Monday, April 23, 2012

Transgression, a hangboard for high level climbers

Versión en español

After the arrival of  progression®; the board aimed at lower and medium level climbers, here comes TRANSGRESSION®, developed for those with a high level of finger strength, that already put to the test by climbers like:

Andrea Cartas Barrera (8b+), Dafnis Fernández (9a), Dani Moreno (9a), Eric López (8B Fb, 9a), Iris Matamoros (9a), Jose Luis Palao "Primo" (8c+), Luis Alfonso Félix Pérez (9a+), Luis Muñoz (8A+ Fb), Mikel Ziarrusta (8c+/9a), Nacho Sánchez (2x8C Fb), Pablo Barbero (9a), part of the Belmez Face Brigade...

Thanks to them, to the "guinea pigs" who vounteered for the three investigations previous to my thesis, to my 10 years of work as a trainer and nearly one year of preliminary studies ergonomic tests, prototypes texture essays, etc. In collaboration with JM Climbing Surfaces and Dafnis, here is this board and the training I propose to go with it.

If you are curious about average finger strength/endurance increases after doing a row using the basic methodology  (4 weeks doing dead hang with added weight on 18mm; and then 4 weeks without extra weight on smallest edge possible), this is a  little summary  (López-Rivera, E. and González-Badillo, J.J., (2010); Manuscript in preparation):
  • Improvements in finger strength (maximum weight supported for 5 seconds on 15mm): 25,8% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 8,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)
  • Improvements in finger endurance (maximum time on 11mm): 40,9% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 10,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)
Transgression and its companion poster
¿How do I know if this fingerboard is the right one for me?
The requisites are the following:

- Having previous experience with dead hang training,
- Having climbed in a systematic way for more than two years,
- Being older than 18,
- Meeting or exceeding the following tests of maximum hanging time, using a half crimp type of grip and keeping your arms straight, from a 10 mm edge, and then from a 20 mm one,  resting for 5 minutes between them:

  • 10mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 15 seconds.
  • 20mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 40 seconds.

¿What are the differences with  progression®?

In the first place, the proposed methodology and planning that is included with each board, is customized to the needs of high level climbers with ample training experience.
As for the hardware, there are visual differences like colors and profile, but the most notable ones can be summarized like this:

- The depths of the edges, are 18, 14, 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, and 6 mm  against  24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12 and  10 mm of the other one

- The finish and sharpness of the smaller edges are a bit more radical for Transgression, so that the user can choose whether to keep them that way to make them easier to hold, or to blunt them (a tiny bit!) to reduce harm to the skin.
The first version of Transgression was released in 2011 and was made in polyester. 
The new Transgression version, launched in 2013, came with some improvements: lighter than the previous one, because was made in Polyurethane; a softer texture and a little bit more rounded edges. The training guide that comes with it was updated as well.

Finally I'd like to mention some coaches that I've had the pleasure of meeting in the last few months.
Thanks to their interest on trying these training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:

Thank everyone, It's a great honour to share experiences with you!

Description Here

Have fun if you decide to purchase it!

Worldwide authorized distributors


CANADA (EASTERN): Climb Smart Shop,

CANADA (WESTERN):  The Hive Bouldering Gym,


ITALIA: LDR Import Export,

GERMANY: In-Tacto Climbing Goods,

JAPAN: Evolution, incl. ;


SPAIN: Surfaces for Climbing

UK: Jurassic Climbing Academy

USA: William Snyder; Swiaz Inc. DBA Southwest Instruments

Interested in distribution?
Feel free to contact the manufacturers,  Surfaces for Climbing:
+34 972 35 47 97;


  1. Hi Eva,
    I´m climbing many years with my bests of 8b, 8b+ and one 8c. It is the reason that I decided to bye transgression. When I get it, I tested myself on transgression fingerboard. My best on 10mm edge is 15 seconds, but on 18mm only 25 seconds. Result is somewhere between Progression and Transgression training. Do you have any reccomendations for me, how to start with Transgression?
    thank you

    1. Hi David,

      Ok, don't worry. Your maximum time on 10mm is right on the edge, but it's enough. You can start with phase 1 of your Transgression's poster.

      I think that you will improve your finger strength a lot. You will see...

      Anyway, I take advantage of this space to tell everyone that climbing grade is not the most accurate method for choosing between Transgression and Progression. As you have seen, there is some relationship between finger strength/endurance and maximum grade redpoint, but it's not the only one factor.

      Enjoy your training!
      Best regards

    2. Thank you, I will inform you after couple of months...


  2. I understand the loading principles you have described in this post, 18mm edge for 4 weeks with weight, then smallest edge possible. Is it possible for you to give an idea of the sets and length of reps necessary to follow the regimen done in the study?

    1. Hi Kerwin,

      Sure! 3-5 sets; 3' rest between will find that information here

      Enjoy it!
      Best regards


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