Eva López, PhD. Evidence-based Athletic Training for Climbing

After the arrival of progression®; the board aimed at lower and medium level climbers, here comes TRANSGRESSION®, developed for those with a high level of finger strength, that already put to the test by climbers like:

‎Andrea Cartas Barrera (8b+), Dafnis Fernández (9a), Dani Moreno (9a), Eric López (8B Fb, 9a), Iris Matamoros (9a), Jose Luis Palao "Primo" (8c+), Luis Alfonso Félix Pérez (9a+), Luis Muñoz (8A+ Fb), Mikel Ziarrusta (8c+/9a), Nacho Sánchez (2x8C Fb), Pablo Barbero (9a), part of the Belmez Face Brigade...

Thanks to them, to the "guinea pigs" who vounteered for the three investigations previous to my thesis, to my 10 years of work as a trainer and nearly one year of preliminary studies ergonomic tests, prototypes texture essays, etc. In collaboration with JM Climbing Surfaces and Dafnis, here is this board and the training I propose to go with it.

If you are curious about average finger strength/endurance increases after doing a row using the basic methodology (4 weeks doing dead hang with added weight on 18mm; and then 4 weeks without extra weight on smallest edge possible), this is a little summary (López-Rivera, E. and González-Badillo, J.J., (2010); Manuscript in preparation):

Improvements in finger strength (maximum weight supported for 5 seconds on 15mm): 25,8% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 8,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)
Improvements in finger endurance (maximum time on 11mm): 40,9% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 10,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)

Transgression and its companion poster

¿How do I know if this fingerboard is the right one for me?
The requisites are the following:

- Having previous experience with dead hang training,
- Having climbed in a systematic way for more than two years,
- Being older than 18,
- Meeting or exceeding the following tests of maximum hanging time, using a half crimp type of grip and keeping your arms straight, from a 10 mm edge, and then from a 20 mm one, resting for 5 minutes between them:

10mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 15 seconds.
20mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 40 seconds.

¿What are the differences with progression®?

In the first place, the proposed methodology and planning that is included with each board, is customized to the needs of high level climbers with ample training experience.
As for the hardware, there are visual differences like colors and profile, but the most notable ones can be summarized like this:

- The depths of the edges, are 18, 14, 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, and 6 mm against 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12 and 10 mm of the other one

- The finish and sharpness of the smaller edges are a bit more radical for Transgression, so that the user can choose whether to keep them that way to make them easier to hold, or to blunt them (a tiny bit!) to reduce harm to the skin.

The first version of Transgression was released in 2011 and was made in polyester.

The new Transgression version, launched in 2013, came with some improvements: lighter than the previous one, because was made in Polyurethane; a softer texture and a little bit more rounded edges. The training guide that comes with it was updated as well.

Finally I'd like to mention some coaches that I've had the pleasure of meeting in the last few months.
Thanks to their interest on trying these training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:

Carlos Cabrera (Sweden): Coach of Geir Söderin, Matilda Söderlund, Daniel Andersson, Robert Rundin (Sweden National Climbing Team) and Said Belhaj.
Dave McLeod (UK).
David Mason (Sheffield, UK): Boulderer (8B Fb) and Assistant British Team Coach.
Eric Hörst (USA).
Juan Martín Miranda , "Marvin" (Argentina): Personal Climbing Coach and Argentine Team Coach.
Kris Hampton (USA).
Mark McGowan (Glasgow, UK): Climber, currently working as Personal Climbing Coach at Barcelona, Spain.

Thank everyone, It's a great honour to share experiences with you!

Description Here

Have fun if you decide to purchase it!

Worldwide authorized distributors

AUSTRALIA, ASIA-PACIFIC REGION: rogersteppe@gmail.com

BELGIUM - VERTIC pro AG, info@vertic.ch, www.vertic.ch
CANADA (EASTERN): Climb Smart Shop, www.climbsmartshop.com

CANADA (WESTERN): The Hive Bouldering Gym, kyle@hiveclimbing.com

CZECH REPUBLIC, SLOVAKIA: Climb in Balance: info@climbinbalance.eu

ITALIA: LDR Import Export, ldr.importexport@gmail.com

GERMANY: In-Tacto Climbing Goods, info@in-tacto.de

JAPAN: Evolution, incl. ; yoshida@evolv.jp

NORWAY AND NORDIC COUNTRIES: Paradox Equipment, andregunde@gmail.com

SPAIN: Surfaces for Climbing

UK: Jurassic Climbing Academy

USA: William Snyder; Swiaz Inc. DBA Southwest Instruments transgressionusa@gmail.com

Interested in distribution?
Feel free to contact the manufacturers, Surfaces for Climbing:
+34 972 35 47 97; web@surfacesforclimbing.com