A while ago I informed you that my first study had been submitted to a peer-reviewed scientific journal for review and publication. Those who follow me in facebook already know it, but to those who don't, I'm glad to announce that it was finally accepted and is published online under this title:
As many of you know, that research wasthe first I conducted on the topic of finger strength, and consisted of comparing the effects and order of two dead-hang training methods to answer the question:
¿Is it more effective for high level climbers to train first on the smallest possible edge without added weight and then on a medium-sized edge with added weight, or the other way around?
I was lucky enough to present this research at the International Rock Climbing Research Congress that took place at Canterbury University (New Zealand), November, 2011
From this study's results, and from two other that will also be in the thesis I'm currently writing, and from the years I've been able to devote to training for climbing, stem the methods and ideas for finger strength that you are already familiar with through this blog, and that are incorporated into the Progression and Transgression boards.
The main characteristic of these boards is that they have edges of different depths to allow for progression. Nevertheless, this methodology can also be used with other hangboards if they have edges with the adequate size, or you can even build yourselves a device that I have been using for years. Instructions can be found in this entry.
The "Regletómetro", an "open source training tool"
Now, I'd like to take this opportunity to review some guidelines that have been published along several entries in this same blog. Making them clear could save us injuries and stalled performance, and even allow for a proper, long-term finger strength development. I thought it would be useful to assemble them into one entry, so here they are:
In general, ¿When is it advisable to start training Dead-Hangs?
As it has already been stated, it would be better to start without added weight, and also to fulfill the following requisites:
Having more than 2 years of systematic (3-4 days/week) climbing and training experience. The reason for this is that, even though muscles only take weeks or months to adapt themselves to training, other structures like tendons, capsules ligaments and cartilages take years to reach the structural adaptations (thickness, tensile strength, etc.) needed to withstand the loads of this exercise, and that means years of progressive and deliberate practice. Also, a beginner should focus on technical-tactical aspects, and on developing a general muscle base, rather than using such specific methods.
Being able to hang for more than 15 seconds off a 24mm edge.
Being older than 16.
Being free of injuries or conditions that make inadvisable this exercise, or being fully recovered if there has been a recent injury. In some cases it will mean about 2 months of rest, in others it can take 6 months or even years.
¿When can someone start training Dead-Hangs with Added Weight?
After having completed one or more cycles of non-weighed dead hangs without pain or other problems that make this method inadvisable.
If you have been training and climbing systematically for 4 years (at least 4 days/week).
If you are 18+.
If you can hang more than 40 seconds off a 20mm edge and more than 15 seconds from a 10mm one.
General precautions regarding the finger strength Methodology described in this blog
1- The study that I refer to at the beginning of this entry and that was the base for all further research and training, was conducted on a sample of climbers with an average climbing level of 8a+/b (from 8a to 8c+) and a high level of finger strength. The combination of 4 weeks training with added weight and then training on the smallest possible edge was the most effective for this population, but keep in mind that such planning, and using added weight in general, is better suited for climbers of such level.
2- As I observed in another study that I will try to get published in the future, climbers with a low or medium level of finger strength, and/or those who haven't previously undergone intensive finger training, get significant results performing only the small edge method without the need of using added weight, because their body weight is enough to provide the load needed to induce positive adaptation.
3- It is desirable to use the easiest intensity, volume, pause and method that still provoke improvement. It is more effective, when starting some training, to slowly progress in method, intensity, etc. than increasing sharply the difficulty, because the long-term performance will be higher and there will be less risk of injury.
4- Maximum finger strength, even though it's the nº 1 physical factor in climbing, is not the only one that determines performance. There are also the technical-tactical and psychological aspects, as well as physical ones like endurance, strength-endurance, boulder, etc. Do not forget working them in all your training sessions and climbing in rock as much as possible if you want to improve as a climber.
5- The best training plan is an individualized one. So my approach is to explain here the effects that the methods and planning styles that I know have over people of different level, objectives, age, etc.; but a) all the possible methods are not listed here, and b) it would be ideal if you, after reading all the information, including other sources (blogs, books, articles), would decide for yourselves what method and planning is best for you. So I recommend you study all the available information and choose the approach that better suits your objectives, needs and qualities.
6- It is not recommended for younger people, with less than 18-20 years of age, to train campus board or weighed dead-hangs (Morrison and Schöffl, 2007). The reason is that while growth is still going on, the epiphyseal plates (the place were bone growth takes place) are not closed, and the use of high loads, that in an adult can injure ligaments, capsules or tendons, in a teenager can lead to stress fractures, a far more severe condition. And this is because the plate tissue is 2-5 times weaker than the rest. More information here.
So, going back to the opening of this blog post, i hope that the mentioned article will be interesting and useful to you, because this is really the ultimate reason for publishing. Thank you for all your support.
The day we installed our Transgression, we couldn't help trying the most challenging edge, the 6 mm one.
Dafnis held for 10 seconds with ease, but this wasn't unexpected, given his strengths and the years he has been using the methods I started to develop in 2004, and others that now are included with this hangboard.
I dindn't walk it, but the goods news is that there's still room for improvement and a variety of methods to achieve it.
Speaking of training on small edges
In a study of my own (López-Rivera, E. & González-Badillo, J. J., manuscript in preparation), we found association between the maximum added weight that could be held for 5 seconds while hanging from a 15 mm edge (finger strength test), and the smallest edge upon which the same person could hang for 10 seconds during first training session. These results are in line with Bourne et al. (2011), who found positive significant relation between the maximum force applied on a 12.8 mm edge and the one applied on 7.3 and 5.8 mm.
The above results add up to the fact that in our study(López-Rivera E. & González-Badillo J.J.; 2012), the group that trained 4 weeks using added weight and an 18 mm edge, and then other 4 weeks without added weight on smallest edge possible (a more specific exercise),showed positive significant relation between the relative increment in maximum strength and the maximum time on an 11 mm edge without added weight; and also with the smallest edge held for 10 seconds. All of this has the following implications:
Training with added weight on a medium-sized edge like the 18 mm one, and then using a more specific exercise like is the deadhang on smallest edge possible, we will obtain an improvement in our ability to hold small edges (11 mm) for longer and also to hold smaller edges than before. As we all know, these improvements sometimes can determine the success of a climb.
Practical Aspects of training and climbing on very small or shallow edges
According to Bourne et al. (2011), the force applied on tiny holds, like 4.3 and 2.8 mm, didn't show association with the maximum force applied on 12.5 mm, but did with anthropometric factors like having a bigger volume of flesh between the distal end of the bone (phalanx) and the fingertip. The authors say that this would increase deformation of the fingertip, increasing the skin to rock contact area on very shallow edges, and thus increase the limit of force production. (This paragraph has been corrected on 23 July 2012)
Deformation of my fingertip when hanging from an 8 mm edge.
Yes...I prefer to use open grip instead half crimp on small holds
From my own experience and observations:
- Temperatures below 15º C, make it easier to grab small holds, because the skin is a bit stiffer, and doesn't stretch so much, helping to maintain the angle of the distal phalanx relative to the hold.
- If the skin is not adapted to climbing in general, and to dead hangs on small edges, the deformation will be greater, and, again, it will more difficult to maintain the angle.
Marks left on my skin after a hard deadhang session
- And, conversely, high temperature, air moisture and perspiration, decrease friction and make the skin softer, leading to tearing and ultimately to slip and fall.
:-(
-If we perform a maximum repetition on an edge too small for us upon which we can't hold for the stated time with the previously determined effort level (EL), we risk spoiling the training session, because we can end with a cut fingertip or exhausted due to the "record setting" try.
As you have probably noticed if you already tried it, training in small edges causes a deep and localized fatigue. So manage cautiously the shifts from one size to the next, and honor the proposed rest periods between repetitions, sets and sessions.
You've been warned... if you want to make a try until muscular failure, do it in a separate session or as the last repetition of your dead hang training segment.
More articles about finger strength training and JM Climbing & Eva Lopez hangboards here
REFERENCES Bourne, R., Halaki, M., Vanwanseele, B., Clarke, J. (2011):Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure. Journal of Applied Biomechanics, 27, 40-46.
López-Rivera, E. & González-Badillo, J.J. (2012): The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers, Sports Technology, 5:3-4, 100-110
After the arrival of progression®; the board aimed at lower and medium level climbers, here comes TRANSGRESSION®, developed for those with a high level of finger strength, that already put to the test by climbers like:
Thanks to them, to the "guinea pigs" who vounteered for the three investigations previous to my thesis, to my 10 years of work as a trainer and nearly one year of preliminary studies ergonomic tests, prototypes texture essays, etc. In collaboration with JM Climbing Surfaces and Dafnis, here is this board and the training I propose to go with it.
If you are curious about average finger strength/endurance increases after doing a row using the basic methodology (4 weeks doing dead hang with added weight on 18mm; and then 4 weeks without extra weight on smallest edge possible), this is a little summary (López-Rivera, E. and González-Badillo, J.J., (2010); Manuscript in preparation):
Improvements in finger strength (maximum weight supported for 5 seconds on 15mm): 25,8% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 8,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)
Improvements in finger endurance (maximum time on 11mm): 40,9% (7c+ to 8b group; n=5); 10,9% (8b+ to 9a group; n=4)
Transgression and its companion poster
¿How do I know if this fingerboard is the right one for me?
The requisites are the following:
- Having previous experience with dead hang training,
- Having climbed in a systematic way for more than two years,
- Being older than 18,
- Meeting or exceeding the following tests of maximum hanging time, using a half crimp type of grip and keeping your arms straight, from a 10 mm edge, and then from a 20 mm one, resting for 5 minutes between them:
10mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 15 seconds.
20mm: maximum hanging time greater or equal than 40 seconds.
¿What are the differences with progression®?
In the first place, the proposed methodology and planning that is included with each board, is customized to the needs of high level climbers with ample training experience.
As for the hardware, there are visual differences like colors and profile, but the most notable ones can be summarized like this:
- The depths of the edges, are 18, 14, 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, and 6 mm against 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 12 and 10 mm of the other one
- The finish and sharpness of the smaller edges are a bit more radical for Transgression, so that the user can choose whether to keep them that way to make them easier to hold, or to blunt them (a tiny bit!) to reduce harm to the skin.
The first version of Transgression was released in 2011 and was made in polyester.
The new Transgression version, launched in 2013, came with some improvements: lighter than the previous one, because was made in Polyurethane; a softer texture and a little bit more rounded edges. The training guide that comes with it was updated as well.
Finally I'd like to mention some coachesthat I've had the pleasure of meeting in the last few months. Thanks to their interest on trying these training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:
Question about How to Adjust the Load when doing Dead Hangs with Added Weight December the 2nd, 2011 By Jorge:
Hi Eva, I have read some of your entries about finger training and I'm not sure of how to apply some of the criteria. I have been a climber for 3 years now, my time on a 20 mm edge is 38'' and this is what I am currently doing:
Twice a week, dead hangs on an edge upon which I can hang for 10''.Gradually, on a weekly basis, if I can hang for more than 10'' off the edge, then I use added weight so my time is 10 seconds again. This goes for 4 weeks, 3 to 5 sets each session.Then I rest for a week and start training without added weight, but this time I use progressively smaller edges to stay within the desired 10 seconds.
As I said, I'm not sure this is the right way to do it. Thank you for helping self-taught people like me, who sometimes feel a bit lost in the field of training.
Answer
I'm afraid you haven't fully understood how to use the added weight yo adjust the load. Don't worry, this is normal, this method is very different from the usual ones. The same concept of adjusting the load is not very common and hard to grasp at first, but once you get it and practice it during a few sessions, you will surely become an expert.
In your case, when using added weight you don't have to start with an edge where you can hold for 10 seconds and add weight as you gain strength; the edge depth is fixed: 20 mm (a size suitable for people who are just starting to train with added weight). Then you add weight so your maximum time is of 13'' but you hang for just 10'' (remember, this is 10''(3) from the previous entry). More experience climbers will eventually progress to 18 or even 14 mm, but they will use the same procedure to choose the extra weight.
This methodology implies a minute and constant control of the training load, such that every day -and even for every set- the added weight (or the edge size in other phases) must be adjusted.
I will end with the following example:
If some day you feel stronger and it seems like you could do 15''(3) instead of 10''(3) with the added 10 kg you used the last session, then you will have to add more kilos so your effort duration is 10''(3) again. Likewise, you would remove some kilos if that day you didn't feel as strong as the last ones.
Question about the most suitable method to Start Training Finger Strength on a Fingerboard November th 18th, 2011 By Ángel
Hi Eva, Congratulations on your blog. I read it a lot and I find it very interesting because you are always investigating and your answers are up to date, so here is my question. I have been climbing assiduously for 2 years (not stopping for more than a week), and usually climb 2 days in the gym and 1 or two on rock. My maximum boulder grade is 7a+/b, my weight 73-75 kg and I'm 182 cm tall. Now I've decided to train a bit more, and for the past two months my training is more organized. I have started with the fingerboard and I wanted to know what the best way is to start working on it. Up until now I've been performing the "contratos method" which consists of sets of pull-ups and dead hangs utilizing different grips, with varying degrees of flexion of the arms, in groups of 10-20 exercises with incomplete, or no rest period between them (similar to what they call "repeaters" in another countries:example 1, example 2...). What do you think? Thanks a lot!
Answer
Thank you, Ángel
Your profile allows you to start training with the methods for finger maximum strength that I propose, because you have 2 years of systematic and continuous practice. The methods are described in the poster for the Progression hangboard and in this previous entry.
The most effective for you is to choose a maximum strength method that according to my studies also improves finger strength-endurance on small and medium edges. This could be explained by the fact that by increasing maximum strength, body mass represents a lower load, so there are more motor units that don't need to be recruited and can be used later. Among other things, this delays the intervention of type II fibers and the buildup of lactate, thus extending the time until fatigue.
When our maximum strength goes up, our body weight is less of a burden to our fingers, and so whe can hold for longer. Is like "Hardy transforming into Laurel".
So, in my opinion you should first develop your maximum strength, and once you reached certain level, start specifically working your strength-endurance, because it's been already tested as the most effective way to do it.
On the contrary, performing methods for strength-endurance without a well-developed maximum strength base does not have as much effect over the former, and even less over the latter.
The method you are currently following, the famous "contratos" training (similar to what they call "repeaters" in other countries) has as a main effect the increase of strength-endurance of fingers and arms, etc. This is due to the long duration of each dead hang, the high number of exercise for every group or set and the incomplete pause between them.
I must add that I don't have a very positive view of this method, because this hodgepodge of exercises, types of contraction, articular angles, types of grip, rest periods... can result in some of the effects counteracting the others. Moreover, the complexity and the high number of variables that are at play at the same time make for a really problematic control of the load, and even worse, of your own training process over time.
There are, though, some good things about it; it's really engaging and enjoyable, precisely because of that variety, and may have a general effect on pulling and grabbing strength endurance, albeit lower than if the load could be adjusted for each person and exercise.
More detailed criticism:
Regarding one parameter that defines the load: the pause between exercises is arbitrary, because it depends on the amount of time that it takes you to complete them, with no appreciation of your capacity to perform each exercise. (In this method, you perform 1-minute sets, where you hang for some seconds, and then, rest for what is left of the minute)
Each athlete in their charge is unique. Athletes have different physiological characteristics, tolerances to environmental and training loads, rates of recovery from training stimuli, lifestyles and social pressures, psychological traits and training and competition goals (Cross and Ellis, 2005).
The individualization of load training, one fundamental principle of a good training plan, is really impaired by the fact that you only get to choose the level in which you can complete all the exercises, no matter if some of them are harder or easier for you.
During each session you mix traction strength with finger strength, different types of grip and types of contraction... with disregard for your level on each aspect, so that if you can't finish a pull-up you won't be able yo discern if it was due to a lack of pulling strength or endurance, or because your fingers are just too tired to grab the holds. It can be the case that one of the first exercises (types of handhold/grip types) is too easy for you and then you are not really getting much work out of it, but one of the last is too hard (because hold depth or grip type), and you end up with an undesirable muscular failure that will impair strength development).
Also, the process for incrementing the load is based on doing longer dead hangs of more pull-ups while shortening the rest periods... which is a way of altering two parameters at the same time (duration of effort and rest), which in turn changes something called "workout density". This is inadvisable for those with a lower or medium level, or at least for people who don't have experience changing only one parameter at a time.
The list could go on and on... it could be mentioned that making someone perform slowly part of an exercise like pull-ups is against our interest, because it's not specific of our sport and can lead to injuries; same goes for maintaining a fixed angle of the elbow until exhaustion no matter the experience or the physical condition of the athlete... but let's drop the subject here.
In short, my main objection is that in it's current form, it is impossible to control the load and the effects of training.
Now it's my turn to ask you: If you can't measure the effects of your training, if you don't manage it, then what's the use of it? Perhaps as an entertainment? If this is what you seek, then everything' fine.
But if your goal is to improve, and organize and optimize the time you devote to your trainig... now it's time to look for other ways of achieving it.
I will tell you some details of my experience... Some time ago I started with sport climbing, but I didn't feel committed enough and so I ended up retreating into the gym, without the need of a specific training. A year ago I discovered that I was more comfortable bouldering, and I wanted to make progress... The online-guinea-pig thing looks interesting, so I'll tell you about my training and you'll see what you make of it. Mi height is 167 cm and my weight 67 kg with 13% body fat. I own an old top30 fingerboard, on which I do the following training: Sets an rest period: I do 3 sets to exhaustion without added weight: 2 on a 20 mm edge and 1 on a 15 mm edge; the rest between sets is 3'. Effort duration: on the 20 mm edge I usually reach failure at 30-35'', and 25-30'' for the 15mm one depending on the day. I also distribute the other weekly contents like this: Monday: training with weights Tuesday: at the climbing gym, 4 boulder problems that I am able to do and 2 or 3 that I'm not Wednesday: the finger training session I described previously Thursday: gym, similar to Tuesday Friday: training with weights Weekend: go out bouldering if I can... Well, I know that's a handful, thank in advance.
ANSWER:
Well, Joaquín, thank you for your confidence in my opinion.
Let's take one aspect of your plan at a time:
Firstly it's been proven that training to "muscular failure" has a similar effect on increasing maximum strength than stopping 1 or more repetitions before total exhaustion (this margin I will expand on later is called Effort Level (EL).
Failure is something we seek when training strength-endurance, but only if we have enough experience with it.
Secondly, using those exertion lengths (15'' or more) has an effect on finger endurance, but not on maximum strength. Furthermore, and according to my research, you will improve your endurance for those edge depths but not for the smaller ones.
So, given your mark of 35'' on 20 mm, I suggest you perform twice a week for 8 weeks (resting at least 48 hours between sessions) the following periodization or combination of methods:
a) 4 weeks of 3-4-5-5 sets (i.e. 1st week 3 sets,2st week 4 sets... last week 5 sets) of 10-second repetitions with 3' rest between them; the edge depth would be 20 mm and the Effort Level (EL) 3, meaning that you would choose the amount of added weight that would permit you to hang for 13 (10+3) seconds but you hang only for 10 seconds; this is written 10''(3).
b) 4 weeks of 3-4-5-5 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that you can hold for 10''(3) (effort level of 3) and resting 3' between sets. By the way, for the second week this would be expressed like this: 4 x 10''(3) :3'. The figure after the colon denotes the resting time.
The key aspect with the training is controlling and adjusting the training load. This is completely individual and you may have to adjust the training load every day or even set if you wish to progress. I recommend to keep the same EL throughout a period, and to increase/decrease the amount of weight/edge size every day and even every set as your strength and performance changes.
Endless progression in "Convex and Concave" by M. C. Escher
With this methodology, based on the conclusions of my research, you will be able to:
-Increase your maximum time on the 20 mm edge
-Hold from smaller edges than before
-Hold longer to medium (20-15 mm) and small (11 mm or less) edges
-Decrease the delay between grabbing a hold and applying the maximum force on it (to shorten time to peak force), therefore saving on power and duration of the grip, delaying fatigue
The description of this periodization and the study it's based on are in the following (soon to be translated into English) blog entry:
If later on you want to improve your power-endurance over small edges, you could use the intermittent dead hangs method, that can be found in the training guidelines that are included with each Progression or Transgression fingerboard; or in the following video:
Question about Managing the Effort Duration when preparing a Finger Training Periodization December the 2nd, 2011 By Tato
Hi Eva, how's everything going? I have the following question: Why 10 seconds? Wouldn't it be advisable to modify the "time" parameter so you can vary the "edge size" parameter accordingly? To make myself clear: currently, when performing dead hangs, I only use small edges. I feels it helps me to avoid injuries and the smaller edges are one of my weak points. Changing the edge even in 1 mm steps doesn't look like much, but they are big leaps for me and the process requires time, adaptation and effort. I can't do 10'' repetitions on 8 mm but I'm able to do 5'' repetitions. I have noticed that, while I was getting better on a given edge, I barely improved on the smaller ones. But in few sessions I have experienced gains in strength by varying the time and size parameters and the number of sets. I wait for your opinion, and wish you good luck in everything.
ANSWER:
Hi Tato,
It's true that the time parameter can be adjusted, it is the equivalent of doing more or less repetitions in other exercises like weight lifting or pull-ups.
Remember that the first periodization that I proposed time ago, consisted of just 8 weeks doing 10-second repetitions, and that is fine to begin. But clearly we don't want to keep repeating that kind of load time and again because we wouldn't progress.
Of course, the parameters have to be changed. And after playing with the EL (explained above) we can vary the duration of the effort. Congratulations, you have worked out by yourself the appropriate planning strategy ;)
The type of periodization that you have chosen, with shorter effort duration on smaller edges (or with more added weight) is precisely the one that I propose in the training guidelines for the Transgression fingerboard. I will give more details about it in a future entry.
Anyway, if you look at the poster that comes with Progression, in the suggested training plan I first advise to lower the EL from (5) to (3), and gradually go from 15 to 12 and finally 10'' because this is the most advisable path for the potential users of Progression or those who start training in a systematic way.
Progression in our gym. And besides it the poster with the training guidelines
In the poster that accompanies Transgression, I show periodizations where the EL goes from (3) to (1), and the effort duration from 10" to 8" and then 5''. There's also mention of an advanced variant that would consist of 3-second repetitions, for short periods of 2-4 weeks maximum.
The same goes for intermittent dead hangs for developing strength-endurance, where I even give the possibility of using added weight (3-5x4-6x10"-5":3"-5"/1').
Now regarding the use of methods without added weight: they are indicated for lower and medium level climbers, and I guess for you too, because you still don't reach the 8-second mark on a 10 mm edge. With them you can certainly improve a lot, and they are what's used during the first phases of training on Progression.
My pupil Nacho Sánchez in Entropía, 8C. Castillo de Bayuela (Toledo). Photo by Raúl Santano
But once you have consolidated the basics (more than 35-40'' on 20 mm or 15-20'' on 10 mm), I suggest you use added weight and edges of 20 or 18 mm, because according to my investigations this is more effective and has less danger of injuries, allowing you to hold smaller edges for longer, and to apply the maximum force faster. A possible explanation of this being more effective than training without added weight on small edges is that with the added weight the muscular activation is greater. It would be interesting to test whether hanging from really small edges is associated to improvements in maximum strength through an increased coordination, or if there are neural developments that allow us to maintain the level of precision needed to optimize the small contact area of the fingers with the edge, apart from others that are mentioned in the study by Bourne et col. (2011).
My pupil Luis Alfonso Félix sending Black Block, 9a+ . Cuenca. Photo by Javipec
To summarize, if your 10-second training edge is 10-9 mm and you feel you have a lot of room for improvement, keep using the small edges method, because your body weight and the edge depth are still enough to produce enough muscular activation and hence gains in strength. You can try this:
-10 seconds for 4 to 8 weeks
-8 seconds in a 4-week cycle
-a last cycle of 5 seconds for 2 to 4 weeks
Once you have achieved a certain level, though, training first with added weight and then without it is more effective regarding my research. Both for developing maximum strength and strength-endurance on small edges.
More articles here
Progression and other fingerboards that we are releasing have a drawback with respect to other boards, or other climbing training gear:
To make the most of these boards, the user must play an active role and invest lots of time and effort:
-To understand and master the supplied documentation
-To be persistent and systematic about the practice of the methodology that is offered along witn the fingerboard
These boards won't work without your involvement. You are part of your own process of improvement
This no doubt will be a worthwhile task for some, when they reach their expected goals or get to manage and enjoy their gains. They will be proud of their efforts and determination, and of being responsible for their own achievments.
For others, though, this will be an inconvenience that they will have to weigh up when deciding wether to purchase or not this product. Work and daily chores are tiring enough, to go and feel like "working" in your free time... so think about it carefully.
While you make up your mind, and given that a nice way of learning is, once you master the basics, try to adapt them to your personal needs with the help of someone who can oversee the process and solve the doubts, you can read this entry. In it I have tried to compile some of the most frequent questions that are arising on the topic of Progression and training on it.
If you come up with more questions you can add it as a comment and we will do our best to answer them so you learn more about using this fingerboard.
Question about training load evolution and periodization.
september the 13th, 2011 By Carlos
Hi Eva, I have a question regarding the training program that comes with Progression: In the method for Phase 1, you say that the first week you have to perform 2 sets of dead hangs on a small edge. If, as is the case, I would rather begin doing a bit more, would there be a problem? am I doing it right? I have started doing 3 sets of dead hangs on the 22 mm edge without added weight instead of the 2 you recommend for Phase 1. I would like you to tell me whether this is correct or not. Thank you.
Answer:
Hi Carlos,
What you have decided to do with your training periodization is somethin a lot of people tells me, or even ask for my "permission" to do in the first weeks they begin training with me... in part because they are highly motivated; in part because the are convinced that they can do "a lot more" than they are told to.
This is an example of the so called "Lake Wobegon effect"; according to it, 9 out of 10 people believe they are 1 out of 10 :). That is, they overrate themselves and think they are above average.
The planning guidelines that I propose in the guide have been designed attending to something that is really important and a lot of people ignores:
-It is desirable to use the easiest possible intensity, volume, rest periods and method that are enough to yield gains.
-It is more effective to slowly increase the difficulty of methods and intensity level than to progress by leaps or very fast, because the long term progress will be greater and it will be safer when it comes to avoiding injuries.
So, even if 2 sets seem too few, it's in your interest to go slowly so that you can adapt to the exercise, the method and the sensations. Keep in mind that this first Phase has the goal of preparing you for the "proper" training that comes after.
Question about the advisability of training with Progression for beginners.
august the 29, 2011 By Agustín
Hi Eva, I wanted yo ask you about Progression. I am currently following a training plan and I wonder if the fingerboard had a place in it. I have been climbing for 8 months now, 3 of them training systematically. I can onsight 6c+ and have redpointed 7a on the second try. Some friends tell me that with my current level I don't need to use a fingerboard, but others disagree... so I need to ask you. Thank you very much.
Answer:
Hi Agustín, I don't recommend to start training with this board to those who have been climbing and/or training regularly less than 2 years. And you say yo have been for only 8 months...
The reason is that muscles take short time to adapt, in the order of weeks of months.
But other tissues like tendons, capsules, cartilages and ligaments get the needed adaptations (like increased thickness and tensile strength) only after years of systematic and progressive practice. Roughly 2 years is the minimum.
So it is the duration of systematic practice along -possibly- with genetic factors, and not the climbing grade, what enables us to believe that those adaptations have already taken place.
Half-crimp grip
Damage that the tendon can sustain due to overload or incomplete adaptation to load.
Source: www.kinescalade.com
So, for the time being focus on doing a lot of rock climbing and train judiciously, using the easiest methods while gradually increasing volume, intensity and specificity.
With time, if you still are into this and have the drive to keep evolving, then purchase a board and enjoy it.
Have luck sending those routes!
Question about mixing in the same microcycle fingerboard training and rock bouldering. October the 3rd, 2011 By Carlo:
Hi there and congratulations for your priceless work. My question: how do you combine training on Progression and going to the crag to do some bouldering? If you need to rest for 48 h after training on Progression: -When is it most effective to train so it WORKS, going out bouldering the day before or the day after the dead hangs? -If I just go bouldering and use the fingerboard (no gym), would it be correct to do dead hangs twice a week? -Would it be possible to fit 3 days of outdoor bouldering or would it be better to just climb 2 days to meet the required resting periods?
Thank you for your compliments!
Regarding your question, hmmm... it's really interesting, because it allows us to discuss an important physiological effect when preparing a training plan, and the short term effects of ONE training session. When the energy sources have been replenished and the structures involved in the session have recovered... or even better have surpassed their initial level thanks to the effects of supercompensation (graph B of the figure below).
It also gives us an opportunity to review the mid- and long-term effects of the sum of several training sessions, which are even more interesting and so we will seek them.
Why?
As you can see on graph B of the figure above, the absolute gains of a series of sessions will be greater than those of one session, because they are the sum of several chained supercompensations, and what's more important, they will last longer.
In the PROGRESSION Training Guidelines there is the recommendation of a 48-72 hour rest period between finger maximum strength sessions. This is to ensure an adequate recovery.
And, in many cases, this will lead to a small supercompensation that will improve the quality of your next session. That is, you will be able to hang from a smaller edge or to add a bit more weight using the 20 mm edge.
So back to your original questions:
1- Is it better to go out bouldering the day before training?
If you did not exceeded yourself at the crag you will be able to do a goog training, because it is fundamental to be as fresh as possible when training maximum strength.
If you had a really hard climbing day, the next day you won't be able to cross the intensity threshold that is needed to improve maximum strength.
2-Is it better to go bouldering the day after training?
That is more advisable.
To conclude, if in your microcycle or training week your as so lucky as to being able to both train and climb on rock, you can try to do it this way:
Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday: Rock Bouldering
Monday and Thursday: rest
Tuesday and Friday: fingerboard training
But keep in mind that perhaps sometime you will need to prioritize one content over the other.
If you feel like doing the most effective finger training you will have to reduce the load in one of the three climbing days, or climb for two days only.
If, by the contrary, you want to send your project, delay the board session so you can get to the crag fully rested.
Regarding this last statement, however, you must be aware of something:
You can't sow and reap the fruits at the same time.
Thank you for your trust on me.
Question about choosing a board model. October the 11th, 2011 By Kur:
Hi Eva, I'm enjoying your blog a lot. Can you give me some advice? I wanted to try Progression, but from what I've read perhaps it's not for me: I can hang for more than 10 seconds from a 10 mm edge (around 13'', open crimp), and can climb 7B boulders fairly quickly. Maybe I can train on Progression, and by using added weight it will still be a good match for me in the future, or perhaps I should go directly with Transgression. What do you think?
My answer:
Thank you, Kur!
And thank you for your question. I'm sure there are a lot of people in a similar situation.
Your 10 mm edge time comes a little short of the time I defined as minimum to choose Transgression, the higher level board, which is 15''. So with a bit of training your profile would match this board's. Another thing is if you are systematic training and climbing.
Bouldering grade is not as representative as a specific dead hang test. What is your time for 20 mm?
For your case, my proposal is the following: Do you have access to any gyms that already have the board?
Have your gym any PROGRESSION yet? Send me the logo or name and I'll put it on this photo
In that case choose one and train on it. Do the two first phases of the training guidelines (2 cycles of 4 and 8 weeks) and check your progress. If after those phases you are able to meet the 15'' mark on 10 mm and the 40'' one on 20 mm... congratulations, you can get the Transgression fingerboard.
Well... anything else?
Then wait for future blog entries where we will try to clear up things a bit further.
SOON:
-Frequently Asked Questions about Progression and Finger Strength Training (II)
-Frequently Asked Questions about Progression and Finger Strength Training (III)
-Transgression, a Fingerboard for High Level Climbers
-Dead Hang training on Small Edges: Transgression's 6 mm edge
The Best Hangboard Protocol: Power Company Podcast
Click on the photo
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