscle fatigue. European Journal of Applied Physiology and Occupational Physiology, 57(3), 327–335.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Sveen, J., Stone, K. J., ; Fryer, S. M. (2016).</b> Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers. </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Tomlin, D.L. y Wenger, H.A. (2001). </b>The relationship between aerobic fitness and recovery from high intensity intermittent exercise. Sports Medicine, 31(1), 1-11.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><span class="fontstyle0"><b>Willardson, J.M. (2007).</b> </span><span class="fontstyle2">The application of training to failure in periodized multiple-set resistance exercise programs </span>resistance exercise programs. <span class="fontstyle3">The Journal of Strength &amp; Conditioning Research</span><span class="fontstyle2">, </span>21(2):628-631.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small;"><b>Watts, P. (2004). </b>Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European Journal of Applied Physiology (91), 361-372</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><b>White, D.J., y Olsen, P.D. (2010). </b>A time motion analysis of bouldering style competitive rock climbing. The Journal of Strength &amp; Conditioning Research, 24(5)</span><span style="font-size: xx-small;">, 1356-1360. </span></li>
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-24339947526772181262017-07-28T12:00:00.003+02:002022-03-16T09:52:48.903+01:00Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone<br />
<a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2017/07/programas-de-suspensiones-intermitentes.html" target="_blank">Spanish version</a><br />
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It's been a while since I last updated this blog, and I've finally decided to do it for two reasons:<br />
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<b>The first and foremost is the need to clarify</b> some aspects that seem to generate a bit of confusion; these include the dead-hangs methods I put forward, together with a set of periodization schemes whose aim is to develop finger strength and endurance in climbers, both mid- and long-term.<br />
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<b>The second motive is</b> that I want the results of my latest research to be known to the public because, specially out of Spain, my name is associated mainly to finger maximum strength methods, those where we use the [near] maximum possible added weight (MAW) or the smallest (minimal) edge (MED).<br />
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With time, <b>as my thesis can attest, I looked at the effects of intermittent dead hangs (usually known as <i>repeaters</i>) not only </b>as a strength-endurance method, but also to gain strength via hypertrophy. This topic is present <a href="https://ruidera.uclm.es/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10578/5402/TESIS%20L%C3%B3pez%20Rivera.pdf?sequence=1" target="_blank">in my PH.D. thesis</a>, in the training videos from my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_T-DXVxUcl_QVLEJy_YD-Q" target="_blank">Youtube channel</a>, the <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312554382_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_Hangboard_Training_Programs_on_Maximal_Finger_Strength_in_Rock_Climbers" target="_blank">abstract that I presented at the most recent climbing congress </a>and in the training guide that accompanies the <a href="http://www.surfacesforclimbing.com/shop/tablas-entrenamiento-escalada-dedos-rocodromo/" target="_blank">Progression and Transgression hangboards</a>. Why all of the above has gone under the radar is a bit of a head scratcher, but perhaps it is related to the first paper I published in 2012 that compared two maximum strength methods, or my first research and writing being about that same quality. No matter the reasons, it is understandable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6kvjjpyhNFzAGY79UeKXpT1BJ7sUx_Qgj_ayYeBOxVbmPu3M068egOwf6WiiiyxkC8dqRpYhHpA-m-N29iuVCN3rcaIUvQ2MFzX7wyA15eFHIeQs96jC7x24wpEMMuzkZ8NVo7mpG8DMq/s1600/plan-de-entrenamiento_transgression.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="379" data-original-width="538" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6kvjjpyhNFzAGY79UeKXpT1BJ7sUx_Qgj_ayYeBOxVbmPu3M068egOwf6WiiiyxkC8dqRpYhHpA-m-N29iuVCN3rcaIUvQ2MFzX7wyA15eFHIeQs96jC7x24wpEMMuzkZ8NVo7mpG8DMq/s320/plan-de-entrenamiento_transgression.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQelgaM88EZwMsO80IiKGMOM6tMlivdo1FD3H0_tf73j6snO7XsaJv5aI5PqhvqzFWX15aPG8NatKuCvk9X190ntidhgXJ-SINY6BK6CUAnsVfOMyueyAP54HPoKF084W-COKacnWsQyjf/s1600/training-plan_progression.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="380" data-original-width="538" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQelgaM88EZwMsO80IiKGMOM6tMlivdo1FD3H0_tf73j6snO7XsaJv5aI5PqhvqzFWX15aPG8NatKuCvk9X190ntidhgXJ-SINY6BK6CUAnsVfOMyueyAP54HPoKF084W-COKacnWsQyjf/s320/training-plan_progression.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">From now on, you will be able to have the Progression and Transgression Training Guides' Programs in your smartphone. Note: Excuse me for not providing a higher resolution pictures of the posters. I am not allowed to, since they are only available for those who purchase the hangboards. However, if you are interested in knowing these hangboard training programs (and more), don't worry because they will be available for everyone very soon.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<b>The next entries will try to fill the gap, discussing this method and its effects</b>, and how to combine it with your maximum strength methods both during a cycle and in your long-term planning. I'll begin with an extended version of the <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/312554382_Comparison_of_the_Effects_of_Three_Hangboard_Training_Programs_on_Maximal_Finger_Strength_in_Rock_Climbers" target="_blank">paper I presented in the summer of 2016 during the III International Rock Climbing Research Congress</a> that took place in <a href="https://www.ircra.rocks/colorado-2016" target="_blank">Telluride (Colorado, USA)</a>. <br />
<br />
In the meantime, here you have several intermittent dead-hangs programs that you can load in <a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2016/12/complex-timer-training-app-for-climbing.html" target="_blank">Complex Timer, the Android app that I talked about in an earlier blog post</a>. You can download <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.deslomator.complextimer&hl=en" target="_blank">the app here</a>, and then <b>choose to install the beginner (A) program or the advanced (B) one or both, attending to these criteria</b>: <br />
<br />
a) your <b>previous experience</b> with intermittent dead-hangs <br />
b) your <b>current level of finger strength and endurance</b><br />
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b>By the way, these programs that you will have handy in your phone or tablet <b>are part of the Training Guides bundled with each Progression or Transgression finger board, and a bit more</b> current at that. And there are more coming.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
Tutorial: how to install the Intermittent Dead Hangs Training Programs</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
Complex Timer runs in your mobile device, so <b>it makes sense for you to download the training programs with it.</b> <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>1- If you don't have Complex Timer yet,</b> download it <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.deslomator.complextimer&hl=en" target="_blank">from the play store</a>. <br />
<br />
<b>2- Tap <a href="https://goo.gl/nmVyv7" target="_blank">this link</a></b><a href="https://goo.gl/nmVyv7" target="_blank"> to access my training programs </a>cloud folder. <br />
<br />
<b>3- Long tap the file you want and select the download icon</b> from the pop-up menu:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4neQ-e3XgfJb2gTDi5ZKfxZh9GaDbvpbG9JLQiMrhqXgdlGHAADojq-zXtfhoaA0ZoBVgE2oiSw_C6IL4S6fUDBNPGKArOQY6eGGN18uL8uEwEmd8ZBSFYTPSujKtBJYpessmSHYRRyM/s1600/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1036" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4neQ-e3XgfJb2gTDi5ZKfxZh9GaDbvpbG9JLQiMrhqXgdlGHAADojq-zXtfhoaA0ZoBVgE2oiSw_C6IL4S6fUDBNPGKArOQY6eGGN18uL8uEwEmd8ZBSFYTPSujKtBJYpessmSHYRRyM/s320/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+01.jpg" width="207" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
<b>4- Open Complex Timer and make a backup of your existing sessions or workouts first.</b> Tap "<i>Backup sessions"</i> from the three-dots menu and they will be saved to /ComplexTimer/backups.<br />
<br />
<b>The app will ask for permission to access </b>your phone's storage if you haven't already granted it, so do it now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWyD5M06JbI1XZE1876vD9p4pHG_FULNXlJHz4jukq2u7uy1UKoZl4nBq7ZtlWB1H-8tya7SsVxSshmIvlSDonZh9qtJkyrzj1jZtdl227c9FdtovcU2nmge1NMR4TldlY6L1_fa2Hshs/s1600/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1362" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWyD5M06JbI1XZE1876vD9p4pHG_FULNXlJHz4jukq2u7uy1UKoZl4nBq7ZtlWB1H-8tya7SsVxSshmIvlSDonZh9qtJkyrzj1jZtdl227c9FdtovcU2nmge1NMR4TldlY6L1_fa2Hshs/s320/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+3.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>5- Back in the three-dots menu tap "Restore backup"</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-gwSdCyZhpUjocpJQwDF8na9nxOsfJ4Tts3m7rksCkGpsBzv0k9HQ17JClUBxMXwe2VQxJkd9im5EzRe9HKtFkPEe_WXuquqkRMMjDl4hlYfjTH4l6GlIuwI8cgdUOSDG4YG52u7UOQ/s1600/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1071" data-original-width="1080" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-gwSdCyZhpUjocpJQwDF8na9nxOsfJ4Tts3m7rksCkGpsBzv0k9HQ17JClUBxMXwe2VQxJkd9im5EzRe9HKtFkPEe_WXuquqkRMMjDl4hlYfjTH4l6GlIuwI8cgdUOSDG4YG52u7UOQ/s320/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>Browse to the location where you downloaded </b>the training programs. In the example I downloaded them to Complex Timer’s “backups” folder, but very likely they will be in your Downloads folder.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHK0d3ktAvJTSdT_UKFnv2wgkmCjgv5h52cigzYLpggurA1bdrB5ZKFY_BQ1-wtjYTxwttFgMAosluKO60Xku0sqbE_sG6B6wDxnYZFvqnIUI8cm2vBKkaIf6ADHNk4aPpxw9KLQ7FXfk/s1600/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1276" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHK0d3ktAvJTSdT_UKFnv2wgkmCjgv5h52cigzYLpggurA1bdrB5ZKFY_BQ1-wtjYTxwttFgMAosluKO60Xku0sqbE_sG6B6wDxnYZFvqnIUI8cm2vBKkaIf6ADHNk4aPpxw9KLQ7FXfk/s320/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+5.jpg" width="270" /></a></div>
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<b>6- A dialog will pop up asking if you want to delete</b> the Sessions you already have; you'll probably want to choose "NO" here.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeO0Yoa_r2YxniqOGfup_T7r4w4V-4J5biqr9JTk7oq9iXcm8teAWrchmrwRrYlDgrwuIjmiQvkyFIiDOAsKrUJBd_weOfp6WguciBG-uEyWZreghphCTmpnFC9Mm-KEEHxoCBMLtnsI/s1600/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1315" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeO0Yoa_r2YxniqOGfup_T7r4w4V-4J5biqr9JTk7oq9iXcm8teAWrchmrwRrYlDgrwuIjmiQvkyFIiDOAsKrUJBd_weOfp6WguciBG-uEyWZreghphCTmpnFC9Mm-KEEHxoCBMLtnsI/s320/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+7.jpg" width="262" /></a></div>
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<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>7- Now you have several 8-week programs </b>(8 weeks is what is needed for this method to show effects. as we will see in the next entry), <b>divided into 4 sub-levels </b>(two for each level A and B) that are intended to perform in order. In this sense, I highly recommend you don't advance fast, but instead, you repeat several times each until you no longer see improvement.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If you already were training intermittent dead hangs now it'll be even easier; if not, you must first learn what <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3LDc9PI_wE" target="_blank">this methodology is about</a> and then start with level A1.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZrU11sxchk85UtXIthtG1BbCsSqOfQpI4owfHyXB1N1EsnnPhlkNOvTve3rekWhrtH44bKdVuDefZHjH2aGcQI7g1-qRyc-PTjL5bwiDV4D1hvvNNRL2z3c2VX9OxIu-Rz6I9nbluHE/s1600/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+8.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1447" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ZrU11sxchk85UtXIthtG1BbCsSqOfQpI4owfHyXB1N1EsnnPhlkNOvTve3rekWhrtH44bKdVuDefZHjH2aGcQI7g1-qRyc-PTjL5bwiDV4D1hvvNNRL2z3c2VX9OxIu-Rz6I9nbluHE/s320/eva+lopez%252C+intermittent+deadhangs%252C+complex+programs+8.png" width="238" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>In the days to come we will extensively delve into this topic</b> but, for the impatient among you, here are the most important bits of knowledge:<br />
<br />
<b>a) choose an edge size (depth) that allows you to honor the buffer or effort level </b>set for each repetition, that has to be hard but no so much that you reach failure before the end of the session;<br />
<br />
<b>b) it is ideal to end the last repetition of the last set with failure or near failure.</b> If you feel that you are getting exhausted too early switch to a bigger edge for the next repetition. If you have the opposite feeling, go for a smaller one, no matter if the set has not ended yet.<br />
<b><br />How do I find the right edge depth?</b></div>
<div>
This varies from one individual to another, and from one time to the next. If you really want to progress you have to evaluate the conditions for each repetition, day and circumstances (meteorology, fatigue, skin, level, etc). But do not lose sight of the objective, that is completing all the proposed volume.<br />
<br />
<b>And now, let's work out!!!!</b></div><div><b> </b></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;">Download my training programs from the cloud store <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6SWaW4OUfZiYjlWakVXOVpzbWs?resourcekey=0-R3mlZudVeSbP1bC6NPnwvg&usp=sharing" target="_blank">here </a></span><b><br /></b></div>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-23338950700570665852016-12-28T13:27:00.001+01:002018-03-09T12:14:26.653+01:00Complex Timer: A Training app for Climbing<br />
<br />
Versión<a href="https://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2016/12/complex-timer-una-aplicacion-de-android.html" target="_blank"> en español</a><br />
<br />
As you know, for some Endurance training methods like <a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/aerobic-endurance-training-in-sport_29.html" target="_blank">Extensive Interval Training</a> or <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3LDc9PI_wE" target="_blank">Intermittent Dead-hangs/ Repeaters</a>, several nested
countdowns are needed.<br />
<br />
After years of trying lots of interval timer apps
and finding that none of them suited all of our particular training
needs, my boyfriend, Daf, decided to write his own. <span class="_5mfr _47e3"><img alt="" class="img" height="16" src="https://www.facebook.com/images/emoji.php/v6/f57/1/16/1f609.png" width="16" /><span class="_7oe"> </span></span><br />
<h3>
Basic Tutorial</h3>
As its name reveals, it can be a bit unusual at first glance, so a tutorial was in order.<br />
Hope you like it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/z1UNhmfwiaY/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/z1UNhmfwiaY?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<h3>
<b>Features</b></h3>
- Backup and restore your sessions.<br />
- Copy a session to use it as a template for a new one.<br />
- Group countdowns that repeat several times.<br />
- Nest a group inside another one to create complex patterns.<br />
- Move countdowns or whole groups up/down or even inside/outside groups.<br />
- Copy countdowns or groups to save time.<br />
- Goup and countdown descriptions are customizable.<br />
- Set the type of alarm that will be played before a countdown starts, so that you know if a pause or a work segment comes next.<br />
- Set an alarm to warn you before the time is up.<br />
- Choose among 9 different colors for each countdown.<br />
- Skip any particular repetition(s).<br />
- Choose whether the session will pause when a countdown ends.<br />
- Skip backward/forward while running a session.<br />
- Keep the screen on while running a session.<br />
-
See the complete session in list form to have a visual reference of
what it's going to look like, and use it to skip to any particular
countdown.<br />
- Run, pause and reset the session from the lockscreen notification.<br />
- Receive an alarm that indicates the whole session has ended<span style="color: #0000ee;"><u>.</u></span><br />
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<a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.deslomator.complextimer&hl=en" target="_blank"><img alt="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.deslomator.complextimer&hl=en" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGsRhaH6X9D2WwT1sNTuWtox6sgjQpwIhrJk45PunPIDhMitSV1UnNsOSaU-ApycZwsoyWO8ByipQTgrgRi9xQK2stDSscoKqK6mHGkbUYHhRSe7VQ97Jz4UYq4108n3kwkxRFC3TygYw/s320/IMG_20161216_165124.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
If you feel curious, <a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.deslomator.complextimer&hl=en" target="_blank">give Complex Timer a try</a> and let me know what you think of it (or leave a
comment in Google Play)<span class="_5mfr _47e3"><span class="_7oe"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<span class="_5mfr _47e3"><span class="_7oe"></span></span>Thank you and happy training!Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-60300791630876745972015-03-25T08:14:00.000+01:002018-03-09T12:14:27.426+01:00Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing. Capacity (IV): Periodization and Load Progression<br />
<br />
Versión<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/entrenamiento-de-continuidad-la.html" target="_blank"> en español</a><br />
<br />
After looking at the methodology <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/aerobic-endurance-training-in-sport_29.html" target="_blank">in the previous post</a>, I would like to end this <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/search/label/Endurance%20Training" target="_blank">series about Training Capacity</a> (also known as ARC) by presenting some examples of load progression: a) from a microcycle or week to the next (in the same mesocycle) and b) from a mesocycle to the next (between consecutive groups of weeks) or from a macrocycle to the next (groups of mesocycles, spanning several months).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uP9gDd4NclgdXSEBIkR7zk2-E5z29ECT6_0Zu-TrTHu_Xl5Bbo_8pz7bHVULRWYv2M9HgEkh_d2Y7xfHyuSeZK4yUmGIieAh7Enkx98LU-Qre5pH-R155zeLV3zNS8CR0y5rHpRwzzaf/s1600/Eva+Lopez+Climbin+coaching,+photo+by+javipec-Assesment+Isa+Carbonel,+Toledo-20150203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1uP9gDd4NclgdXSEBIkR7zk2-E5z29ECT6_0Zu-TrTHu_Xl5Bbo_8pz7bHVULRWYv2M9HgEkh_d2Y7xfHyuSeZK4yUmGIieAh7Enkx98LU-Qre5pH-R155zeLV3zNS8CR0y5rHpRwzzaf/s1600/Eva+Lopez+Climbin+coaching,+photo+by+javipec-Assesment+Isa+Carbonel,+Toledo-20150203.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-a0b0d4dd-4fb3-c2ad-c171-d4c12efe0cb6" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
The evolution of the load, as always, must be individualized, attending to our characteristics (level, training experience, age...), goals and even to the facilities we have access to. In the image, data gathering during a coaching session with my wonderful trainee Isabel Carbonell. Picture by <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a></div>
<a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank"></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<h2>
A- How to progress from one week to the next</h2>
<br />
It is easy to deduce that, being this entry about capacity, the natural path is to increase the total session volume.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
1. Continuous method</h3>
<br />
<br />
<br />
In this case we will slowly go up in the number of minutes as weeks go by.<br />
<br />
<b>Example 1 (medium level)</b><br />
<ul>
<li>week 1, load microcycle 1: 8' of easy climbing</li>
<li>week 2, load microcycle 2: 10' of easy climbing</li>
<li>week 3, load microcycle 3: 12' of easy climbing</li>
<li>week 4, recovery microcycle: 6' of easy climbing</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>Example 2 (medium-high level, long training experience)</b><br />
<ul>
<li>week 1, load microcycle 1: 15' of easy climbing</li>
<li>week 2, load microcycle 2: 18' of easy climbing</li>
<li>week 3, load microcycle 3: 20' of easy climbing</li>
<li>week 4, recovery microcycle: 10' of easy climbing</li>
</ul>
<br />
<h3>
2. Long interval training</h3>
Once we know how long we want each set to be, we will increment the number of sets per session:<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Example 1 (medium level)</b><br />
<ul>
<li>week 1, load microcycle 1: 3x5' of easy climbing:2'</li>
<li>week 2, load microcycle 2: 4x5' of easy climbing :2'</li>
<li>week 3, recovery microcycle: 2x5' of easy climbing:2'</li>
</ul>
<b>Example 2 (medium-high level, long training experience)</b><br />
<ul>
<li>week 1, load microcycle 1: 3x8' of easy climbing:90"</li>
<li>week 2, load microcycle 2: 4x8' of easy climbing:90"</li>
<li>week 3, load microcycle 3: 5x8' of easy climbing :90"</li>
<li>week 4, recovery microcycle: 2x8' of easy climbing :90"<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<h2>
Are there any other options for load progression?</h2>
<br />
Depending on our objectives, <b>we could increase</b> the duration of each set while extending the recovery pauses; a more advanced variation would be to leave the pauses unchanged.<br />
<br />
<b>Shortening the recovery pauses is an even more advanced alternative</b>. As we will learn later, it can be used to progress between macrocycles or even seasons (groups of macrocycles).<br />
<br />
<b><br />What would not make a lot of sense</b> in this case would be to <b>increase the relative intensity</b> of each set. A different question is absolute intensity; as our physical condition improves, we almost inadvertently will change the size and distance of the holds we choose. But this modification will be a consequence of training, not an intentional action.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>In any case</b>, the choice of parameters to tweak will be a function of the level of the climber, their characteristics, goals and time constraints. I recommend you start this way:<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
Basic guide for load evolution in Capacity methods</h2>
<ol>
<li><b>Set the total volume </b>you want to reach.</li>
<li><b>Choose a set duration </b>that is "manageable" (interval method) or that you will climb in one go (continuous method).</li>
<li><b>During the first 2 to 3 weeks</b> of the mesocycle, start with a reduced volume and then increase the number of sets until you reach the volume you established in point 1; the 3rd or 4th week will be for recovery, halving the number of sets.</li>
</ol>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2x1f2C8gc0shj5lDgPpG3c1Z5mQAUsP3G1nmjv7ouPojAHWmGZ-S4fwD4EXDHQPBFhJjB0hyphenhyphen1gbZuw_1Eu4cSYQdMwfaDN1evzpKw2voC2MO_Z5ToFocF_iutrMsshBnjTruW6BFBRGRt/s1600/2014-01-Eva+Lopez+training+at+her+climbing+gym,+Toledo-photo+by+Javipec.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2x1f2C8gc0shj5lDgPpG3c1Z5mQAUsP3G1nmjv7ouPojAHWmGZ-S4fwD4EXDHQPBFhJjB0hyphenhyphen1gbZuw_1Eu4cSYQdMwfaDN1evzpKw2voC2MO_Z5ToFocF_iutrMsshBnjTruW6BFBRGRt/s1600/2014-01-Eva+Lopez+training+at+her+climbing+gym,+Toledo-photo+by+Javipec.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eva López training capacity. Picture by <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" target="_blank"></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h2>
B. How to progress between mesocycles or macrocycles</h2>
<br />
<b>According to your objectives and level</b>, for the next macrocycle or mesocycle (group of microcycles with a specific goal in the context of your planning), <b>you can choose between</b> extending the duration of the sets or shortening the pauses between them:<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Intermediate level</b>: In this case I prefer <b>to go for longer sets.</b></li>
<li><b>High level:</b> the second strategy,<b> reducing recovery time</b>, will probably be the most suitable tool we can resort to, because it will be likely that we have already maxed out all the other variables (especially set duration and total session volume). <b>Beyond this point, beware</b>... we need to realize that when a certain volume near the limit we can tolerate is reached, it makes no sense to keep on adding to it and we should better focus on a different effect or endurance objective.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<h3>
As an example, assuming a previously set volume of 25 minutes...</h3>
<ol>
<li><b>First mesocycle: week</b> 1, 3x5’ :2’; week 2: 4x5’ :2’ and week 3: 5x5’ :2’. Week 4 is a recovery microcycle, 2-3x5’ :2’.</li>
<li><b>Next mesocycle:</b> week 1, 4x6' :2' (24' total); week 2, 5x6' :2'; week 3, down to 3x6' :2'.</li>
<li><b>In a subsequent mesocycle</b> you could start with 5x5' :90" and so on...</li>
</ol>
<h2>
How many days per week should I train capacity?</h2>
<b>If you are new to capacity training</b> or have a medium level, every other day:<br />
<ul>
<li>2 days if you climb outdoors in the weekends.</li>
<li>Up to 3 days if you don't go rock climbing in the weekends.</li>
</ul>
<b>If you have a long training experience</b>, a high level and want to especially prioritize this content, you can work it almost all training days:<br />
<ul>
<li>Around 3-4 days per week if you climb in the weekends.</li>
<li>Up to 5-6 days if you don't climb outdoors.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<h2>
The place of Capacity training in the session</h2>
<br />
If the<b> session is of the kind called a</b> <b>complex session </b>(several contents vs selective session), we need to decide which contents have higher priority and which are complementary at each stage, and then decide how to train each one. This analysis should begin by questioning why we want to work each content at all; in this case, if and why capacity is useful for our purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>If you usually train 2 days in the weekdays</b>, you will need to perform complex sessions, and probably to include these contents. In general, it is sensible to follow <b>the rule of starting with the more intense, power-demanding or [technically] complex methods</b> and follow with easier and simpler contents. In other words and in this order: maximum strength, boulder, high-intensity endurance (intensive interval and repetition methods that we will look at in the future) and capacity.<br />
<br />
<b>On the other hand, the order can differ</b> to the point of being just the opposite if the goals and, more importantly, the level and objectives justify it. <b>For a high level athlete</b> it can be interesting, at certain points in a macrocycle, to place the capacity at the middle or at the beginning of the session, before the strength, power or high intensity interval contents, with the objective of creating a shock load due to the pre exhaustion or even depletion.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJpZzGlQHDVywoln3Yicf0-tHHbUeEZ05JHuUoBqtGWuSCVXTFnyGMAjxmk4SyOgR5q5aC4yjZbST1jWOm8XpWhstk8qfgNhZ8nJRnj2RdfJJ367H5t36FFPmsEXSXRFyR22p3eso6cqP/s1600/Matilda+Soderl%C3%A4nd,+Eclipse+Cerebral,+8b,+cueva+de+cazadores,+Rodellar-photo+by+Javipec.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJpZzGlQHDVywoln3Yicf0-tHHbUeEZ05JHuUoBqtGWuSCVXTFnyGMAjxmk4SyOgR5q5aC4yjZbST1jWOm8XpWhstk8qfgNhZ8nJRnj2RdfJJ367H5t36FFPmsEXSXRFyR22p3eso6cqP/s1600/Matilda+Soderl%C3%A4nd,+Eclipse+Cerebral,+8b,+cueva+de+cazadores,+Rodellar-photo+by+Javipec.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://matilda-soderlund.blogspot.com.es/" target="_blank">Matilda Soderländ</a>, Eclipse Cerebral, 8b, Rodellar. Picture by <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
Where to include Capacity in a Macrocycle</h2>
<br />
<b>It will be the main focus o</b>n the days that are devoted to working qualities related to endurance, during the <b>initial (called general</b>, base or introductory depending on the author) <b>mesocycle</b>, for all levels (always respecting the advice on method, set duration and pause duration). For lower and mid-levels, this applies also to the specific mesocycle.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>It will be a complementary content </b>some days in any mesocycle if the goal is to diversify the training stimulus after high-intensity or high-stress phases (this would be a transition microcycle) or as an active recovery method in high-intensity (shock) or competitive microcycles.<br />
<br />
<h2>
How long should you train your capacity for?</h2>
As we learned in this <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/update-endurance-training-in-sport.html" target="_blank">series' entry about physiology</a>, capacity develops mostly by <b>structural changes</b>, that take longer to set in. Even though some effects might be noticeable after 3-4 weeks, we <b>could establish a minimum period of 6-8 weeks</b> for these to be significant.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Conclusions</h2>
If, after several weeks of using this methodology, you notice the following positive effects:<br />
<ul>
<li><b>It takes longer to get depleted </b>while you try your project or you don't get depleted at all, even if you stay a long time on the route, falling repeatedly.</li>
<li><b>You don't get exhausted or as tired as </b>before to train capacity, and the next day you still can perform moderately intense climbs.</li>
<li><b>And, of course, you can fight longer</b> while onsighting or trying a route...</li>
</ul>
Then... <b>you will know your training is on the right path</b>. On top of achieving that, <b>the methods that you will use next to develop other kinds of aerobic endurance and power endurance will have a greater effect</b>. And this is also important.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>And, once again, </b>remember that this series has dealt with capacity, but <b>it will be crucial for your training to also work contents related to maximum strength and boulder</b>.<br />
<br />
<b>I, for one, am not in favor of devoting whole mesocycles to just one of the qualities</b> that influence performance. But this is a topic for another blog entry...<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>RELATED LINKS</b><br />
<br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html" target="_blank">Why we need to train Local Aerobic Endurance: Let the Numbers Talk</a><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/objectives-and-bases-for-designing.html" target="_blank">Objectives and Bases for Designing an Endurance Training Program in Sport Climbing</a><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/update-endurance-training-in-sport.html" target="_blank">Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (I). Physiological Adaptations</a><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/aerobic-endurance-training-in-sport.html" target="_blank">Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (II). Training Load Elements: Objectives, Intensity and Volume</a><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/aerobic-endurance-training-in-sport_29.html" target="_blank">Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing. Capacity (III): Training Methods</a>Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-88702036939531424712014-12-29T10:24:00.001+01:002018-03-09T12:14:28.142+01:00Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing. Capacity (III): Training Methods<br />
<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/actualizacion-entrenamiento-de.html" target="_blank">Spanish version</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
I- Overview</h2>
<h3>
1.1. Basic rules</h3>
The two methods we are going to discuss have the following rule in common: stay for a long time on the wall, climbing at a <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/aerobic-endurance-training-in-sport.html" target="_blank">low intensity</a>.<br />
<br />
<h3>
1.2. Rhythm</h3>
<b>Uniform, steady and adjusted</b> to the previously planned load. You'd be right to guess that the <b>longer the activity, the lower the average pace</b> will be, so that we will move at a slow or very slow speed, stopping just for the time needed to choose the next hold.<br />
<b>Occasionally we will stop for 1-2 seconds</b> to shake our hand a bit, in order not to exceed the set load. But <b>it is not a characteristic</b> of this method to shake off for more than 3 seconds or to stop at a resting point; these are typical of a different method that will be the subject of other entries.<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuv_ZjZy2hkMFaWzlH5k_-aZxkHvxREAi8k0tP-GT6tjaL_-cwcbqxbKmorMupLiuOP6x6A3NQdnGCEbk3tNChyphenhyphenHLneZ6YBVvJvcq8f1c7kKscq07C6JqduC1K4tE8zyey2iQPOLhkMpHI/s1600/Eva+Lopez+training+in+her+climbing+gym+from+Toledo-Photo+by+Javipec-endurance,+capacity,+load+control.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuv_ZjZy2hkMFaWzlH5k_-aZxkHvxREAi8k0tP-GT6tjaL_-cwcbqxbKmorMupLiuOP6x6A3NQdnGCEbk3tNChyphenhyphenHLneZ6YBVvJvcq8f1c7kKscq07C6JqduC1K4tE8zyey2iQPOLhkMpHI/s1600/Eva+Lopez+training+in+her+climbing+gym+from+Toledo-Photo+by+Javipec-endurance,+capacity,+load+control.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eva López "self-pointing" the right holds for Capacity training. Picture: <a href="http://javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3>
1.3. Control of the Intensity</h3>
This is <b>the most important factor</b> to achieve the desired training effects. When training your capacity it would be ideal to be able to discern what holds and wall angle <b>will allow us to maintain</b> a <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/aerobic-endurance-training-in-sport.html" target="_blank">1-2 level of pain in the forearms</a> (very mild pump).<br />
<ul>
<li><b>If we don't comply with that and go beyond level 2</b>, we have to realize that we are not training our capacity anymore, and we should move to a less steep wall or use bigger holds; if necessary, we will even stop at a good jug until we go back to the desired subjective sensation. </li>
<li> <b>If we need to re-adjust too often</b>, we have to ask ourselves if the set duration is too long, the pause between sets too short or the chose holds/angle aren't ideal at this moment.</li>
</ul>
<h3>
1.4. Where to train: How steep, what holds? Route or traverse?...</h3>
In general we will seek a wall with the steepness and holds that allow us to limit the forearm pain (level 1-2) and fulfill the programmed volume. With this in mind:<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<ul>
<li><b>If we train on a route</b> that is already set, it should be homogeneous and long. If it's shorter than the desired duration we'll climb and unclimb it as many times as needed without descending to the ground.</li>
<li><b>If the wall is short like in a bouldering gym</b>, and there are no set routes, we will choose our holds as we climb (like playing <i>pointer game</i> alone), trying to move up and down as possible, rather than going laterally all the time.</li>
<li><b>The wall angle and hold size depend</b> on our level. Some examples:</li>
<ul>
<li><b>an elite climber</b> can work this facet of aerobic endurance on a 130º wall on medium holds (2-phalange deep) and stay there for a long time.</li>
<li><b>a beginner</b> or someone with a lower level will only be able to comply with the volume on slabs and vertical walls with good holds (3-phalange deep), and for a limited time at that. This time issue will be addressed later.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3EWFsbCFjbKYKXyaZYxxPAV7lck7F0llXRcxovtMVZX21uqmguiwIlh2BIBWD5EvlCZOtN40UNnO223gQmRxn6J8Wz0wTaNu_Aknz_RscwPnWuwQu-Q39LEmp6Mkwt-yQD02joqcRQY4/s1600/20140430_124338_cr-climbing+holds+election.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3EWFsbCFjbKYKXyaZYxxPAV7lck7F0llXRcxovtMVZX21uqmguiwIlh2BIBWD5EvlCZOtN40UNnO223gQmRxn6J8Wz0wTaNu_Aknz_RscwPnWuwQu-Q39LEmp6Mkwt-yQD02joqcRQY4/s1600/20140430_124338_cr-climbing+holds+election.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It
is important to carefully choose the holds for each content. For
Capacity, they will be mostly rounded lip jugs that accommodate 3
phalanges. Photo: <a href="http://jmclimbing.com/index.php/en/" target="_blank">JM Climbing holds</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
II- Method Categories</h2>
Attending to the continuity of the action there are two methods:<br />
<br />
<h2>
2.1. Continuous Method</h2>
<b>2.1.1. What is it?</b><br />
It consists on climbing or <b>"staying" on the wall for a prolonged time without descending</b> to the ground. It is the equivalent of continuous running in track and field. Once you step off the floor you do not go down until the time expires.<b> This is the most simple and basic </b>method, with some particularities that will be explained later.<br />
<br />
<b>2.1.2. It is recommended for...</b><br />
- <i>early stages of training</i> for lower and medium level climbers<br />
- a <i>General Mesocycle</i> in the Season for those who want to climb longer routes (more than 15-minute long), onsight 20+ meter long routes, or climb multi-pitch routes<br />
- <i>active recovery</i> sessions<br />
-<i>going back to training</i> after a rest period or an injury, for all levels<br />
<br />
<b>2.1.3. Characteristics</b><br />
From 5 to 45 minutes of continuous climbing.<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br class="kix-line-break" /></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdooEtCTEYS_MJyS7ZxYWtq_cZIq2UwluNN-SPG8plwL__kdDqilaeKZymCdLSZFgXt2ooPYTimXQbHLKWWZ56y2ZbQWJM3bWcO09g5qzD_pfkLFRC9YpXmoKmBfSD-WWi1YrV8GBAPsS/s1600/Alex+Honnold+in+Devil's+Bay,+NewFoundland-Photo+North+Face-Source+Gripped+Canada's+Climbing+magazine+facebook.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGY3_Wj5Srsz2Cc7UXG2iMy0M4pP3cpq2bu-_9OauLGyJtVD5w2AbOSH95XmSJH1OhEKyDxfq42SINfypipEA8ZG9XpKxQspmjOz5r1mU_QC2SVJGYp6vcPYl95io5xNfzU5PhBrqga3Vx/s1600/Andrew+Boyd+y+Sig+Isaac+on+the+Opal+in+Squamish,+photo+by+Rich+Wheater-multi-pitch+climbing,+endurance-source+Gripped+Canadas+climbing+magazine.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGY3_Wj5Srsz2Cc7UXG2iMy0M4pP3cpq2bu-_9OauLGyJtVD5w2AbOSH95XmSJH1OhEKyDxfq42SINfypipEA8ZG9XpKxQspmjOz5r1mU_QC2SVJGYp6vcPYl95io5xNfzU5PhBrqga3Vx/s1600/Andrew+Boyd+y+Sig+Isaac+on+the+Opal+in+Squamish,+photo+by+Rich+Wheater-multi-pitch+climbing,+endurance-source+Gripped+Canadas+climbing+magazine.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew Boyd and Sig Isaac on The Opal, Squamish (Canada).<br />
Photo: Rich Weather. Source: <a href="http://www.richwheater.com/rock-climbing/andrew-boyd-and-sig-isaac-the-opal-squamish-bc-4_9_13.html" target="_blank">www.richweather.com</a><span id="goog_1437524180"></span><span id="goog_1437524181"></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h2>
2.2. Discontinuous Methods</h2>
<b>2.2.1. What is it?</b><br />
In these methods the total time is <b>divided into parts called repetitions</b> or bouts, the intensity is <b>low-medium</b>, and the <b>rest time between repetitions are incomplete</b>. It is also known as interval training.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
The rationale for this method is that by dividing the time, each segment can be performed at a higher intensity than it would be if the activity was continuous.</blockquote>
The result is that <b>the load is more intensive</b>, and the<b> effects somewhat differen</b>t to the previous one. Furthermore, the <b>stimulus does not take place only during the climb, but also at the recovery time</b>. In fact, the original method used by long distance runners was based on the idea that the greater influence on cardiovascular performance took place during the pause for recovery, when the heart rate goes from 170-180 bpm down to 120-140 bpm. As readers of this blog already know, we won’t control the intensity by measuring our heart rate; we shall guess our muscle recovery by feeling how pumped our forearms are and how swollen they look, to get an idea of how capable they are to keep on doing medium and low intensity contractions.<br />
<br />
Among the panoply of discontinuous methods, we will use the following to develop capacity:<br />
<br />
<h3>
2.2.2. Long Interval Training</h3>
The term long (or “extensive”) refers to the typical low intensity-long duration load, by contrast with the high intensity (or intensive) variant that we will explain in the context of a different quality.<br />
<br />
<b>2.2.2.1. Recommended for</b><br />
- <i>early stage of the season for high </i>and very high level climbers.<br />
- <i>Specific Mesocycle</i> in the Season for low and medium level athletes who have already used the continuous method during the general mesocycle, and want to climb long (more than 15 minutes) routes, onsight routes longer than 20 meters or climb multi-pitch routes.<br />
- <i>high and very high level climbers who want to gain</i> or recover capacity during a specific time of the cycle.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVVG1xOj4D59qxs6OMLpx5ZD-Pt3AZoitEy-FRgivmh1XZWzgMQ0ORfgFkuIHTREsi1FC79834BFE14mpW4OvkGtcNCz3lHlcU3x2BDn3CZfPg9piuKwhCy7iN5rAyjSUljBJa6AF0BEQt/s1600/Lee+Smith+on+Bohica,+513b,+Red+River+Gorge,+Kentucky-photo+by+Nathan+Welton-source+facebook-stamina,+endurance.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVVG1xOj4D59qxs6OMLpx5ZD-Pt3AZoitEy-FRgivmh1XZWzgMQ0ORfgFkuIHTREsi1FC79834BFE14mpW4OvkGtcNCz3lHlcU3x2BDn3CZfPg9piuKwhCy7iN5rAyjSUljBJa6AF0BEQt/s1600/Lee+Smith+on+Bohica,+513b,+Red+River+Gorge,+Kentucky-photo+by+Nathan+Welton-source+facebook-stamina,+endurance.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long interval method can be used by medium and high level climbers during the general mesocycle to achieve the capacity that they will need to endure more intensive methods later in the specific mesocycle, and to increase their chance of sending their anaerobic-aerobic endurance/power-endurance projects. Picture: Lee Smith on Bohica, 5.13b, Motherlode, Red River Gorge, Kentucky (USA). Photographer: Nathan Welton. Source: <a data-ft="{"tn":"k"}" data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=153326148031702" href="https://www.nathanweltonphoto.com/" id="js_6v" target="_blank">Nathan Welton Photography</a></td></tr>
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<br />
<b>2.2.2.2. Characteristics (to be adjusted to level and goals*)</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Repetition duration: 4-5 to 20 minutes.</li>
<li>Recovery duration: 45 seconds to 3 minutes.</li>
<li>Total session volume (number of repetitions x repetition length): 8-60 minutes.</li>
</ul>
<b>Summing up:</b> 2-8 x 4'-20' : 45"-3' <span style="font-size: x-small;">(**)<br />(**) This reads: perform 2 to 8 repetitions, 4 to 20 minute-long each, and rest 45 seconds to 3 minutes between them (in this case we can assimilate repetitions to sets)</span><br />
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<h3>
2.2.3. What method to choose, continuous or long interval?</h3>
Sometimes our goals and level <b>won't be our only limitations, and other "practical" factors</b> will enter the equation:<br />
<br />
If our gym is basically a set of really steep overhangs and/or small holds and we are not able to stay for a long time on such wall, we will opt for the long interval method. But...<b> suppose that even resorting to shorter repetitions our physical sensations are harder than what is expected for this type of training; </b>then it will be long until we can train our capacity for real.<br />
<br />
[<i>Paradoxically, the most suitable method to begin training and climbing can't be performed at most of the climbing gyms that we have access to here in Spain]</i><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
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If we can only stay on the wall for a short time, then either we won't be able to develop our capacity, or we will need to resort to something else... like the intermittent method</div>
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When we are lower level climbers our finger flexor muscles lack the required maximum strength… every session can end up being a strength or endurance workout. To mitigate this situation I suggest a variant of the previous methods:<br />
<br />
<h3>
2.2.4. Intermittent Method</h3>
<b>2.2.4.1. What is it?</b><br />
It is a possibility for beginners, and for those who can't go to an "easy enough” wall. It can also be useful after an injury or prolonged resting periods.<br />
<br />
The <b>goal is to meet the time requirement</b>,<b> doing brief rests on the floor during which we will stop our watch.</b> It's the equivalent of "jogging" for runners. The workout could be like this:<br />
<blockquote>
You decide the total climbing time beforehand (a short one, 3-5 minutes) start your watch and begin climbing. When your forearms pain level is above 2 and it does not go down even by resting at a good jug, you go down to the floor and stop your watch; when the fatigue subsides, you start your watch again and resume climbing. Repeat until you meet the desired time.<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></blockquote>
<h2>
III. The million-dollar question: How many sets, repetitions and what pause do I choose?</h2>
When it comes to producing concrete numbers, something you would undoubtedly appreciate to start training right now,<b> I remind you that I am not in favor of one size fits all recipes</b>. This not only <b>goes against my vision of training (individualization and specificity), but also is inefficient</b>. It can lead to overtraining, or the opposite: staying below your threshold and getting no effects.<br />
<br />
But everyone needs a starting point... so <b>I will propose a basic guide
for volume</b>, set duration and recovery duration that is reasonable for
each sport level/training experience. <b>Use it, experiment and, from the
sensations you get, start </b>tailoring and planning your own training.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiHX25go_E4XtTKlnQmCRESLcDg1gQ5bXKuY3YALgrpjj_r5V5oxe7P6BcEwegiHNcAXIS0ElmXxYQPNTllxEJOd32dukRRCsKKzunYc4mw7ewFXUn0GB9Ra9YcKqGH9OX2AEf72z77fx/s1600/Luis+Alfonso+Felix,+Tres+cromosomos,+9_,+Oti%C3%B1ar,+Jaen-photo+by+Bernardo+Gimenez-stamina,+tufa,+endurance.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiHX25go_E4XtTKlnQmCRESLcDg1gQ5bXKuY3YALgrpjj_r5V5oxe7P6BcEwegiHNcAXIS0ElmXxYQPNTllxEJOd32dukRRCsKKzunYc4mw7ewFXUn0GB9Ra9YcKqGH9OX2AEf72z77fx/s1600/Luis+Alfonso+Felix,+Tres+cromosomos,+9_,+Oti%C3%B1ar,+Jaen-photo+by+Bernardo+Gimenez-stamina,+tufa,+endurance.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luis Alfonso Félix trying his project "Tres Cromosomos", 9?, Otiñar, Jaén (Spain). Picture: <a href="http://www.bernardogimenez.com/" target="_blank">Bernardo Giménez</a>. Fuente:<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Luis-Alfonso-Felix/198280967019460?fref=ts" target="_blank"> Luis Alfonso Felix facebook</a><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Luis-Alfonso-Felix/198280967019460?fref=ts" target="_blank"> page</a></td></tr>
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<br />
<h3>
3.1 Basic guide</h3>
<b>3.1.1. Number of repeats and total session volume</b><br />
In general, we can do longer sets and longer sessions:<br />
<ul>
<li><b>the more experienced</b> with this kind of training we are</li>
<li><b>if we have more endurance</b> than strength</li>
<li>the <b>higher our level</b> is</li>
<li>the <b>longer our project is</b>: it's not the same to train for a trip to Rodellar, where we can expect good rests and long climbs, to the Motherlode at Red River Gorge, or to the bouldery routes at Frankenjura, where these contents can even be unnecessary.</li>
<li><b>the longer the type</b> of climbing is: multi-pitch versus sport climbing, onsighting or working a route...</li>
</ul>
As an example, but without losing sight of the need for individualization, here there are some suggestions for total session volume:<br />
<br />
<b>From 8 to 12 minutes</b> (# of repetitions x repetition duration) for lower level or short training experience,<br />
<b>15-30 minutes</b> for medium level,<br />
<b>More than 40 minutes</b> for advanced,<br />
One hour or more for very high level or multi-pitch.<br />
<br />
In general, choose the workout time (continuous of discontinuous) and the number of repetitions looking at these two factors:<br />
<ul>
<li>Minutes and number of repetitions that<b> you can maintain the key</b> physical symptoms for.</li>
<li>Minutes and number of repetitions <b>that you have used</b> in the previous training cycle.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>3.1.2. Measuring Volume: Time vs Movements</b><br />
Perhaps you prefer to count movements instead of time; then keep in mind that doing a simple traverse on good holds takes 3-5 seconds per movement. Leading a previously set route, you spend up to 5 seconds to clip, and around 3 seconds to chalk up. If there is an anchor every 4 moves, a 20-move route that you already know takes about 2 minutes to climb. By contrast, 5 minutes of easy, not very technical traverse can add up to 100 movements.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnmgm3wq6fxZvYHqGqnGmvi1Ruz25MfICwpAfcciBi1fwNWO8EPqKRuoLL6HLRe4TM4dqHayY1udEbxYZbzH6ow4hVhgXK5Am7bXae2P1Nu0tBKsgOdL-jEcJut-_XORPPAJJXtQ1ardFF/s1600/Stone+Summit+Climbing+and+Fitness+Center,+Atlanta,+USA-rocodromo,+climbing+gym.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnmgm3wq6fxZvYHqGqnGmvi1Ruz25MfICwpAfcciBi1fwNWO8EPqKRuoLL6HLRe4TM4dqHayY1udEbxYZbzH6ow4hVhgXK5Am7bXae2P1Nu0tBKsgOdL-jEcJut-_XORPPAJJXtQ1ardFF/s1600/Stone+Summit+Climbing+and+Fitness+Center,+Atlanta,+USA-rocodromo,+climbing+gym.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To train Capacity, it's best to have access to a wall with relatively easy and homogeneous (in terms of angle, holds, and intensity) routes. <b>Photo</b>: <a href="http://ssclimbing.com/" target="_blank">Stone Summit Climbing and Fitness Center</a>, Atlanta, USA</td></tr>
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<br />
<b>In my case, I can only go to a bouldering gym</b>, so leading long indoor routes is not an option. That's in part why I prefer to count minutes, and <b>"self-point"</b> the moves instead of setting a route beforehand; this has its advantages:<br />
<ul>
<li>More accurate measure of volume</li>
<li>Focus on volume over intensity</li>
<li>Prevent overuse by not repeating the same moves over and over</li>
<li>Expand the technical repertoire</li>
<li>More finely tune the intensity during each set, instead of ending up unintendedly working a different quality because the route I set was too hard and I wanted to send it anyway<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b>3.1.3. How long must the rest period be? The recovery dilemma</b><br />
The rest period between repetitions has to be:<br />
<br />
<b>a) Incomplete</b>. It won't allow us to completely recover.<br />
<b>b) Enough</b>. It will allow us to do all the planned repetitions.<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
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In the <b>traditionally called "endurance" sports they use the ratios 1:1, 1:0.5, 1:0.25</b>, meaning the the rest is equal, half or a quarter of the exertion time. Although these formulas are valid when speaking about heart rate recovery (global factors), they are not suitable for factors related to recovery of strength or recovery of the local physiological levels typical of fatigue in climbing. Most of the time we will be able to use shorter pauses for almost every method. In general, the longer the training experience and the higher the level, the shorter the recovery can be tolerated and vice versa. Some examples:<br />
<ul>
<li>For 3 4-minute sets, try a 2' pause if you are of lower-medium level (3x4' easy climbing :2').</li>
<li>3x5' easy climbing :2' for medium level.</li>
<li>7x5' easy climbing :1' for high level.</li>
<li>4x8' easy climbing :90" for high level.</li>
<li>8x5' easy climbing :45" for very high level.</li>
<li>3x20' easy climbing :1' for very high level.</li>
</ul>
<h3>
3.2.(*) How to individualize after all this trying?</h3>
<b>There's no option but to analyze what of the different</b> combinations of # of repetitions, repetition and rest period is more adequate for our goal: complete the time, monitor the sensations. It can mean going beyond the margins I have proposed, or staying well inside these limits. (Never take the theory verbatim! Take a moment to think about how you really are, and you won't miss).<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
In any case, I<b> recommend a bit of modesty.</b> <b>Start with "easier" workouts and the least volume. You'll be able to progress from that point</b>. One <b>advantage of being new to a method</b> is that it provides noticeable gains [almost] regardless of the load. We will <b>improve even if we don't use the greatest volume or the shortest pauses</b>. The result is a more sustainable long-term development avoiding unnecessary effort and suffering, and perhaps even skipping some injuries.</blockquote>
<h2>
V. Summary of Methods for Developing Capacity in Climbing (also known as ARC)</h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clic the image to enlarge</td></tr>
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In this entry we have glimpsed how to distribute and plan the progression of these methods as the weeks and the training cycle pass, but we will go over this in more detail in the next post.<br />
<br />
<b>RELATED LINKS</b><br />
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html">Why we need to train Local Aerobic Endurance: Let the Numbers Talk</a></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/objectives-and-bases-for-designing.html">Objectives and Bases for Designing an Endurance Training Program in Sport Climbing</a></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/update-endurance-training-in-sport.html">Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (I). Physiological Adaptations</a></div>
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<div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/12/aerobic-endurance-training-in-sport.html">Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (II). Training Load Elements: Objectives, Intensity and Volume</a></div>
</div>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-48670581958330353962014-12-11T11:59:00.000+01:002018-03-09T12:14:27.240+01:00Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (II). Training Load Elements: Objectives, Intensity and Volume<br />
Versión en <a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/actualizacion-entrenamiento-de_27.html" target="_blank">español</a><br />
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<h2 style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;">
1. Objectives for Developing Capacity (also known as ARC)</h2>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;">
<br />
<b>a) Basic objective:</b> <b>Accumulate </b>during the training session many minutes staying on the wall, of actual climbing.</div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;">
<i>Recommended for</i> the beginning of a cycle, lower and medium level climbers, or those who don't have much experience with training in general.</div>
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<b>b) Advanced objective:</b> <b>Total depletion</b> at the end of the sets or the session.</div>
<div style="-qt-block-indent: 0; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;">
<i>Best for:</i> experienced or high level climbers, or those who have worked the previous objective long enough.</div>
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Dani Fuertes resting on La Rubia, 8c+, Villanueva del Rosario, Málaga. Picture: <a href="http://javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a></div>
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<h2>
2.Intensity</h2>
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p, li { white-space: pre-wra</style>We will use a <b>Low intensity.</b> More exactly, up to 25% of maximum grip force<span style="font-size: small;"> (To learn why we choose a % of maximum strength over maximal oxygen consumption or maximum heart rate like they do in other sports, <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/objectives-and-bases-for-designing.html?m=1" target="_blank">have a look at this entry</a>).</span></div>
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2.1 Why topping at 25% of maximum grip strength?</h4>
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We will lean on a number of related conclusions:</div>
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<b>a) Some authors suggest that 25% of MVC is the highest intesity</b> where the <b>aerobic metabolism </b>is still the main energy source (Fallentin et col., 1993; Byström, 1994; Kimura et col., 2006), and that is the one we want to optimize here (Usaj et col., 2007; Fryer et col., 2014).</div>
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<b>b) One of the stimuli</b> that lead to <b>changes in the blood vessels</b> surrounding certain muscle fibers (angiogenesis and arteriogenesis, see previous entry) <b>is the repeated and sustained increase of blood flow in the area</b> (Hudclicka et col., 1992; Prior et col., 1997, Egginton et col., 2001, Hounker et col., 2003) characteristic of aerobic exercise at the aforementioned intensities.</div>
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The growth of new blood vessels and the widening of existing ones aid in the development of aerobic endurance. <b>Climber</b>: Tommy Caldwell on Dawn Wall Project, El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, CA (USA). <b>Photo by</b>: Josh Lowell. <b>Source</b>: <a href="http://www.climax-magazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/CLIMAX-20_2.jpg" target="_blank">Climax magazine #20</a>.</div>
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One could think that <b>a higher demand on the muscles</b> would increase even more their need for energy and hence blood flow. <b>By the contrary, in isometric contractions maximal blood flow is registered at very low intensities:</b> around 10-25% of MVC. Past this, at 25-40%, the flow does not actually go up, and it even decreases if we go further (Barnes, 1980; Byström and Kilbom, 1990). Let's explain why:</div>
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<li><style type="text/css">
p, li { white-space: pre-wrap;</style>On the one hand there <b>has been found a direct association between the intensity of a contraction and blood flow</b> (Sjøgaard, Fagard & Fuel, 1988; Byström & Kilbom, 1990); also <b>between the duration</b> of a contraction <b>and blood flow during the interval</b> between contractions, as well as during recovery after exertion (Byström & Kilbom, 1990; Laughlin et col., 1999).</li>
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<ul>
<li>On the other hand, though, <b>the harder the contraction, the more intramuscular pressure </b>(Barnes et col., 1980; Sejersted et col., 1984; Thompson et col., 2007). When it comes to <b>isometric contractions a problem arises: the blood vessels get occluded</b> for several seconds, compromising nutrient exchange. This leads to a buildup of liquid as well. According to some authors, this explains isometric fatigue (Sjøgaard, Fagard & Fuel, 1988; Kalliokoski et col., 2003).</li>
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More specifically, <b>tests performed with a dynamometer on the muscles of the forearm </b>have found that the <b>blood occlusion starts at 30% of MVC, and is complete at 50-70%</b> (Barcroft & Miller, 1939; Barnes, 1980; Sjøgaard et col., 1998).</div>
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Mich Kemeter at Verdon (Francia). <b>Photo by</b>: Alex Buisse.</div>
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<b>Source</b>: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Gripped-Canadas-Climbing-Magazine/311883414568?fref=ts" target="_blank">Gripped Canada´s Climbing Magazine facebook page</a></div>
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2.2 The usual problem... How do we control the intensity during a training session?</h4>
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p, li { white-space: pre-wrap;</style>From a practical point of view, what kind of holds and what climbing styles do I have to favor?
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Looking at what <b>we have already seen we should go for holds that, being on a particular wall, wouldn't represent more than 25% </b>of our maximum grip strength.</div>
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<b>a) One possible solution would be to perform a test of maximum climbing time</b> on a certain kind of hold, and looking at the <b>relationship found </b>by Rohmert (1960) and confirmed by successive authors (Allison et col., 2004; Frey & Avin 2010; Looft, 2012)<b> between percentage of MVC during an isometric contraction and maximum duration</b> of such contraction. In short, the higher the intensity the quicker the exhaustion and vice versa. This can also be applied to the number of repetitions/sets in dynamic exercises:</div>
<ul>
<li>An isometric contraction at 10% of MVC can be held for about an hour,
</li>
<li>A 12% one about 40 minutes,
</li>
<li>Repeated intermittent contractions at 25% of MVC (10-second contraction / 2-second relaxation) can be sustained for 6-8 minutes.
</li>
<li>Around 30% the time drops to 2-4 minutes.</li>
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(Rohmert 1960, Byström, 1994; Allison et col., 2004; Frey & Avin 2010).</div>
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Maximum durations (minutes) for different intesity (%MVC) intermittent contractions (contraction time + relaxation time) and continuous contractions (Byström y Kilbom, 1990)</div>
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All these figures<b> have to be taken with a grain of salt,</b> though, because:</div>
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i) The <b>participants were untrained</b> people for whom the forearm muscles were not a key performance factor.</div>
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ii) There is <b>great variability in low intensity</b> endurance among individuals.</div>
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iii) The <b>dyamometer </b>is not considered a specific tool to measure maximum grip strength in climbing (Watss, 2004) neither to assess actual climbing performance. In this regard, we don't know about any climbing-oriented tests that measure maximum time for a wide variety of intensities during real climbing.</div>
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Recently López-Rivera, E. (2014) has put forward in her PhD thesis <b>a formula for estimating maximum hang-off duration as a function of edge depth</b> (6-14 mm) and sport level (6b+ to 8c+, n=36), but it is probably valid for higher intensities only (we will go over it in the entries about high intensity endurance) and it remains to be seen its application to actual climbing on holds of similar size to the test ones.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eva López. Photo by <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a></td></tr>
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The goal is to <b>find holds and walls</b> of a certain angle that allow us <b>to endure the programmed climbing time at </b><i>a low intensity</i>:</div>
<ul>
<li><b>For low-mid level or high volume sessions</b>, we will probably choose the <b>largest holds</b>, those deep enough to fit the entire fingers, with a positive and rounded profile (jugs), on vertical or less than vertical walls.<b> For higher levels the holds could be similar</b>, but the wall more steep or overhanging. Trying holds not so deep is a possibility. Anyway, each climber will have to test it...because as you already know, individualization and control of the training load is key for an effective training.
</li>
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We will learn to associate low intensity to a set of sensations that can be described as follows.
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2.2.2 Sensations related to the Physiological Effects of Capacity Training</h4>
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Several authors have assessed the validity of subjective scales of perception to control the intensity in different sports (Seyler, S. in Mujika, 2012 [editor]). To develop our Capacity we have to look for and maintain the following sensations:</div>
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<b>Local signs at the forearms:</b></div>
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<li><i>Moderate swelling and activation</i>, never stiffness and strong pumping. As we progress in time or sets we may need to shake off every 2-3 moves for 1-2 seconds.
</li>
<li><i>Some vasodilation</i> that can translate into "heat", reddening, bulging veins...
</li>
<li><i>Progressive "depletion"</i> (according to the objectives for the session).
</li>
<li><i>Mild pain.</i> Using the subjective scale from 1 to 5 developed by <a href="http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/?page_id=993" target="_blank">Binney & MacClure (2006)</a>, we should rate <b>at 1 or 2.</b></li>
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<b>Global signs:</b></div>
<ul>
<li><i>Light increase</i> in breath and heart rate, etc.
</li>
<li><i>Moderate perspiration.</i>
</li>
<li><i>As the session progresses,</i> especially at the end of every set, it is normal to notice our movements are "<i>slower</i>", perhaps due to some related factors: a) we start running out of glycogen and use slow-burning fatty acids, b) we need to save energy and the kind of holds we are using allows us to do that, and c) because this way we can relax the free hand a bit longer. When climbing easy parts our hand can stay free for about 0,5 seconds, but it can go up to 1-2 seconds if we climb slower, giving time to the forearm to recover and keep on functioning.
</li>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Note: In the future we will publish an entry discussing a proposal for a load control scale in climbing training.</span><br />
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3. Volume</h2>
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From <b>10 to 40-60 minutes</b>, attending to the use of continuous or interval methods, our level, our training experience, climbing projects and time of the season, etc.</div>
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<b>The next post </b>will expand on the continuous and interval methods, and will offer some guidelines to customize total volume, number of sets, rest pauses, etc.</div>
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<b>RELATED LINKS</b></div>
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<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html">Why we need to train Local Aerobic Endurance: Let the Numbers Talk</a></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/objectives-and-bases-for-designing.html">Objectives and Bases for Designing an Endurance Training Program in Sport Climbing</a></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/update-endurance-training-in-sport.html">Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (I). Physiological Adaptations</a></div>
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<b>RECOMMENDED READINGS</b></div>
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</ul>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal;"><b>Bechtel, S.</b> <i>Unlearning Endurance Training</i>, website: "Climb Strong"[on-line], Entry from January 21th, 2013. Available at: <a href="http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20130121_12">http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20130121_12</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Guyton, A., </b></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Hall, J. (2006). </b>Textbook of medical physiology, 11th.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal;"><b>MacLeod, D (2010)</b>. 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes: navigation through the
maze of advice for the self-coached climber. Rare Breed Productions. <b>(pp 85-89)</b>.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal;"><b>Randall, T</b> <i>Tricks of the endurance training trade,</i> website: "Tom Randall Climbing"[online], Entry from July 9th, 2012. Available at: <a href="https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/tricks-of-the-endurance-training-trade/">https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/tricks-of-the-endurance-training-trade/</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small; font-weight: normal;"><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Wilmore, JH </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Costill, DL (2004). </b>Physiology of Sport and Exercise. Human Kinetics.</span></span></b></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Allison, B., Desai, A., Murphy, R., & Sarwary, R. M. (2004). </b>Human potential of applying static force as measured by grip strength: Validation of Rohmert’s formula (Doctoral dissertation, Thesis. San Jose State University).</span></li>
<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Barcroft H, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Millen JLE (1939) </b>The blood flow through muscle during sustained contraction. J Physiol (Lond) 97:17--3</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Barnes WS. (1980). </b>The relationship between maximum isometric strength and intramuscular circulatory occlusion. Ergonomics 23: 351–357.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Binney, D, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>McClure, S (2006).</b> Aerobic and anaerobic power: Power endurance. Climb, 26, 64 66.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Byström, SEG, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Kilbom, Å (1990). </b> Physiological response in the forearm during and after isometric intermittent handgrip. European journal of applied physiology and occupational physiology, 60(6), 457-466. </span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Byström, S (1994).</b> Estimation of aerobic and anaerobic metabolism in isometric forearm exercise. Upsala journal of medical sciences, 99(1), 51-62.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Fallentin, N, Jørgensen, K, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Simonsen, EB (1993). </b>Motor unit recruitment during prolonged isometric<b> </b>contractions. European journal of applied physiology and occupational physiology, <b> </b>67(4), 335-341.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Frey Law, L. A., & Avin, K. G. (2010). </b>Endurance time is joint-specific: a modelling and meta-analysis investigation. Ergonomics, 53(1), 109-129. </span></li>
<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Scarrott, C., Lucero, A., Witter, T., Love, R., ...</b></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Draper, N. (2014)</b>. <span style="font-weight: normal;">Forearm<b> </b>oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. Journal of sports sciences, (ahead-of-print), 1-9.</span></span>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Hounker M, Schmid A, Schmidt-Trucksass A, Grathwohl D, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Keul J (2003). </b>Size and blood flow of central and peripheral arteries in highly trained able-bodied and disabled athletes. J Appl Physiol 95: 685–691.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Kimura, N, Hamaoka, T, Kurosawa, Y, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Katsumura, T (2006). </b>Contribution of intramuscular oxidative metabolism to total ATP production during forearm isometric exercise at varying intensities. TheTohoku journal of experimental medicine, 208(4), 307-320. </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Looft, JM (2012). </b>Modeling and validating joint based muscle fatigue due to isometric static and intermittent tasks</span>.</span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>López-Rivera, E (2014): </b><a href="https://ruidera.uclm.es/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10578/5402/TESIS%20L%C3%B3pez%20Rivera.pdf?sequence=1" target="_blank">Efectos de Diferentes Métodos de Entrenamiento de Fuerza y Resistencia de Agarre en Escaladores Deportivos de distintos Niveles (Tesis Doctoral)</a>. Programa de Doctorado en Rendimiento Deportivo,<b> </b>Universidad de Castilla-La Mancha, Toledo, España.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Rohmert, W, 1960. </b>Determination of the recovery pause for static work of man. Internationale Zeitschrift Fur<b> </b>Angewandte Physiologie, Einschliesslich Arbeitsphysiologie 18, 123-164.</span></span> </li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Seiler, S (2012). </b>Training Intensity Distribution, Chapter 4. En Mujika, I. (editor), Endurance Training (pág. 31-39). Bizkaia. I. Mujika. </span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Sjøgaard, G, Savard, G, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Juel, C (1988). </b>Muscle<b> </b>blood flow during isometric activity and its relation to muscle
fatigue. European journal of applied physiology and occupational physiology, 57(3), 327-335.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Sejersted OM, Hargens AR, Kardel KR, Blom P, Jensen O, </b></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span></span></b>Hermansen L. (1984)</b>. Intramuscular fluid pressure during isometric contraction of human skeletal muscle. J Appl Physiol 56: 287–295</span></span></li>
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<b><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><b>Thompson, B. C., Fadia, T., Pincivero, D. M., and Scheuermann, B. W. (2007)</b>. Forearm blood flow<b> </b>responses to fatiguing isometric contractions in women and men. <i>American Journal of Physiology-Heart and Circulatory Physiology</i>, <i>293</i>(1), H805-H812.</span></span></b></b></div>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Kalliokoski, K. K., Laaksonen, M. S., Takala, T. O., Knuuti, J., and Nuutila, P. (2003). </b>Muscle oxygen extraction<b> </b>and perfusion heterogeneity during continuous<b> </b>and intermittent static exercise. Journal of Applied Physiology, 94(3),
953-958.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Ušaj, A., Jereb, B., Robi, P., and von Duvillard, S. P. (2007)</b>.<b> </b>The influence of strength-endurance training on the oxygenation of isometrically contracted forearm muscles. European journal of applied <b> </b>physiology, 100(6), 685-692.</span></span></li>
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<li style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Watts, P. B. (2004). </b>Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European journal of applied physiology, 91(4), 361-372.</span></span></li>
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-47558110468235121242014-11-13T15:28:00.000+01:002018-03-09T12:14:27.197+01:00Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (I). Physiological Adaptations<br />
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<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/actualizacion-entrenamiento-de.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Up to 35 minutes to climb a</b><b> previously tried</b><b> route.</b><br />
<b>In occasions, up to 1 hour to onsight a route.</b><br />
<b>Most sport climbing routes take between 8 and 25 minutes.</b><br />
(<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html" target="_blank">Data from a study of my own</a>)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eva López on Fish Eye, 8c. Oliana. Picture by Vojtech Vrzba</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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As it was noted <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/objectives-and-bases-for-designing.html" target="_blank">in the previous entry</a>, rather than training some particular physical quality, it would be <b>more precise to speak of specific physiological effects from now on</b>. As a reminder, here there are the different aspects or objectives related to local aerobic endurance:<br />
<ul>
<li>Capacity (enduring long, low intensity climbs), also known as ARC</li>
<li>Efficiency or Steady State (negotiating moderate intensity-medium duration sections).</li>
<li>Quick Recovery.</li>
</ul>
In this entry we will go over the goals and aspects related to what can be called the Training Zone #1: Capacity. The others will be the subject of the next two.<br />
<ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: large;">A Definition of Capacity</span><br />
We can begin by stating that it <b>is the quality that allows us to sustain a long climb</b> (more than 15 minutes) with minimum fatigue. It can be described as the ability to keep our energy and strength, be it because <b>we spend some of our substrates (energy sources) more slowly or we replenish them faster</b>, or because <b>our muscle efficiency</b> at low intensity improves as a result of factors that we are going to learn.<br />
<br />
<b>Some activities that demand capacity</b> are multi-pitch routes, onsighting long or technical routes, or sorting out the moves of a hard route.<br />
<br />
<i>Beware!</i> Acknowledging its importance does not mean it has to be the only training goal for those activities. It would be like saying that a marathon runner just needs to run, not very fast, for a couple of hours...<br />
<br />
In the English-speaking world it <b>is also known as ARC</b> (Aerobic Energy Restoration and Capillarity), from Goddard and Neumann (1993) for reasons that will become clear (**see recommended readings below).<br />
<br />
<b>If you are still unclear of the impact of this aspect on your climbs, I suggest you time your next try to a route that you want to climb</b>. If you use more than 15 minutes to do it, or to sort out the moves, or to onsight it, it’s possible you will find useful the rest of this blog post.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-835e8ed2-a923-742f-3e58-d7ac011eaefb" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
Jose Luis Palao "Primo" on "La Planta de Shiva", L1, Villanueva del Rosario, Málaga.</div>
Phto by <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec</a>. Source: <a href="http://www.javipec.com/" target="_blank">Javipec Photo<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">.</span></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Physiological Changes in response to Capacity Training</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
At the physiological level, <b>according to the duration, intensity and particularities of the effort</b> (<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/objectives-and-bases-for-designing.html" target="_blank">local aerobic endurance of the small muscles in the forearm</a>), the development of Capacity in sport climbing can imply modest central (cardiovascular) development, but the bulk of the adaptations are both peripheral:<br />
<br />
<b> 1-CIRCULATORY ADAPTATIONS</b><br />
They allow for a <b>faster and optimal oxygen supply</b> to the muscle, as well as a <b>better removal, recycling and oxidation</b> of the products of muscle metabolism (*see glossary below) that have an influence on fatigue, like Pi, ADP, AMP, H+,NH4+, etc. These are the main ones:<br />
<br />
<b>a) Increased capillarization at the oxidative or slow twitch fibers (type I or ST)</b> due to the creation of new blood vessels (angiogenesis) as well as to the growth in diameter or caliber (arteriogenesis) (Anderson and Henriksson, 1977; Mizumo et col., 1990; Ferguson and Brown, 1997; Laughlin et col, 2006, 2008; Thompson et col., 2014).<br />
<br />
<b>These adaptations are among the most important for the development of endurance</b> in climbing according to several authors (MacLeod et col.,2007, Phillipe et col., 2011, Thompson et col., 2014 and Fryer et col., 2014). The explanation lies on the particularities of climbing:<br />
<br />
-The <b>big contrast between the long, intermittent</b>, high intensity isometric contractions needed for successive small, difficult holds (8-15 seconds)<b> and the short time between holds</b> (less than 0,5 seconds, 3 seconds if we are clipping or up to 5 second shakes in a good rest) (López, E., 2014, Doctoral Thesis).<br />
- The <b>mixing of high intensity sections </b>among medium and low intensity ones.<br />
- The <b>succession of movement and static positions (rest stops, clippings...)</b> where the climber tries to recover from fatigue.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Nmqy9XlVGOc7aHTl_WRE1A1lFD8IKBuFhCctUIWHxKByfusmanuXfKKubTmF0rLPuDYguTARWSm_Eqwl0bsJOqZgMAP6qPfzJwQXY1on8QY5H1KK2CiGtVhg2WxBr7n4iwxK16IwSuo/s1600/Lauren+Lee+making+the+second+ascent+of+Master+Blaster+513++Zion-Photo+by+Sonie+Trotter-Source+Gripped+Canada's+Climbing+Magazine+facebook+page-chapar,+continuidad,+clipping.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Nmqy9XlVGOc7aHTl_WRE1A1lFD8IKBuFhCctUIWHxKByfusmanuXfKKubTmF0rLPuDYguTARWSm_Eqwl0bsJOqZgMAP6qPfzJwQXY1on8QY5H1KK2CiGtVhg2WxBr7n4iwxK16IwSuo/s320/Lauren+Lee+making+the+second+ascent+of+Master+Blaster+513++Zion-Photo+by+Sonie+Trotter-Source+Gripped+Canada's+Climbing+Magazine+facebook+page-chapar,+continuidad,+clipping.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lauren Lee making the second ascent of Master Blaster 5.13+, Zion. Photo: Sonie Trotter. Source: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/311883414568/photos/pb.311883414568.-2207520000.1415907278./10153318924224569/?type=3&theater" target="_blank">Gripped Canada's Climbing Magazine facebook page</a></td></tr>
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<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>Some authors think that improved capillarization can positively influence oxygen supply and metabolite removal, resulting in faster recovery and the possibility of more effectively training power endurance (anaerobic endurance) later in the training program</b>; this will be addressed in a future blog post. These statements are supported by the significant positive correlation between # of capillaries per square millimeter and the number of repetitions at 70% of 1RM (Terzis et col., 2008), performance at tests with a duration of 30”-3’ (Iaia et col., 2011), recovery when doing short (40”) pauses between high intensity exercises (Tesch and Wright, 1983), and rate of recovery after 50 repetitions of leg extensions (Wright et col., 1983).</blockquote>
<b>b) Elevated threshold for sympathetic activation that promotes vasodilation after and during isometric contractions, and improves tissue perfusion</b> (Sinoway et col., 1987; Ferguson and Brown, 1997, Fryer et col., 2014). During muscle action, the buildup of some metabolites excites nerve endings that induce an activation of the sympathetic system (Sinoway, 1996; Mostoufi, 1998) that can affect efficiency it this response is too strong (this tends to happen when you are undertrained). It’s likely that this nerve excitation is reduced in climbers due to this increased threshold, but also because of lower hormone secretion at a given intensity, better tissue perfusion (Ferguson and Brown, 1997; Fryer et col., 2014 ) and, as we will learn later, an optimized aerobic metabolism.<br />
<br />
<b>2-MUSCLE ADAPTATIONS</b><br />
<br />
<u><b>2.1) Morphological adaptations</b></u><br />
These consist of structural changes in muscle fibers:<br />
<br />
<b>a) Increase in the mitochondrial* content of skeletal muscle</b>, i. e., # of mitochondria per mm2 of fiber (Hoppeler et col., 1985; Befroy et col., 2008).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinANco6xsilnt5LDaMhFx3jSRkqCkWwStcQutMEcG7NUAj6YxyKE6_4wqfecsBRY_P3TjhwpsmHTyHjZgePoeqXO2lkSVeKdKebmphWzOIsi0CsEdsOJ7fP3Nlpb_wa2_XaTYQ1ObEAVs/s1600/muscular+fibre+structure.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinANco6xsilnt5LDaMhFx3jSRkqCkWwStcQutMEcG7NUAj6YxyKE6_4wqfecsBRY_P3TjhwpsmHTyHjZgePoeqXO2lkSVeKdKebmphWzOIsi0CsEdsOJ7fP3Nlpb_wa2_XaTYQ1ObEAVs/s320/muscular+fibre+structure.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muscle fibre structure. </td></tr>
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<b>b) </b><b>Development of </b><b>Slow twitch (type I or ST) fibers</b>, both <b>relative </b>to fast fibers (Costill et col., 1976) in size (<b>hypertrophy</b>) (Mitchell et col., 2012) or in fiber recruitment pattern (Hawley and Stepto, 2001; Arnold y col., 2014). These fibers are more resistant to fatigue, which confers them a <b>vital role not only for maintaining strength at lower intensity for a long time, but also for recovering between intense efforts by helping “recycle” the lactate produced by their neighboring fast twitch (type II) fibers</b>. This takes place at resting points, but also while clipping (about 3 seconds), and even when we release a hold for more than one second; if we are bouldering, it helps recovering between tries. It’s worth noting, though, that these latter adaptations are better achieved through the other two local aerobic endurance goals (efficiency and recovery ability).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGjQzOu1-IYczZkvZpubHaXRXfQnEwVEaPv3Pcc_EnBRCmze7hCHnLUJZVA51W3IGEOxLndUwnEvXaYeh0c6gzKFqGx4a-SAZKJgWRI6yGBB_LqzvwCCaj5UzQpEBakS3KF-tFRrDriCb/s1600/Rannveig+Aamodt,+Red+River+Gorge,++Kentucky-foto+por+Carter+Agency-recovery,+stops,+endurance,+women.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGjQzOu1-IYczZkvZpubHaXRXfQnEwVEaPv3Pcc_EnBRCmze7hCHnLUJZVA51W3IGEOxLndUwnEvXaYeh0c6gzKFqGx4a-SAZKJgWRI6yGBB_LqzvwCCaj5UzQpEBakS3KF-tFRrDriCb/s1600/Rannveig+Aamodt,+Red+River+Gorge,++Kentucky-foto+por+Carter+Agency-recovery,+stops,+endurance,+women.jpg" height="264" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rannveig Aamodt, Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Picture by Carter Agency. Source: <a href="http://dailymail.co.uk/">dailymail.co.uk</a><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br class="kix-line-break" /></span></td></tr>
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<b>c) Increased muscle energy substrates</b>, in particular glycogen* and muscle triglycerides (Greiwe et col., 1999; Burgomaster et col., 2005; Burke 2010). One cause of fatigue during prolonged exertion is the depletion of glycogen deposits. On a related note, it has been observed that a big store of one energy source can make cells more reliant on said source (<i>mass action effect</i>); this adaptation can be important for multi-pitch and big wall climbers.<br />
<br />
<u><b>2.2) Metabolic adaptations</b></u><br />
Related to the improvement in glycogen and fat aerobic metabolism (especially in slow twitch fibers) that offsets the activation of the anaerobic pathway (lactate production) (Holloszy and Coyle, 1984); also to an increase in lactate clearance (lactate is continuously formed in some tissues like muscle and released from them, and its buildup is mitigated by lactate oxidation).<br />
<br />
<b>a) Increased oxidative enzyme* levels</b>; these are involved in the aerobic metabolism (Krebs cycle and electron transport) (Henrikson and Hickner 1993; Burgomaster et col., 2005), especially in type I (slow) fibers and type IIa or mixed fibers (that play a role in anaerobic endurance or power endurance). This elevation, together with greater vasodilation and capillary density (tissue perfusion) has been shown to be very important for isometric grip endurance (Fryer et col., 2014).<br />
<br />
<b>b) Increase in lactate transport proteins (MCT1)</b> that move lactate in and out of muscle fibers in order to oxidize it (lactate shuttle) (McCullagh et col., 1997; Everstsen et col., 2001, Thomson et col., 2005; Gladden 2008). This is part of the already mentioned lactate clearance.<span style="color: #231f20; font-size: 10pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;"><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQRgiVg6RBdiOl0_qEZNax1KYo6YpWF0km670K8cmDgMs5PPTSiRS3Qk9TjoylDXQ14C-ty6lVP7M0jPDh1Re7G-fX9qYRIs_MxodbUXntUSmuacUyCgVY8dLQAT4lXvTverYODYab60/s1600/Alex+Honnold+in+Devil's+Bay,+NewFoundland-Photo+North+Face-Source+Gripped+Canada's+Climbing+magazine+facebook.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSQRgiVg6RBdiOl0_qEZNax1KYo6YpWF0km670K8cmDgMs5PPTSiRS3Qk9TjoylDXQ14C-ty6lVP7M0jPDh1Re7G-fX9qYRIs_MxodbUXntUSmuacUyCgVY8dLQAT4lXvTverYODYab60/s320/Alex+Honnold+in+Devil's+Bay,+NewFoundland-Photo+North+Face-Source+Gripped+Canada's+Climbing+magazine+facebook.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex Honnold climbing in Devil's Bay, NewFoundland. Photo: North Face. Source: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/311883414568/photos/pb.311883414568.-2207520000.1415907257./10153406032264569/?type=3&theater" target="_blank">Gripped Canada's Climbing magazine facebook page</a></td></tr>
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<b>c) Increase in glucose transport proteins (GLUT4)</b> that move glucose into muscle fibers to quickly use it (García Manso et col., 2006). In combination with the promotion of <b>glycogen synthase</b> (an enzyme involved in glycogen creation), <b>it makes for a faster replenishment</b> of glycogen when depleted after a high-volume or intense workout (Ryder et col., 1999).<br />
<br />
<b>d) Elevated fat oxidation at intensities that previously would have required glycogen (greater reliance on fat oxidation)</b>, <b>resulting in “<i>savings</i>”</b> of the latter (Kiens et col., 1993; Hawley et col., 1998; Burke et col., 2001). As we already know <b>we need our glycogen for the hardest sections</b>, because fat metabolism is not fast enough to cover the rate of energy consumption that are demanded (Brooks and Mercier, 1994); fat metabolism is ideal for long, low intensity tasks.<br />
<br />
Ok, this is all fine, but by now some of you will be growing impatient, just wondering: How do I have to train to achieve these effects? Well, this will be the topic of the next two entries (Load Variables, Training Methods and Planning), soon to be published.<br />
<br />
<b>*GLOSSARY</b><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>ATP </b>or adenosine triphosphate: It is the foremost energy transporter in the body. It acts as a kind of “energy currency”, transferring energy to other molecules by losing a phosphate group (adenosine diphosphate or ADP). ADP in turn can accept chemical energy in the form of a phosphate group to transform back into ATP (oxidative phosphorylation). Structurally it’s a nucleotide formed by adenosine (one adenine molecule bonded to a five-carbon sugar: ribose) combined with three inorganic phosphates (Pi) through high-energy bonds; that’s why breaking those bonds releases a big amount of energy.<br /><br /><b>Enzymes: </b>Proteins that facilitate decomposition of chemicals (carbohydrates, fats and proteins) to obtain energy for bodily functions like muscle contraction.<br /><br /><b>Glycogen:</b> The way the body stores its glucose. Structurally is a glucose polysaccharide stored in the liver and muscles until it is needed. The process by which it gets degraded (oxidized) to obtain energy is called glycolysis. The inverse, when it is resynthesized from several glucose molecules is called glycogenesis.<br /><br /><b>H+:</b> Hydrogen protons, product of ATP hydrolysis. Its buildup along with other metabolites’ is related to one type of muscle fatigue. It usually accretes when there is a high power demand (energy per time unit), when the aerobic metabolic pathway is underdeveloped or when the energy substrates are depleted.<br /><br /><b>Mitochondria:</b> It’s the organelle responsible for energy production inside the cell using the aerobic pathway (aerobic oxidative metabolism).<br /><br /><b>Metabolism:</b> Set of physical and chemical processes that take place in the body with two functions: a) obtaining energy from food and storing it in ATP form and b) producing compounds and creating or replacing structures. When the generation of ATP (energy acquisition) is done without using oxygen it is called anaerobic metabolism; when oxygen is used it is aerobic or oxidative metabolism.<br /><br /><b>NH4+:</b> Ammonium. Product from the metabolism of phosphagens (ATP and phosphocreatine).</span><br />
<br />
<b>RELATED ENTRIES</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html">Why we need to train Local Aerobic Endurance: Let the Numbers Talk</a><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/objectives-and-bases-for-designing.html" target="_blank">Objectives and Bases for Designing an Endurance Training Program in Sport Climbing</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>**RECOMMENDED READINGS TO EXPAND AND IMPROVE YOUR KNOWLEDGE</b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Goddard, D., and Neumann, U. (1993). </b>Performance rock climbing. Stackpole Books. <b> (pp. 105-106; 121-124)</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>MacLeod, D. (2010).</b> 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes: navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber. Rare Breed Productions. <b>(pp. 87-88)</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>McArdle, W., Katch, F. I., y Katch, V. L. (1990). </b>Exercise Physiology: Nutrition, Energy and Human Performance. LWW. <b>(chapters 6, 7, 15, 16, 18) </b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Randall, T. </b><i>Tricks of the endurance training trade,</i> website "Tom Randall Climbing" Entry from July 9th, 2012. Available at: <a href="https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/tricks-of-the-endurance-training-trade">https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2012/07/09/tricks-of-the-endurance-training-trade</a>/</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Wilmore, J. H., and Costill, D. L. (2004). </b>Physiology of Sport and Exercise. Human Kinetics. (<b>chapters 4, 5, 6 and 9)</b></span></li>
</ul>
<b><br /></b>
<b>REFERENCES</b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Allison, B., Desai, A., Murphy, R., and Sarwary, R.M. (2004)</b>. Human potential of applying static force as measured by grip strength: Validation of Rohmert´s formula. San Jose University </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Andersen, P., and Henriksson, J. (1977)</b>. Capillary supply of the quadriceps femoris muscle of man: adaptive response to exercise. The Journal of physiology, 270(3), 677-690.</span></li>
<li><div class="gs_citr" id="gs_cit0" tabindex="0">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Arnold, A. S., Gill, J.,
Christe, M., Ruiz, R., McGuirk, S., St-Pierre, J., ... & Handschin,
C. (2014)</b>. Morphological and functional remodelling of the neuromuscular
junction by skeletal muscle PGC-1α. <i>Nature communications</i>, <i>5</i>.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Brooks and Mercier, J. (1994).</b> Balance of carbohydrate and lipid utilization during exercise: the" crossover" concept. Journal of Applied Physiology, 76, 2253-2253.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Burgomaster, K. A., Hughes, S. C., Heigenhauser, G. J., Bradwell, S. N., and Gibala, M. J. (2005).</b> Six sessions of sprint interval training increases muscle oxidative potential and cycle endurance capacity in humans. Journal of applied physiology, 98(6), 1985-1990.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Costill, D. L., Daniels, J., Evans, W., Fink, W., Krahenbuhl, G., and Saltin, B. (1976).</b> Skeletal muscle enzymes and fiber composition in male and female track athletes. J Appl Physiol, 40(2), 149-154. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Befroy, D. E., Petersen, K. F., Dufour, S., Mason, G. F., Rothman, D. L., and Shulman, G. I. (2008)</b>. Increased substrate oxidation and mitochondrial uncoupling in skeletal muscle of endurance-trained individuals. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 105(43), 16701-16706.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Evertsen, F., Medbø, J. I., and Bonen, A. (2001).</b> Effect of training intensity on muscle lactate transporters and lactate threshold of cross‐country skiers. Acta Physiologica Scandinavica, 173(2), 195-205.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Ferguson, R. A., & Brown, M. D. (1997). </b>Arterial blood pressure and forearm vascular conductance responses to sustained and rhythmic isometric exercise and arterial occlusion in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects. European journal of applied physiology and occupational physiology, 76(2), 174-180. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Frey Law, L. A., and Avin, K. G. (2010)</b>. Endurance time is joint-specific: a modelling and meta-analysis investigation. Ergonomics, 53(1), 109-129.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Fryer, S., Stoner, L., Scarrott, C., Lucero, A., Witter, T., Love, R., ...and Draper, N. (2014).</b> Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. Journal of sports sciences, (ahead-of-print), 1-9.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>García Manso, JM; Vitoria Ortiz, M; Navarro Valdivielso, F; Legido Arce, JC (2006)</b>. La resistencia desde la óptica de las ciencias aplicadas al entrenamiento deportivo. Grada Sport Books.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Gladden, L. B. (2008).</b> A lactatic perspective on metabolism. Medicine and science in sports and exercise, 40(3), 477-485.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Goddard, D., and Neumann, U. (1993).</b> Performance rock climbing. Stackpole Books. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Greiwe, J. S., Hickner, R. C., Hansen, P. A., Racette, S. B., Chen, M. M., and Holloszy, J. O. (1999)</b>. Effects of endurance exercise training on muscle glycogen accumulation in humans. Journal of Applied Physiology, 87(1), 222-226.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Hawley, J. A., Brouns, F., and Jeukendrup, A. (1998).</b> Strategies to enhance fat utilisation during exercise. Sports Medicine, 25(4), 241-257.</span></li>
<li><div class="gs_citr" id="gs_cit0" tabindex="0">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Hawley, J. A., & Stepto, N. K. (2001)</b>. Adaptations to training in endurance cyclists. <i>Sports Medicine</i>, <i>31</i>(7), 511-520.</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Holloszy, J. O., and Coyle, E. F. (1984). </b>Adaptations of skeletal muscle to endurance exercise and their metabolic consequences. Journal of applied physiology, 56(4), 831-838.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Hoppeler H., Howald H., Conley K., Lindstedt S.L., Claasen H., Vock P. and Weibel E.R. (1985).</b> Endurance training in humans: aerobic capacity and structure of skeletal muscle. J Appl Physiol; 59(2):320-7.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Iaia, F. M., Perez-Gomez, J., Thomassen, M., Nordsborg, N. B., Hellsten, Y., and Bangsbo, J. (2011).</b> Relationship between performance at different exercise intensities and skeletal muscle characteristics. Journal of applied physiology, 110(6), 1555-1563.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Karpp, J.R. (2000).</b> Interval Training for the Fitness Professional. National Strength & Conditioning Association, 4(22), 64–69</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Kiens, B., Essen-Gustavsson, B., Christensen, N. J., and Saltin, B. (1993).</b> Skeletal muscle substrate utilization during submaximal exercise in man: effect of endurance training. The Journal of Physiology, 469(1), 459-478.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Laughlin, M. H., Cook, J. D., Tremble, R., Ingram, D., Colleran, P. N., and Turk, J. R. (2006).</b> Exercise training produces nonuniform increases in arteriolar density of rat soleus and gastrocnemius muscle. Microcirculation, 13(3), 175-186. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>López-Rivera, E. (2014)</b>: Efectos de Diferentes
Métodos de Entrenamiento de Fuerza y Resistencia de Agarre en
Escaladores Deportivos de distintos Niveles (Tesis Doctoral).</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Programa de Doctorado en Rendimiento Deportivo, </span>Universidad de Castilla-La Mancha, Toledo, España.</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b> </b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>MacLeod, D., Sutherland, D. L., Buntin, L., Whitaker, A., Aitchison, T., Watt, I., ... and Grant, S. (2007). </b>Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. Journal of sports sciences, 25(12), 1433-1443.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Mitchell, C. J., Churchward-Venne, T. A., West, D. W., Burd, N. A., Breen, L., Baker, S. K., and Phillips, S. M. (2012)</b>. Resistance exercise load does not determine training-mediated hypertrophic gains in young men. Journal of applied physiology, 113(1), 71-77.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Mostoufi-Moab, S., Widmaier, E. J., Cornett, J. A., Gray, K., and Sinoway, L. I. (1998).</b> Forearm training reduces the exercise pressor reflex during ischemic rhythmic handgrip. Journal of applied physiology, 84(1), 277-283.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Philippe, M., Wegst, D., Müller, T., Raschner, C., & Burtscher, M. (2012)</b>. Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. European journal of applied physiology, 112(8), 2839-2847. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Ryder J. W., Kawano Y., Galuska, D., Fahlman R., Wallberg-Henriksson H.T., Charron M. J., and Zierath J. R. (1999). </b>Postexercise glucose uptake and glycogen synthesis in skeletal muscle from GLUT4-deficient mice. The FASEB Journal, 13(15), 2246-2256. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Sinoway, L., Shenberger, J., Leaman, G., Zelis, R., Gray, K., Baily, R., and Leuenberger, U. (1996)</b>. Forearm training attenuates sympathetic responses to prolonged rhythmic forearm exercise. Journal of Applied Physiology, 81(4), 1778-1784.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Stanula, A., Roczniok, R., Maszczyk, A., Pietraszewski, P., and Zając, A. (2014)</b>. Te role of aerobic capacity in high-intensity intermittent efforts in ice-hockey. Biology of Sport, 31(3), 193.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Terzis, G., Spengos, K., Manta, P., Sarris, N., and Georgiadis, G. (2008)</b>. Fiber type composition and capillary density in relation to submaximal number of repetitions in resistance exercise. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 22(3), 845-850.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Tesch P., Wright J.E. (1983).</b> Recovery from short term intense exercise; its relation to capillary supply and blood lactate concentration. Eur. J. Appl. Physiol.;52:98-103</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Thomas, C., Perrey, S., Lambert, K., Hugon, G., Mornet, D., and Mercier, J. (2005).</b> Monocarboxylate transporters, blood lactate removal after supramaximal exercise, and fatigue indexes in humans. Journal of Applied Physiology, 98(3), 804-809 </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Thompson, E. B., Farrow, L., Hunt, J. E., Lewis, M. P., and Ferguson, R. A. (2014)</b>. Brachial artery characteristics and micro-vascular filtration capacity in rock climbers. European journal of sport science, (ahead-of-print), 1-9. Published online: 28 Jul 2014</span></li>
</ul>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-81078870531901642252014-09-21T19:35:00.000+02:002018-03-09T12:14:28.006+01:00Objectives and Bases for Designing an Endurance Training Program in Sport Climbing<br />
<br />
Versión en <a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/09/actualizacion-objetivos-y-bases-de.html" target="_blank">español</a><br />
<br />
As it was hinted in the previous entry,<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html" target="_blank"> to perform at certain routes or climbing spots we need to train one kind of endurance</a> that French climbers call <i>continuité</i> (<i>continuidad</i> in Spanish), and in the English-speaking world is called <i>endurance</i>, <i>stamina</i> or <i>local aerobic endurance</i>; I will explain later on why I prefer the latter.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">What are we talking about? A definition of Local Aerobic Endurance</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Could this forearm belong to someone who is working their local aerobic endurance? Keep reading and find out...</td></tr>
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Some define it as the ability to:<br />
<br />
- <b>Recover </b>from one try to a route to the next, and also at resting points during a climb<br />
- Climb long, easy-medium intensity sections <b>without getting overly </b>pumped<br />
- Climb a <b>long route</b>, climb a <b>lot of routes</b> or try the same route several times during one day.<br />
<br />
The routes we tend to associate with this quality <b>lack a very hard crux and are usually long</b>. For example, they are <b>25-30+m long, have 60-80 moves</b> or take <b>more than 20</b> minutes to ascend even when we know the moves.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Local Aerobic Endurance and Energy Systems</span><br />
<br />
Attending to its <b>main metabolic source of energy</b>, long duration and low intensity, some authors place it within <b>aerobic endurance, that relies on the oxidative system</b>. Others go a bit further and point the <b>low volume of muscle that is involved (less than 1/6-1/7 of the total</b>). So they use the -more accurate- term <b><i>local aerobic endurance</i></b> or<i><b> local aerobic-anaerobic endurance</b></i>.<br />
<br />
<b>We still have to acknowledge one fact: it is possible to deduce</b> what the main energy source is for a given section of a climb, attending to several factors (hold depth, overhang angle, speed, duration, etc.). <b>But sport climbing as an aggregate is an intermittent sport</b>; there is movement and there are stops, there are easy and hard segments, there is holding and releasing... this makes for an assortment of metabolic and physiologic characteristics. Among them, <b>anaerobic alactic and aerobic metabolism (Bertucci et col., 2007), are the most important</b>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;">Chart adapted from Guidi (1999)</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">A note on terminology</span><br />
Why does the 'local' qualifier make the term more accurate? Because <b>it reminds us that the criteria that are useful when dealing with other sports of similar</b>
duration to indoor competitive climbing (like running 1500 or 3000m) or
onsighting a rock route (like running 10k or swimming 1500m) <b>are not applicable to sport climbing</b>. <br />
<br />
The reason is that <b>those sports involve a big (more than 1/6 of the total) volume of muscle, and the load they have to displace represents a low percent of the maximum strength</b> of the implicated muscles. One consequence is the need for an increased blood flow. Therefore, cardiovascular endurance, also known as aerobic power (measured through maximal oxygen uptake -VO2max-) and aerobic capacity (performance at or close to lactate threshold) are more relevant than the local or muscular factors.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Physiological Demands of Sport Climbing</span><br />
In fact, during progressive climbing sets (steepness) in a treadwall (Schöffl et col., 2006) no point was found after which lactate accumulated exponentially as it happens in other sports: the increase was merely linear. <b>These authors concluded</b> that blood lactate can show the evolution of a climber in a given route, but <b>we can't talk about a 'lactate threshold' per se</b>. It can be argued that these results may vary if reducing hold size was used as the way to increase difficulty instead of running the treadwall faster or steeper... anyway: given the small absolute amounts of lactate measured and the particular characteristics of our fatigue (that can't be explained by acidosis alone), it could be even more fitting to talk about 'local fatigue threshold' (term coined in honor to the interesting conversations with my colleague P. Bergua) than about 'lactate threshold'.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjtKfjl9qe45GmAqeIwMXWG_mRukUV1HDRGBwxHDi5V0hrXhmXzWLpw6eYGs6KPXmOgmZdvW0W3Gr1dHTPzN7nQuPIztZPsTfU7EA0Om1h7gSeHzDySuKkgvvbRpV1018BRdyEN50UNe6/s1600/Luis+Alfonso+felix+en+palestina,+9a,+cuenca,+septiembre+2013-foto+por+javipec-resistencia,+desplome.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjtKfjl9qe45GmAqeIwMXWG_mRukUV1HDRGBwxHDi5V0hrXhmXzWLpw6eYGs6KPXmOgmZdvW0W3Gr1dHTPzN7nQuPIztZPsTfU7EA0Om1h7gSeHzDySuKkgvvbRpV1018BRdyEN50UNe6/s1600/Luis+Alfonso+felix+en+palestina,+9a,+cuenca,+septiembre+2013-foto+por+javipec-resistencia,+desplome.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luis Alfonso Félix on Palestina, 9a (Cuenca). Photo: <a href="http://javipec.blogspot.com.es/" target="_blank">Javipec</a> </td></tr>
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So, even if it has been shown that a <b>3 to 5 minute climb achieves a considerable fraction of the VO2max obtained in a treadmill</b> (70-85%; Billat et col., 1995; Lehner, 2000; De Geus, 2006), and this has led many authors to suggest that climbing depends a lot on aerobic metabolism (Billat et col., 1995; Booth et col., 1999; Watts and Drobish, 1998), <b>this in no way means that climbing is an 'Aerobic Power' sport,</b> like the rhythmic, uniform and global ones mentioned above.<br />
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There is even data that shows that <b>climbers who train their cardiovascular endurance through unspecific aerobic endurance exercises </b>(running, cycling...) take less time to recover their heart rate between climbing sets (Schöffl et col., 2006); and <b>we can go as far as suggesting a method for aerobic power development specific of climbing </b>(later in the series we will see how and for whom this would make sense). Nonetheless this hasn't been enough to show that this is a key performance factor in climbing (Billat et col., 1995; Watts et col., 2004; España-Romero et col., 2009). Instead, what has been proposed as a key quality is the local or peripheral factor, specifically the strength-endurance to intermittent isometric contractions of the finger flexors (Billat et col., 1995; Watts, 2004; Schöffl et col., 2006).<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>Summing up:</b><i> Climbing is an intermittent sport that involves a lot of isometric action of small muscles that have to bear most of the body's mass, and these realizations are capital for understanding fatigue and developing training methods accordingly.</i></blockquote>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrea Cartas training at Kletterhallewien (Vienna). Photo: Carlos Padilla</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">How do we work our flexors' local aerobic endurance?</span><br />
<br />
<b>We can't use blood lactate, heart rate or VO2max to evaluate </b>or choose a training method, because these parameters <b>have not been shown to be representative of intensity</b> in climbing (Koestermeyer, 2000; Michailov 2002; Schöffl et col. 2006; Burnik and Jereb, 2007). Then, what factor do we use to train not only local aerobic endurance, but also other forms of endurance?<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i><b>Intensity will be a function of what fraction</b> <b>of our maximum strength we need to grab a hold </b>(given by its depth, shape, texture...) along with grip duration (a function of foot- and handhold distribution, clipping points...) in a given route (steepness, etc.) (López-Rivera, 2014).</i></blockquote>
The logical conclusion is that we need<b> to choose holds of a size that allows us to maintain the activity and sensations </b>associated to local aerobic endurance for the required time on a climbing surface (with its own overhang, hold distribution, etc.).<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Planning for Local Aerobic Endurance: Bases</span><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>We usually hear about </b>high volume and low intensity training, with many sets of easy, homogeneous climbing and short rests, or climbing many rock routes in a day, etc.<br />
<br />
<b>We are not going to discuss here some popular methods</b> (like 4x4's) or other methods put forward by different authors. We won't learn how to train local aerobic endurance in general, because I believe it to be too simplistic.<br />
<br />
What we are going to do is reviewing what <b>I think are the 3 specific goals or the 3 aspects</b> that determine the training of this quality.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Why?</b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Because<b> in my opinion this will allow us to define it more accurately</b>, allowing us to guide our work more effectively. Analyzing what effects we want to achieve in each case (what route we want to climb, our level, modality we practice, etc.) will make it easier to choose a method for each mesocycle and macrocycle.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Training your Local Aerobic Endurance: Goals</span><br />
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<b>GOAL #1: Make our forearms capable of completing a climb without getting 'depleted'.</b><br />
<br />
In other words, enhancing <b>CAPACITY, </b>also known among climbers as <b>ARC</b> (aerobic energy restoration and capillarity)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1iycoMyTn86XKFDtdvX30Xe48zbsTuRMl-hV8Uv5o3PT5lfo1WHUUZxIEC3D0qZr64crFW5uE9m8M-3l9i4DkrTb14i8Jj_rkPt3W_lQnoEDiFNRtJ_Sym2EzI5If4C46kYzKNBGAP0Q/s1600/Via+margalef.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT1iycoMyTn86XKFDtdvX30Xe48zbsTuRMl-hV8Uv5o3PT5lfo1WHUUZxIEC3D0qZr64crFW5uE9m8M-3l9i4DkrTb14i8Jj_rkPt3W_lQnoEDiFNRtJ_Sym2EzI5If4C46kYzKNBGAP0Q/s320/Via+margalef.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris Sharma on "Jumbo Love", 9b. Clark Mountain (USA).<br />
Photo: Boone Speed. Source: www.petzl.com</td></tr>
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<br />
<b>GOAL #2: To be able to conserve our strength through long, low- to mid-intensity sections.</b><br />
<br />
To put it another way: reducing fatigue and pumped forearms on easier parts, no matter their length.<br />
We can refer to this goal as STEADY-STATE (negotiating moderate intensity-medium duration sections), or <b>EFFICIENCY </b>or economy of movement (okay, we are venturing into the realm of technique, but who says these things are unrelated?)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGdxFTGwqdwPh_YYpQ4zkh9xbkPtdCvehurx-QfIgiG4_eMqqennWcIgms1D3OSSAgl9V0S3W_FVgtOJ-H8p3W4xMr6qZqPh832p5giUfbXvH031klFe4SWWqCSwBR3ZYXKmRxPE7ZGBI/s1600/Emily+Harrington+-+Red+River+Gorge+-+foto+por+Keith+Ladzinski+-+fuente+flickr.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGdxFTGwqdwPh_YYpQ4zkh9xbkPtdCvehurx-QfIgiG4_eMqqennWcIgms1D3OSSAgl9V0S3W_FVgtOJ-H8p3W4xMr6qZqPh832p5giUfbXvH031klFe4SWWqCSwBR3ZYXKmRxPE7ZGBI/s320/Emily+Harrington+-+Red+River+Gorge+-+foto+por+Keith+Ladzinski+-+fuente+flickr.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emily Harrington - Red River Gorge - Photo: Keith Ladzinski - Source: http://flickr.com</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">This goals' importance (and the first one's, not only because it helps developing #2)</span> is supported by the suggestion that climbing time to exhaustion (España-Romero et col., 2009) and economy (España-Romero et col., 2009 and 2011; Bertuzzi et col., 2007; Baláš et col., 2013) -defined as the least energy expenditure per move at a given intensity- are key performance factors.<br />
<br />
<b>GOAL #3: ABILITY TO RECOVER</b><br />
<br />
This quality <b>is a requirement of the heterogeneous and intermittent nature</b> of rock climbing, and there are several reasons why this can determine performance:<br />
<br />
- <b>Reducing the time</b> spent resting shortens effective climbing time, which influences energy economy, efficiency and capacity.<br />
<br />
-<b> It takes less time to recover</b> from hard moves, not only at good rests, but also while moving, when we shake our free arm, or even while chalking up! <b>Our chances will improve when facing</b> the crux because of the<b> fast phosphagen repletion</b> (an energy substrate for high intensity efforts), optimal oxygenation and recycling-elimination of fatigue-related metabolites. We will also be able to give the same route more tries during one day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeku3uiOuVvmxU2yM85YGqZ-N_amOoCOMd05gyhI4KDaS20cowv8vEOv8S5jA9SnxAaczMAUEPcVUFGxYMOykN6j-2HdKQlXwCdJINEYZlg_7ayicC6UXtbkB7w-Os3HWTb4a78ivpUC-/s1600/Brent+-+Perkins.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeku3uiOuVvmxU2yM85YGqZ-N_amOoCOMd05gyhI4KDaS20cowv8vEOv8S5jA9SnxAaczMAUEPcVUFGxYMOykN6j-2HdKQlXwCdJINEYZlg_7ayicC6UXtbkB7w-Os3HWTb4a78ivpUC-/s320/Brent+-+Perkins.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Brent Perkins on Proper Soul, 5.14a - Picture:Taylor Strohmeyer. Source<span class="Apple-style-span">: <a href="http://brentperkins30.blogspot.com/">http://brentperkins30.blogspot.com/</a></span></span></td></tr>
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At the metabolic level it could be described as a <b>combination of the aerobic and anaerobic pathways</b>. According to the terminology that is popular among climbers, these goal fits somewhere between endurance and power-endurance.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">General guidelines for goal-based periodization according to level and training phase</span><br />
<br />
We need to<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html" target="_blank"><b> take into account the characteristics of our project</b> (distribution of hard moves, steepness, length)</a>, our <b>climbing level, training experience and personal qualities</b>; these will inform your choice of goals, which one to prioritize, or even why you must ignore all of them for the time being! Always keep in mind the training <b>principles of individualization and specificity.</b><br />
<br />
<b>LOWER LEVELS: Earlier training stages and Beginners</b><br />
At this stage we <b>will focus on Goal #1</b>, because when we start training or climbing we tend to <b>lack enough capacity</b> (Bertuzzi et col., 2007), probable due to poor technique and low finger strength. Some telling signs of insufficient capacity are getting exhausted before sorting all the moves of a route in one try, having limited 'energy' to climb several routes even if they are easy or familiar and getting pumped too soon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_9G8BUVDQW_kvsk0SNzM3onGEie3NKOwVHPIGIPhmynH89mIzpXFLjPtU__7OV7eRwJdC9YyXNtS-D7S4ANE1z74QAY8cJOYIjI0P11j4dF7xM1g8BENs_OV-2IDFmezIVxEZhFwaj3pi/s1600/Edu+Marin+-+A+muerte+8c9a+-+siurana.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_9G8BUVDQW_kvsk0SNzM3onGEie3NKOwVHPIGIPhmynH89mIzpXFLjPtU__7OV7eRwJdC9YyXNtS-D7S4ANE1z74QAY8cJOYIjI0P11j4dF7xM1g8BENs_OV-2IDFmezIVxEZhFwaj3pi/s320/Edu+Marin+-+A+muerte+8c9a+-+siurana.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edu Marín on"A muerte", 8c+/9a. Siurana. Photo: Israel Macià. Source:www.desnivel.com</td></tr>
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<b>INTERMEDIATE LEVELS</b>/<b>medium training stages</b><br />
Once the previous stage is taken care of, <b>it is possible to begin training for Goal #2</b>. Here we will develop our Efficiency, meaning the ability to climb at low-mid intensity without getting too pumped, or feeling pain or stiffness in our forearms.<br />
<br />
<b>HIGHER LEVELS</b><br />
Advanced climbers, <b>once they have addressed</b> the previous goals both through their sport career and during the season, can proceed to <b>methods aimed to achieving Goal #3</b>, being able to recover their forearms in record time, while climbing and also from route to route.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZJYNSIHBGyrqXEZ0B2nfdJpGG8lnkG9FERj25W0LqnxahgGSzTgCDB3lxL-uSyHFPN_ix3eD4UQpeyDnTrcxpw4Ps2XbppZ2UYgBy-Hcs1ua_PggHZMOh74L6914Rq1rfTUMMumRoO59/s1600/20071111_125246+%255Brodellar%255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZJYNSIHBGyrqXEZ0B2nfdJpGG8lnkG9FERj25W0LqnxahgGSzTgCDB3lxL-uSyHFPN_ix3eD4UQpeyDnTrcxpw4Ps2XbppZ2UYgBy-Hcs1ua_PggHZMOh74L6914Rq1rfTUMMumRoO59/s320/20071111_125246+%255Brodellar%255D.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eva López on Géminis, 8b+. Rodellar. Photo: Dafnis Fernández</td></tr>
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<b>Regarding the way these methods are arranged in the training plan</b>, the first two goals will build the foundation to develop the third more effectively. The latter (or the two first for lower-intermediate level climbers), combined with that other quality that we know as 'power-endurance' ('resistànce' in French), will translate into improved performance when it comes to endurance.<br />
<br />
This said, I need to remind everyone that we can't ignore other qualities: boulder, finger strength, etc. We also have to choose our goals and associated methods for each of them.<br />
<br />
The <b>description of the different training methods</b> that are indicated for the fulfillment of each Goal will be the <b>topic of the next entries.</b><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>RELATED ENTRIES:</b><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/08/why-we-need-to-train-local-aerobic.html" target="_blank">why we need to train our Local Aerobic Endurance: the numbers speak</a><br />
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2014/11/update-endurance-training-in-sport.html">Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (I). Physiological Adaptations</a></div>
<br />
<b>RECOMMENDED READINGS TO EXPAND AND IMPROVE YOUR KNOWLEDGE</b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Bechtel, S. </b><i>Unlearning Endurance Training</i>, in website: "Climb Strong"[on-line], entry from January 21th, 2013. Available at: <a href="http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20130121_12">http://www.climbstrong.com/articles/20130121_12</a><b><br /></b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Goddard, D., y Neumann, U. (1993).</b> Performance rock climbing. Stackpole Books.<b> (105-106)</b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>MacLeod, D. (2010).</b>
9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes: navigation through the
maze of advice for the self-coached climber. Rare Breed Productions.<b> (pág 85-86) </b></span></li>
</ul>
<b>REFERENCES</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Baláš, J., Panáčková, M., Strejcová, B., Martin, A. J., Cochrane, D. J., Kaláb, M., ... and Draper, N. (2014)</b>. The Relationship between Climbing Ability and Physiological Responses to Rock Climbing. The Scientific World Journal </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Bertuzzi, R. C., Franchini, E., Kokubun, E., and Kiss, M. (2007).</b> Energy system contributions in indoor rock climbing. European journal of applied physiology, 101(3), 293-300. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Billat, V., Palleja, P., Charlaix, T., Rizzardo, P., and Janel, N. (1995).</b>
Energy specificity of rock climbing and aerobic capacity in competitive
sport rock climbers. Journal of Sports Medicine and Physical Fitness,
35(1), 20-24</span></li>
<li><div class="gs_citr" id="gs_cit0" tabindex="0">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Booth, J., Marino, F., Hill, C., </b></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span>Gwinn, T. (1999).</b> Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers. <i>British Journal of Sports Medicine</i>, <i>33</i>(1), 14-18.<b> </b></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b> </b></span></div>
</li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Burnik, S., and</b></span><b> Jereb, B. (2009).</b> Heart rate as an indicator of sport climbing intensity. <i>Acta Universitatis Palackianae Olomucensis. Gymnica, 37(1), 63-66</i></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>de Geus, B., O’Driscoll, S. V., </b></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span>Meeusen, R. (2006)</b>. Influence of climbing style on physiological responses during indoor rock climbing on routes with the same difficulty. European journal of applied physiology, 98(5), 489-496. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>España-Romero, V., Porcel, F. B. O., Artero, E. G., Jiménez-Pavón, D., Sainz, A. G., Garzón, M. J. C., </b></span></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span> Ruiz, J. R. (2009</b>).
Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in
high-level sport climbers. European journal of applied physiology,
107(5), 517-525.</span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Guidi, O. (1999)</b>. Les filières énergétiques en escalade. Revue education physique et sport, 276:15-19</span>.</li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Köstermeyer, G. (2000)</b>. Strength endurance
training for elite rock climbers. High Performance seminar por British
Mountaineering Council, Plas y Brenin (Wales, UK)</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Lehner, C. (2000).</b> Etude de l’intervention relative des differentes filiêres énergétiques en escalade sportive. Sport Belgique. 170:12-20.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>López-Rivera, E. (2014)</b>: Efectos de Diferentes Métodos
de Entrenamiento de Fuerza y Resistencia de Agarre en Escaladores
Deportivos de distintos Niveles (Doctoral </span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Thesis</span></span>, unpublished).</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Programa de Doctorado en Rendimiento Deportivo, </span>Universidad de Castilla-La Mancha, Toledo, España.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Michailov, M.L., (2002).</b> Difficulties controlling the training load in sport climbing. In: Sports, Society, Education, Vol 8. Sofia: Tiptoppres: 253-258.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Schöffl, V. R., Möckel, F., Köstermeyer, G., Roloff, I., </b></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>and </b></span> Küpper, T. (2006). </b>Development
of a performance diagnosis of the anaerobic strength endurance of the
forearm flexor muscles in sport climbing. International journal of
sports medicine, 27(03), 205-211.</span> </li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Watts, P. B. (2004).</b> Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European journal of applied physiology, 91(4), 361-372</span></li>
</ul>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-20677426326222768462013-11-05T21:36:00.003+01:002018-03-09T12:14:26.608+01:00About All-Female Climbing Events...<br />
<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/11/sobre-los-encuentros-solo-para.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a><br />
<br />
I've never been much into "women-only" events. As a climber, <b>being in the company of other women wasn't something I needed</b> to improve my motivation or my performance, and I tended to think that other female climbers would think likewise. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="195" id="imgMain" src="https://thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/ArticleImageHandler.ashx?id=6379&index=0&w=605&h=434" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Women's Climbing Symposium 2013. Photo: <a href="http://archclimbingwall.com/" target="_blank">The Arch Climbing Wall</a>.<br />
Source: <a href="https://thebmc.co.uk/womens-climbing-symposium-2013-report" target="_blank">https://thebmc.co.uk/</a></td></tr>
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<b>Then I got invited to</b> the <a href="http://www.womensclimbingsymposium.com/#!news-2/cxea">Women's Climbing Symposium </a>and <b>learned about the reasons behind</b> its conception, and my point of view shifted.<br />
There is a set of common problems regarding motivation, that in turn <b>influence how (some) girls enjoy, persist, get frustrated or give up</b> some activity; from this realization it became clear that -as researchers from the same field or employees from the same company do-, it <b>made a lot of sense for women to share their common motivation, exchange points of view and develop plans</b> of action.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJw5HwJ2TP6vPbbU1SU8BSyAAoaMgzp4eCcI0GVHIYftFzaKNUrv2jFHGdtO-3yFkZasjgrRaVPs2ZmGDmpIImErNHGFQYMXEpVoN9b_-2pQ8dyHvZfDTjlOHwgalDsU37gMbTfekvdc/s1600/logo+womens+climbing+symposium+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJw5HwJ2TP6vPbbU1SU8BSyAAoaMgzp4eCcI0GVHIYftFzaKNUrv2jFHGdtO-3yFkZasjgrRaVPs2ZmGDmpIImErNHGFQYMXEpVoN9b_-2pQ8dyHvZfDTjlOHwgalDsU37gMbTfekvdc/s320/logo+womens+climbing+symposium+2013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.womensclimbingsymposium.com/" target="_blank">Women's Climbing Symposium </a>is an all-female event dedicated to connecting, developing
and inspiring women in climbing. This year took place at The Arch Climbing Wall (London)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The way I see it, events like this are especially useful for <b>detecting what the actual handicaps for female climbers</b> are, and <b>why some of those "vanish"</b> when a bunch of us get together. The latter probably have their <b>roots on gender stereotypes</b>: motivations for sport participation, motivational orientation, fear of falling, perceived self-efficacy, etc.<br />
But <b>there are other, "purely" physical factors</b>, like upper body strength and % body fat that, being predictors of performance in female climbers, <b>can determine the priorities for women climbers as a group</b>.<br />
With this in mind, it would <b>be ideal to provide the attendees with strategies/ideas</b> to put into practice <b>when they return</b> to their "usual environment", with their partners or mates.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-VIHdjziHOH-zAOrzTKgJcRjLIR5K3lNdvOvrKiJa79APS6SW_oyQ2aRT63AS2bsXs4TtEHd3bnZR54NzascRjCEQOyOaNyJqEmdR-AJ8z92PshnSnDrbp61TK5XLl4zasEYlpUJUkc/s1600/Eva+Lopez,+WCS,+London+2013,+Key+Performance+Indicators+for+Female+Climbers.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9-VIHdjziHOH-zAOrzTKgJcRjLIR5K3lNdvOvrKiJa79APS6SW_oyQ2aRT63AS2bsXs4TtEHd3bnZR54NzascRjCEQOyOaNyJqEmdR-AJ8z92PshnSnDrbp61TK5XLl4zasEYlpUJUkc/s1600/Eva+Lopez,+WCS,+London+2013,+Key+Performance+Indicators+for+Female+Climbers.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<b>The talk I gave was my little contribution</b> towards that goal. My intention is to push the matter forward here in my blog or... perhaps before a live audience somewhere else ;-)<br />
<br />
<b>My thanks go to all </b>those enthusiastic girls that taught me so much with their questions, and specially to Lucía, who helped me translating my talk (you are the best!). And my congratulations to the <b>organizers</b>: Steph Meysner <span style="font-size: small;">(<span class="color_15">Climber and co-owner of </span><a href="http://www.theclimbinghangar.com/" target="_blank"><span class="color_25">The Climbing Hangar</span></a>)</span>, <a href="http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/" target="_blank">Shauna Coxsey</a> <span style="font-size: small;">(<span class="color_15">Professional athlete; three times British Bouldering Champion, World 3rd</span>)</span> and <a href="http://archclimbingwall.com/" target="_blank">The Arch Climbing Wall</a> crew. Huge congratulations also to the <a href="http://www.womensclimbingsymposium.com/#!news/cnyl" target="_blank">rest of coaches and speakers</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnF9cxbDpQwFMoCMP9AmYKL86l2pr_8H62FRUCsf5TliqMkWFXpYpTcc27iZKm5BRB65AliQoxr_QKwvnM_RG77DLUQ5pvwaoaO8DMyLc1tWpzOX-vV8cgmKjVyEBebbpLCmM1QYjMp7g/s1600/Shauna,+Emilia,+Steph+-+WCS13,+The+Arch+Climbing+Wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnF9cxbDpQwFMoCMP9AmYKL86l2pr_8H62FRUCsf5TliqMkWFXpYpTcc27iZKm5BRB65AliQoxr_QKwvnM_RG77DLUQ5pvwaoaO8DMyLc1tWpzOX-vV8cgmKjVyEBebbpLCmM1QYjMp7g/s1600/Shauna,+Emilia,+Steph+-+WCS13,+The+Arch+Climbing+Wall.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shauna, Emilia, and Steph. Nice to meet you. <span class="userContent">I hope that we will meet again</span>! Source: <a href="http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/2013/11/wcs13/" target="_blank">Shauna's website</a></td></tr>
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Thank you for inviting me. It's been a pleasure and a honor being there with all of you and feeling part of this initiative!<br />
<br />
<b>LINKS RELATED</b><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/97828193@N06/sets/72157637278855624/" target="_blank"><span style="color: #c243da;"></span></a><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.thebmc.co.uk/womens-climbing-symposium-2013-report" target="_blank">BMC Report</a> </span>by Katy Dartford<span style="color: black;"></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.shaunacoxsey.co.uk/2013/11/wcs13/" target="_blank">Shauna Coxsey's website</a><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/11/about-all-female-climbing-events.html"></a></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://cruxcrush.com/2013/11/05/womens-climbing-symposium-2013/" target="_blank">Crux Crush Report</a> by Zofia A. Reych</span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68482" target="_blank">UKC Report</a></span> by Paul Phillips<br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.averybusylife.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/womens-climbing-symposium-wcs-2013.html" target="_blank">Goryonline Report</a> by Zofia A. Reych</span><br />
<span style="color: black;">Report on<a href="http://www.averybusylife.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/womens-climbing-symposium-wcs-2013.html" target="_blank"> a Very Busy Life blog</a> by Ali Ingleby</span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.womensclimbingsymposium.com/" target="_blank">2013 Women's Climbing Symposium website</a></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/thewomensclimbingsymposium?fref=ts" target="_blank">Women's Climbing Symposium's facebook page</a> </span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/97828193@N06/sets/72157637278855624/" target="_blank">More pictures </a></span>Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-50638949166969885782013-08-04T18:56:00.000+02:002018-03-09T12:14:27.288+01:00Why we need to train Local Aerobic Endurance: Let the Numbers Talk<br />
<br />
<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2010/12/por-que-necesitamos-entrenar-la.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a> (original del 31 diciembre de 2010)<br />
<br />
I'll try to answer this question with data gathered in a field study that I'm carrying out with the aim of finding in a scientific manner the basis for training in our sport. Researchers have suggested that one of the keys to an effective methodology is specificity. Part of this specificity is matching the work-rest pattern and physiological demands of that sport (Meckel et al., 2009; White & Olsen, 2010).<u><br /></u><br />
<u><br /></u><b>
Video analysis and direct observation</b> provide us with a great deal of useful information, and have been regularly used for a long time now when it comes to team sports. More recent is their application to individual sports similar to ours, those where the environment (outdoors) is not standardized and the effort is intermittent, like surfing (Mendez-Villanueva & Bishop, 2005).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmryw7sefwrllyWByN0JXltGeQag5DlAYhhgHqB7AzDhCqNBf9Tnd8p0CRU81pmBSojJCpE2kDTHY3lAdhST_mt_2nOHChhLYj8LxtG8QUGrOP7aYzFvBGLQxjs0s7NLILyS96zSeQzB7/s1600/Dani+Andrada+-Era+Bella+9a+-+Foto+Bernardo+Gimenez+de+desnivelcom.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikmryw7sefwrllyWByN0JXltGeQag5DlAYhhgHqB7AzDhCqNBf9Tnd8p0CRU81pmBSojJCpE2kDTHY3lAdhST_mt_2nOHChhLYj8LxtG8QUGrOP7aYzFvBGLQxjs0s7NLILyS96zSeQzB7/s320/Dani+Andrada+-Era+Bella+9a+-+Foto+Bernardo+Gimenez+de+desnivelcom.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-2ae2b9fb-4369-a29e-5705-70cc6eb56f01" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
Dani Andrada."Era Bella", 9a. Margalef.</div>
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Picture: Bernardo Giménez. Source:www.desnivel.com</div>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">FIELD STUDY: Time-Motion Analysis of Rock Climbing, in the case of attempting a route previously practiced.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br />Materials and Methods</span><br />
<br />
<b>Participants: </b>3 male and 1 female climbers. Level from 8c to 9a<br />
<b>Materials</b>: Chronometer, pencil, notebook<br />
<br />
<b>PROCEDURES: PROTOCOL FOR COLLECTING DATA</b><br />
<b>Methodology:</b> Direct observation of each participant while the actual climb took place, or later on recorded video<br />
<b>Observed action:</b> Attempts at sending a route that the participant had worked previously; the quickdraws were in place already. There were considered worth measuring those tries where the climbers had already optimized their methods and automated the sequences through previous work of the whole route (in eight occasions the data gathering coincided with the climber linking the route)<br />
<b>Routes</b>: 15 routes from 8b to 9a across different climbing sites<br />
<b>Crags:</b> Cuenca, Margalef (Tarragona), Oliana (Lleida), Oñate (Álava), Otiñar (Jaén), Rodellar (Huesca) and Villanueva de Valdegovía (Álava)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11toZkJwqdsjK8YdcxYJGPeuZmfEkJW4TzGK0rCHubUKT1zHpzfhQLGEwdr7RM1nbZY2kzhD6TefMOo8kJg63YaQqzW8AwXQKdgMAp6dNsOvPTwPo6D4ye6I4LbojJLLdHQvQHVcCTkUw/s1600/carlos+logro%25C3%25B1o+en+algarve+-foto+por+david+munilla.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11toZkJwqdsjK8YdcxYJGPeuZmfEkJW4TzGK0rCHubUKT1zHpzfhQLGEwdr7RM1nbZY2kzhD6TefMOo8kJg63YaQqzW8AwXQKdgMAp6dNsOvPTwPo6D4ye6I4LbojJLLdHQvQHVcCTkUw/s320/carlos+logro%25C3%25B1o+en+algarve+-foto+por+david+munilla.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carlos Logroño at Algarve (Portugal). Picture by David Munilla</td></tr>
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</div>
<br />
<b>THE FOLLOWING VARIABLES</b> were measured in this study:<br />
- <b>Climbing duration for each section of the route</b>, a section being delimited by resting points or standing points<br />
- <b>Total climbing time:</b> sum of all section durations. It is the total time spent progressing or ascending the route, and also clipping.<br />
- <b>Time at each resting point: </b>this did not include resting on the harness after a fall. A resting point was defined as holding a "good" hold with the aim of lowering the fatigue caused by the previous section so that the climb can be prolonged.<br />
- <b>Total resting time: </b>sum of all resting point times.<br />
- <b>Total stay on the route:</b> total climbing time plus total resting time.<br />
-<b> Number of rest points</b><br />
- <b>Number of climbing sections</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0gxRfLh_MLMqaJhxc_rxwYENpCOs0YphZ95a5DNvF_UOTjpe9W2masDovv33YGOztG2dzXwd16a4-Qr5hUyqLqcvXW3_OKjBOxb-SWMQRk5ki_HRQFusMl3ISHW_xABd6YDTw2cPwpiJ/s1600/Reposando.+Sector+La+Turbie+-+Monaco.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0gxRfLh_MLMqaJhxc_rxwYENpCOs0YphZ95a5DNvF_UOTjpe9W2masDovv33YGOztG2dzXwd16a4-Qr5hUyqLqcvXW3_OKjBOxb-SWMQRk5ki_HRQFusMl3ISHW_xABd6YDTw2cPwpiJ/s320/Reposando.+Sector+La+Turbie+-+Monaco.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petr Bláha resting on "Patate d'or" at La Turbie (Mónaco, France). Photo<span style="font-size: x-small;">: Monika Knoppová.<i> </i>Source: <a href="http://www.lezec.cz/reference.php?print=1&ckat=&key=6139" target="_blank">Lezec.cz</a><i><br /></i></span></td></tr>
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</div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Results</span><br />
<br />
<b>1- The shortest recorded stay duration was 5' 34''</b> on a strength-endurance route less than 25 m high; the<b> longest was 35' 34''</b> on a route more than 30 m high, by a climber with more endurance than maximum strength.<br />
<br />
<i>Most of the climbs were between 8' and 25' (the average was 16' 18''</i>±<i>8' 33'')</i><br />
<br />
2- During most of the climbs, <b>35% to 58% of the time was spent resting</b> (average of total resting times = 46,6±12,2%)<br />
<br />
<b>3- The shortest total resting time was 1' 45'' </b>(31,4% of the total stay time) on a strength-endurance route less than 25 m high;<b> the maximum of 27' 50''</b> (78,3% of the total stay time) was recorded on a route longer than 30 m for a climber with more endurance than maximum strength<br />
<br />
<b>4- In most of the routes the number of resting points was 2-8</b> (the average was 5±3)<br />
<br />
5- When comparing <b>different climbers on the same route there is a great variability</b> in the total resting time, according to each person's strength and endurance levels; this had a direct impact over the total stay time (pearson correlation = 0,95), and presumably over the final level of general fatigue<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlUSm0lbRUGVyhZuQvAYbn4_n_mcN-4ghTW52zxuLTxyloa70kBZiUgycvW3BDgXsjuDLozV7DdyLCA-fo4sftIIhzc5DItKWFsBGeLfn3Rr1hxWP6I_ybbo9PbO78I9zFaIGchyphenhyphencggrI/s1600/Dani+Andrada+-+La+Esencia+de+la+Resistencia+8c%252B+-+Las+Bruixes.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlUSm0lbRUGVyhZuQvAYbn4_n_mcN-4ghTW52zxuLTxyloa70kBZiUgycvW3BDgXsjuDLozV7DdyLCA-fo4sftIIhzc5DItKWFsBGeLfn3Rr1hxWP6I_ybbo9PbO78I9zFaIGchyphenhyphencggrI/s320/Dani+Andrada+-+La+Esencia+de+la+Resistencia+8c%252B+-+Las+Bruixes.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Dani Andrada on "La Esencia de la Resistencia", 8c+. Las Bruixas (Lleida). Picture: Pete O'Donovan.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">Conclusions</span><br />
<br />
We must keep from extrapolating these data to the general climbing population and to every type of route: the sample of routes is tiny, and all the climbers are of a high level. Nonetheless, we can glimpse some fundamental ideas that arise from them:<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>1- Rock climbing is a sport with a intermittent or non-continuous character, where there is an alternance of:</b><br />
<br />
- <b>Displacement and standing phases</b>: when progressing along the route or stopping to rest (on the wall) between sections.<br />
- <b>Intensities</b>: In the same route we usually find a mix of easy, moderate and hard sections.<br />
<br />
<b>2- The total stay time during a sending attempt in some routes, can be long (up to 35 minutes)</b> and the <b>time spent resting between hard sections can be a high percentage of the total time (min 31%, max up to 78%</b>)</blockquote>
<br />
<b>Not to mention climbing onsight</b>, or when we still don't know the route well and unclimb to then climb again until we are exhausted, or <b>when fear or doubt arise</b>... In these cases we can stay on the route much longer than what I described above, sometimes more than one hour!<br />
<br />
Other climbers on other routes can experience the opposite, t<b>hey do not have enough endurance and can't afford to stop between sections...like beginners.</b><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCr2PuvcMn_O2p20744N305n2015V_eIXkGhncbJOhbO1ze8AsRE8mneaBxzQsDXZZ4s4KBGMwKKwHLc494BAa1dkJ25l5giVfVwoJ4MGNXTCArvtB1-zUGlWPOOeULnl7l7yY652o1Ttb/s1600/yuyi2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCr2PuvcMn_O2p20744N305n2015V_eIXkGhncbJOhbO1ze8AsRE8mneaBxzQsDXZZ4s4KBGMwKKwHLc494BAa1dkJ25l5giVfVwoJ4MGNXTCArvtB1-zUGlWPOOeULnl7l7yY652o1Ttb/s320/yuyi2.jpg" width="218" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yuyi Hirayama on White Zombie, 8c. Baltzola (Guipuzcoa). <span class="st">Photo: desnivelpress.com</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><span style="font-size: large;">Summing up</span><br />
<br />
All these characteristics of rock climbing should help us define our training.<br />
<br />
So,<b> if we stay for so long on a route, </b>and much of that time we are trying to rest off a decent hold... and <b>if we want to climb the easier sections without getting very pumped.</b>.. then we need to develop the ability to do so.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: large;">We need to work on our local aerobic endurance<span style="font-size: x-small;">*</span></span></blockquote>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">*AKA Stamina, Aerobic Endurance, easy endurance, ARC...or in French: Continuité, and in Spanish: continuidad</span><br />
<br />
So, if you are among those who climb at sites where routes tend to be long, or you don't have strength to spare and need to spend a lot of time resting because the harder sections feel really exhausting, I ask you:<br />
<br />
Do you train it enough? or, better yet:<br />
Are you really developing it when you think you are?<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4n7tR403who8NLVd808zV3eFZNmp_wSOUK7YTyPBoWTUl06MGNivO2_z34skycDseBFRiHv4Rcd1kTc0JJtwFepvC9cn9oPwQ3Sr5H0XCZFpdB9GVTRrJWzBbHuj8U8kaUtfJFnAEebMP/s1600/mrazek+imst+climbing+cup+world.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4n7tR403who8NLVd808zV3eFZNmp_wSOUK7YTyPBoWTUl06MGNivO2_z34skycDseBFRiHv4Rcd1kTc0JJtwFepvC9cn9oPwQ3Sr5H0XCZFpdB9GVTRrJWzBbHuj8U8kaUtfJFnAEebMP/s320/mrazek+imst+climbing+cup+world.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.tomasmrazek.cz/" target="_blank">Tomáš Mrázek</a>. World Cup, Imst (Austria)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>How many moves</b>,<b> how long </b>are your endurance sets at the gym?<br />
<br />
<b>What's the total volume in minutes</b> or movements that you perform during an typical endurance workout?<br />
<br />
<b>Do you know how long it takes to do the usual 20-30 movement set at the gym,</b> neither clipping, nor slowing down at technical sections, and climbing sideways instead of upwards... what most of use to do?<br />
<br />
... And <b>then is the issue of how intense the set was, and how long the pause</b> before the next one...<br />
<br />
<b>Perhaps it is due to a methodology or planning error</b> (something we will look at in the future), or because we are simply not training it, that <b>you spend weeks at the gym</b>, thinking that your endurance must have improved, and then, when finally you can go to the crag... you realize that you don't only suffer from the lack of adaptation to the rock, where the holds are harder to see and smaller, but also that you<b> get pumped very fast</b> even though the individual moves feel really easy...<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjemeFmPSmeGCd9ZLdFTbZPtrTjYKwgzY0JVXKQFR9SpO00yT6hJpkdifEEeIvg3PFxYoQhSmBgap3KODndJaj6KXEahX2TeYrO9wx3-LB8hkSBaumSlliTjdOohKcPCtODfqgR42PYsV5j/s1600/EVAENL%257E1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjemeFmPSmeGCd9ZLdFTbZPtrTjYKwgzY0JVXKQFR9SpO00yT6hJpkdifEEeIvg3PFxYoQhSmBgap3KODndJaj6KXEahX2TeYrO9wx3-LB8hkSBaumSlliTjdOohKcPCtODfqgR42PYsV5j/s320/EVAENL%257E1.JPG" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eva López on Paraula de Stone, 7c+/8a. Montgrony. Picture by Dafnis Fernández</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Has this ever happened to you?<br />
<br />
Update your training, your sensations, and draw your own conclusions.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
If one key factor for an effective training is matching the characteristics of the sport it is oriented to, shouldn't we study our own climbs and the routes we want to climb so that we get a higher confidence that our training is well oriented? </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
</blockquote>
So you know: you just need a stopwatch, a pencil and a notebook!<br />
<br />
Happy analyzing and, with a bit of luck... happy insights!<br />
<br />
<b>NEXT ENTRIES:</b><br />
Training Objectives and Basis for Periodization for Local Aerobic Endurance<br />
Local Aerobic Endurance Training Methodology (I): How to develop Capacity<u> </u><br />
<br />
<b>REFERENCES<span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Meckel Y., Machnai O., & Eliakim A. (2009)</b>.
Relationship among repeated sprint tests, aerobic fitness, and
anaerobic fitness in elite adolescent soccer players. The Journal of
Strength & Conditioning Research, 23(1), 163-169.</span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b> </b></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Mendez-Villanueva A., Bishop D., & Hamer P. (2006).</b> Activity Profile of World-Class Professional Surfers During Competition: Acase Study. The Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 20(3), 477-482.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>White D. J., & Olsen P. D. (2010)</b>. A
time motion analysis of bouldering style competitive rock climbing. The
Journal of Strength & Conditioning Research, 24(5), 1356-1360.</span></li>
</ul>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-56520056519714706012013-07-02T12:30:00.003+02:002018-03-09T12:14:27.381+01:00Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: Coping Strategies (III)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2009/07/ansiedad-competitiva-estrategias-de_16.html" target="_blank"> Versión en español</a><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVhd5RoqCiggs3h-MwsJP-d4KZgCT7gtI4_ckY2Gn98NjQSOOBH_iaRhTs2fsVuJ-qQeS_k9uwpKFC300e-eVkhjzfgPH3oqhcr3MYMIM0AUCQkqfL4fDWENPCkG80Qk64EGnAXf6c_AZ/s1600-h/Luis+Alfonso+Felix+-+El+Calvario+del+Sicario+8c_%2Bcuenca+20071111.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358088743727553090" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVhd5RoqCiggs3h-MwsJP-d4KZgCT7gtI4_ckY2Gn98NjQSOOBH_iaRhTs2fsVuJ-qQeS_k9uwpKFC300e-eVkhjzfgPH3oqhcr3MYMIM0AUCQkqfL4fDWENPCkG80Qk64EGnAXf6c_AZ/s400/Luis+Alfonso+Felix+-+El+Calvario+del+Sicario+8c_%2Bcuenca+20071111.JPG" style="display: block; height: 440px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 294px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luis Alfonso Félix. El calvario del sicario, 8c/+, Cuenca (Spain). Photo: <a href="http://javipec.blogspot.com.es/" target="_blank">JaviPec</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Some authors have tried to define what the <b>most frequently used coping strategies in sport </b>are (have a look at the <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/06/redpoint-anxiety-coping-strategies-ii.html" target="_blank">previous entry for a description</a> of each technique). According to how often they are used, Xianming et al. (1999) compiled the following list:<br />
<br />
<ol>
</ol>
<ol>
<li>Problem solving,</li>
<li>Self-blame,</li>
<li>Avoidance </li>
</ol>
<ol>
</ol>
Park et al. (2000) proposed these:<br />
<ul>
<li> psychological skills training,</li>
<li> training and strategies,</li>
<li> somatic relaxation,</li>
<li> hobby activities,</li>
<li> social support,</li>
<li> prayer,</li>
<li> substance abuse</li>
</ul>
<br />
Gould et al. (1993), found the following among elite skaters;<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li> rational thinking and self-talk,</li>
<li> positive focus and orientation,</li>
<li> social support (from coach, friends and family),</li>
<li> time management and prioritization,</li>
<li> precompetitive mental preparation and anxiety management (relaxation, visualization),</li>
<li> training hard and smart,</li>
<li> isolation and deflection (not letting things get to me, screening media),</li>
<li> ignoring the stressors</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQjDi7PkSnenuxCB0k_RRCHSIq03cH3JnslhzpxEFTAQ_R5NVzyIoWTvbySLBXF1RaSbIi99O5rZN3V8_AWQxktjwpGowWanOlgZZow5pbQycFCoGK5y9vopEpNBGmb-5jUdJJH0x-3P1N/s1600-h/muriel+sarkany+aviles+2003+foto+dario_cr.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358081332099001458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQjDi7PkSnenuxCB0k_RRCHSIq03cH3JnslhzpxEFTAQ_R5NVzyIoWTvbySLBXF1RaSbIi99O5rZN3V8_AWQxktjwpGowWanOlgZZow5pbQycFCoGK5y9vopEpNBGmb-5jUdJJH0x-3P1N/s320/muriel+sarkany+aviles+2003+foto+dario_cr.jpg" style="display: block; height: 244px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 351px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muriel Sarkany, IFSC Climbing World Cup Avilés, 2003 (Spain). Photo: Darío Rodríguez. Source:<a href="http://desnivel.com/">desnivel.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">Which stage of the competition of "stressing event" is each strategy best suited for?</span><br />
<br />
Every athlete needs to have a plan for coping, that optimizes their resources and minimizes anxiety response. As there are as many reactions to stress as there are people,<b> the plan should be personalized </b>et. So, when preparing the plan, the individual characteristics must be accounted for, as well as the type of stressor that has a bigger influence in each occasion (the different types of stressors can be found <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/06/redpoint-anxiety-coping-strategies-ii.html" target="_blank">in the previous entry</a>); it is also necessary to know in what phase of the competition they are more likely to occur (Arruza, 1999). For example, Pensgaard et al. (1998) observed that olympic athletes used <b>task-oriented coping during the competitive event</b>, but they tended to resort <b>to avoidance in the days preceding</b> and following it.<br />
<br />
A) In general <b>active strategies</b> are chosen when:<br />
<ul>
<li>There is <b>time </b>to spare,</li>
<li>The situation <b>is perceived as manageable</b>,</li>
<li>There is a <b>high confidence in one's capacity</b> to solve the situation (Roth & Cohen, 1986).</li>
</ul>
<br />
B) By the contrary, several authors agree that <b>avoidance coping is preferred</b> in occasions where:<br />
<ul>
<li>the situation is perceived <b>as unmanageable </b>(like spectators' behaviour or noise),</li>
<li>time is <b>short</b>,</li>
<li>the<b> available resources are insufficient</b> or the likelihood of getting on top of the situation is low (Anshel, 2008)</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoKB0pxUQsOrhpAPt5IOLgUt8XHCT_ijtWvuJcqKrTKs_JcprieC-5S190nEqAtcSccS9uGxsPjAppD2O4pQdrsaennnzoqjNKF009zVK8sPG9_kzNnxVnCa0p4F-GeE1P5SdQjeJI6rZ/s1600-h/Andrea+Cartas+en+Akelarre+8b%2B+-+Foto+por+Carlos+Padilla.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5357520551686133858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoKB0pxUQsOrhpAPt5IOLgUt8XHCT_ijtWvuJcqKrTKs_JcprieC-5S190nEqAtcSccS9uGxsPjAppD2O4pQdrsaennnzoqjNKF009zVK8sPG9_kzNnxVnCa0p4F-GeE1P5SdQjeJI6rZ/s320/Andrea+Cartas+en+Akelarre+8b%2B+-+Foto+por+Carlos+Padilla.JPG" style="display: block; height: 381px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 255px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrea Cartas. Akelarre, 8b+, Orihuela (Murcia). Photo: Carlos Padilla. Source:<a href="http://andreacartas.blogspot.com/">andreacartas.blogspot.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">Generally speaking, what is the most Effective strategy?</span><br />
<br />
<blockquote>
<b>Task-oriented coping, more precisely, active coping, is linked to positive results</b> and higher levels of self-confidence (Krane, 1992; Eubank, 2000; Ntoumanis, 2000, Voight, 2000 and Xianming, 1999).</blockquote>
<br />
By contrast, strategies that <b>rely on emotions seem to be related to elevated anxiety</b>, depression and lack of adequate strategies (Eubank et al., 2000; Ntomaunis et al., 1998 and 2000; Pensgaard et al., 2000; Xianming et al., 1999). For Giacobbi et al., (2000), <b>athletes suffering from high anxiety </b>before competitive stress situations opt for <b>negation, wishful thinking, self-blame and excessive self-criticism</b>.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Coping Strategies and Sport Level</span><br />
<br />
When Gal-Or et al. (1986) studied cognitive strategies in athletes of different level, they found that:<br />
<ul>
<li> All of them made <b>moderate use of visualization</b>, and <b>focused their attention in the present</b> action rather than the past or the future;</li>
<li> The <b>higher level ones had,</b> in the moments before the competition, a higher perception of <b>self-efficacy</b>, and were<b> more task-oriented than</b> their lower level mates.</li>
</ul>
In addition, González (2001), looked at 46 elite Cuban athletes during national and international events and observed that:<br />
<ul>
<li>The <b>athletes that showed the highest levels of anxiety</b> were those who lacked effective coping strategies, resorted to <b>magical thinking</b>, ruminated more<b> about past errors or failure</b>, blamed <b>external causes for their errors</b>, and had a lower <b>self-efficacy</b> expectancy.</li>
<li> Those with <b>lower anxiety</b> were less likely to <b>blame external factors</b> and incur in magical thinking, looked more for <b>support </b>and, above all, developed coping strategies.</li>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: large;">Variation of coping with Sport Modality</span><br />
<br />
Regarding the relation between the <b>type of physical activity and coping</b> there seem to be some tendencies:<br />
<ul>
<li> In sports or tasks requiring <b>precision </b>(Badminton, penalty kick in soccer), athletes get the best results through instructional self-talk.</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li> When it is <b>strength or endurance what matters</b> (something likely to take place while redpointing), it is effective to use <b>instructional along with motivational self-talk</b> (Theodorakis et al., 2000).</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li> In less deterministic activities where a<b>ttention to external stimuli is important (like onsighting)</b>, several authors have shown that if time to make a decision is very short, <b>avoidance </b>is effective (Anshel & Anderson, 2002; Krohne & Hindel, 1988); this has also been proposed for <b>confronting execution errors during competition</b> (Roth & Cohen, 1986).</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li> Where <b>memory and automation of movement are crucial</b>, like in gymnastics, synchronized swimming or <b>sport climbing (when working a route)</b>, the effectiveness of <b>visualization and relaxation </b>has been verified (Feltz and Landers., 1983; Gray et al., 1984; Dubier et al., 1999).</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxq8ZAGnow7rwCpvr81IirZq7pKTLnsmU9db3cG3XlKJdZTbVFQHsqp6akKAro7dBn1VXS7w8vDzgnz3OiCIwEREeD_sqWQIK7LbLF3Kn0uHwJs2_dgY4x_hlEBO-612Uk9C-aIk3r8uP/s1600-h/b_macias1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359192817928379362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKxq8ZAGnow7rwCpvr81IirZq7pKTLnsmU9db3cG3XlKJdZTbVFQHsqp6akKAro7dBn1VXS7w8vDzgnz3OiCIwEREeD_sqWQIK7LbLF3Kn0uHwJs2_dgY4x_hlEBO-612Uk9C-aIk3r8uP/s320/b_macias1.jpg" style="display: block; height: 213px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bruno Macías. Bouldering National Championship Avilés 2005 (Spain). Photo: Darío Rodríguez. Source: <a href="http://desnivel.com/">desnivel.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">Practical Applications to Climbing</span><br />
<br />
From the conclusions reached in the reviewed documentation, we can suggest that the most effective strategies for reducing anxiety in our sport are those that focus on:<br />
<ul>
<li> the <b>climb itself:</b> sort each movement, refine our execution;</li>
<li> thinking about <b>now, one move at a time</b>;</li>
<li> <b>self-talk, visualization</b>;</li>
<li> <b>goal-setting, building a "competition plan", managing time</b> (like warming-up, waiting between semifinals and finals...)</li>
<li> promoting a <b>high self-efficacy perception</b>.</li>
</ul>
Regarding the best technique during each phase of a climb, or when facing a stressor, each one needs to find their own... once you have some ideas (often after much practice and trial and error) about which works best for you.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Practical Examples of Strategies for Coping with Anxiety in Climbing</span><br />
<br />
<b>Let's see some examples</b>, I'm sure you'll be able to add many of your own:<br />
<br />
EXAMPLE #1: REPEATEDLY FALLING IN THE SAME HARD MOVE OF MY PROJECT<br />
<br />
<b><i>Coping technique proposal:</i></b> First, analyze what the cause for that fall is (insufficient endurance or maximum strength, less than ideal method, lack of automation leading to sluggishness, getting distracted by your own negative thoughts...); then you have to look for a response: training your endurance or your ability to do hard moves under fatigue, optimizing the easier parts so that you will get less tired to the crux, devoting a full try just to finding an easier method for the crux, repeating it several times to build confidence...; you can also ask some friend to help you figure out the variables that have influence over that fall. Lastly, set goals.<br />
<br />
<b><i>Coping style used</i>:</b> active, problem-oriented (analysis, problem solving, memorization, automation, self-confidence development, systematic training, seek for instrumental social support), goal setting.<br />
<br />
EXAMPLE #2: THERE ARE TOO MANY PEOPLE AT THE CRAG, I DON'T EVEN KNOW IF I WILL BE ABLE TO WARM-UP PROPERLY AND GET A SLOT TO TRY MY PROJECT<br />
<br />
<i><b>Coping technique proposal: </b></i>Schedule that day's activities (when to wake up, have breakfast, trip to the crag...) so that you get there early, know what routes are you go to warm-up on beforehand and ask other climbers if they are going to try your project to make sure you can have your turn. Meanwhile, try to keep distracted, enjoy the time with your friends until your time comes.<br />
<br />
<i><b>Coping style used:</b></i> problem-oriented (planning) and avoidance (distraction)<br />
<br />
EXAMPLE #3: THERE IS A LOT OF NOISE AT THE CRAG AND I LOSE MY CONCENTRATION<br />
<br />
<i><b>Coping technique proposal:</b></i> Ignore the surroundings and focus on the climb before starting, visualize the route, begin to concentrate through self-instructions for every step that you have to take. "put the harness on", "now tie in", "put my foot on that blackened edge, and then go for the right hand pinch", "place my foot really high to clip"... and also self-encouraging phrases that help focusing: "go for it!", "let's climb!", "well done!"...<br />
<br />
<i><b>Coping style used:</b></i> Avoidance, also active, task oriented (self-instructions, visualization, self-motivation)<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Conclusions</span><br />
<br />
In wrapping up this entry, I suggest you apply what Carver, Scheier & Weintraub (1989), and Scheier et al. (1986) concluded:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Using active coping, building a plan for action and reinterpreting events in a positive way have a positive correlation with self-esteem, optimism and resilience, and are also effective against anxiety.</blockquote>
Have good luck and, above all, lots and lots of patience till you expose and master the strongest source of stress:: The "monster" within!<br />
<br />
In the words of Mark Twain:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i> "Some of the worst things in my life never even happened."</i></blockquote>
What are you waiting for?<br />
<br />
<b>LINKS RELATED</b><br />
<div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #669922; text-decoration: initial;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/12/competitive-anxiety-redpoint-anxiety.html" style="background-color: transparent; color: #669922; text-decoration: initial;">Precompetitive Anxiety in Climbing: "Redpoint Anxiety"</a></span><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing.html" style="background-color: transparent; color: #88bb22;">Precompetitive Anxiety in Climbing: Interpreting your "Redpoint Anxiety"</a></span></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html">Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: What stresses you out? (I)</a></span></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html">Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: What stresses you out? (II)</a></span></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/06/redpoint-anxiety-coping-strategies-i.html">Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: Coping Strategies (I)</a></span><br />
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/06/redpoint-anxiety-coping-strategies-ii.html">Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: Coping Strategies (II)</a></span></div>
</div>
<b>REFERENCES</b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Anshel M, & Anderson D (2002).</b> Coping with acute stress in sport: Linking athletes' coping style, coping strategies, affect, and motor performance. Anxiety, Stress & Coping, 15(2), 193-209.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Arruza JA; Telletxea S; Azurza A; Amenabar B; Balague G; Ugalde D (1999)</b>. Estado de ánimo, auto-confianza y rendimiento percibido en competidores de élite de Snowboard; unpublished.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Carver CS., Scheier MF., & Weintraub JK (1989). </b>Assessing Coping Strategies: A Theoretically Based Approach. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 56(2), 267-283.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Dubier J; Inchauspe1 L; Tiberge M (1999). </b> Stress regulation test through mental images on the French National Women Synchronized Swimming team during the 1998 Perth (Australia) World Championships; 5th IOC World Congress on Sport Sciences with the Annual Conference of Science and Medicine in Sport ;Sydney 31 October -5 November</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Eubank M. ; Collins D (2000).</b> Coping with pre- and in-event fluctuations in competitive state anxiety: a longitudinal approach; Journal of Sports Sciences (JSS), 18(2), 121 - 131. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Feltz DL,; Landers DM (1983).</b> The effects of mental practice on motor skill learning and performance: A meta-analysis. Journal of Sport Psychology, 5, 25-57.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Gal-Or Y, Tenenbaum G, Shimrony S (1986). </b>Cognitive behavioural strategies and anxiety in elite orienteers; Sports Sci. 1986 Spring;4(1):39-48.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Giacobbi PR; Weinberg RS (2000)</b>. An examination of coping in sports: individual trait anxiety differences and situational consistency; The Sport Psychologist; 14(1):42-62</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>González LG (2001)</b>. Enfrentamiento al stress competitivo en atletas de alto rendimiento; en www.efdeportes.com/ Revista Digital - Buenos Aires - Año 6 - N° 32 - Marzo</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Gould D; Finch LM; Jackson SA(1993)</b>. Coping strategies used by National Champion Figure Skaters; Research Quaterly for Exercise and Sport, 64(4), 453-468</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Gray JJ.; Haring MJ; Banks NM (1984).</b> Mental rehearsal for sport performance: exploring the relaxation-imagery paradigm; Journal of Sport Behavior (JSB), 7(2), 68 - 78.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Krane V; Williams J; Feltz D (1992).</b> Path analysis examining relationships among cognitive anxiety, somatic anxiety, state confidence, performance expectations, and golf performance; Journal of Sport Behavior (JSB), 15(4), 279 - 295.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Krohne HW, & Hindel C (1988).</b> Trait anxiety, state anxiety, and coping behavior as predictors of athletic performance. Anxiety Research, 1(3), 225-234.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Ntoumanis N. Biddle SJH (2000). </b>Relationship of intensity and direction of competitive anxiety with coping strategies; The Sport Psychologist, 14(4), 360 - 371. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Ntoumanis N; Biddle JH (1998).</b> The relationship of coping and its perceived effectiveness to positive and negative affect in sport; Personality and Individual Differences; 24(6 ): 773-788</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Park JK (2000). </b>Coping strategies used by Korean national athletes; The Sport Psychologist, 14(1), 63-80.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Pensgaard AM, Ursin H (1998).</b> Stress, control, and coping in elite athletes.Scand J Med Sci Sports. Jun;8(3):183-9</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Roth S & Cohen LJ (1986).</b> Approach, avoidance, and coping with stress. American Psychologist, 41(7), 813.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Theodorakis Y; Weinberg R; Natsis P; Douma I; Kazakas P (2000).</b> The effects of motivational versus instructional self-talk on improving motor performance; The Sport Psychologist, 14(3), 253 - 271.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Valdés M; de Flores T (1990)</b>. Psicobiología del estrés. Barcelona. Martínez Roca</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Voight MR; Callaghan JL; Ryska TA (2000)</b>. Relationship between goal orientations, self-confidence and multidimensional trait anxiety among Mexican-American female youth athletes; Journal of Sport Behavior, 23(3), 271-288</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Xianming T (1999)</b> Research on the Coping Strategies of Archers; Abstracts Congreso Asian South Pacific Association of Sport Psychology (ASPASP)</span></li>
</ul>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-75156779092992448552013-06-16T11:51:00.000+02:002018-03-09T12:14:27.869+01:00Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: Coping Strategies (II)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2009/07/ansiedad-competitiva-estrategias-de_12.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9cgfr_iq0yLoIRKfXXQUGyTWSTGu4IhoWkyZ3uaCyBiJt-neXgDudX05MZ8-b5zQDaBpUCGkmqSzMCotFHrPbczUBfNZj37kzwm4wuh8LBVdNjFTsvfsV8YYFhLU-ybIuw2HXJJ5bjy-/s1600-h/mrazek+imst+climbing+cup+world.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5357512895646716114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE9cgfr_iq0yLoIRKfXXQUGyTWSTGu4IhoWkyZ3uaCyBiJt-neXgDudX05MZ8-b5zQDaBpUCGkmqSzMCotFHrPbczUBfNZj37kzwm4wuh8LBVdNjFTsvfsV8YYFhLU-ybIuw2HXJJ5bjy-/s200/mrazek+imst+climbing+cup+world.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 221px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 165px;" /></a>
After reading the question that the <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/06/redpoint-anxiety-coping-strategies-i.html" target="_blank">previous entry</a> raised, some of you may find it hard to pick just one of the suggested answers; perhaps you would opt for one or another depending on the circumstances, type of problem, etc.<br />
<br />
<br />
Quite so, most authors agree that different strategies can c<b>omplement each other, alternate or even interfere with each other for the same person at a particular moment, for certain stress sources</b> (injuries, hard redpoint attempt, failures, fear of failure, competition..see <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html" target="_blank">this entry</a>, and <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html" target="_blank">this one</a>) (Anshel, 1997, 1999; Fornés, 2001; Gould, 1993; González, 2001; Lazarus, 2000; Pensgaard, 1998), or for the <b>particular circumstances</b> (Caruso, 1990).<br />
<br />
Regarding the alternatives I put forward for last entry’s question, you probably will develop a clear idea of which strategy each one belongs to as you read this entry. <br />
<br />
Starting from the transactional model for stress coping by Lazarus and Folkman (1986), most scholars in this field (Carver et al., 1989; Moos & Billing, 1982; Billings & Moos, 1984; Páez Rovira, 1993) agree that there are at least <b>three big groups of coping strategies</b>:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">A) Problem- or task-focused coping</span><br />
It's aimed to solving the problem or <b>“doing something” to change the environmental events that cause the stress.</b> It tends to be used when there is the perception that the stimulus can be modified. There are these possible strategies according to Carver et al. (1989), Gould et al. (1993), and Park (2000):<br />
<br />
<b>- Active Coping</b>, performing direct actions aimed to altering the situation to remove the stressor or minimize its effects. This includes visualization, self-instructions and self-motivation, simulation of the competitive activity, psychological training, promotion of effort and task analysis;<br />
<b>- Planning the strategies for action</b>, seeking the best way for managing stress, developing the Competition Plan, managing and organizing time;<br />
<b>- Seeking instrumental social support</b> from people who can provide us with the information, advice, financial support, etc. necessary to solve the problem.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBlflFRhW2mX_OfJwGCAKIYiPfGP1MrVFOQskoQsg-lwVajdJxNK_IeqKXrsIiuD2yvLeX9cfDD9BvJ5DQjyenGZhTn_jJUVuAEG6EUbONFPMWVWvJo6KsVr_lyMa8AmibPezQdmXPq_k/s1600-h/motivacion+goal+setting.gif" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5357513459758441794" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkBlflFRhW2mX_OfJwGCAKIYiPfGP1MrVFOQskoQsg-lwVajdJxNK_IeqKXrsIiuD2yvLeX9cfDD9BvJ5DQjyenGZhTn_jJUVuAEG6EUbONFPMWVWvJo6KsVr_lyMa8AmibPezQdmXPq_k/s200/motivacion+goal+setting.gif" style="float: left; height: 147px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 133px;" /></a>According to Bifulco & Brown (1996), and Heppner & Petersen (1982), in this group we could as well include:<br />
<b>- Problem solving,</b><br />
<b>- Cognitive restructuring </b>and<br />
<b>- Self-criticism</b>.<br />
<br />
Burton (1989) proposes <b>setting goals</b> for improvement as an effective technique to increase athletes’ performance and reduce anxiety levels.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">B) Emotion-focused coping</span><br />
It tries to <b>reduce or remove the negative feelings</b> caused by the stressing situation. It can be of use when there are external variables that we can’t act upon. Inside this group, Carver et col. (1989) put forward the following:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO5XelLZo-hsyGcbZL6gskVYUSorPQ0qUiRMsOOVsR42hXAbBnEm2R_ipLe-fRE_SoIyXEXdbioeezCuS10LmcmgSKKyhGU0oLwY58kr9eOmyGRF8NByvUzfJg_RojL0FtjuR9pyAGpztB/s1600-h/amistad.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5357515594118755474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO5XelLZo-hsyGcbZL6gskVYUSorPQ0qUiRMsOOVsR42hXAbBnEm2R_ipLe-fRE_SoIyXEXdbioeezCuS10LmcmgSKKyhGU0oLwY58kr9eOmyGRF8NByvUzfJg_RojL0FtjuR9pyAGpztB/s200/amistad.jpg" style="float: left; height: 134px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 128px;" /></a><b>- Looking for social emotional support</b> to alleviate the effects of the stress (affection, empathy and understanding);<br />
<b>- Suppressing distractors</b> to focus on the stressing event:<br />
<b>- Praying, </b>resorting to religion, superstition/magical thinking, that are passive ways of accepting the situation;<br />
<b>- Reinterpreting positively</b> the event, in terms of opportunities and personal growth;<br />
<b>- Postponing the moment</b> of confrontation; delaying the time of the face-off can be seen also as active coping because there is a behaviour aimed to overcoming the stressor, but it is passive as it implies a lack of immediate action;<br />
<b>- Accepting the problem</b>;<br />
<b>- Self-control</b>;<br />
<b>- Letting off steam</b>, exteriorize the feelings related to the situation that gives rise to those emotions. Carver et col. (1989) suggest that this response can sometimes be functional, but focusing on it for a long time can compromise the adjustment to reality of the individual, and distract them from active coping.<br />
<br />
Lazarus and Folkman (1985), also include in this group:<br />
- <b>Fantasy coping,</b><br />
- <b>Self-blame</b> and<br />
- <b>Self-isolation</b>.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">C) Avoidance coping</span><br />
It means going around the problem by not thinking about it, or relying on the opponent’s errors, or attributing one’s performance to external factors, or distracting oneself with other activities, or reacting aggressively to others (Le Scanff, 1999). Avoidance coping techniques include:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilqETYV5NPXoJQf1b-Mj0OUNvDOmVMANL526InI3dDB3sILQbYcLPfECbj1FRHNAV06SK4_DbvRhmCy3d6Qx4srZ6u4OzlSb_wv59XvYr8YL-N88QFxS_cgJ8mw3kwdGRrwTsFFoMp-XNC/s1600-h/silbido+distraccion.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5358067333890595650" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilqETYV5NPXoJQf1b-Mj0OUNvDOmVMANL526InI3dDB3sILQbYcLPfECbj1FRHNAV06SK4_DbvRhmCy3d6Qx4srZ6u4OzlSb_wv59XvYr8YL-N88QFxS_cgJ8mw3kwdGRrwTsFFoMp-XNC/s200/silbido+distraccion.JPG" style="float: left; height: 84px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 105px;" /></a>-<b> Negation</b>, in the sense of acting like “nothing happens”. Carver et col. (1989) claim that negating reality can make the event more severe than it already is and make coping more difficult;<br />
- <b>Behavioral disengagement</b>, staying away from the situation. The individual even gives up trying to achieve goals where the stressor is at play;<br />
<b>- Mental disengagement</b>, using alternative distractors to evade the event. Even though disconnecting is sometimes a highly adaptive response, it is often detrimental to coping adequately;<br />
<b>- Substance consumption</b>, and lastly<br />
<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj608sy9o2LUOh3xYPLo5Q8uM4o1xmYGHhS3fD9x7zmL60iOq1iENL5_dbE3VfwkatiEtiE9ztSFJincenRyLmF-82amm0LGd2rwFIBSGtBzCZX_P4ak6YK6tLG0xAJfLuOgM149NRFm8aL/s1600-h/Clown.gif" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5357516596697860338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj608sy9o2LUOh3xYPLo5Q8uM4o1xmYGHhS3fD9x7zmL60iOq1iENL5_dbE3VfwkatiEtiE9ztSFJincenRyLmF-82amm0LGd2rwFIBSGtBzCZX_P4ak6YK6tLG0xAJfLuOgM149NRFm8aL/s200/Clown.gif" style="float: left; height: 151px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 80px;" /></a>- Humor</b> as a way of distancing and distracting oneself while playing down the drama of the situation.<br />
<br />
Bifulco & Brown (1996), Frydenberg & Lewis (1997) and Vitaliano et al. (1985) add to the avoidance strategies the <b>wishful thinking </b>(wanting the situation to not occur ot to play in a different way).<br />
Frydenberg and Lewis (1997) add <b>self-blame</b> to this set.<br />
<br />
Lastly, Covington (1992) still on the topic of avoidance, <b>talks about excuses (self-handicapping behaviors)</b> when the time comes to undergo a physical effort, attributing one’s performance to external and internal factors so to avoid error and protect self-esteem.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLFwvvIiOWYOx9yeWWwYS84-76thDLPyyR2nzVH9T0FTdAdFO39Kj7sSaos5VHCJdVgCcIWBqy7k2XPKIajwSqP2F0iZeNjoopYkc1VWtXELiCnr9Dk9sMyjaTP5jjY14oUvr05ax-oem/s1600-h/paso+largo.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5357519180195098882" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLFwvvIiOWYOx9yeWWwYS84-76thDLPyyR2nzVH9T0FTdAdFO39Kj7sSaos5VHCJdVgCcIWBqy7k2XPKIajwSqP2F0iZeNjoopYkc1VWtXELiCnr9Dk9sMyjaTP5jjY14oUvr05ax-oem/s320/paso+largo.jpg" style="display: block; height: 222px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
As for the most used techniques used in sports, and w<span class="st">hich of them are more efficient</span>... <b>that will be the topic for the next entry</b>.<br />
<br />
<b>LINKS RELATED</b><br />
<div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: #669922; text-decoration: initial;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/12/competitive-anxiety-redpoint-anxiety.html" style="background-color: transparent; color: #669922; text-decoration: initial;">Precompetitive Anxiety in Climbing: "Redpoint Anxiety"</a></span><br />
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing.html" style="background-color: transparent; color: #88bb22;">Precompetitive Anxiety in Climbing: Interpreting your "Redpoint Anxiety"</a></span></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html">Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: What stresses you out? (I)</a></span></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html">Redpoint Anxiety: What stresses you out? (II)</a></span></div>
<div class="post-title entry-title">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/06/redpoint-anxiety-coping-strategies-i.html">Redpoint Anxiety: Coping Strategies (I)</a></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<b>REFERENCES</b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Anshel, M. H., & Kaissidis, A. N. (1997).</b> Coping style and situational appraisals as predictors of coping strategies following stressful events in sport as a function of gender and skill level. British Journal of Psychology, 88(2), 263-276.<b> </b></span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Anshel, M. H., & Weinberg, R. S. (1999).</b> Re-examining coping among basketball referees following stressful events: implications for coping interventions. Journal of Sport Behavior, 22(2), 141-161. </span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Bifulco, A., & Brown, G. W. (1996)</b>. Cognitive coping response to crises and onset of depression. <i>Social Psychiatry and Psychiatric Epidemiology</i>, <i>31</i>(3-4), 163-172.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Billings, A. G., & Moos, R. H. (1984). </b>Coping, stress, and social resources among adults with unipolar depression. <i>Journal of personality and social psychology</i>, <i>46</i>(4), 877.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Burton, D. (1989)</b>. The impact of goal specificity and task complexity on basketball skill development. <i>Journal Article in The Sport Psychologist</i>.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Caruso, C. M. Gill, D. L; Dzewaltowski, D. A.; McElroy, M. A. (1990)</b>:
Psychological and physiological changes in competitive state anxiety
during noncompetition and competitive success and failure;
Journal of Sport & Exercise Psychology (JSEP), 12(1), 6 - 20. </span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Carver, C. S., Scheier, M. F., & Weintraub, J. K. (1989).</b> Assessing coping strategies: A theoretically based approach. <i>Journal of personality and social psychology</i>, <i>56</i>(2), 267-283.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span class="authors" style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Covington, M. V. (1992).</b> <i class="a-plus-plus">Making Grade: A Self-Worth Perspective on Motivation and School Reform</i>, Cambridge University Press, New York.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Folkman, S.; Lazarus, R. S. (1985). </b>If it changes it
must be a process: A study of emotion and coping during three stages of a
college examination. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 48
(1), 150-170.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Folkman, S., & Lazarus, R. S. (1988).</b> Coping as a
mediator of emotion. Journal of personality and social psychology,
54(3), 466-475.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Folkman, S., Lazarus, R. S., Dunkel-Schetter, C.,
DeLongis, A., & Gruen, R. J. (1986)</b>. Dynamics of a stressful
encounter: Cognitive appraisal, coping, and encounter outcomes. <i>Journal of personality and social psychology</i>, <i>50</i>(5), 992-1003.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Fornés, J., Ponsell, E., & Guasp, E. (2001). </b>Ansiedad y estrés en enfermería. Rol de Enfermería, 24, 1, 51-56.</span> </li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Frydenberg, E., & Lewis, R. (1997)</b>. Coping with Stresses and Concerns during Adolescence: A Longitudinal Study.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>González, L. G. (2001).</b> Enfrentamiento al stress competitivo en atletas de alto rendimiento. http://www.efdeportes.com/efd32/stress.htm. Año 6, No. 32, marzo de 2001.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Gould, D., Jackson, S., & Finch, L. (1993)</b>. Sources of stress in
national champion figure skaters. Journal of Sport and Exercise
Psychology, 15, 134-134.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Heppner, P. P., & Petersen, C. H. (1982)</b>. The development and implications of a personal problem-solving inventory. <i>Journal of Counseling Psychology</i>, <i>29</i>(1), 66.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Lazarus, R. S. (2000).</b> Toward better research on stress and coping. <i>American psychologist</i>, <i>55</i>(6), 665-673.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Le Scanff, C., & Bertsch, J. (1999).</b> <i>Estrés y rendimiento</i> (Vol. 17). Inde.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Moos, R. H. & Billings, A. G. (1982) </b>Conceptualizing and measuring coping resources and processes. In L. Goldberger & S. Breznitz (Eds.) Handbook of stress: Theoretical and clinical aspects (pp. 212-230). New York: Free Press.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li> <span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Páez Rovira, D. (1993)</b>. Salud, expresión y represión social de las emociones. Valencia: Promolibro.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Park, J. K. (2000): </b>Coping strategies used by Korean national athletes; The Sport Psychologist, 14(1), 63 - 80.</span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Pensgaard AM, Ursin H.(1998):</b> Stress, control, and coping in elite athletes.Scand J Med Sci Sports. Jun;8(3):183-9 </span></li>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">
</span>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Vitaliano, P. P., Russo, J., Carr, J. E., Maiuro, R.
D., & Becker, J. (1985)</b>. The ways of coping checklist: Revision and
psychometric properties. <i>Multivariate Behavioral Research</i>, <i>20</i>(1), 3-26.</span></li>
</ul>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-90855266441053436772013-06-08T20:53:00.000+02:002018-03-09T12:14:28.235+01:00Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: Coping Strategies (I)<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-77b08ce0-1b73-f386-bb2e-a850ce134b81" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-77b08ce0-1b73-f386-bb2e-a850ce134b81" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-77b08ce0-1b73-f386-bb2e-a850ce134b81" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2009/07/ansiedad-competitiva-estrategias-de.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a></span></div>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Just
as we said in <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html" target="_blank">the previous entry</a>, we are going to talk about some
coping strategies that are used to face redpoint anxiety or adjust
it.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="222" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5357325762065841618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifc2mVmagmY6_5UI-4bIrHjLI0M5hWIlhbFgyPDf8aqC6CoZTrfpX-_WuuXmbrw172z20Bju8-kdSr7bJkpf3l4Cp_WieZ_G5q52m9baXznxD-BSSXKUqq18A7ENmQMkE-zJM9YnMyz1mz/s200/isolation+zone.jpg" style="height: 139px; margin: 0pt auto 10px; width: 200px;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">The <b>term coping strategies was defined by</b> Lazarus and Folkman (1986) as “</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">a broad range of cognitive and behavioral strategies that people use</span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"> to manage the demands of specific stressful encounters”.</span></div>
<b><br /><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span></b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>In the way of an introduction, </b>let me ask you a question:</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">How do you react to problems?</span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"></span><br />
<ol>
<li><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>I usually don’t face them</b>. I run from them, avoid them, they don’t pique my interest and I do not talk about them.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>I try to look at them in a different</b> light</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>I try to control</b> or shape my feelings.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>I look for a way of solving</b> the situation and try to act upon the aspects of reality that are causing it.</span></li>
</ol>
<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.15; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 15px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;"><b>Do
you react like this at the prospect of trying your hardest </b>route, or
when facing the stressing situations that life throws at us?</span></div>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-18676664002030063872013-05-28T11:41:00.000+02:002018-03-09T12:14:26.562+01:00Lock-off training in Sport Climbing (V). Goal-based Exercise Proposals.<br />
<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/entrenamiento-de-bloqueos-en-escalada.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a><br />
<br />
After this long and <a href="http://www.blogger.com/After%20this%20long%20and%20verbose%20chain%20of%20entries,%20now%20it%27s%20time%20to%20wrap%20up%20the%20series%20by%20putting%20forward%20some%20exercises%20that%20attend%20to%20each%20particular%20objective.%20But%20first%20we%20will%20go%20over%20some%20previously%20presented%20statements%20that%20will%20serve%20as%20a%20kind%20of%20preface:">verbose chain of entries</a>, now it's time to wrap up the series by putting forward some exercises that attend to each particular objective. But first we will go over some previously presented statements that will serve as a kind of preface:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Conclusions about Lock-offs in Climbing</span><br />
<br />
- <b>A specific strength exercise is one that reproduces</b> the mechanical pattern (joint angles, speed of movement), duration of force application and kind of exercise regimen (concentric, isometric, eccentric), along the same muscle groups (or parts of them),<b> that is typical of the gesture that we want to increase performance on.</b> An additional characteristic is that they can also be facilitated or the opposite, like when we use elastic bands or added weight (Wilson et col., 1996; González-Badillo and Ribas, 2002; González-Badillo and Izquierdo, 2008).<br />
<br />
- <b>Regarding the usual duration of a lock-off,</b> and focusing on technically proficient climbers, most of the time it is so short that it's even hard to appreciate it. The static phase of every move is the one where the elbow is no longer flexing and we start to let go of the hold with the other hand; a very brief moment that, <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/lock-off-training-iii-do-you-really.html">as we already saw, lasts for 0,15 to 0,30seconds</a>. From these figures we can deduce an important practical aspect:<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
This phase is so short that <b>there are circumstances, specially for boulderers, or when grabbing small holds on steep overhangs</b>, or that when a move requires a lot of precision, where there actually <b>is not enough time for us to apply</b> all the force that we are capable of. In these cases -and here we are just talking physical factors- what comes into play is what we can call <b>explosive lock-off strength.</b></blockquote>
-<b> In other situations a lock-off can last longer (from 0,5 to 1 second)</b> and condition the performance in certain circumstances such as roofs, crossing hands, transitioning from roof to vertical, clipping, or long moves on a slab. They are also more frequent when onsighting or bouldering than when working a lead route.<br />
<br />
- The more typical, and as such, specific joint angles <b>are 90-100º</b> and 45-60º.<br />
<br />
- <b>Performing either a high intensity or a prolonged lock-off</b> (like the lock-offs to fatigue method) <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/07/lock-off-training-ii-does-our-locking.html">is very stressing for the elbow anddangerous</a>. The reason is that in a tiny area a lot of structures come together: bicipital aponeurosis, ulnar collateral ligament, ulnar nerve, pronator teres, finger and wrist flexor muscles... so that this region is prone to suffer from compression (neuropathies). In addition, each of them is disproportionately small for the load that it has to bear, making it prone to microtraumas and overload (<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/search/label/Tendinopat%C3%ADas">epicondylalgia and tendinopathies</a>) when the intensity is excessive or the workout volume is suddenly increased. As someone who knows a thing or two about the elbow says, <i>they are not at all prepared for the effort we subject them to while climbing</i><br />
<br />
- <b>So, if we ever feel we have to train lock-offs,</b> it should be only <b>after a long enough adaptation</b> phase, so that the structures are better prepared to sustain the punishment of climbing; this includes hypertrophy, and changes in composition, visco-elastic properties and stiffness, metabolic changes, etc. The scale here is in years of constant and progressive activity (perhaps as long as 5), not in months.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Who can train lock-offs and when?</span><br />
<br />
<br />
It goes without saying that <b>beginners must NOT work this quality, not even those with an intermediate level.</b> As that point it is better to focus on the development of a rich perceptive-motor repertory as the main physical work. In my opinion, there are <b>JUST SOME cases, regarding particular goals,</b> that justify training them, and this assuming an already advanced level. Even then, not the whole season long, and carefully picking the methodology:<br />
<br />
- <b>If you have ample (5+ years) of climbing experience</b>, and an already high technical-tactical development that allows you to solve most sequences in a more efficient, not-so-static fashion<br />
<br />
- <b>If you have extensive (3+ years) upper body strength training experience,</b> and are familiar with the pull-up gesture, strong enough and well-balanced shoulders, and <b>high pulling force</b> (15-20 pull-ups, and 5 or more with 10-15 kg added weight);<br />
<br />
- <b>If you aren't fully recovered from a previous weakness </b>or injury in your elbows (at least 2-6 months of progressive rehab). NOTE: if the day after training lock-offs you notice elbow or shoulder pain, stop that training and take immediate measures no matter what;<br />
<br />
- <b>So, if after all the information you still deem beneficial </b>to train this muscle action in some of its variants because it is a limiting factor for you; and you find a method that will not harm your technique or your tactics (<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/lock-off-training-iii-do-you-really.html">see this previous entry</a>); then, depending on your objective, you could perform 1-2 sessions a week for 4-8 weeks, resting 24-72 h between sessions and making sure you feel well-rested, always at the beginning of the workout and after a good warm-up, of some of the following proposed exercises:<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Objective: Maximum Strength Lock-off</span><br />
<br />
<br />
This would be the case <b>where you feel limited in many of your climbs by your capacity</b> -once the most efficient method is found- to hold a <b>high percentage </b>of your body mass, or to <b>hold a position with just one arm for longer</b> than usual.<br />
<br />
<b>1- Maximum lock-off:</b> Suitable for climbers who can lock-off with one arm for more than 2 seconds and less than 5. Those who can hold longer could skip to the explosive methods described later. The methodology is as follows:<br />
<ul>
<li><b>2-5 sets of 1-2 seconds with complete</b> recuperation (3+ minutes); 4-week cycles at most (ex.: 1st week 2 sets, 2nd week 3 sets...). Then we either stop it or rest for some weeks and start again changing some parameter (like number of sets or duration of effort) or, better yet, doing a different exercise for 4-8 weeks with a reduced load. </li>
<li><b>The load will be such</b> that we avoid muscle failure, using added weight or facilitating (rubber bands) as needed. Don't worry, your gains won't be smaller this way, an you will reduce your risk of injury. We can use the concept of Effort Level (EL), that is the margin in seconds that we leave before muscle failure for a given load. For lock-offs we could use an EL of 1-4. We will choose the load like this: if we have to do 1-second sets with an EL(3), we will use a stronger aid or by the contrary add some weights so that we could hold the lock-off for 1-3=4 seconds, but we will only do 1 second, leaving that 3-second margin. </li>
<li><b>Depending on our level</b> we can do it one-handed or with both arms. </li>
<li><b>Better to use a bar</b> or a really good hold, preferably with our palm(s) facing us. </li>
</ul>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSDAmTehpoVFU0h3VV3CvlrlMZAkeLUUgBhOOn425My8U3gE9GNso3FdXWyCM7ftCIEWZuux7X8mpWeg20xo-VXW9M0EGE_bQWPCaCgw9WUiBmbK3cZrCnh0-1R5QbMFGtyYXG6JlaazBp/s1600/bloqueo+m%C3%A1ximo+-+blog+eva+lopez.jpg"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSDAmTehpoVFU0h3VV3CvlrlMZAkeLUUgBhOOn425My8U3gE9GNso3FdXWyCM7ftCIEWZuux7X8mpWeg20xo-VXW9M0EGE_bQWPCaCgw9WUiBmbK3cZrCnh0-1R5QbMFGtyYXG6JlaazBp/s1600/bloqueo+m%C3%A1ximo+-+blog+eva+lopez.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<br />
2-<b>A facilitated exercise, good for familiarization</b>, could be to grab the bar with our arm(s) already flexed, and always keeping both feet on the floor and maintaining the same elbow angle try one of these two: a) pull with the arms for one second max, or b) flex our legs a little so that some of our weight is transferred to the arms for around one second.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Objective: Explosive Lock-off strength</span><br />
<br />
<b>We learned that in a maximum isometric action, the highest force to time ratio or maximum explosive force is reached at 0,10-0,15 seconds</b>, that incidentally is the usual length of locking-off while climbing. <b>This doesn't mean that we are constantly working our explosive force </b>while climbing, because most of the time the intensity is too low. But for those times when we need to apply a lot of force in a hurry (overhang, small holds), <b>the goal would be to get the highest possible peak force at those 0,10-0,15 seconds</b>. In other words, that <b>we can unleash our capacity to generate a lot of force inside the available time window.</b><br />
<br />
Here there are the exercises I propose, from easiest to more difficult, always keeping the load at a 30-50% of the maximum (the one that we could reach without the time constraint). We could do 1-2 cycles of 4 weeks each: 2-5 sets of 2-3 repetitions each, resting 3-5 minutes between sets (ex.: 1st week: 2 sets x 2 rep, 2nd week: 3 x 2 rep, 3rd week: 4x2rep, 4th week: 4x2rep...):<br />
<br />
1-<b>Explosive lock attempt.</b> This <a href="http://articles.elitefts.com/training-articles/explosive-isometrics-speed-training-with-the-brakes-on/" target="_blank">consists of trying to perform an explosive contraction</a> against an immovable resistance. This method was first proposed by Olsen and Hopkins (2003), based on the idea from Behm and Sale (1993) that the main stimulus for explosive strength development is the attempt itself and the force generated per time unit in that attempt, more than the actual muscle action or movement that results from it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWIgGrUIxwCuj-T6lbaFbRxREAPn-UxhyzVHRI8P4DhkrfUmtwYXbxSfpyEtMGFa2PRrX6rQfomDImEfWJpe5ul3423ycj5OuVcCRe_Wk75FRSuob_MbDh8rkLadFZKXjR-d64MRBBE4bR/s1600/Intento+explosivo+de+bloqueo+-+blog+eva+lopez.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWIgGrUIxwCuj-T6lbaFbRxREAPn-UxhyzVHRI8P4DhkrfUmtwYXbxSfpyEtMGFa2PRrX6rQfomDImEfWJpe5ul3423ycj5OuVcCRe_Wk75FRSuob_MbDh8rkLadFZKXjR-d64MRBBE4bR/s1600/Intento+explosivo+de+bloqueo+-+blog+eva+lopez.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Attempt of Explosive Lock-off against a fixed resistance: starting with
the desired angle, try to lock-off as fast and hard as possible. Note:
the strongest among you will feel your feet leave the floor.</span> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>2-Jump-to-lockoff with both arms.</b> Jumping to a good jug or preferably a bar, so that the angle of the elbow is the desired and we can apply force as soon as we make contact; hold the position just for the time needed to stabilize (ideally, less than 0,5 seconds), and drop back to the floor with our elbow still flexed to avoid additional stress. <b>We can start doing this after having used easier methods (like facilitated lock-offs) without suffering pain.</b> We can progress from using our body weight to adding some extra weight if we have already a high level and need further improvement (but never going beyond 30% of the maximum). <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkFcvMSXKEPba2j39u7qOo7iddY-RmDsKFmo1lB5j7j_9JsYDxDx9YxAxJ3In3ri-8G9y-v-tJ6JcPaXydxcGHiAcO1mo3a5i58xuHJ0gHvavmYGLXubgkz0-9Rrika8hfjC-p90fbhI/s1600/20120718_00+-+ejercicio+salto+a+bloqueo+con+lastre,+eva+200x400.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQkFcvMSXKEPba2j39u7qOo7iddY-RmDsKFmo1lB5j7j_9JsYDxDx9YxAxJ3In3ri-8G9y-v-tJ6JcPaXydxcGHiAcO1mo3a5i58xuHJ0gHvavmYGLXubgkz0-9Rrika8hfjC-p90fbhI/s200/20120718_00+-+ejercicio+salto+a+bloqueo+con+lastre,+eva+200x400.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Jump-to-lockoff with both arms. Phase a: preparation to jump</span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEbKkNwNaqjby_GYW2NVajeqnOGmSsKxA4RJPxepATN_ypDGKweJZ5PBWORuK1Obb9-8X2UZibmZRno9FTLesuCGXWbCsXvpB_u9ZP-7XCOSOJaz8sb7UhWnuqOH07MQUkrxYBt85XNec/s1600/20120718_01+-+ejercicio+salto+a+bloqueo+con+lastre,+eva+200x400.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEbKkNwNaqjby_GYW2NVajeqnOGmSsKxA4RJPxepATN_ypDGKweJZ5PBWORuK1Obb9-8X2UZibmZRno9FTLesuCGXWbCsXvpB_u9ZP-7XCOSOJaz8sb7UhWnuqOH07MQUkrxYBt85XNec/s200/20120718_01+-+ejercicio+salto+a+bloqueo+con+lastre,+eva+200x400.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Jump-to-lockoff with both arms. Phase b: jump and lock. Note; if you use
added weight it's better to wear a weighted belt or vest than hanging
some discs from the harness </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;">3- <b>Jump-to-lockoff with one arm.</b></span><br />
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzR9Fd53Iqty_NAvpkIRhLKzixS_fuDRCqqhF-fQOaJvO6BNY5kErQcly7c7r3pQx1IwzF34D-Ar0hqwJCEXA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Objective: Neural improvement for fast and efficient switch from dynamic to static contraction or vice versa.</span><br />
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<b>Objective: </b>Neural improvement for fast and efficient switch from dynamic to static contraction or vice versa.<br />
With this we try to make our muscles used to fast regimen change (like static to dynamic), because it is a common situation in our sport. It is compulsory to have enough level on both types of contraction before working this capacity (ex.: 15 pull-ups with our body weight, more than 30 seconds hanging with flexed arms or more than one second with one arm, perhaps we won't ever be able to do it). We could use these exercises from least to most difficult:<br />
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<b>1- Static-dynamic pull-ups (Cometti, 2000).</b> There are several versions, and we need to keep in mind that the deceleration before the locking-off phase can cause sore biceps and triceps 1-2 days after the session. So, be careful:<br />
<b>-Variant 1:</b> <b>Pull-up + 90º lock-off</b>. This is the one that I consider the most specific. Given that we have enough strength, we pull as fast as possible until reaching 90º and holding the position for 0,5 to 1 second.<b> I prefer this way to the popular one where there are 3 stops at 3 different angles</b> both in the concentric and the eccentric phase like in<a href="http://vimeo.com/43177852" target="_blank"> Ruben's video 3:25 to 3:52</a><br />
*<b>Variant 1b:</b> <b>Even more specific and probably more funny, but requiring high explosive</b> and technical level. It <b>consists of doing a long dyno</b> where we have to swiftly flex our arm upon contact to fight the resulting <i>cut-loose.</i><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUi-LMYmv-UtksTEPpqKEHK5AiYcQpNcHPv6rnOZSoed_XUXQer-AXHrqhaxx0u2reEOJKEEyYBA839QHuE-AOZ0qbHbx5ClhVok-JWRMWZ1IQkYxQnD0RowqUBHY9fJpA97wGeyr66Vs/s1600/Nacho+Sanchez+en+tamajon.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUi-LMYmv-UtksTEPpqKEHK5AiYcQpNcHPv6rnOZSoed_XUXQer-AXHrqhaxx0u2reEOJKEEyYBA839QHuE-AOZ0qbHbx5ClhVok-JWRMWZ1IQkYxQnD0RowqUBHY9fJpA97wGeyr66Vs/s320/Nacho+Sanchez+en+tamajon.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Nacho Sánchez, Tolmojón, 8B+- Tamajón (Guadalajara, España). Photo: Raul Santano</td></tr>
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<b> *Variant 2a: Lock-off + pull-up</b> <b>(really advanced)</b> Start by locking-off at 80% of the maximum and then doing an explosive pull-up at 30% of the maximum. The challenge here is the fast switch in load. I suggest you use rubber bands, rest your feet on something or even this solution:<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTXH-m0iZsO8zdaaa3X8BN8FKlxryesnugRkSXM4NQma4wyLdTr4qKC4laqHvn5yi8WqiaogrEkmqDjU1KOeMlFMcoCkqVV4Ta8edJt7wRalT589mJjzkaTnqHKft1OR01GQFKh6f7aM/s1600/20120718_ejercicio+dominada+a+2+brazos+y+bloqueo+1+brazo+01+300x400.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilTXH-m0iZsO8zdaaa3X8BN8FKlxryesnugRkSXM4NQma4wyLdTr4qKC4laqHvn5yi8WqiaogrEkmqDjU1KOeMlFMcoCkqVV4Ta8edJt7wRalT589mJjzkaTnqHKft1OR01GQFKh6f7aM/s200/20120718_ejercicio+dominada+a+2+brazos+y+bloqueo+1+brazo+01+300x400.jpg" width="110" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Phase a: one-armed lock-off</span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPhlw2bwiUrfJyc9uhmrk7-mWtnv3wBlcgHncg9GLQhCYM4vL8wPIxIoLuxB98G4yyU5azLdjSjeIlRFOGFIGBDslW1Blp1TawSBZM6a8FnMoWkVqPWk0ytPHLsWWmMtCVgt4iRwjy8o/s1600/20120718_ejercicio+dominada+a+2+brazos+y+bloqueo+1+brazo+00+300x400.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPhlw2bwiUrfJyc9uhmrk7-mWtnv3wBlcgHncg9GLQhCYM4vL8wPIxIoLuxB98G4yyU5azLdjSjeIlRFOGFIGBDslW1Blp1TawSBZM6a8FnMoWkVqPWk0ytPHLsWWmMtCVgt4iRwjy8o/s200/20120718_ejercicio+dominada+a+2+brazos+y+bloqueo+1+brazo+00+300x400.jpg" width="95" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Phase b: hold with both arms and pull-up</td></tr>
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<b> *Variant 2b: Jump + lock + pull-up.</b> This is one step above the previous one, more explosive and for elite level. It begins by jumping to a hold, doing a short lock-off and finally an explosive pull-up. There is a video of Nacho Sánchez performing it while training for Insomnio, his second 8C boulder (<a href="http://vimeo.com/40085752" target="_blank">2:12 to 2:15</a>)<br />
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<b> -Variant 3: pull-up + lock-off + pull-up.</b> Here the load is constant, around 57-80% of the maximum both for the static and the dynamic phases. This exercise could be indicated for working the strength-endurance to the change in regimen. The number of repetitions will be higher, and the goal is to reach failure in the last set of the session.<br />
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<b>2- Ladder hand-walking</b>. High transfer to roof climbing. Depending on our level and goals, we will do the usual 2-5 sets of 2-4 reps with a complete rest.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfB2o9WBo40gT1SAR-92wP-YvWHu92ClXmKZWX5rrJ7D6XP42EiziA2uWGcbl98ScILoXIXOLotyCaGZAgS3WeJH0R_lNkwJgAr1yyPOU1qVoarzPBqCo9ZT_YEDT_asLzJoptKjhKkYs/s1600/lock+off+strength+training+ladder+jurgen+reiss_cr.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfB2o9WBo40gT1SAR-92wP-YvWHu92ClXmKZWX5rrJ7D6XP42EiziA2uWGcbl98ScILoXIXOLotyCaGZAgS3WeJH0R_lNkwJgAr1yyPOU1qVoarzPBqCo9ZT_YEDT_asLzJoptKjhKkYs/s1600/lock+off+strength+training+ladder+jurgen+reiss_cr.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Jurgen Reiss training. Source: <a href="http://www.juergenreis.at/">http://www.juergenreis.at</a></span><br />
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<b>3-Pull-up and release one arm.</b> It is a fast pull-up that ends raising one arm as if we wanted to reach a hold. If we can have something to actually reach and touch it will be faster and more real.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAsQusMgmiqOQxxgqGdct-1Of31EKG2VbDVvR8qcyeukSfUizhlRPdmG3VTTVrBJMADz96bYJMU_cGtULa-0hAee1nEvFN7pn0UyLliLehUrSVZBtirkaN4ZvF2OPLxhM_HGRH96ybeL9s/s1600/dominada+y+sacar+mano+a+90.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAsQusMgmiqOQxxgqGdct-1Of31EKG2VbDVvR8qcyeukSfUizhlRPdmG3VTTVrBJMADz96bYJMU_cGtULa-0hAee1nEvFN7pn0UyLliLehUrSVZBtirkaN4ZvF2OPLxhM_HGRH96ybeL9s/s320/dominada+y+sacar+mano+a+90.jpg" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Variant a: Reaching up when the elbow is at 90º</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ugT-XtMe4lg6yPt3tsquJXwNMyUgRlFccEhLzFCfvYg6uy6diV3_3q5zgtNhlheAD2DMtifoX_TkSv1d1VwrKno9WXFlT3vNHeuoZ_GxP3N_U88Kzy3tBQsmyFSHtsYiXbdoXg3-DgWW/s1600/dominada+y+sacar+mano+a+45.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9ugT-XtMe4lg6yPt3tsquJXwNMyUgRlFccEhLzFCfvYg6uy6diV3_3q5zgtNhlheAD2DMtifoX_TkSv1d1VwrKno9WXFlT3vNHeuoZ_GxP3N_U88Kzy3tBQsmyFSHtsYiXbdoXg3-DgWW/s320/dominada+y+sacar+mano+a+45.jpg" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Variant b: Reaching up with the elbow at 45º</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>4- Campus board: </b>The static phase in this exercise is the moment that we spend "tightening" the elbow prior to reaching with the other hand, that my video analyses show is identical to the 0,15-0,20 seconds typical of climbing. <b>This makes it very specific</b>, but if we lack some system to facilitate the exercise (like pulleys) <b>the intensity tends to be too high</b> and we run into the eternal problem: the <b>control of the load</b>. Partly because we are not always aware of its importance.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: white; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgrxnWjgAkfnymcHxYrH_UL7ch7t6yv8j6qvUAO1-qlRQ5apWzpGSlPppc9W1e7_bfIbKBTqaMvBSv6zws0wgGxmKylR2iW74hXev1v21SYnB8D2vgF8irQ-MxjmzaGxhmkVYVJDW7xqM/s1600/Nacho+sanchez+haciendo+campus+a+1+brazo.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgrxnWjgAkfnymcHxYrH_UL7ch7t6yv8j6qvUAO1-qlRQ5apWzpGSlPppc9W1e7_bfIbKBTqaMvBSv6zws0wgGxmKylR2iW74hXev1v21SYnB8D2vgF8irQ-MxjmzaGxhmkVYVJDW7xqM/s320/Nacho+sanchez+haciendo+campus+a+1+brazo.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Nacho Sánchez seems to display the qualities needed for the campus board</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">About the campus...</span><br />
This is why, no matter if we focus on the fingers (with small edges), the pulling force (with long reaches) or the explosive component (like what we described today); and given that there is always some mix of the three...<br />
<br />
... This is an exercise that must be reserved for advanced phases, and <b>only by those who are familiar with other, easier methods, that have provided them with the strength necessary to pull and, more importantly, to absorb the deceleration/acceleration of the body when reaching the next edge.</b><br />
<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>How are you struggling up a campus board if you can't do 15 pull-ups in a row?<br />Each time your hand lands on the next hold your body sinks, your elbows fly; do you wriggle your whole body when reaching because you can't simply ascend by flexing your arms?<br />Keep in mind that what our muscles can't cope with, is in part transferred to the supporting structures like tendons, ligaments, joint capsules, cartilages...</i></blockquote>
<br />
This is true for all kind of exercises. But <b>the campus board is so explosive that shoulders, elbows and fingers have no time to give us warning before getting overloaded by a brusque movement.</b> Why is it so common to hear people say their elbows hurt when doing campus? And.. has anyone taken a moment to think what capacity does this exercise develop? What can it be used for?<br />
Well... as you see it can be used for several things (but not all of them at once, please!). Be careful, picture your elbows taking turns to bear the weight of your whole body.<br />
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So, some planning is in order, ask yourselves what quality you need to improve at each moment, use the easiest method available to you, keep away from injury and develop steadily. Only that way you will get long-term results.<br />
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Good luck!<br />
<br />
<b>RELATED LINKS</b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/06/lock-off-strength-training-i-does.html" style="background-color: transparent; color: #88bb22;">Lock-off Strength Training (I). Does Static (lock-offs) Training have any Effect over Dynamic (pull-ups) Performance?</a></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/07/lock-off-training-ii-does-our-locking.html">Lock-off Training
in Sport Climbing (II) Does our locking-off ability have any influence
on our performance? Is it so important to train it?</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">
<a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/lock-off-training-iii-do-you-really.html">Lock-off Training in Sport Climbing (III) Do you really lock-off?</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/lock-off-training-in-sport-climbing-iv.html">Lock-off Training in Sport Climbing (IV). A Review of several Methods and an Introduction to Explosive Lock-Offs</a></span></li>
</ul>
<b>REFERENCES</b><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Behm DG, Sale DG (1993)</b> Intended rather than actual movement velocity determines velocity-specific training response. Journal of Applied Physiology 74(1):359–68.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Cometti, G. (2000):</b> Los métodos modernos de musculación. Paidotribo</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Gonzalez Badillo and Ribas, J (1996):</b> Fundamentos del entrenamiento de la fuerza. Inde</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>González-Badillo, JJ, and Izquierdo, M. (2008):</b> Evaluación de la fuerza en el control del entrenamiento y el rendimiento deportivo. In Izquierdo, M. (editor); Biomecánica y Bases Neuromusculares de la Actividad Física y el Deporte. Panamericana</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Maloney, S. (2012). </b>Explosive Isometrics: Speed Training with the Brakes On. www.elitefits.com. [online] Entry from july 25, 2012. Available at: <a href="http://articles.elitefts.com/training-articles/explosive-isometrics-speed-training-with-the-brakes-on">http://articles.elitefts.com/training-articles/explosive-isometrics-speed-training-with-the-brakes-on</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Olsen PD, Hopkins WG (2003)</b> The effect of attempted ballistic training on the force and speed of movements. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research 17(2):291–98.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Siff MC (1993)</b> Understanding the mechanics of muscle contraction. National Strength and Conditioning Association Journal 15(5):30–3. </span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>Wilson, G. J., Murphy, A. J., & Walshe, A. (1996).</b> The specificity of strength training: the effect of posture. European journal of applied physiology and occupational physiology, 73(3), 346-352.</span></li>
</ul>
Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-41912149660637845722013-04-16T23:27:00.001+02:002018-03-09T12:14:27.151+01:00Some Finger Training Instructional Videos<br />
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<span class="userContent">I have just uploaded some videos to youtube that I hope will help you to get the most out of your dead hang workouts.</span><br />
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<span class="vm-video-title-container " id="checkbox_hJhQduBxfy0"> <span style="font-size: large;">1- Dead hang Training (1 of 6): The Effort Level (EL) for Maximum Strength
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/hJhQduBxfy0?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span class="vm-video-title-container " id="checkbox_pIFGtjBfxRo">2- Dead Hang Training (2 of 6): Technique</span></span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/pIFGtjBfxRo?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span class="userContent">3- </span><span class="vm-video-title-container " id="checkbox_EDQeAySB_to">Dead Hang Training (3 of 6): Training with Added Weight</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">5- </span><span class="vm-video-title-container " id="checkbox_rUUPw9o1OJ4"><span style="font-size: large;">Dead Hang Training (5 of 6): The Minimum Edge Size Method (MinEd)</span>
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<span style="font-size: large;">6- <span class="vm-video-title-container " id="checkbox_D3LDc9PI_wE">Dead Hang Training (6 of 6): The Intermittent Dead-Hangs Method</span></span><br />
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-24476061335378795152013-03-21T09:24:00.002+01:002018-03-09T12:14:26.743+01:00Redpoint Anxiety: What stresses you out? (II)<br />
<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2009/06/afrontamiento-de-la-ansiedad_29.html" target="_blank">Versión en español</a><br />
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Continuing <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2013/01/competitive-anxiety-in-climbing-what.html" target="_blank">from the previous entry</a>, here there are some <b>additional sources of stress:</b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">How imminent the event is</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"> </span>As the challenging situation draws closer, anxiety tends to increase.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1sgZMvqYrjE4_A0dY2Bz_TXJCqLEQJ0qiaTiIaiXcpXIs9Z4OItadMzx1XdAhHW4cMUTddI1F1siPxR5h8VFaTqRWLvR7jDD7nCHqNWSPR1_k0wrObNG-E9kM19uUZIzIoxE5aWVVcdTY/s1600-h/despertador.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5351370872085144546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1sgZMvqYrjE4_A0dY2Bz_TXJCqLEQJ0qiaTiIaiXcpXIs9Z4OItadMzx1XdAhHW4cMUTddI1F1siPxR5h8VFaTqRWLvR7jDD7nCHqNWSPR1_k0wrObNG-E9kM19uUZIzIoxE5aWVVcdTY/s200/despertador.jpg" style="float: left; height: 163px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 124px;" /></a></td></tr>
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<b>Reinterpretation proposal</b><br />
<i>I usually "procrastinate" the moment of heightened stress, </i>because, what do I have to gain from getting too nervous too early?<br />
So when I get up I think <i>"well, I'll wait until I'm at the crag to see how I feel",</i> and then, when I'm before the route I say <i>"wait 'til you are at the big jug before the crux";</i> when I get there, "<i>let's just climb, nail the moves as you have done in the past, A muerte!"</i>. It's a nice example of self-deception, isn't it?<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Importance of the event/outcome</span><br />
The more importance we assign to a route, style (onsight or worked), a crag, a grade or a competition... the more likely we are to be stressed out.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Fear/worry about failure</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Any situation that feels like a test can be stressing if we think we can fail. And I'm referring to whatever situations where we interpret as failure any kind of error like falling, bad technique, or missing some piece of information.</span></span><br />
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<b>Reinterpretation proposal</b><br />
when facing these sources for stress, I realise that <i>we attribute too much of a "tragic" meaning to failure and error, when we should see them as a tool for improvement. </i>We have to think that errors are a way to better ourselves once we start working to remediate them.<br />
<i>Something that works for me is to realize that whatever route I'm facing, it's just climbing.</i> This route, as every route, consists of a series of moves and is just one more along my career as a climber. I won't be a better climber if I send it, nor a worse one if I fall.<br />
What shapes me as a climber is the succession of day after day of climbing and training. One route, one grade, one try are of little importance on their own. It's the process that counts. What if I fall? <i>What if I err?</i> It's not possible to go forward without failing, nobody is safe from committing errors!<br />
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Just climb, climb and think about the holds, the sequence of moves, that climb, that precise moment and... we'll see. Focus on every little goal, every section, and not so much on the top, on the black or white answers, on doing the route...<br />
<i>Who knows?</i> perhaps this way, step by little step, we will make it to the top.<br />
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Once again, you can see that I tend to focus on the present and the actionI'm performing: to climb.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Spectators/Peer scrutiny</span><br />
Some people get anxious because of the people who are watching them climb. Others only get nervous if among their public there are people they care about. Deep inside, they worry about not being up to the expectations the others -alledgedly- have about them. They fear a negative evaluation, and even loosing their affection, admiration or aprobation just because of the outcome of their performance. They are confusing "Being" with "Doing".<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzk0oCanVY8EIzjEiMkR5SFdkZlK7kFvuU4XljaTtLqwm5J7IMIbbctjor8QPcRWwcSMHfSSohCZHxMowWxb4trBgRPqzEDdi0d9UCrPZ0IBsRWJeg5GmU43dWwifuGIn8SdhYii68AQs/s1600-h/evaluacion+teacher+.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5351367606481152178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxzk0oCanVY8EIzjEiMkR5SFdkZlK7kFvuU4XljaTtLqwm5J7IMIbbctjor8QPcRWwcSMHfSSohCZHxMowWxb4trBgRPqzEDdi0d9UCrPZ0IBsRWJeg5GmU43dWwifuGIn8SdhYii68AQs/s200/evaluacion+teacher+.jpg" style="float: left; height: 123px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 184px;" /></a>
<b>Proposal for reinterpretation</b><br />
<i>"I climb for myself, not to prove anything to the world or show my superiority. I do it because it's fun and I love it... because no matter what happens when I climb and outdo myself, it fulfills me</i>". And if I struggle and try hard routes it's because it makes me happy to get better at what I do. I'm not held responsible before anyone.<br />
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Besides, people like me for what I am, not for what I sent today or who I won against. My self-esteem and my happiness come from inside me, not from praise or approval. Climb and be oblivious!<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"> Perception of competence or excessive self-evaluation</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">If we have doubts about our fitness or we deem it insufficient to what would be needed for linking the route; if, by the contrary, we are training so well and feel so strong that we feel obliged to succeed; or if we insist on checking at every moment if we are more or less tired than the last try, we can get stressed. </span></span><br />
<b><span style="font-style: italic;"><br /></span><img border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5351357209389126210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOksH5iBcVdcFJLH9car-rPpBS7Zpntd21ZCnQCj8h44y8bImZyNXGr1Zllxel9hAaq7fHJdGqeH1RfTYF0_5w9ZnbfkUiwQiop6KYa1Ej4bBJohUQCbd-Tuf6WRnwnoh2nsz5-SHmRyb-/s200/evaluacion+mu%C3%B1eco+lupa.jpg" style="float: left; height: 133px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 125px;" />Reinterpretation proposal</b>:<br />
Once again, my strategy is <i>to think about the present.</i> We can't do anything to improve our physical state, and the constant self-assessment will make us distracted and anxious, so I focus on what I'm climbing at this moment.
I know that in the past I have climbed hard routes on days I felt tired or undertrained; and I have failed on days I felt strong. So I say to myself "<i>well, you never know until you try. Go for it!</i>". We may surprise ourseves in a good way. Also, climbing is not about your forearms only. Don't overrate physical fitness. Sometimes it's the heat or the mind what impairs us, or getting a sequence wrong, or missing a hold... This has already happened to you, hasn't it?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUifZzX_fqmmsa20TJUHh40Ci9MUsNJpQF1PK7Cgy2BDBhlFGBXYwupSWq-Nx-b9Yul4LqvOTJxvN1FpXPzFjQzC9Ik-6zmIGrXCGaQrFoQG5QLdLX0WQsC4FwFEmDjLTOGn-rdN6PnrDY/s1600-h/Eva+Lopez+en+Nuria+8c+-Cuenca-+foto+por+jose+ya%C3%B1ez.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5351365456288747490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUifZzX_fqmmsa20TJUHh40Ci9MUsNJpQF1PK7Cgy2BDBhlFGBXYwupSWq-Nx-b9Yul4LqvOTJxvN1FpXPzFjQzC9Ik-6zmIGrXCGaQrFoQG5QLdLX0WQsC4FwFEmDjLTOGn-rdN6PnrDY/s400/Eva+Lopez+en+Nuria+8c+-Cuenca-+foto+por+jose+ya%C3%B1ez.jpg" style="display: block; height: 421px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 280px;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eva López, Nuria, 8c. Cuenca (Spain). Photo: José Yáñez</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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These are my suggestions and some personal tricks, but you can share yours, and perhaps this way we can collect a good repertory of "weapons" against those pesky nerves.<br />
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So tell us: What is your favorite phrase to minimise your anxiety? What are your tricks?<br />
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In the following, we will talk about <b>coping strategies</b>Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6599038699723174462.post-36018484803224612692013-02-07T09:56:00.001+01:002020-04-08T14:39:46.433+02:00Training Pinch Grip Strength for Climbing. Are dead hangs the right way to do it?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<a href="http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/2012/12/entrenamiento-de-la-fuerza-en-pinza-en.html" target="_blank">Versión en español </a>(Translation from the Spanish original published on December 28, 2012)</div>
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While I wrap up the <a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es/search/label/Lock-off%20Strength%20Training" target="_blank">lock-off series</a> that we started months ago, we are going to have a look at an issue that a reader raised a while ago:<br />
<blockquote>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hi Eva,<br /><br />First of all: thanks for a great blog! Very interesting to read about your research and training tips.<br />I think it would be interesting to hear your thoughts on developing pinch strength. The training of this grip is not too often addressed but in practice I find it is a very important grip type. The strength of the thumb is not developed using the "standard" finger training exercises (dead hangs, campusing etc.). What would you recommend for increasing the strength of the pinch grip?<br /><br />Best regards!<br /><br /><a href="http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2012/05/dead-hang-training-on-small-edges.html?showComment=1346667224423#c8742957783118417496" target="_blank">Ragge September 3, 2012 at 12:13 PM</a></span></blockquote>
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Hi Ragge,<br />
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Thank you! I agree with you. That's why I have been meaning to talk about this topic for some time now ;-)<br />
Firstly, you are so right. There is not a lot of information on this topic and, as you suggest, the hangboard may not be the best method for training this quality... or perhaps it's not so far fetched. Let's see:<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">How could we train correctly our pinch strength hanging off a vertically oriented pinch?</span><br />
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<b>Well, hanging directly below </b>a board with straight arms like we do for edges and pockets <b>is not the ideal situation</b>. We should hang in a way that left our<b> wrist in a natural position</b> (15º-30º extension, Irmhan, 2001), the <b>forearm in a neutral</b> position (neither supine nor prone) with our thumb pointing 'upwards' (McGorry and Lin, 2007) and <b>our arms in front of us</b>. If we add to this combination an <b>ideal shoulder flexion of 45º-135º,</b> we will be in the best position to apply the maximum force using this grip type (Kong et col., 2011)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMn9tA1HpgiDoSWhAw3ic_1LyD2LFfE_y8ufGVLyrayw-aD2OVH1TQzsek6N18tre_LSYX3WopqA258M3dQ34USIs_F25M7_6fG_Tl2gCj3rjAy2XhBLIxKmbU0ufRcnupcP_aXKtrVk/s1600/Pinza+clic+famobil.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMn9tA1HpgiDoSWhAw3ic_1LyD2LFfE_y8ufGVLyrayw-aD2OVH1TQzsek6N18tre_LSYX3WopqA258M3dQ34USIs_F25M7_6fG_Tl2gCj3rjAy2XhBLIxKmbU0ufRcnupcP_aXKtrVk/s320/Pinza+clic+famobil.JPG" width="238" /></a><br />
The <b>best body posture</b> would be like this:<br />
<a href="http://www.alkavadlo.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/MG_5015.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.alkavadlo.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/MG_5015.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a><br />
Or, at least, like this one where the hold is downward facing; our body would be upright, but our elbows would be flexed so that the thumbs could oppose the force made with the other fingers:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption">Walt Metzler. Source: <a href="http://www.strongergripblog.com/2010/08/world-class-pinch-strength.html" target="_blank">http://www.strongergripblog.com/2010/08/world-class-pinch-strength.html. </a><br />
Original source: Old issue of Strength & Health magazine (1955)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Preventing injuries</span></div>
By observing a correct position we can avoid injuries like <b>De Quervain syndrome</b>, caused by overuse of thumb muscles under excessive ulnar flexion, exactly the posture that we get when we grab a high, front-facing pinch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDqZSBCGXG1qvyV10afKStPrQGaeK60hQ9BibLvRyDliC_-nbpkvM72JIvBN7fJxlQtASj5IrAXC1yHMFrLE0ElANU4bPL8zheSbU8kTpLt8v9RSSuSId2kD8H-a2NP9qvh2JZ6ZlsPiR/s1600/tenosinovitis+quervain.gif" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDqZSBCGXG1qvyV10afKStPrQGaeK60hQ9BibLvRyDliC_-nbpkvM72JIvBN7fJxlQtASj5IrAXC1yHMFrLE0ElANU4bPL8zheSbU8kTpLt8v9RSSuSId2kD8H-a2NP9qvh2JZ6ZlsPiR/s320/tenosinovitis+quervain.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjssWwLAHaBl4TaQHFVWgSSjsQRWfJfu-4E0U_GL2nL2sL_fotMTYB22Ks9xAT0cEwNo5dQ1gR_tes9NWw8lpclqcU1yn3r6bn0H2BuzmtZlhExF8Bt7zZVkrhW_5frC7oqr5Pg87MhfaCp/s1600/Jason+Kehl+-+pinch+in+hangboard+-+sourceDPMclimbing+-+flexion+cubital.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjssWwLAHaBl4TaQHFVWgSSjsQRWfJfu-4E0U_GL2nL2sL_fotMTYB22Ks9xAT0cEwNo5dQ1gR_tes9NWw8lpclqcU1yn3r6bn0H2BuzmtZlhExF8Bt7zZVkrhW_5frC7oqr5Pg87MhfaCp/s320/Jason+Kehl+-+pinch+in+hangboard+-+sourceDPMclimbing+-+flexion+cubital.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Jason Kehl probably minimizes the risk of injury by way of his great body strength, that allows him to keep a correct elbow and shoulder posture while using an intensity high enough for his hands. Source:</span> <a href="http://jasonkehl.dpmblogs.com/">http://jasonkehl.dpmblogs.com/</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span style="font-size: large;">What about diagonal facing pinches?</span><br />
In this case the drawback is that instead of focusing on the action of the thumb against the other fingers, we would be <b>relying too much on the little finger's friction</b> and the way it is positioned against the hold. As a result, the <b>real contribution of the thumbs</b> to the exercise would <b>be inconsistent, making it difficult to assess the outcome of the training</b>. We would also overload our wrists and little fingers compared to the other fingers.</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGsPjTPgB_0MBzC1ylkcXg34SG12bnO1ndLMKsOnbEzpXtftdLXa14FhyJhez2loh-E0QsK8IRfdGKIvSZiVm47FEpV7M0j8ezCDEjRcZZce57mZ-tkKLQQk5317C7vOGkc40Kiq4R7k/s1600/pinch+in+hangboard+-+source+rockclimbingcom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGsPjTPgB_0MBzC1ylkcXg34SG12bnO1ndLMKsOnbEzpXtftdLXa14FhyJhez2loh-E0QsK8IRfdGKIvSZiVm47FEpV7M0j8ezCDEjRcZZce57mZ-tkKLQQk5317C7vOGkc40Kiq4R7k/s320/pinch+in+hangboard+-+source+rockclimbingcom.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Source: <a href="http://rockclimbing.com/">Rockclimbing.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Then, how do we train our pinch on a hangboard in a safe way?</span></div>
</div>
<div>
With this information in mind, to meet the criteria above about shoulder, forearm and wrist angles we would have to:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Be accomplished gymnasts</b> (like Kris in the picture below). This is an excellent idea to join the pinch workout with general body strength,<a href="http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/2012/09/front-levers-and-climbing/" target="_blank"> especially the CORE muscles (abdominal, obliques, transverse, lumbar and gluteal muscles) to perform a front lever</a>, but that is something that not everyone can do.</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGvKDv7kLjGuQENBLaMIJ2bTuj-ExhwwWX8g0nt0YttaoFIEJglQJaJWKdsoC3tO7ewXXnjH_XRFCgVu3RWj_h7YFx6xFNehsum0YJs6JvPXAOHto5qbLVsFyW-s2z2R74b3rM1ALVW9Q/s1600/Kris+Hampton+en+Hangboard+-+review+hangboard+of+DRCC+powercompanyclimbingcom.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGvKDv7kLjGuQENBLaMIJ2bTuj-ExhwwWX8g0nt0YttaoFIEJglQJaJWKdsoC3tO7ewXXnjH_XRFCgVu3RWj_h7YFx6xFNehsum0YJs6JvPXAOHto5qbLVsFyW-s2z2R74b3rM1ALVW9Q/s320/Kris+Hampton+en+Hangboard+-+review+hangboard+of+DRCC+powercompanyclimbingcom.jpeg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Kis Odub Hampton can definitely train on his hangboard's pinches.<br />
Source: <a href="http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/2011/03/review-v512-hangboard-from-detroit-rock.html" target="_blank">www.powercompanyclimbing.com</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li><b>Hang from down-facing pinches on the underside of the board</b> or use some specialized equipment (like Power Balls, on next picture), assuming that our hands are correctly positioned (palm <b>facing inward, opposed thumb</b>), and our body is in the previously suggested posture. We can achieve this by stepping on footholds on a wall some distance in front of us or, at a more basic level, on the floor:</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwZJU8tZcmfppAmlxlEq0ataBdmPn21847Ir5QhW_IVDvyjYr-E60qLO3OtHDuJqQ4or6F5aPwaRXGIvM3D2llmhAwEXJsv9dR-ULNhyphenhyphenlMnQexnEEwfn6uXvRVEbpgOGi1qL1BytVOsM/s1600/20121214_pinch+strength+training.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtwZJU8tZcmfppAmlxlEq0ataBdmPn21847Ir5QhW_IVDvyjYr-E60qLO3OtHDuJqQ4or6F5aPwaRXGIvM3D2llmhAwEXJsv9dR-ULNhyphenhyphenlMnQexnEEwfn6uXvRVEbpgOGi1qL1BytVOsM/s320/20121214_pinch+strength+training.jpg" width="228" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Training in <a href="http://www.theclimb.es/" target="_blank">The Climb (Alcorcón, Madrid)</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: large;">Ergonomics and Functional Anatomy of the Pinch</span></div>
<div>
The most solicited finger<b> in the crimp is the index finger</b>, the <b>middle finger</b> is the one that bears the most load in the <b>open hand and open crimp, and the same goes for the power grip</b> (like grabbing a good rounded tufa) (Quaine et col., 2003; Fuss and Niegl, 2007); in a more<b> 'pure' pinch grip, according to ergonomics studies, apart from the thumb, it is the index finger t</b>he one that has the most work at a 35% of the force exerted by the whole hand (Robert et al., 1992). In climbing, the little finger has frequently a key role, not so much because of the force it applies, but rather because of its stabilizing action.</div>
<div>
<span style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnjj7-GxlCbyQp2KKByEovLKU-h2uuLabfpWUBg-WVw8GftLTp1ryJICk9WbE20dZncReNeHbFZABLzi1ZuFXgF3GtD45rwhYi4X1knzqiS811QVe7Gx6YUsAfHLeV3bHc1DrjoVg_-iw/s1600/Movilidad+pulgar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnjj7-GxlCbyQp2KKByEovLKU-h2uuLabfpWUBg-WVw8GftLTp1ryJICk9WbE20dZncReNeHbFZABLzi1ZuFXgF3GtD45rwhYi4X1knzqiS811QVe7Gx6YUsAfHLeV3bHc1DrjoVg_-iw/s320/Movilidad+pulgar.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: Kapandji (2007)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
<div>
The pinch is an extraordinarily complex and precise movement, where up to 8<b> muscles coordinate </b>to allow for several variations of the grip:</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsKGXGcgGnnD586mzNFGYmMBYHFQJAFOpbEGLTiODaRrW2lARGiDSKIXRRyUuq0Y8LSO1oxetOBUclmI5HEgujOeRhsrL-O2o2CMgw2eHNLrIIkdzh3Qd-6Iq_G3GoQVC6eao419Gqc5h/s1600/finger+press+-+grip+types-+source+ccohs_ca_diseases_cr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsKGXGcgGnnD586mzNFGYmMBYHFQJAFOpbEGLTiODaRrW2lARGiDSKIXRRyUuq0Y8LSO1oxetOBUclmI5HEgujOeRhsrL-O2o2CMgw2eHNLrIIkdzh3Qd-6Iq_G3GoQVC6eao419Gqc5h/s1600/finger+press+-+grip+types-+source+ccohs_ca_diseases_cr.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Power Grip</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomm0jDc2HymNfSepenIEjY-3HpWHUz06hf-N9KTvqowlu8gqYx6kCr9aFwy1Fnf3sgom8XzUdzfzrduscEILYcYeAzEbLnYIEAx-ZezBhrm93t7A4tAmAHdR7N2lxxGX533IsxqvJMIcB/s1600/Three-jaw+chuck+pinch+-+grip+types.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjomm0jDc2HymNfSepenIEjY-3HpWHUz06hf-N9KTvqowlu8gqYx6kCr9aFwy1Fnf3sgom8XzUdzfzrduscEILYcYeAzEbLnYIEAx-ZezBhrm93t7A4tAmAHdR7N2lxxGX533IsxqvJMIcB/s200/Three-jaw+chuck+pinch+-+grip+types.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three-jaw chuck pinch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs8J3QRCEJ0FkDAkdzmfAkEMv_DOJqqZHN2u8_6icTHRmh0y0PPJ5qw4QEDYnlcddSTn38GVRN3gdir-P5l0FrRkyNw7Vi89f5k_Az9Ka9a4AEuJBXpMIFSfQYeyGnlTin8F1iw7blgLGt/s1600/lateral+pinch-+grip+type.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs8J3QRCEJ0FkDAkdzmfAkEMv_DOJqqZHN2u8_6icTHRmh0y0PPJ5qw4QEDYnlcddSTn38GVRN3gdir-P5l0FrRkyNw7Vi89f5k_Az9Ka9a4AEuJBXpMIFSfQYeyGnlTin8F1iw7blgLGt/s1600/lateral+pinch-+grip+type.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lateral pinch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwoyctDojvF742VTtLuqS8h3T2k5M6fZ8ppkMUAktQ6hKkf85D9T0o1HwhrbVYUYvH1IMUzU-3GWCe8bgkjGV22YJm5HDBsjD3Gmc3l5fnaWIEOu6NNuRfSdDavZUiq6WbdfPVXZaYDmc/s1600/palm+pinch-+grip+type.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwoyctDojvF742VTtLuqS8h3T2k5M6fZ8ppkMUAktQ6hKkf85D9T0o1HwhrbVYUYvH1IMUzU-3GWCe8bgkjGV22YJm5HDBsjD3Gmc3l5fnaWIEOu6NNuRfSdDavZUiq6WbdfPVXZaYDmc/s1600/palm+pinch-+grip+type.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Palm pinch</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuV8XympTNXTX2mr5EleE6lY48uL1tVtAt-7b5m16u4mBYNLHVW-AM3ORxktAN31BuGOKmVr8ViAkqkX1aMQsxg-06d5IOe_GHXT9OibKj_iQ4Nj3e1G-0f4xv2jVVKqSR3AtcCh-O20O/s1600/pulp+pinch-+grip+type.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUuV8XympTNXTX2mr5EleE6lY48uL1tVtAt-7b5m16u4mBYNLHVW-AM3ORxktAN31BuGOKmVr8ViAkqkX1aMQsxg-06d5IOe_GHXT9OibKj_iQ4Nj3e1G-0f4xv2jVVKqSR3AtcCh-O20O/s1600/pulp+pinch-+grip+type.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulp pinch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;">The 8 muscles of the thumb</span></div>
<div>
For example, <b>when pinching an arete with all the fingers</b>, the action of the lumbrical and interossei muscles is key for literally 'crushing' it and holding to it. In other kinds of pinches <a href="http://www.eatonhand.com/mus/mus131.htm" target="_blank">some muscles</a> will have a bigger involvement than others:</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
- <b>Adductor pollicis:</b> adducts the finger towards the palm (see figure below), and is important when bringing the thumb opposite to the pinky. It is the muscle that works when holding a piece of paper between the thumb and the second metacarpal bone (the index finger's one). Its weakness is the reason why it is difficult to push the thumb against a closed hand, like when we are grabbing a bar<br />
- <b>Abductor pollicis brevis</b>: for wide, shallow pinches<br />
- <b>Opponens pollicis:</b> the one we use to hold firmly an object between the thumb and the fingers, like a pencil; used on good, bar-like tufas<br />
- <b>Flexor pollicis longus:</b> it flexes the distal phalanx, and is used to crimp small and narrow pinches<br />
-<b> Flexor pollicis brevis: </b>helps to oppose the thumb against the smaller fingers and flexes the metacarpophalangeal joint. Important for narrow pinches, especially if they are deep (more than 8cm)<br />
- <b>Abductor pollicis longus:</b> used for 'raising' the thumb<br />
-<b> Extensor pollicis longus: </b>its insertion point is the base of the distal phalange of the thumb. It extends the interphalangeal joint<br />
- <b>Extensor pollicis brevis:</b> insertion point at the base of the proximal phalange. Extends the metacarpal joint. It goes into action in lateral pinches like from the picture above<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLhz0_2fyjMigAU-jnEb9y_TKJCK6XdY4ImkvArppLT7nbc9uYSvaUI1IiGI39h0_bJGwgFBpxlvE6lXY3ZN5weS7dZ8kDjccL9OV0Ro-_pbuQxxkI8FXMI50GFD56jxvgWb-fG8gqVgs/s1600/Thumb+movements+anatomy+-+Source.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLhz0_2fyjMigAU-jnEb9y_TKJCK6XdY4ImkvArppLT7nbc9uYSvaUI1IiGI39h0_bJGwgFBpxlvE6lXY3ZN5weS7dZ8kDjccL9OV0Ro-_pbuQxxkI8FXMI50GFD56jxvgWb-fG8gqVgs/s320/Thumb+movements+anatomy+-+Source.JPG" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Movements of the thumb. Source: <a href="http://www.dartmouth.edu/">www.dartmouth.edu</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
Well, this complexity means that in order to master the pinch, it is necessary to practice with a wide variety of holds in addition to changing several variables like the following ones:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Depth </b>of the hold: 1, 2 or 3 phalanges.</li>
<li><b>Orientation</b>: vertical, diagonal, etc.</li>
<li><b>Shape/positivity</b>: shallow, rounded, sloping, incut</li>
<li><b>Width/span</b>: distance from the thumb to the other fingers:</li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyhrYBKuJWWNPhVDHqNMFDrpvfGsoySCJHlKUqOzh1tC9-g2Wzb6ll-2lgG5MQE6s3hP4q02t3aJeBEvZ1Knf6h8zcOJvtQIf2EEskcgHV_Fh5BLapioQ3tX-sVW5zS2U_7sa9qGOMcnu2/s1600/07eva-lopez-white-zombie1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyhrYBKuJWWNPhVDHqNMFDrpvfGsoySCJHlKUqOzh1tC9-g2Wzb6ll-2lgG5MQE6s3hP4q02t3aJeBEvZ1Knf6h8zcOJvtQIf2EEskcgHV_Fh5BLapioQ3tX-sVW5zS2U_7sa9qGOMcnu2/s320/07eva-lopez-white-zombie1.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Eva López. White Zombie, 8c. Baltzola (Vizcaya)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGdWfTxn25BpYRqJuooZe8MHeRAjSXoVhT-1tx2ReuyZb8xag4UfPaMBm5ITuRJm1yqUfxNk8nv13OBlirNknUnENSYpb_Q-_w3G6LfxAB6MoXbsCjwlPe1YWkovdZASEKFKIjtM6Tqs4/s1600/pinch+lumbricales+plano+-+source+irrationalfitnesscom+-+tipos+pinza,+tipos+agarre,+fuerza+dedos+peke.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmGdWfTxn25BpYRqJuooZe8MHeRAjSXoVhT-1tx2ReuyZb8xag4UfPaMBm5ITuRJm1yqUfxNk8nv13OBlirNknUnENSYpb_Q-_w3G6LfxAB6MoXbsCjwlPe1YWkovdZASEKFKIjtM6Tqs4/s320/pinch+lumbricales+plano+-+source+irrationalfitnesscom+-+tipos+pinza,+tipos+agarre,+fuerza+dedos+peke.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bob on <i>Encore une fois down,</i> in Squamish. Source: <a href="http://irrationalfitness.com/2012/05/16/training-pinch-grip-strength/" target="_blank">www.irrationalfitness.com (Entry about Training Pinch grip strength)</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9o5T9EbmVHpA86nfqdnDZcQMlSSL2CZ474VjokwqGVrTjKtTQDrhgK-aLAeLpIJLgJYUubS3FaJWOMhH-jSvXHaHVyOGG6vOc-CI3lK-nvgNNAkJ4iUiRl7Na_CKnNgdG_Klvtu3BpdR/s1600/Ekhi,+El+Mito+Personal,+8A,+Albarracin+-+Foto+por+Jorge+Crespo,+Fuente+RecRock_es+-techo,+boulder,+pinza,+tipos+agarre,+bloqueo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp9o5T9EbmVHpA86nfqdnDZcQMlSSL2CZ474VjokwqGVrTjKtTQDrhgK-aLAeLpIJLgJYUubS3FaJWOMhH-jSvXHaHVyOGG6vOc-CI3lK-nvgNNAkJ4iUiRl7Na_CKnNgdG_Klvtu3BpdR/s320/Ekhi,+El+Mito+Personal,+8A,+Albarracin+-+Foto+por+Jorge+Crespo,+Fuente+RecRock_es+-techo,+boulder,+pinza,+tipos+agarre,+bloqueo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Ekhi on <i>El Mito Personal</i>, 8A, Albarracin (Teruel). Photo: Jorge Crespo Martínez. Source: <a href="http://recrock.es/">recrock.es</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVdEZ5X3YvfKpoUfvbCBiSb-DhB9EZWu3xPHQxeWk_r4txDkjfnb5O0IsCKQysf08NDBZcmRXXegp6icp2gfQsK7TT-0c-TFd9okJKCptPhnaHcww9FUKP7qwCcVz2gvEITrtxObN0dGF8/s1600/Marina+Cervello,+sector+chorreras+margalef+-+foto+jorge+crespo+-+fuente+recrock_es+-+pinzas,+escaladoras,+posicionamiento,+tipos+agarre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVdEZ5X3YvfKpoUfvbCBiSb-DhB9EZWu3xPHQxeWk_r4txDkjfnb5O0IsCKQysf08NDBZcmRXXegp6icp2gfQsK7TT-0c-TFd9okJKCptPhnaHcww9FUKP7qwCcVz2gvEITrtxObN0dGF8/s320/Marina+Cervello,+sector+chorreras+margalef+-+foto+jorge+crespo+-+fuente+recrock_es+-+pinzas,+escaladoras,+posicionamiento,+tipos+agarre.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Marina Cervello, Sector chorreras, Margalef (Tarragona). Photo: Jorge Crespo. Source: <a href="http://recrock.es/">recrock.es</a></td></tr>
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</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOFZ6HfokvImAH64_SfstFLQlKxgvLkBG45hupOZ8Vu1xDnNpuPrcDaN-Y0RcuaWFnu4ls0PJrPVDHbZjXh3ldwjLdXvhBF6yQd2DhH3MtNQVMDgvb80u4PUrpT0hrsC9VVPc378K6YKI/s320/pinch+grip+-+source+bodyweightculturecom.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="214" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: <a href="http://bodyweightculture.com/">bodyweightculture.com</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58bGcLciaf99KpqSc9z-Fx6FUXImzRQQRKM4gDgvlJpVzW9KR16ewAiFA8XDA5BTFIQeYR9dKWwi-0hlkTu0-afAox0Rh2b-e44G2kh4VCs3cmcHsBiqSIcfSKpU4U0ogtT43P0WW4Fi5/s1600/Nalle+working+in+Humildes+pa+Casa+8b++-+Oliana+-+grip+types,+tufa,+pinch+strength.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58bGcLciaf99KpqSc9z-Fx6FUXImzRQQRKM4gDgvlJpVzW9KR16ewAiFA8XDA5BTFIQeYR9dKWwi-0hlkTu0-afAox0Rh2b-e44G2kh4VCs3cmcHsBiqSIcfSKpU4U0ogtT43P0WW4Fi5/s320/Nalle+working+in+Humildes+pa+Casa+8b++-+Oliana+-+grip+types,+tufa,+pinch+strength.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Nalle Hukkataival on <i>Humildes pa Casa</i>, 8b+, Oliana (Lleida) . Source: <a href="http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/">nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz7R2VvHarok7Knseq60sRxuwcBlrGM-csfpMKNhcgZ1XG38cDgfFjLEPGEDao3qEbmgTCd8oYq_LUxMZehQlVf0aFO6IWBsh4qBmiYfS3vKE0jDGnmQq6FJS9jgeajGe7gnpoqzv0hQ/s1600/Ekaitz+Maiz+-+pinza.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwz7R2VvHarok7Knseq60sRxuwcBlrGM-csfpMKNhcgZ1XG38cDgfFjLEPGEDao3qEbmgTCd8oYq_LUxMZehQlVf0aFO6IWBsh4qBmiYfS3vKE0jDGnmQq6FJS9jgeajGe7gnpoqzv0hQ/s320/Ekaitz+Maiz+-+pinza.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ekaitz Maiz on <i>Sistematik Ihes</i>, 9a. Aizpun (Navarra). Photo: Jon Juarez. Source: <a href="http://harrihorrihar.blogspot.com.es/2012/04/ekaitz.html" target="_blank">http://harrihorrihar.blogspot.com</a></span></td></tr>
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<div>
<span style="font-size: large;">We can propose different exercises at this point:</span></div>
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<b>a) The two already described</b></div>
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<b>b) Working half crimp and open hand on the hangboard, and training the thumb by itself with a contraption like this:</b></div>
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<b></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzwr-VF7qbjUmjVulYp32o0UI5QSfH1BC_cvAQ6WJZ0Ucgx_cmz2y5b-CglQz39zzUzDiSolZUtm3MFzhkFBfm2qrqjPQK9kjeCKyTzDp0k4N7c40lr2UIqms7iWKFkN9cSbzvNCg8ZNc/s1600/material+para+entrenamiento+monodedo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzwr-VF7qbjUmjVulYp32o0UI5QSfH1BC_cvAQ6WJZ0Ucgx_cmz2y5b-CglQz39zzUzDiSolZUtm3MFzhkFBfm2qrqjPQK9kjeCKyTzDp0k4N7c40lr2UIqms7iWKFkN9cSbzvNCg8ZNc/s320/material+para+entrenamiento+monodedo.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmRzPCFB9hgcJWAdyePuChJJFGrxFdEF7SDwNjaAzjqnSlcq5pd77k6pDpP7qrBz1f9ByptGElMugwPLGQLFNHje27XzsSIFiUQNrlpDnME9279bw_whheZf5JnMgCffZUvD5neRppgEao/s1600/material+para+entrenamiento+monodedo+00.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmRzPCFB9hgcJWAdyePuChJJFGrxFdEF7SDwNjaAzjqnSlcq5pd77k6pDpP7qrBz1f9ByptGElMugwPLGQLFNHje27XzsSIFiUQNrlpDnME9279bw_whheZf5JnMgCffZUvD5neRppgEao/s200/material+para+entrenamiento+monodedo+00.JPG" width="148" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0kAg55kwCugJVPrPCzbEMnkTw-qBb23d7C1uw8B3IUFxllIl4MEZ3UlBPLCAI30EMuokaisxG0SSVgIavAK9wGZ1WN4vaTqfP4Y_orW8lzVvmGfIkfp6U1O5e9kZwVUiH3QYbCauFkfM/s1600/material+para+entrenamiento+monodedo+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy0kAg55kwCugJVPrPCzbEMnkTw-qBb23d7C1uw8B3IUFxllIl4MEZ3UlBPLCAI30EMuokaisxG0SSVgIavAK9wGZ1WN4vaTqfP4Y_orW8lzVvmGfIkfp6U1O5e9kZwVUiH3QYbCauFkfM/s200/material+para+entrenamiento+monodedo+01.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>
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<div>
But keep in mind that we will only get better at the posture we choose to hold the weight:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguXZ51aC6YxPAA-pQbPFJzZBZtKWAmGNdPCAQxpMcibha6FbW9xp9UNJxmxeNfmrcQbr60z7LGryglU8FWinkf5XrN1ilKJGXzq-1-FVUQoBo7ae4v0UJ6yZqjTVePbVfn5wzjxi4XyUbS/s1600/entrenamiento+pinza+con+monodedo+00.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguXZ51aC6YxPAA-pQbPFJzZBZtKWAmGNdPCAQxpMcibha6FbW9xp9UNJxmxeNfmrcQbr60z7LGryglU8FWinkf5XrN1ilKJGXzq-1-FVUQoBo7ae4v0UJ6yZqjTVePbVfn5wzjxi4XyUbS/s200/entrenamiento+pinza+con+monodedo+00.jpg" width="200" /> </a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqAwNoTeeevVjBRvAjBguUVF0bU3KShZ6suhIVLoSZVoQ5XG_Fcml6FulbQpi09MyullJ0qw_PWka_Eib5bL_DVDtnMJZTBpC_Wcd7d9or8pqoBlNhWkdoAqtrNxTXJ0OFWGxrRZOQMHNq/s1600/entrenamiento+pinza+con+monodedo+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqAwNoTeeevVjBRvAjBguUVF0bU3KShZ6suhIVLoSZVoQ5XG_Fcml6FulbQpi09MyullJ0qw_PWka_Eib5bL_DVDtnMJZTBpC_Wcd7d9or8pqoBlNhWkdoAqtrNxTXJ0OFWGxrRZOQMHNq/s200/entrenamiento+pinza+con+monodedo+01.jpg" width="158" /></a></div>
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c) Working the <b>pinch rather than just the thumb with a device like this</b> that we built ourselves, and that allows for adjustment of the <b>width and depth </b>of the hold:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgClK1DH0d6J6RpfuWvQFnPx6pFtJ3fClRunf4h4MId8_wU4m2Y4Vuw-R8irmPVg0cgLp70gZbIaAK5a7UEw1_oHax7tT3migla7PNLXC5tlRFU8u-YAKodzJtG5PPOKt6-oWwJSjgpLHcZ/s1600/20121013_material+para+lumbricador+pinza.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgClK1DH0d6J6RpfuWvQFnPx6pFtJ3fClRunf4h4MId8_wU4m2Y4Vuw-R8irmPVg0cgLp70gZbIaAK5a7UEw1_oHax7tT3migla7PNLXC5tlRFU8u-YAKodzJtG5PPOKt6-oWwJSjgpLHcZ/s320/20121013_material+para+lumbricador+pinza.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiA16WAnDu0Nso5jiQrDItnaV9ro1p01jBgjt4-aiGNxqUqe5kxlkGCcZ97O_46a28gQV6MU9mWLaQ2Q5nDm8kNWzIYLIKMq5KqUNzqJVOeDTBlEXsCb-xOhrKiuPV3POwSrHq2tBxbhVs/s1600/20121013_pinza+12cm+flexion+DIP+pulgar+y+DIP+dedos+y+extension+PIP+dedos+trabajo+intrinsecos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiA16WAnDu0Nso5jiQrDItnaV9ro1p01jBgjt4-aiGNxqUqe5kxlkGCcZ97O_46a28gQV6MU9mWLaQ2Q5nDm8kNWzIYLIKMq5KqUNzqJVOeDTBlEXsCb-xOhrKiuPV3POwSrHq2tBxbhVs/s200/20121013_pinza+12cm+flexion+DIP+pulgar+y+DIP+dedos+y+extension+PIP+dedos+trabajo+intrinsecos.jpg" width="130" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHBJ8-drt6x9-AaZoZqbwo7aG87gDJetc6iBhEqsNyXjYLBQ1PGuPacmh6Ya6acDEt8W2FmXiINTpmHYIrgEpGubvd8l3zz6djHWMUeXbVt6ZOPXRvXczR0s_Z9prpfeM68HCWw34OkBR/s1600/pinza+80cm+flexion+PIP+y+flexion+PIP+extension+DIP++y+trabajo+musc+intrinsecos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHBJ8-drt6x9-AaZoZqbwo7aG87gDJetc6iBhEqsNyXjYLBQ1PGuPacmh6Ya6acDEt8W2FmXiINTpmHYIrgEpGubvd8l3zz6djHWMUeXbVt6ZOPXRvXczR0s_Z9prpfeM68HCWw34OkBR/s200/pinza+80cm+flexion+PIP+y+flexion+PIP+extension+DIP++y+trabajo+musc+intrinsecos.jpg" width="126" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE5f1oP1M-9scu7KbsQZO_xZk33hDjB93hp_CT1AqHbQ89LL7bZ58BTzjZjQJS9eQjBTPQ523jWfgPg8JMybiuO0tQ6MtrfVVOTt-GJPYZr2afW_37zQeCPOMPdnMWHGK6nwjcrLL8J1c6/s1600/pinza+pulp+pinch+40cm+extension+dedos+y+pulgar++lumbricales+puro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE5f1oP1M-9scu7KbsQZO_xZk33hDjB93hp_CT1AqHbQ89LL7bZ58BTzjZjQJS9eQjBTPQ523jWfgPg8JMybiuO0tQ6MtrfVVOTt-GJPYZr2afW_37zQeCPOMPdnMWHGK6nwjcrLL8J1c6/s200/pinza+pulp+pinch+40cm+extension+dedos+y+pulgar++lumbricales+puro.jpg" width="136" /></a></div>
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Or with any of these that I have found around the net:</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9Cck5Aipr8Fsr8jH4jaiqDjH6EPwBXLSv8KlLPkHus2lJF9Krxcxd9TxHUtLkNaYoqT1YMrx_GsMzqrRaj_vclUDAg0yBMMYuzL_egwQdgbiW06Z6TjfKipoLoryDEnfLm0p58NrAmI/s1600/Pinch+block+training%252C+finger+strength%252C+Ann+Raber%252C+source+Instagram+profile%252C+20160620_cr.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1277" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN9Cck5Aipr8Fsr8jH4jaiqDjH6EPwBXLSv8KlLPkHus2lJF9Krxcxd9TxHUtLkNaYoqT1YMrx_GsMzqrRaj_vclUDAg0yBMMYuzL_egwQdgbiW06Z6TjfKipoLoryDEnfLm0p58NrAmI/s320/Pinch+block+training%252C+finger+strength%252C+Ann+Raber%252C+source+Instagram+profile%252C+20160620_cr.png" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ann Raber, source Instagram profile :<a href="https://www.instagram.com/sendann/" target="_blank">@sendann</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjEL0WgfRv0IDHQVjFUQN2w5jHGG-Xg1Gri8q7-BHXdFsXbgSX9Q7ard0IVXmwnYAUSTl2fIVBj0aA1KKgJ3G_3PsMWq50QV6ijHIBrrn_23qin22vI_EsyDvwJSMRdvatL_mzmf5bXg/s1600/Nina+Williams+y+Courtney+Woods+utilizing+pinch+block+from+Joel+Zerr-source+facebook-20150824+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdjEL0WgfRv0IDHQVjFUQN2w5jHGG-Xg1Gri8q7-BHXdFsXbgSX9Q7ard0IVXmwnYAUSTl2fIVBj0aA1KKgJ3G_3PsMWq50QV6ijHIBrrn_23qin22vI_EsyDvwJSMRdvatL_mzmf5bXg/s320/Nina+Williams+y+Courtney+Woods+utilizing+pinch+block+from+Joel+Zerr-source+facebook-20150824+.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nina Williams and Courtney Sanders using pinch blocks made by Joel Zerr. Source <a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_153561594"></span>Nina's Instagram profile<span id="goog_153561595"></span></a>. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UtY0veDOuIMiJiWEU3SXe3kazFkSwLoalR75_c5On8BjnFqZodZgpMSyq9swacTnpo_bfsfRmML2ktzJa-pYR-oR_IRxv5O0blhUG5U6OI-w4u7oMGrQhptFmxhxTl5RvuIqLyZsHKg/s1600/plate+gripping.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_UtY0veDOuIMiJiWEU3SXe3kazFkSwLoalR75_c5On8BjnFqZodZgpMSyq9swacTnpo_bfsfRmML2ktzJa-pYR-oR_IRxv5O0blhUG5U6OI-w4u7oMGrQhptFmxhxTl5RvuIqLyZsHKg/s1600/plate+gripping.jpg" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: <a href="http://drcjfitness.wordpress.com/">drcjfitness.wordpress.com</a></span><br />
<br />
<div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.home-gym-bodybuilding.com/image-files/homemade-pinch-grip-block-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" src="http://www.home-gym-bodybuilding.com/image-files/homemade-pinch-grip-block-6.jpg" height="320" width="223" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: <a href="http://www.home-gym-bodybuilding.com/">www.home-gym-bodybuilding.com</a> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW9iesMk0suDwIlHsjs0cvmtSISeMBcNtkeMxvlFVjspDGVI1OeOpl7vPO78mc6jRS5CrVYJlfxteHrmU0lgTPtCbxKon1rQAhJ5r0_tHGInLiX8HL_ApGTunDyNopiZ7FajIprHE4k8nv/s320/pinch+strength+in+spherical+grip-+source+gripfaq_com+-+tipos+agarre,+fuerza+mano,+pinza.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://www.gripfaq.com/">www.gripfaq.com</a></td></tr>
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<b>What protocol to use to train this pinch ability with these tools?</b><br />
You can employ the same as when training <a href="https://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-II-Maxhangs-SubHangs-and-Inthangs-methodology.html" target="_blank">MaxHangs</a>:<br />
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3-5 sets x bilateral or unilateral pinch block exercise x whatever pinch depth and wide you choose x 5 to 15 sec contraction (1-5 of margin of sec until failure) : 3-5 min<br />
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d) <b>Using a <a href="http://www.marvinclimbing.com/english/articles.php?id=11&page=2" target="_blank">System Board</a>-like structure</b>, like Ben Moon's "Moon Board" or <a href="http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fvimeo.com%2F44298110&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNEGMvnoQYcmbQbgCz7Z_WZRNm8QGA" target="_blank">Roberto Bagnoli's "System Wall"</a></div>
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e) And,<b> of course, including pinches in our training routes or boulder problems</b>, making sure we have access to many different shapes. This will allow us to train the gesture both in a specific way and as part of a real climbing situation:</div>
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<ul>
<li><b>Vertical or slightly slanted pinches</b> make for a sensational work of general hand strength. This is because we need to firmly oppose the thumb to 'crush' the hold and generate enough friction on all the fingers; in other grip types, the force against the hold surface is usually provided by gravity (apart from finger strength, of course).</li>
<li>If we choose <b>shallow, narrow (less than 5 cm), wide (more than 8cm) or finely textured holds</b>, we will have to <b>focus on making the right amount of pressure</b> and <b>managing the contact surface</b> of the hand.</li>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIsIMSimuGtYg6qdBmT-u3jN0mywQCWqZmy22kuHjfuLEAnFZiDX8rHbEQEkDu0VQDEiWT7sVEgtqIHad7s5JjtmS0OPBpE7_XI9TKhQs2c0Z1k-5vAgazGyYQ8nYSdwduuRB-JojOiymr/s1600/little+tufa+pinch+feature+Fuente+mountainproject_com+-+tipos+agarre,+pinza,+columna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIsIMSimuGtYg6qdBmT-u3jN0mywQCWqZmy22kuHjfuLEAnFZiDX8rHbEQEkDu0VQDEiWT7sVEgtqIHad7s5JjtmS0OPBpE7_XI9TKhQs2c0Z1k-5vAgazGyYQ8nYSdwduuRB-JojOiymr/s320/little+tufa+pinch+feature+Fuente+mountainproject_com+-+tipos+agarre,+pinza,+columna.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Source: <a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106494790" target="_blank">mountainproject.com</a></td></tr>
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<li>Lastly, <b>the fact that how much force we can generate depends on achieving the optimal posture</b>, this will greatly promote our body positioning awareness.</li>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTaO4dMCfDBZYEBq2keGPp_Cdi2fKOYcPr4HGtiWpfUMhMjevt47osggxLnQ6r5E4QwIVor_yLLw8BPZyTFBymICi7aHWb1hTc9HQpEAUYGhy0cFtmRt5Fq332GngeCO9Vwv48_qzRlOu4/s1600/Dave+Graham,+Humildes+Pacasa,+8b++-+Photo+Keith+Ladzinski+-+fuente_eveningsends_com+-+tufa,+posicionamiento,+tecnica,+pinza,+columnas,+bicicleta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTaO4dMCfDBZYEBq2keGPp_Cdi2fKOYcPr4HGtiWpfUMhMjevt47osggxLnQ6r5E4QwIVor_yLLw8BPZyTFBymICi7aHWb1hTc9HQpEAUYGhy0cFtmRt5Fq332GngeCO9Vwv48_qzRlOu4/s1600/Dave+Graham,+Humildes+Pacasa,+8b++-+Photo+Keith+Ladzinski+-+fuente_eveningsends_com+-+tufa,+posicionamiento,+tecnica,+pinza,+columnas,+bicicleta.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Dave Graham, Humildes Pacasa, 8b+ , Oliana (Lleida). Photo: Keith Ladzinski. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Source: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladzinski/498110471/" target="_blank">flickr.com</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Summary</span></div>
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With this grip type <b>we will improve not only our hand,</b> shoulder or chest strength, but also our feet placement, body position and technique in general. Climbing efficiently on pinches forces us to place our center of mass <b>in a different and more subtle fashion than what is needed for more 'stable' holds</b> like edges and pockets.</div>
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Good luck, and enjoy your pinches!</div>
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<b>REFERENCES</b></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cutts A., and Bollen SR (1993). Grip strength and endurance in rock climbers. Proceedings of the Institution of Mechanical Engineers, Part H: Journal of Engineering in Medicine, 207(2), 87-92.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">De S., Sengupta P., Maity P., Pal A., and Hara P.C. (2011). Effect of Body Posture on Hand Grip Strength in Adult Bengalee</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fuss, F. K., and Niegl, G. (2008). Quantification of the Grip Difficulty of a Climbing Hold (P142). The Engineering of Sport 7, 19-26.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fuss, F. K., and Niegl, G. (2008). Instrumented climbing holds and performance analysis in sport climbing. Sports Technology, 1(6), 301-313.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Fuss, F., Niegl, G., Yap, Y., & Tan, M. (2004). Measurement of pinch grip forces during sport climbing.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Hoozemans, MJM, and van Dieën, JH (2005). Prediction of handgrip forces using surface EMG of forearm muscles. Journal of Electromyography and Kinesiology, 15, 338:366</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Imrhan, S.N. (2001). Handgrip Characteristics and Strength. In W. Karwowski (ed.): International Encyclopedia of Ergonomics and Human Factors, Taylor and Francis, Vol. 1, pp. 252-254.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Imrhan, S. N. (1999). Hand grasping, finger pinching and squeezing. Biomechanics in ergonomics, 97.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Kapandji, AI (2007): Fisiología articular. Tomo 1. 6ª edición. Edit. Panamericana</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Kendall PF, McCreary KE, Provance PG, Rodgers MM and Romani WA (2007) Kendall's Músculos. Pruebas funcionales, postura y dolor</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">Kong Y, Song Y, and Jung M, Lee I (2011). Effects of hand position on maximum grip strength and discomfort. HFESA 47th Annual Conference 2011. Ergonomics Australia - Special Edition.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;">McGorry, RV (2007) - Power grip strength as a function of tool handle orientation and location. Ergonomics. 50 (9), 1392–1403</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Ohtsuki T (1981). Decrease in grip strength induced by simultaneous bilateral exertion with reference to finger strength. Ergonomics, 24(1), 37-48</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Quaine F, Vigouroux L, and Martin L (2003). Effect of simulated rock climbing finger postures on force sharing among the fingers. Clinical Biomechanics 18, 385–388</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Radwin RG and Oh S (1992). External fingers forces in submaximal five-finger static pinch prehension. Ergonomics, 35(3), 275-288</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Watts, P. B., Jensen, R. L., Gannon, E., Kobeinia, R., Maynard, J., and Sansom, J. (2008). Forearm EMG during rock climbing differs from EMG during handgrip dynamometry. International Journal of Exercise Science, 1(1), 2.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Watts, P. (2004). Physiology of difficult rock climbing. European journal of applied physiology, 91(4), 361-372.</span></li>
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Eva Lópezhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09605517866148791941noreply@blogger.com10