Sunday, February 12, 2012

A New Tool for Training your Fingers: The PROGRESSION Fingerboard


When you first see it probably you will wonder why nobody came up with it before. It was so self-evident...


A fingerboard with progressively smaller edges to improve maximum strength and endurance... of course!

If I always try to use a bigger dumbbell when doing biceps curl, why shouldn't I try to use ever smaller edges when doing dead hangs?

Controlling and stepping up the training load, realizing the importance of personalization, basing your motivation on effort and improvement, and the application of the scientific method are fundamental for my vision of development; they have also inspired the design of this board.

Back in 2003 I thought of a prototype that would fill the needs for my first research on finger strength training: the 'regletómetro'.

The "Regletómetro"
Thanks to this device, to Dafnis who helped me in designing and building it, and to the collaborarion of more than 100 climbers that voluntarily have served as guinea pigs for my studies up to now, I have obtained new and valuable information about finger strength and endurance training, the research topic for my doctoral thesis.

Thank you, guinea pigs!
Now, to fill an available niche in the market, and after several months of development during which numerous prototypes, tests, and data sampling were carried out, and a lot of thought was put into; thanks to the design insights of Dafnis, and to the long and meticulous production process developed by Joan Machado and JM Climbing Surfaces, looking for vital precision and strength, here comes:
Progression by Eva López
progression® has 8 edges of different depth, that are scientifically selected as ideal for climbers with a medium level of finger strength, so that they can take their first steps in intensive finger training.

How do I know if  progression®   is the ideal fingerboard for me?

It will be if you want to begin serious finger training and you meet both of the following requisites:

  • You have been climbing for more than 2 years, on a weekly basis, and without major interruptions;
  • You are older than 16 (Morrison and Schöffl, 2007);
  • You have a low or medium level of finger strength as measured by the following tests:
    • Being able to hang
      • more than 15 seconds from a 24mm-deep edge
      • less than 35 seconds from a 20mm edge
      • and less than 10 seconds from a 10mm edge.

If you find these requisites too easy for you, congratulations, and don't worry because there is another fingerboard that will meet your needs; its name is  transgression® .

How do I train with progression® ?

Guidelines for methodology, management, training load control and scheduling of your training, are included with every fingerboard so that you can tailor and manage your own training, with the ultimate goal of making you into the master of your own process of improvement.
The products associated to this seal have been scientifically developed and evaluated 
Because maximum finger strength is a key factor for physical performance in sport climbing,
because now you will have access to up to date knowledge in training science,
and because now it's up to you to reach your goals... here there is this board.

Now it's in your hands
There's a long way to go
Enjoy the journey!

Orders and Info for Buyers: JM Climbing Surfaces
Go to SPEC SHEET
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14 comments:

  1. Just wanted to say that the wooden regulated "Regletómetro" is beautiful and ingenious. Why haven't I thought about if before??? :) I'm building it as soon as possible.

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  2. Thank you very much! I'm glad you liked it. You can learn how to build it here although it's only in Spanish by now.

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  3. I just saw a post about you on 8a.nu and love the layout of the board and the science behind your training. Is it possible to get one of these boards in the U.S.? If not, is it at least possible to order the training methodology? Thank You!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, Rob

      Currently we are looking for distributors in the USA. We hope to find them soon, and then I'll let you know.

      Regarding the training methodology, by now it is only available together with the board. But don't worry, because I am going to explain you the basic methodology through the next blog entries so that to you can try it out anyway.

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    2. Fanatstic news, can not wait to get one!

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  4. Anyway you can accept paypal and ship to the US?

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    Replies
    1. Hi,

      Nowadays, we are looking for distributor in USA, because sending only one board there, it cost a lot of money.

      We hope to find them soon. And at that time, I'll let you know, as well as the way of payment

      Delete
  5. I'm going to buy one soon and i'd like to know if the training methlodology sold with it is in english or only in spanish?

    thank you

    michael

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    Replies
    1. Hi Michael,

      Poster of training methodology is currently available in Spanish, English, German, and Italian.

      I hope you enjoy it ;-)

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  6. Hi, any distribution plans for Australia?

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    Replies
    1. We would like to! But, one step at a time... We would love to have distributors for the whole world in the next future.

      Thank you for your interest
      Regards

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  7. Anyway to order one to the US yet?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Mike,

      You can write here:

      info@jmclimbing.com

      Thank you for your interest

      Cheers!

      Delete
  8. Eva,

    I have the Progression and Trangression. JM Climbing was super helpful throughout the process. I am super excited to get started!

    Great blog and the posters are great. The T-Shirt is pretty cool too.
    -Mike

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